Is it possible to pour a foundation in winter: pouring technologies. Strip foundation in winter Construction of monolithic foundations in winter

It is better to carry out any construction in dry, warm weather. But private house, if it is built with your own hands, it is built in your free time. One warm season is usually not enough for this. In order not to drag out the process for many years, some of its stages are carried out in winter time.

The grillage (or foundation) can be made of blocks or slabs. In this case (as well as during construction), the peculiarity is that the individual elements are fixed with cement-sand mortar. Basically the same rules apply to it as to concrete.

Pouring the foundation in winter at minus 5

Measures necessary to install a quality foundation in winter:

  • use of modifiers;
  • heating the solution;
  • thermal insulation of the finished foundation.

The problematic component of concrete is water. Even if it is liquid during pouring, complete dehydration is impossible. Those. the solution does not set due to the evaporation of water, but freezes. This problem is solved by adding special modifiers to the mixture that slow down hardening, which allows the concrete to gain strength.

The modifying substance is selected in accordance with frost resistance indicators. The required amount is indicated in the instructions, there is a scale on the package: the norm depends on the temperature. The minimum permissible air temperature is -25 degrees.

Please note

When preparing a solution with a modifier, the amount of water is reduced by 10-15%. At high air humidity (60% or more), additives cannot be used.

You should also study the instructions for interaction of the ingredient with the metal.

To dilute the mixture in winter, heated water is used. The poured foundation needs to be warmed up, especially the first couple of days. For heating, you can use a heat gun (power is selected depending on the size of the foundation). Another option is a heating cable or reinforcing bars with a 380-volt electric current.


Concrete gains strength within a month. After this, you need to make vertical and insulate the finished base. If there is a lot of time left before the arrival of spring, the foundation is preserved: covered with a waterproofing film and thermal insulation material:

  • expanded polystyrene (foam);
  • sand;
  • expanded clay;
  • sawdust;
  • priming.

All insulation materials are hygroscopic to one degree or another; they must be covered with thick polyethylene on top.

The easiest option is to cover the base with snow. In this case, the film must be laid under the snow, otherwise during the thaw the concrete will absorb water.

Due to the long winter period in most regions of the Russian Federation in industrial and housing construction It is practiced to fill the foundation in winter. For individual developers who prefer to do all the work themselves to save budget, these technologies do not bring tangible benefits. The costs of ensuring the minimum possible strength gain of cement stone are increasing sharply.

The main disadvantages of winter concreting are traditionally the following factors:

  • at 0 – minus 2 degrees, the hydration process inside the mixture stops completely;
  • it requires the introduction of additives into concrete, heating of the formwork and the mixture itself;
  • it is almost impossible to prepare normal concrete in a building spot in frosty conditions;
  • When delivering the mixture by mixers, laying must be carried out quickly.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to decide how to maintain a positive temperature inside the formwork for 3–5 days so that hydration is completed by at least 70%, after which freezing of the structure is no longer so scary. After thawing, the processes will continue, and the concrete will be able to gain its design strength on its own.

If you freeze the structure immediately after laying the concrete, there can be no talk of any performance characteristics. The developer will receive crumbling, loose material that will have to be completely destroyed, removed from the site and disposed of.

What to do if for some reason the foundation still needs to be poured in frosty weather? The main methods of winter concreting are:

  • insulation of the structure;
  • introduction of antifreeze additives;
  • heating of the building area or formwork elements and reinforced concrete mass.

Option for a greenhouse for a slab foundation.

Attention! Regardless of the technology chosen, fillers are steamed (sand, crushed stone, water is heated), and anti-frost additives are introduced. Otherwise, the concrete will simply freeze in the mixer or dump truck upon delivery. It is strictly forbidden to heat cement - it will lose its properties.

