For most car owners, a garage is not only a shelter for a car or a mini-workshop, but also a place for free time. And it often happens that in winter you have to spend more time warming up the engine than on the trip itself, and it’s more pleasant and convenient to carry out repairs in the warmth. Therefore, sooner or later, all car enthusiasts think about heating their garage.
Buying or making your own?
The best option for heating would beDIY garage stove. Preparing all the components for this will not be difficult, but first you need to decide on the type of stove. For this, the following points are taken into account:
- ease of operation;
- reliability;
- low fuel consumption.
To choose the appropriate option, you need to familiarize yourself with all types of stove designs.
Main types of stoves
Modern heating equipment can be classified according to a number of characteristics, but the main one is the type of fuel used. Based on this, the following groups can be distinguished.
Pay attention! It is better to entrust the installation of a gas boiler to professionals so that all rules for handling such devices are followed.
Garage stove - what it should be
To choose a suitable design, you need to decide in advance on several important points, among which:
- garage area;
- planned heating periods;
- maximum budget.
Pay attention! If the garage is designed as an extension to the house, then it is advisable to install a device that will be connected to the electric or gas network. If this is a separate room, then it is better to organize an autonomous system.
The oven must have the following parameters:
- cross-section of the exhaust duct – 10 cm;
- weight – no more than 35 kg;
- dimensions – 70x50x35 cm;
- volume – no more than 12 liters.
This is a simple option that is ideal for heating a garage space. The most popular among car enthusiasts is a design called a “potbelly stove”.
Key Benefits
Among the many positive qualities, which such a stove has, it is worth noting:
- no need to build a foundation;
- ease of operation;
- Possibility of use for both heating and cooking;
- efficiency;
- autonomy from communications;
- low cost;
- small dimensions;
- high efficiency.
Pay attention! The only drawback can be considered high fuel consumption, albeit relatively inexpensive. Wood burns out quickly, and the heat generated does not accumulate. As soon as they stop heating, the stove body begins to cool.
There are no clear requirements regarding the design; anyone can make a “potbelly stove” taking into account their own needs and preferences. But in any case, the stove should consist of four main elements.
- The combustion chamber is the container in which the fuel will burn.
- Grate located next to the base. It provides traction and is used for stacking firewood.
- The ash pan is installed below the grate. It is necessary to remove soot accumulations.
- Chimney.
If desired, the “potbelly stove” can be slightly improved to reduce firewood consumption. For this purpose, the exhaust pipe is installed not next to the rear wall, but on top of the door. In this case, the furnace walls will heat up first, and only then the gases will enter the pipe. Consequently, the heat transfer time will increase.
What will be required at work?
To make a wood stove, the following materials are required:
- channel;
- iron container 200 l;
- pipes.
To determine the volume of consumables, read the drawings of the garage stove and carefully study all connecting components.
Step 1. First cut upper part containers. To do this, you can use a grinder.
Step 2. The formed edges are equal. The edges of the barrel are turned inward with a hammer. The edges of the lid are folded in the same way, but this time outward.
Step 3. A hole ø10-15 cm is cut in the center of the lid for the pipe. To do this, you can use a hammer and chisel.
Step 4. The channel is welded to the cover. In this case, the hole for the plug can either be welded or left for visual monitoring of the combustion process.
Step 5. A ø10 cm hole is made in the upper part of the body for the chimney, and the pipe is welded.
Step 6. A pipe of the appropriate diameter is inserted into the hole on the lid so that it rises slightly above the surface. This pipe will supply air into the structure.
The potbelly stove is ready.
Features of operation
After assembling the oven, testing must be carried out to ensure proper operation. To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of actions.
Step 1. First, the combustion chamber is filled one-third with firewood.
Step 2. The air supply pipe is installed and capped. As the fuel burns, the lid is lowered little by little.
Step 3. Firewood is inserted, lightly moistened with gasoline, and a lighted match is thrown.
Pay attention! If everything is done correctly, then this firewood will be enough for about seven hours of work. The heat transfer time of a stove filled with wood can reach sixty hours.
Video - DIY “potbelly stove”
The layout of the unit using waste oil is in many ways reminiscent of the “potbelly stove” described above, but still has its own characteristics.
Key Benefits
The strengths of the design include:
What will be required at work?