Insulation

At the initial stage, it is necessary to plan the work and draw up some kind of PPR schedule. IN mandatory operations are performed in the specified sequence:

  • preparation of covering material - the best option is a 0.15 mm polyethylene film for stretching around the entire perimeter like a greenhouse (the so-called greenhouse, consists of wooden posts, beams, beams, and film or awning), the foundation tape and formwork are wrapped in polystyrene foam, mineral wool or straw mats;
  • warming up the underlying layer - laying the mixture on frozen soil is prohibited, since in the lower reinforced layer the concrete will freeze even before hydration begins, this is done immediately before the arrival of the mixers so that the ground does not have time to freeze again;
  • heating the reinforcement frame - in case of frost below 15 degrees, the rods are heated with electric current to +5 degrees.

A variant of a greenhouse for a strip foundation.

The thickness and amount of heat insulation is chosen depending on how many degrees it is outside. Do-it-yourself work is not recommended below minus 5 degrees, since before freezing without heating, the concrete will gain strength:

  • at -2 degrees – 63%;
  • at -5 degrees – 18%;
  • at -15 degrees – 0%.

In cold weather, work is carried out continuously (sometimes around the clock), which also affects the cost of the foundation.

Supplements

The main purpose of chemicals is to lower the freezing point of water. The rise in price of concrete is 10–16%, depending on the additive (potash, chloride salts, sodium nitrite). Other reagents can only be used according to special instructions.

The minimum possible strength gain to comply with the mixture classes B 15 - B 30 in the first three hours is 20 - 30%. The structure must be heated in the first three days (minimum) before stripping, after which the concrete can be frozen - hydration will continue after spring thawing.

Attention! When using additives, according to the standards, it is necessary to use galvanized reinforcement, because additives make concrete chemically aggressive, which can lead to accelerated corrosion of unprotected reinforcement.

Potash is potassium carbonate or potassium carbonate.

When choosing antifreeze additives, you must consider:

  • independent mixing is not allowed, since it is necessary to accurately calculate the W/C (water-cement) ratio, which is only possible with mortar units equipped with special dosing devices;
  • chloride salts require an increase in the protective layer (5 - 7 cm), which is not always possible in small sections of MZLF tapes of private construction;
  • Potash is not recommended when using galvanized reinforcement, but it is the only reagent for concreting at minus 25 degrees.

The amount of reagent depends on the weight of cement in the mixture and is regulated by GOST 24211 of 2008:

  • to accelerate the hardening of the material – 1 – 2%;
  • to reduce the freezing point of water by 7 - 10 degrees - 3 - 5%;
  • for guaranteed absence of freezing – 10 – 15%.

This is the most budget option for winter concreting compared to other technologies.

Heating

You can provide heating for the concrete placed inside the formwork with your own hands using several methods:

  • “thermos” - can be made for MZLF with a simple configuration; the mixture along with the formwork is enough to be covered with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, straw or sawdust;
  • steaming - around the formwork you can make a cage of panels, roofing felt, under which steam is supplied (temperature 50 degrees, pressure 0.5 - 0.7 atmospheres), increasing the temperature within 10 degrees every hour, then cooling at the same gradient rate;
  • electric heating - supplying voltage to electrodes, strings, reinforcement frame.

When steaming, the following concrete heat treatment modes are used:

  • curing after laying the mixture in the formwork;
  • heating to 50 – 80 degrees at a speed of 15°C/hour;
  • gradual cooling at a rate of 15°C/hour.

Electric heating can be done in several ways:

  • internal - longitudinal reinforcement bars serve as electrodes;
  • through – for narrow MZLF strips within 0.5 m, 15 mm strips or 6 mm strings are mounted along the inner edges of the formwork;
  • electrode - current passes between the electrodes, through the thickness of the concrete, heating individual areas; the method is used for heating pilasters, corners, and protrusions.

At minus 5 – 10 degrees, IR heating is more often used. A feature of infrared radiation is the transformation of energy (radial into thermal) within the materials themselves that are exposed to it. The air between the IR gun and the heater practically does not heat up, the formwork and concrete remain warm.

Induction heating is not used in private construction due to the high cost of delivery and the use of large, energy-intensive equipment in cold weather.