To design a furnace for mining, you need to take care of:
- exhaust pipe;
- a pair of metal containers with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm;
- nozzle under the upper container;
- connecting pipe having many holes.
The sequence of actions should be as follows.
Step 1. One of the containers with a volume of 10-15 liters will serve as the lower part of the structure - this is where the waste will be supplied. A hole is made in the upper part of this container.
Step 2. The cover is welded. This must be done in such a way that it can be used to regulate the air supply during combustion of the waste - for this, the lid must be raised/lowered.
Step 3. The upper container will serve as both a combustion chamber and a heating device. The thickness of the walls of the container, as already mentioned, must be at least 4 mm, because the structure will heat up to 900ᵒC.
Step 4. The containers are connected to each other by a perforated pipe ø36 cm.
Pay attention! If a solid cast product is used, then 48 holes ø1 cm must be made in it - 6 rows of 8 pieces each.
Step 5. A pipe is welded to the upper container.
Step 6. A galvanized exhaust pipe is connected to the nozzle. To ensure good draft, the chimney height must be at least 4 m.
If everything is done correctly, the result will be a stove with the following characteristics:
To fully heat the entire room, you need to adhere to certain requirements.
- The stove must be installed as far as possible from flammable materials.
- The structure needs to be cleaned once every two weeks.
- If the diameter of the exhaust pipe is larger than the exhaust pipe, the amount of soot will decrease.
- If instead of working off it is used pure material, then cleaning can be done less frequently - about once a month.
Test run of the stove
After assembling the homemade structure, you must perform the following steps.
Step 1. A piece of paper is placed in the lower container, and the waste is poured on top of it.
Step 2: The fuel ignites (after about ten minutes).
Step 3. When further work the waste must be poured proportionally - 4 liters at a time.
Pay attention! Diesel fuel can be used instead of waste.
For a more detailed look at the design, watch the thematic video material.
Video - Waste oil furnace
To cold period years to perform some work in the garage or at the dacha, you need to organize the simplest heating. Knowing how much electricity costs today, most garage craftsmen prefer to use factory and homemade heaters, operating on wood or oil processing. The purpose of our article is to provide drawings and describe in detail how to properly make a potbelly stove with your own hands for use in a garage or a small country house.
Selecting the stove design
Since there are enough drawings of ordinary potbelly stoves on the Internet, we will offer a choice of 4 original designs, one of which will certainly suit your conditions:
- Two-pass wood and coal stove, welded from sheet metal.
- Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
- Long-burning pyrolysis stove from a cylinder or pipe installed horizontally.
- Dropper for processing automobile and other oils.
Unit with two smoke circuits
Note. A heating stove can also be built from ceramic bricks, which is clearly described in this topic. Such a heat source will fit well into the interior of a dacha, but is inconvenient for a garage due to the size of the brick structure, long warm-up time and lack of mobility.
Wood heater with air chamber at the top
- If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), then you will need to quickly heat the room, and this will be provided by a vertical wood-burning stove with an air heat exchanger (option No. 2), shown in the photo. Thanks to the fan driving air through the upper chamber, it acts like a heat gun.
- The same second option will work for boxes large sizes(standard garage dimensions are 6 x 3 m). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit connected to the heating registers.
- For constant heating of a standard garage, option No. 1 is suitable - an efficient two-pass wood-burning stove, or No. 3 - a long-burning unit. The choice depends on the material you have: the first is made from a propane cylinder, the second is made from sheet iron 4 mm thick.
- For those who plan to burn waste oils for heating, it is recommended to weld a drip-type stove from a round pipe (option No. 4). If desired and skillful, you can modernize it - convert it into a boiler by making a water jacket.
Two-chamber pyrolysis oven
Reference. Of the popular garage homemade products, two more designs are worth mentioning: the famous stove - the Bubafonya top-burning potbelly stove and a small heater made from wheel rims. The production of the first is described in detail, the second is shown in the video:
Assembling an effective potbelly stove
It is well known that ordinary iron stoves are characterized by low efficiency (about 45%), since a significant part of the heat goes into the chimney along with the flue gases. Our design implements modern technical solution, used in solid fuel boilers– installation of two partitions on the path of combustion products. By bending around them, the gases transfer thermal energy to the walls, making the efficiency higher (55-60%), and the potbelly stove more economical. The principle of operation of the unit is reflected in the drawing - diagram:
For manufacturing you will need low-carbon steel sheet 4 mm thick, a piece of pipe Ø100 mm and rolled metal for the legs and grate. Now about how to make an economical potbelly stove:
- Cut metal blanks according to the drawing and make openings for the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
- Weld a grate from corners or fittings.
- Make doors with locks from the cut out parts.
- Assemble the unit using tacks, and then weld the seams completely. Install the chimney pipe and legs.
Advice. The lower partition, which is strongly heated by the flame, is better made of thicker iron - 5 or 6 mm.
For better heat transfer, craftsmen practice welding additional external ribs to the body, as is done in the photo.
How to weld a vertical stove from a cylinder
This potbelly stove differs from similar units by the presence of an air chamber located in the upper part and completely isolated from the firebox by a steel partition. Heat exchange fins are installed inside it, through which the heated air is blown by a fan. To supply cold flow and release hot flow, pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm are built into the lid, as shown in the drawing.
Note. The organization of an air heating chamber in the upper zone of the firebox allows you to remove the heat of combustion products passing past it into the chimney. Since in a vertical stove the flame engulfs the entire portion of firewood, the air flow in a separate compartment is intensely heated, causing the temperature in the garage to quickly rise.
The first operation is the correct disassembly of a 50-liter propane cylinder. To push out the leftovers liquefied gas, you need to turn off the valve and fill the tank to the top with water. After using a grinder, you need to cut off the cover (the cutting line is the factory seam) and proceed in this order:
- In the side wall of the cylinder, make rectangular openings for the ash and loading doors and frame them with a 3 mm thick steel strip, as shown in the drawing. Cut a Ø100 mm hole for the chimney pipe.
- Make removable grate bars and install them inside the housing on welded corners.
- Make doors for the ash and fuel chambers, attach handles and hinges to them, and then install them in the framed openings.
- Cut a circle Ø30 cm from metal 4 mm thick - this will be the bottom of the chamber. Weld ribs from rolled metal waste to one of its surfaces, then hermetically join it to the firebox by welding.
- Make 2 holes in the cut off lid and weld pipes for connecting air ducts. When ready, install the cover in its original place (but now above the heat exchanger) and carefully weld the joint.
A vertical potbelly stove for the garage can burn wood various quality and humidity, including sawdust, as well as supply heated air to any point in the room, which is important for greenhouses. In addition, it can provide heat to radiators and registers if they are connected to the pipes in the cover of the upper chamber and the system is filled with coolant.
Attention! To avoid boiling water and bursting pipes, you need to create constant forced circulation from the pump and install an expansion tank open type. Use antifreeze as a coolant, because the garage is not heated 24 hours a day.
Manufacturing a horizontal heater
If you lay a standard propane cylinder horizontally and install a door at the end, you will get a fairly spacious firebox that will accommodate meter-long logs. For better heat transfer and afterburning of the resulting pyrolysis gases, you need to make a secondary chamber with partitions, as shown in the drawing.
The afterburning of combustible gases in this potbelly stove is combined with the extraction of heat from combustion products that flow around hemispherical partitions (cut out from the cylinder body). Well, an indispensable attribute of intense heat exchange - external ribs made of steel strips - are required. Practice shows that such a stove heats a garage of up to 50 m² in medium combustion mode, as described in the next video:
The heating unit is simple to manufacture: doors are installed in the front part, and a hole is cut in the back part, into which a secondary chamber from a pipe or a second cylinder is welded. In order not to take away the useful volume of the firebox, the ash pan is made hinged. If necessary, a hob is installed on top of the horizontal part.
Making a potbelly stove during mining
Diesel fuel and used engine oil are very high-calorie fuels. If you get it inexpensively, then there is no point in messing with wood and coal; it’s easier to make a reliable stove - a dripper. Its principle of operation is to burn waste dripping into a hot bowl. And along the way liquid fuel has time to warm up, as it passes through an oil line built inside the afterburner pipe. The design of a drip-type potbelly stove is shown in detail in the drawing.
For efficient oil combustion, air is forced into the stove using a fan, and waste flows naturally from a tank suspended from the wall next to the heater. Another option is the forced supply of fuel by creating pressure in fuel tank(for example, a hand pump).