Possible options for filling at negative temperatures

The optimal method of winter concreting, which can be used for a relatively small cottage foundation in cold weather, is a “warmhouse”:

  • a timber frame is constructed over the building site;
  • immediately after laying the mixture and compacting it with the tips of deep vibrators, a canopy made of materials that retain elasticity in cold weather is put on;
  • There are several heat guns inside that maintain a positive temperature for 3–5 days.

Tepljak is a greenhouse for pouring the foundation in cold weather.

The main difficulty of this DIY technology lies in the need for round-the-clock duty to control the temperature in cold weather and provide a wet compress to the upper surface of the foundation. You can rent heating formworks with heating elements built into the panels, but this is unreasonably expensive for the limited budget of an individual developer.

For slab foundations, the heating cable and underfloor heating systems (USHP slab with ready-made communications) are used. If the cable is laid inside a floating slab, it becomes irremovable and remains in the concrete for its entire service life, which increases the cost by 20 - 30%.

In an insulated Swedish slab, the contours of the heated floor are intended for further use, so additional costs can not be taken into account here. However, the slab must be sanded to achieve its final strength. This is difficult to do in cold weather, especially when snow falls immediately after pouring.

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that in 70% of cases, the contours of a water heated floor are laid in the USP, into which there is nowhere to supply boiling water in winter. Electric heating is always more expensive, so it is less in demand among individual developers, even as additional heating.

Possible consequences

It is possible to carry out concreting with your own hands at subzero temperatures only using the specified technologies in compliance with the requirements of the sequence of operations and the timing of their implementation.

Attention! The statement that the processes of hydration of cement stone will continue after the concrete has thawed is fundamentally incorrect. The water necessary for this molecular process freezes out over the winter, and the mixture will not be able to reach its design strength. Before freezing, concrete must gain at least 70% strength.

Consequences of non-compliance with technology when concreting in winter.

It is to gain 70% strength in the first few days that you need to do everything necessary to maintain a positive temperature of the mixture and the formwork around it, through which the main heat losses occur. If frost strikes suddenly, a temperature of minus 10 degrees or more will lead to dire consequences:

  • the most affected will be the outer surfaces, the side edges of the base of the tape, rising above the ground;
  • crumbs and individual layers can be swept away with a broom after warm spring weather sets in;
  • further hydration in this damaged material is impossible in principle.

Again, from a different angle.

Reinforced concrete is a complex chemical composite, the properties of which depend on the water-cement ratio of the mixture laid in the formwork. With an increase in the W/C ratio and a decrease in the grinding fineness of cement, concrete is able to gain the required 70% strength much faster, subsequently increasing this characteristic, exceeding the brand strength by 20%.

In other words, when pouring in cold weather, you can achieve not a decrease, but an increase in the strength of the structure. Another thing is that this can only be entrusted to professionals with the appropriate education or to practitioners who have poured many foundations of varying complexity in the winter. In 80% of cases, an individual developer will not be able to achieve anything other than a decrease in design strength and an unjustified increase in the construction budget in the off-season, even if he wants to.

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Not so long ago, with the onset of frost, construction was also adopted to “freeze” in our latitudes. Moreover, no one undertook to start it. There could be no talk of constructing concrete foundations and reinforced analogues if the thermometer warned of a drop below +5º C during the daytime, and recorded negative temperatures at night. However, the length of the winter breaks in construction forced residents of the northern country to look for methods that would allow them to continue concrete work in the cold. This is how methods have emerged through which a durable monolithic foundation can be built at low temperatures. Having figured out how to pour a foundation during a difficult frosty period, you can safely begin building a bathhouse in winter.

The nuances of concreting in winter

It’s not for nothing that winter was considered not the best period for pouring monolithic design, and for the construction of supporting elements of bored and pile types of foundations. The reason for this is the crystallization of water, one of the main components of the concrete solution. By turning into ice, water not only interferes with the normal course of the hydration process of the concrete mixture - that is, the formation of reliable molecular bonds due to its work. Due to the formation of ice crystals, the dimensions of which increase the initial volume of water by 10%, porosity increases. This fact does not in any way contribute to obtaining the planned strength of the foundation, but it significantly reduces it.