The stove body can be either a pipe Ø219 mm or a propane cylinder with a diameter of 30 cm. Making an oil stove with your own hands is not a difficult task, the main thing is to correctly make the holes and slots in the afterburner and lay the fuel line to the bowl installed on the bottom. Complete Guide assembly instructions are presented in our other article. You can get a closer look at the operation of the heater from the video:
Conclusion
You must understand that the designs of wood and oil stoves for the garage shown above can be changed and modified by you during operation. That's the beauty of homemade stoves - they are improved according to your wishes. Example: garage craftsmen often make an external water circuit based on a samovar heat exchanger built into vertical section chimney pipe. This makes it possible to use water heating without interfering with the design or altering the furnace itself.
Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal, majoring in “Equipment” electronics industry"in 2011.
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Most car enthusiasts have a garage, which often serves not only as a haven for their favorite car, but is also used as a workshop or a place for men’s conversations. It often happens that in cold weather, warming up the engine takes longer than the trip itself, and as a result, the relevance of the planned trip is reduced to zero. Yes, and discuss with friends latest trends In the field of motor transport, it is much more comfortable in a warm room. Agree that it is much better to carry out car repairs or other activities in a warm place. Therefore, be sure to take care of heating the garage space.
The right solution to a “cold” situation would be a DIY garage oven. Preparing components and assembling them yourself will not be difficult if you have even a little skill in working with different materials and tools.
When choosing suitable type furnaces for a garage, the main thing is:
What types of ovens are there?
Modern garage heating units available for sale on the market have certain characteristics that allow the equipment to be classified. The main factor is the type of heating material.
Based on this principle, the following types of heating equipment are distinguished:
Requirements for the design of a stove for a garage
To decide on the type of stove, answer yourself a few of the following questions:
- How much money are you willing to spend on a heating device?
- What is the area of the proposed garage space for heating?
- How long do you plan to heat the garage?
Important! If the garage is an extension to a residential premises, then in this case we recommend installing a unit connected to a common gas or electrical network. If this is an autonomous room that does not have residential buildings with communications nearby, make a separate system. 
To ensure that the oven does not cause inconvenience during operation, the following characteristics will be suitable parameters for the unit being created:
How to assemble a wood stove structure with your own hands?
An economical, self-assembled wood-burning stove is considered the easiest to maintain and is ideal for heating self-contained garage buildings. Often in the household of a car enthusiast there is a heating structure called a potbelly stove. 
Benefits of a wood stove
This stove has a lot of advantages, including:
Features of the design of the stove-stove
The type of stove design “potbelly stove” does not have clear regulations. 
Each master can build this design, taking into account his own preferences, but in any case, such a stove has the main structural elements:
Important! If you modernize the design of the potbelly stove, you will be able to significantly save firewood consumption. This effect can be achieved if the pipe is welded to the stove body above the door, and not, as is customary, at the back near the wall. Thanks to this installation of the pipe, the walls of the structure will heat up first, and only then the firewood will enter the pipe. Due to this, the heat transfer time will increase, since a brick, concrete-clay or insulated metal pipeline cools much more slowly than a steel body. 
Materials for constructing a wood stove
To assemble a wood stove yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials:
Installation technology
How to operate a wood stove?
After assembling the stove design, initially test it for proper functioning. Follow these steps:
Video
Watch the video, which clearly shows an example of creation and operation wood stove with your own hands.
Stove in progress
Compared to other similar designs, an oil-fired garage stove stands out for its efficiency, ease of operation and inexpensive combustible material. The design of the mining stove is similar to the design of a potbelly stove. 
Application benefits
Among the characteristic advantages are the following:
Materials for construction
You can construct a mining furnace yourself, which will not require a lot of effort and will not take much time. To build a homemade garage stove, you will need:
Installation technology for a garage stove using oil
To construct a “working off” stove with your own hands, follow these steps:
As a result of correctly performed work, you will receive a unit with the following parameters:
Rules for operating the stove during “working out”
To ensure that the result of the stove’s operation is justified and that it fully heats the garage space, carefully read the following operating recommendations:
How does the stove work?
To set up a homemade furnace for a working garage, do the following:
Video
To more clearly imagine the principle of the design of such a furnace and operation, watch the video below.