Let's understand the mechanism of hydration

Concreting is the process of gradual transition of a mixture of cement with sand and crushed stone from the liquid phase into the solid stone state assigned to it by rank. At a temperature background of + 15º and at a humidity level favorable for setting, the following occurs:

  • first, a kind of sodium hydrosilicate shell is formed on the surface of the poured structure;
  • then the upper layers of the poured mass are involved in the reaction - the hard grains of cement gradually suck out the moisture, due to which the components of the solution “stick together”;
  • then the outer shell, losing evaporating water, begins to shrink;
  • then deeper layers react;
  • and further in the same sequence until after 28 days the concrete structure gains maximum strength.

If the foundation has to harden on a hot, dry day, the rate of hydration increases. But the water also begins to evaporate more actively, leaving in its place pores unfilled with bound concrete. At low temperatures, the reaction slows down, but pores appear due to the formation of ice crystals. To avoid this, the foundation is poured in winter according to special rules that make it possible to obtain the temperature of the solution required for normal hardening inside the poured concrete mass or individual pillars.

Hydration is accompanied by a spontaneous increase in temperature. The greater the thickness and dimensions concrete structure, the more heat the concrete releases and the slower it cools. Therefore, you should not get carried away with pouring support pillars in cold weather; it is advisable to prefer tape or monolith. If you install heat-saving formwork from insulating mats or slabs around massive structures, with minor drops in temperature you can do without additional tricks.

Classification and analysis of concreting methods

Owners, puzzled by the problem of whether it is possible to fill the foundation in winter, receive a clear affirmative answer, but with many variations. Options for solving the problem of maintaining or creating the conditions necessary for normal hydration depend on:

  • on the dimensions of the structure;
  • from chemical composition concrete mixture and the proportions of the components;
  • on the brand of binder cement and the fineness of its grinding;
  • from climatic nuances;
  • from the ability to heat water and filler.

Often the heat released during hydration is not enough to create the conditions necessary for concrete during the frosty period. Finely grinding the cement helps to slightly increase the temperature, due to which it reacts faster and releases more heat when combined with water. Heating the water and aggregate before mixing also helps.

Attention. Only water and fillers can be heated. Cement cannot be heated, otherwise it will lose its binding properties.

Usually in our latitudes, for winter pouring, a solution with a temperature above 21º C is not used, given that when moving from a concrete mixer to a place, it will release 4.5-5º C to the atmosphere. To obtain the working temperature of concrete, it is enough to heat the water to 32º. At temperatures above the specified value hot water first mix with aggregates, then cement is added in portions.

Increasing the mixing period will help maintain the temperature of the solution. Thoroughly mixed concrete will quickly take its positions in the formwork and will cool less along the way. Therefore, builders recommend increasing the mixing time of concrete mixture components by 25% to optimize fluidity and using finely ground cement.

The simplest heating of concrete mixture

The option with separate heating of water, aggregate or the entire mixture in a concrete mixer by installing a brazier, a heat gun, or a gas burner next to it is suitable for those who are puzzled by the question of how to fill the foundation in winter with light frosts at night and positive thermometer readings during the day.

This scheme has strict rules:

  • heating water max up to 80º C;
  • initial mixing of water with aggregate and subsequent gradual introduction of cement, preferably with M from 400 to 500;
  • the use of additives that increase the hardening rate.

Advice. The use of a vibration device is not a necessary condition for private buildings, but desirable. A construction vibrator is needed to compact the concrete mixture, reduce air content, and reduce porosity.

After pouring, the concrete mass is immediately carefully covered with tarpaulins, bags, insulating mats, slag felt blankets or straw. Until strength gains, the temperature must be maintained by installing braziers or other heat-generating devices around the foundation. Then the heating is stopped and the formwork is dismantled. If the concrete cannot be fully cured, it can be allowed to freeze. All processes will be preserved, and after defrosting the reaction will proceed as usual minus the period between freezing and reverse action.

Attention. Stripping is carried out only after sufficient strength has been gained. According to SNiP III-15-76 regulations, the structure must gain 70%, regardless of the grade of concrete without additives.

Typically, “unfrozen” foundations built according to the rules do not lose more than 5% of their design value in strength properties if the water-cement mixture ratio was no more than 0.6.

Mixing concrete in frosty conditions is a difficult task. A justified decision by a reasonable owner would be to turn to the services of builders or purchase a ready-made solution with modifying additives at the factory. There the proportions will be calculated and weather conditions will be taken into account. With a ready-made solution, solving the question “how to properly fill a foundation with your own hands in winter” will no longer be an impossible task.

Use of concrete with modifying additives

The introduction of antifreeze additives into the solution is also aimed at increasing the thermal energy generated by the concrete itself. In addition to this stimulating effect, modifiers lower the “threshold” for water crystallization. Due to this, the hydration of concrete will take place according to the usual scheme at a temperature lower than for standard conditions.

In order to develop anti-frost properties, concrete is enriched mainly with calcium chloride. No more than 2% of the total mass can be added to the solution, otherwise the compressive strength of the concrete structure will significantly decrease. When the thermometer readings are stable below zero, the solution is mixed with sodium chloride (ordinary salt), potash, sodium nitrate, which ensures trouble-free concreting at -15º below zero. Despite the availability of additives, craftsmen looking for methods on how to pour a foundation for a bathhouse in cold weather should not experiment with solution formulas. It is better to purchase a ready-made composition without risk irretrievable loss all the money invested.

When using anti-frost modifiers, you can begin dismantling the formwork when:

  • a solution with M200 will gain 40% strength;
  • concrete with M to 300 will gain 30%;
  • concrete marked M400 and above will gain 20%.

Most often, the use of concrete with modifiers is combined with artificial heating methods. When combining improved concrete, for example, with electric heating, it is necessary to take into account that urea will decompose at + 40º C, and due to potash heated to 30º, the strength will be reduced by 30%.

Technically complex methods of winter concreting

Let us briefly consider methods of artificial heating of concrete in formwork, the purpose of which is to increase the rate of setting of the mixture. Depending on the possibility of using electrical appliances, the availability of insulating materials and the financial framework of construction, the owner of a country estate can choose, or rather, order from a construction organization:

  • concreting using the thermos method. Leakage of thermal energy and cooling of the body of the concrete mass are eliminated by the insulating sheathing constructed around the formwork. It is a metal casing with an electric, steam or water circuit that heats hardening concrete;
  • pouring the foundation with steam heating. To implement concreting with steam heating of the solution, you will need powerful equipment and a considerable amount of water. It is necessary to accurately calculate the number of pipes installed in the formwork and build a pipeline supplying steam, which will forever remain in the body of the structure. Due to the considerable cost and complexity of implementation, few private owners prefer steam heating.
  • installation of a greenhouse around a poured foundation not the best either cheap way, because you need to erect a large tarpaulin or plastic tent. It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature inside the tent and monitor the humidity so as not to dry out the concrete. They warm up the greenhouse with portable stoves, cannons, electrical equipment. A separate project is created for the construction of the greenhouse; it is dismantled after the formwork is removed.
  • concreting with electric heating, carried out by starting current through wires with a steel core located in fresh concrete. The formwork or reinforcement structure is “entangled” with a wire with a calculated pitch, or the heating cable is simply laid in the concrete. Compared to the above options, this is the most economical and easiest to implement method, and therefore the most common.
  • infrared and induction electric heating options, arranged by analogy from tubular heating elements, carborundum rod emitters or cables that create magnetic fields in reinforcement or steel formwork.

All of the methods listed do not belong to the category of work that should be undertaken without knowledge and qualifications. You need calculations of the amount of energy supplied, the design of additional devices, and the skills of a good electrician for electrical methods.