The main criterion in relation to the construction of a brick stove is compliance with compact dimensions, and in all other respects the system of such a stove is similar to the previous options. 
To properly build a brick stove, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:
Conclusion
Whatever type of stove design you choose for your garage, in any case, it will give the expected result. With the help of any simple unit proposed above, you can always maintain a warm climate inside the garage. And in comfortable conditions, it’s more pleasant to carry out repair work and have conversations with friends.
A private garage is a specific room and is usually very cold in winter. Such a microclimate is completely useless for either a person or a car. At the same time, the use of standard electric heaters often turns out to be too expensive and ineffective.
All that remains is to make a stove for the garage with your own hands, choosing one of the suitable options. We offer four options for consideration stove heating, each of which has its own characteristics in creation and operation.
Visual diagrams and video instructions will help you decide on the design of the furnace, assemble and connect the unit yourself.
A major garage with insulation is not available to every car owner. Most often, the vehicle owner has a metal structure at his disposal, devoid of any insulation. Any thermal energy leaves such a structure almost instantly.
When solving the problem of heating a garage space, you should not estimate its heat requirement based on similar experience with residential building. And it’s not just the lack of thermal insulation.
There is the so-called square-cube law, which states that when the dimensions of a geometric body decrease, the ratio of the surface area of this body to its volume increases.
For normal storage of a car in a garage, the temperature inside the box should not fall below +5º and rise above +18º during the presence of the owners and repair work. The requirements are regulated by SP 113.13330.2012
This affects the size of the object’s heat loss, so to heat one cubic meter A small room, such as a garage, requires more heat than heating a large house.
If for a two-story building it may be enough heating device with a power of 10 kW, then for a much smaller garage you will need a unit with a productivity of about 2-2.5 kW of thermal energy.
To maintain a very modest operating temperature of 16°C, a 1.8 kW stove is sufficient. If you only need to support optimal temperature for storing a car in a parking lot - 8°C - a 1.2 kW unit is suitable.
It turns out that fuel consumption for heating a unit volume of garage space can be twice as high as that for a residential building.
To thoroughly warm up the entire garage, its walls and floor, you will need even more thermal energy, i.e. an even more powerful heater. But even with insulation, heat will leave the room too quickly. Therefore, it is recommended to heat not the entire garage, but only the so-called workspace.
Using insulation: pros and cons
Economy-class garages are almost never insulated on the outside for a very simple reason - it is too expensive for a room that is not constantly used. Yes, this is not always possible, for example, in garage cooperatives, buildings are placed very close to each other, the gap does not allow installation of insulation.
To insulate a garage, you can use materials such as fiberboard, which extinguish when caught on fire. The use of plastic in such a room is unacceptable
But also internal thermal insulation garage space can be problematic. When installing insulating material directly on metal walls, a so-called dew point occurs at the point of their contact, i.e. place where condensation accumulates. Almost always, when in contact with moisture, insulation becomes unusable quite quickly.
And for the structure itself, such a situation can be disastrous. Insulation can be installed in a metal garage, but it is better to install suitable material at some distance from the wall, approximately 20-50 mm.
You should retreat 50-70 mm from the floor. It is best to use washers as a profile to avoid creating closed contours under the coating.
With this installation option, condensation will also appear, but thanks to air circulation under the insulation layer, the moisture will gradually evaporate without causing any noticeable harm to the structure.
However, for a garage that is constantly heated, this option is not suitable, since the indoor humidity will be excessively high most of the time. This will put both the health of people and the condition of the vehicle at risk.
When insulating a metal structure, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between it and the insulating material for regular drainage of condensate
As a material for such “ventilated” insulation, it is recommended to use slabs, for example, fiberboard, chipboard, that is, wood materials that self-extinguish upon fire. Recommended thickness is about 5 mm.
Flat ondulin or its analogues are perfect. These materials have the ability to reflect infrared radiation, which provides effective heating.
But plastic, even with attenuation properties, is strictly not recommended to be placed in the garage. When ignited, such materials emit toxic fumes, which can cause poisoning to people who escaped the fire. It is also prohibited to use slabs containing asbestos as insulation.
When insulating cold brick garage It is recommended to first plaster the walls with vermiculite to protect them from moisture. The walls of a metal garage should be painted in two layers, having previously primed the base.