General rules to follow

Let's start with the fact that everyone who wants to know whether it is possible to fill the foundation in parts in winter conditions will probably be disappointed with the answer. A definite no. And until the filling is completed you will have to work around the clock. Laying should be done in segments that are small in height and length, immediately covering them with the next layer to avoid temperature loss. If for some unforeseen reason a helium shell begins to form on the surface of the poured concrete, it must be chipped off.

It is important to properly prepare the object for pouring:

  • clear the pit or trench of snow, chip and remove ice from the bottom and from the reinforcement. To prevent freezing and icing of the bottom, you need to cover the trench or foundation pit with straw immediately after digging and laying the sand cushion;
  • warm the bottom between the walls of the formwork approximately 30 cm. Do not pour concrete on top of frozen soil! Thawing under the mass of the solution, the soil will settle. It is not a fact that the settlement will be uniform. Moreover, there is no certainty that the foundation will not sag too much;
  • provide access to the formwork from all sides.

There are few rules for safe, effective concrete pouring in winter, but they must be strictly followed. It is much easier to be diligent before pouring and during the process than to waste time and money on dismantling and alterations.

How to properly fill a foundation in winter with your own hands: work rules


Anyone who wants to economically and reliably build a solid foundation for a bathhouse at a time when the cost of building materials is affordable should learn how to pour a foundation in winter. Contents of the article

The foundation can be built in winter. Yes, it’s expensive, yes, it’s difficult, but it’s possible. Therefore, do not listen to the skeptics, just read this article and build a “winter” foundation. After all, modern construction technologies allow you to realize any whim of the customer.

That is, despite the assurances of “experts,” everything can be done, and at any time: be it in winter or in summer.

Three reasons to build a foundation for the winter

If you take a closer look at the problem, the process of winter construction turns from a dangerous fad into a rather risky, but profitable solution.

After all, winter arrangement of foundations for residential buildings and industrial buildings promises us the following benefits:

  • Firstly, in winter you don’t have to worry about the strength of the walls of the trench or pit. That is, the risk of soil collapse at this time of year is minimal. The reasons for this effect are quite clear - frozen soil “works” like formwork or a supporting frame.

As a result, on some types of soil a trench or pit can only be dug in winter. For example, on loose soils or swampy areas in the summer, excavation work is not carried out at all - unstable soil simply crumbles or floats away, but in winter there are no such problems.

So, as you can see for yourself, winter construction still has its advantages. But what about the disadvantages: increased cost and decreased speed of work? You'll probably have to try them on. After all, perfect technologies simply do not exist.

Technologies for constructing winter foundations

The process of constructing a winter foundation is based on only three technologies:

  • Casting in heated formwork
  • Pouring formwork with frost-resistant mixture
  • Refusal of concrete in favor of pile construction

All three technologies are quite interesting and simply force us to consider each of them in detail. This is what we will do further in the text. So:

Construction of a heated foundation

This process is based on an artificial increase in temperature in a trench, pit or directly in the pouring body. Moreover, such an operation involves the construction of an insulating tent over the construction site, separating the heated zone from the frozen environment.

It is advisable to use heated foundation construction at temperatures below -5 degrees Celsius. Because at a higher temperature, concrete transforms into cement stone without additional effort.

Technically, pouring a foundation in winter, in this case, does not differ from the classic casting of a monolithic strip frame (or columnar support) produced in the summer. That is, at the very beginning, excavation work is carried out, then the formwork and frame are installed, and lastly, concrete is delivered to the site.

However, there is one nuance in this process: before pouring the foundation in winter, a heating element is built into its body, in the role of which the reinforcement frame of the base can be used. Moreover, during the process of knitting the frame or installing the heating element, it is necessary to arrange at least two outlets extending beyond the formwork. These taps are used as terminals connected to the power line.

In addition, upon completion of the pouring, a temporary canopy is built over the construction site, inside which a heat gun is mounted. This heating device will regulate the temperature during the initial hardening of the solution.

After two or three days, the canopy can be dismantled and the gun can be turned off. At the same time, on top construction site Be sure to add a layer of moisture-resistant heat insulator. It will maintain the temperature of the heated foundation body.