The walls of the insulated garage must be treated water-repellent composition to protect the building from the damaging effects of condensation
Overview of possible options
For the garage, the following options for homemade stoves are most often used:
- brick wood stove;
- potbelly stove;
- long burning stove;
- furnace in progress.
Each of these DIY garage oven options has certain advantages and disadvantages. Some units can be combined to expand your garage heating options and make this process more convenient and profitable.
In the construction of a small stove in the garage, you can use virtually waste tools and materials, these are:
Image gallery
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Video presentation of the device in an autonomous garage heating system based on the stove:
The options for homemade stoves are quite varied, and the designs of such devices are not particularly complex. You will need skills in working with metal, a welding machine and quite affordable materials. A properly manufactured stove operates efficiently and lasts a long time.
Looking for effective way heating the garage? Or do you have experience making and using a stove? Please leave comments on the article and ask questions on the topic.
Often, a full-fledged heating system is not installed in the garage. This is due to the relatively rare use of the premises and its small area. But for long-term work in the cold season, it is recommended to make a garage oven from metal, which is quite possible with your own hands. Design drawings and specifications may vary depending on heating requirements.
Homemade stove for the garage: parameters and operating conditions
It is important to initially determine the location of the structure. It should not take up much space, and during operation it should not interfere with free movement around the garage or the performance of certain operations. Most often, a corner location of the stove is chosen.
The manufacture and installation of the furnace is carried out according to the following conditions:
- Mandatory installation of a chimney. Its height must be at least 3 meters.
- Fuel selection. The best option is to use firewood, coal or diesel fuel. They do it much less often electric ovens or running on bottled gas.
- Preparing the base for installing the boiler, installing heat-resistant materials on the walls.
Before starting this work, you need to choose the optimal stove design for the garage. The choice depends on the volume of the heated area, the presence of a hob and the overall budget. As an example, you can consider the drawings of the most suitable homemade products.
Scheme of a simple “potbelly stove”
This best option to save space. Structurally, the furnace consists of a cylindrical or cubic body, divided into a combustion chamber and an ash pan. It can be made from barrels. The thickness of the steel must be at least 1.5 mm. The socket for the chimney pipe is located at the rear of the structure to connect the vertical pipe.
- Can be used as a body gas cylinder. It is first cleared of paint, holes are made for the doors, and a grate is installed.
- At self-production The metal housing uses 1.5 mm thick steel, the connection is made by welding.
- The intensity of fuel combustion is regulated by changing the position of the ash pan door. This way the traction is controlled.
- Additionally, you can install a cutter - a shelf at 2/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. This contributes to economical consumption of burned fuel.
The advantage of this design is the ease of manufacture and the possibility of installing a hob. The disadvantage is high fuel consumption.
Long burning mini-boiler
For long-lasting garage heating, it is recommended to consider long-burning. The essence of its work is to use wood gases as fuel. They arise as a result of smoldering firewood. Unlike the option described above, a long-burning metal garage stove has a large chamber for loading fuel, a pressure system consisting of a telescopic pipe and a flat base. This block is located at the top of the structure.
After loading the fuel, it is ignited from below. Restricting the flow of oxygen provokes the process of smoldering. The resulting gas enters the afterburner chamber, where it is enriched with oxygen and ignites.
Features of the design:
- you can use a barrel or gas cylinder as a body;
- to enrich the gas with oxygen, install a low-power fan;
- the pipe for connecting the chimney is located horizontally;
- low temperature in the chimney pipe can cause condensation, so it is recommended to use sandwich structures.
The average operating time on one load of fuel can be 8-12 hours. This depends on the volume of the furnace and the speed of air supply to the afterburning chamber.
Waste oil garage oven
The principle is to use fuel vapor. To make it, you can also take a small gas cylinder. At the bottom there is a fuel container. The vapors rise through a pipe with holes, and a fire occurs there.
It is not recommended to use this model for a garage. This is due to the high probability of gas contamination in the room, since combustion products partially enter the garage before entering the chimney. There may also be problems with fuel storage.
When choosing a stove design for a garage, you should take into account the complexity of its maintenance and frequency of use. But the determining factors are the cost of the design and the complexity of its manufacture.