To the advantages This technology can be attributed to the ability to use this method in any weather, even in the most severe frosts. Flaw heated foundation lies in the energy intensity of the process, which increases construction costs.

Frost-resistant concrete: features of arranging “winter” foundations

When deciding whether it is possible to pour a foundation in winter, you should not discount the technology of frost-resistant mixtures prepared on the basis of classic concrete flavored with additives. Such mixtures can be used with or without heating. After all, frost-resistant concrete turns into cement stone even at a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius.

Moreover, for the construction (filling) of a strip or columnar foundation, in this case, concrete with low moisture content is used. After all, additives that accelerate the maturation of cement stone must use up literally all the water contained in the concrete for this “operation.” And without water, the foundation is not afraid of any frost.

The process itself is practically no different from classical construction: the same excavation work, the same formwork, the same pouring. Therefore, even amateurs can cope with this technology.

A feature of this process is the need to protect the fill from contact with the atmosphere and environment, from which concrete can “pick up” excess moisture. That is, a frost-resistant solution needs absolute waterproofing.

Dignity This option is the simplicity of the pouring process, disadvantage – the need for precise control of concrete moisture, on which the success of the work depends.

Construction of a pile foundation in winter

In the previous paragraphs, we have already answered the question: “Are foundations made in winter?”, and even gave examples of technologies for constructing “winter” foundations. But the mentioned technologies are characterized by high cost and labor-intensive process. Meanwhile, there is a less expensive way to build a “winter” foundation.

We are talking about pile technology, or more precisely, about the arrangement of a foundation based on screw-type steel piles. In this case, the construction of the foundation does not require either expensive (especially in winter) concrete pouring, heating of the foundation body, or labor-intensive excavation work.

Vertical piles are simply screwed into the ground without any heating or digging pits. Of course, the simplicity of the process of installing piles affects the speed of construction in the most favorable way. In addition, such a serious operation as waterproofing the foundation is canceled - it is very difficult to organize this work in winter, therefore, construction will go even faster.

Well, after screwing the last pile into the ground (to the level of -500 millimeters from the soil freezing level), a horizontal grillage made of the same steel beams is mounted on top of the vertical frame for welding.

In the end, how dignity , you get reliable foundation literally in one week. Moreover, a steel foundation has almost no physical shortcomings , and the relatively high cost of this method of arranging the foundation can be justified by the speed of work and the possibility of using such technology in the most extreme conditions.

Building a foundation in winter is a troublesome and time-consuming undertaking, but it is quite possible. For this time of year, there are special methods and technologies that allow you to build, which will be no worse than a foundation built in the warm season. Of course, the season, starting from April and ending in November, is the most favorable for building a foundation, but there are times when at this time of year it is not possible to build a foundation, and only winter remains for construction. With the right approach, you can build a strong, reliable foundation even in severe frost and on frozen ground, but you must carefully follow all the rules and take into account specific features.

Working with the foundation in winter is a rather difficult process, because people will have to work in severe frost. You can purchase special construction uniforms for them. It holds heat well and prevents the worker from freezing.

Developers often ask the question: is it possible in severe frosts? Yes, it is possible, experts will answer, but in compliance with mandatory rules and requirements.

  1. Digging a trench. When digging it, you need to monitor the water filling the bottom of the pit. You can't let her freeze. If ice does form, the frozen water should be removed.
  2. Concrete solution. Special substances are added to the concrete solution that will prevent it from hardening quickly, as a result of which the foundation built in winter will be strong. In addition, such substances contribute to better pouring of concrete into the formwork. When choosing components, you should pay attention to their properties. Some substances, on the contrary, reduce the hardening time. Large quantity modifiers are produced in liquid form, and the required amount should be determined on a certain scale. Instructions can be found on the packaging. You should be aware that the use of active substances will reduce water consumption by up to 15%, and their use at temperatures below 20°C will be inappropriate. You should also know that if the humidity is more than 60%, it is better not to pour the mixture into the formwork. It is better to carry out all work in dry weather. When using modifiers for a concrete mixture, you should not neglect the heating and thermal insulation of the structure. They are required in any case.
  3. Frost resistance. Concrete must be resistant to low temperatures, but this does not guarantee that the work will be carried out in accordance with the standards.
  4. Heat preservation. Thermal insulation is important for the foundation and formwork. It will increase the temperature of the solution and prevent the water in the solution from freezing.
  5. Heating the concrete solution. At very low temperatures, the concrete mixture should be well heated. If the thermometer temperature drops below 15°C, heating becomes especially important. The mixture is heated to 50°C. This speeds up the setting of concrete. After pouring, the entire structure should be heated and try to maintain the temperature above 0°C until the concrete is strong enough. Experts suggest purchasing special heated formwork systems or installing a heating system directly into the casting. Such a system consists of grids made of reinforcement. They are connected to electric current through a transformer. The metal becomes hot and transfers heat to the concrete. But the disadvantage of such a system is the high cost of such heating. But even at an ambient temperature of -30°C, the concrete mixture will set perfectly, be strong and strong.

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Types of foundation suitable for construction in winter

The first option is a strip foundation. This option is most popular among developers. The disadvantage of pouring the base in winter is also low labor productivity. Workers must rest more often, and some operations require significantly more time than in the summer.
Experts recommend reducing the number of “wet” operations as much as possible. For example, the use of ready-made concrete blocks. They are delivered from the factory and placed directly into the finished pit. For the blocks you will need very little concrete mortar, which means a significant reduction in “wet” work.

Another option is a foundation built from prefabricated concrete piles. If the intended building is light, such as a cottage, garage or barn, you can use pile technology. This base is especially popular among wooden houses. By following all the rules of construction, you can build a durable and reliable pile foundation in winter, which will not be inferior to other types of bases. Concrete piles are divided into two groups: bored and drilled.

Bored piles are made by pouring concrete into drilled holes, and bored piles are driven into the ground. The second group is much more convenient and faster, since the piles can be bought from the factory and do not require mortar. But the disadvantages of these piles are their high cost and very loud noise during driving the piles into the ground.

The solution to the problem may be to use . Currently, this technology is very common among developers and is in demand in the construction market. But for the winter season and on difficult ground, not all will be ideal for work. For example, for bored piles, a huge amount of work must be done preparatory work, and for drilling elements you will need to purchase special equipment.

For screw piles, nothing like this is required, which is why they are leaders in the construction market, occupying first places for the construction of foundations in the construction of low-rise buildings.

Screw piles were first used two hundred years ago in Great Britain. They then spread to Europe and America. The first piles were used in the construction of bridges on soft soil. Recently, the foundation built on screw piles, is enjoying more and more popularity among civil engineering.

Many companies have appeared in Russia that produce screw piles. They are ideal for any construction, as they are steel pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 2.5 m. Special blades are made at the end of the pipe, thanks to which the piles can be screwed into the ground. They can be screwed into any type of soil absolutely silently. No special technologies are required, since they are screwed in manually. Thanks to their design, the piles will remain stable in the soil. The foundation on screw piles is ideal for winter. In addition to frozen ground, it will sit perfectly on weak, mobile and very wet soil. A foundation made of screw piles is well suited for difficult soil: forested areas, a highly branched underground communications system and complex terrain of the site.

Another advantage is the preservation of the green area around the house. This includes trees, shrubs or lawns, which will pleasantly surprise nature lovers. For a pile screw foundation, careful site preparation can be avoided. It can be laid at any time of the year.

Since the piles are screwed in manually, you don’t have to involve outside workers and do everything yourself. This is another way to save money, since with a general budget, a strip foundation will be much more expensive than a pile-screw foundation. It is very simple to study the principle on screw piles. The process itself has now been carefully developed and studied in detail.

Before laying the foundation, you should calculate how many piles will be needed for the job. The more piles, the more costs. The number of elements is calculated, taking into account the weight of the building itself, the soil, soil freezing and groundwater level.