Compact lighting technology optimized for performance is steadily replacing massive lush chandeliers. Integration lighting device in the ceiling niche makes the interior more stylish, but at the same time requires the performer to have certain electrical engineering skills. In order to properly integrate a lamp into a suspended structure, you must initially calculate the installation algorithm, think through the configuration of the location of lighting sources, etc. But first, you should figure out which lamps can, in principle, be installed in this way.
What types of recessed lamps are there?
The fashion for lighting technology integrated into the ceiling has been set by ergonomic miniature LED devices. There is a whole segment of LED point devices called spots. A recessed fluorescent lamp is also common, but it has a drawback, which is expressed by frequent flickering, which strains the eye. In addition, fluorescent lamps contain toxic substances, so they are undesirable for use in residential buildings. But commercial platforms of the Armstrong type, due to the optimal combination of power and efficiency, are often supplemented with just such lamps.
Integrated spotlights for the home are mostly represented by LED sources. They differ in the mounting method, the number of cartridges and optical performance indicators. Brightness and contrast are perhaps the main performance properties that characterize built-in luminaires. White LED devices, however, can disappoint with the unnaturalness of the radiation. According to many experts, they do not strain the eyes as much as conventional incandescent lamps. But all LEDs, without exception, have a higher operating life and energy efficiency.
Installation steps
The process of installing the lamp in this case has a significant feature, which will consist in working with a ceiling niche based on a suspended structure. Therefore, at the first stage it will be necessary to prepare the panels and frame in which the filling of the lamp will be located.
At the next stage, the installation points of the lamps are marked. Models of this type are rarely installed in singular, so you will need to correctly think through and calculate all lighting zones.
Next, the socket is prepared into which the recessed lamp, lamp with socket and fixing equipment with wires will be placed. By the way, the lamp is fixed in a socket of a certain standard size, therefore the installation location must be configured to fit a specific format.
After this, the lamp and socket are mounted. This operation can be performed in different ways depending on the type of device. Now it’s worth taking a closer look at each of these installation stages.
Preparation for installation work
At the time of actual installation, the master prepares the ceiling for installation, turns off the electricity and cleans the work surfaces. The most important step will be working with the ceiling surface, which is most often represented by plasterboard slabs. On this basis, the installation points of devices are marked.
To integrate the lamp, you will also need to make holes. The most popular format of such devices is a diameter of 68 mm. That is, to install a lamp of this type into a plasterboard ceiling, you need to make a niche in the slab using a hammer drill or electric drill. But it is important to take into account that the panel in different areas is closely coupled with metal elements load-bearing structure, forming a frame. It is advisable to mark these lines at the stage of installing the ceiling and bypass them when marking lighting points. Then you can turn off the electricity supply through the switches in the electrical panel and proceed to the next stage installation work.
Wiring connection
Typically, a kit with the necessary wiring for connecting to the electrical network is included with the lamp. The installation contractor is required to connect the wires and the terminal block. But before this, zero, phase and grounding should be determined. It is important to consider that built-in LED ceiling lights are installed in a distribution box with phase leads to the switch. That is, both from the lamp and from the supply line there must be a break circuit, the connection of which will ensure activation of the device function, that is, the light will be turned on.
Fastening the lamp body
Spot lighting devices are fixed using spring fasteners. This is also a complete set of accessories, with which you can easily install the housing in the hole in the plasterboard panel. To perform fixation, it is enough to bend the spring spacer fasteners, place the device in the prepared open niche and release the clamping lugs.
Also, built-in LED lights in the ceiling are also mounted using screws and brackets, but this usually applies to industrial systems that require more rigid holding due to the large mass of the body. When opened, the spring clamps do not require intervention in the structure of the ceiling frame panels, but also stably support the load placed on them.
Installing the socket and lamp
The final stage of installing a spotlight. First of all, it is necessary to combine the cartridge already connected to the wires and the fixed housing in the ceiling hole. Then you need to prepare a ring that will secure the lamp itself. The latter is integrated into the body, after which the ring is installed in a special groove. By the way, before installing the lamp into the finished hole, it would be a good idea to make sure that the socket is selected correctly. Identical and even standard housings of spotlights can be combined with sockets of different sizes. However, some of them require changing the design of the nest prepared in the ceiling. This usually applies to non-standard sockets that accept several lamps at the same time.
How to install Armstrong built-in lamps?
Such models have already been noted above - these are commercial or industrial lighting devices, which are also integrated into ceiling niches. Standard size This lamp is 59x59 cm, but there are other formats. Most often, this is a rectangular lampshade, which, when installed, replaces one of the cells of the Armstrong panel ceiling - in fact, hence the name of the device itself.
The physical installation is quite simple and requires no additional fasteners. The lampshade literally sits on top in a free cell, like in a groove. Its edges hold the body, and gravity provides protection against shifting. As for the connection, Armstrong recessed luminaires are usually connected to the network infrastructure via the same three wires, but there are also paired configurations. In this case, the lampshade will be divided into two sectors with different connection lines. This means that the user can only turn on one side of the lamp.
Conclusion
The concept of recessed luminaires has existed for a long time as one of the options for the physical installation of a device. A new wave of popularity of such devices arose along with the spread of suspended ceilings and against the background of the popularization of LED compact lamps. Therefore, in order to integrate a lamp into a ceiling niche, it is necessary to implement a frame corresponding to the format. It can be mounted using plasterboard panels or using Armstrong kits, but the main thing is that such structures make it possible to neatly and reliably hide the electrical components from view. In this way, the room is given aesthetic appeal, and the surfaces of the light fixture body are protected from dust and other contaminants.
During the renovation of the hallway, the question arose about the choice of ceiling lamps. I didn’t have to choose the type of ceiling, since I had experience working with suspended ceilings. A suspended ceiling made of PVC film was chosen. I had to think about which lamp to install on the ceiling. I wanted to have modern ones beautiful lamps, and at the same time I didn’t want to part with homemade chandelier and sconces hanging in the hallway.
The choice has been made. The chandelier and sconces were left hanging on the ceiling in the hallway, but I decided to buy one for the hallway spotlights, since there was a single-lamp hanging on the wall. Before installing the suspended ceiling, you should stretch the wires. To do this, you need to make a drawing of the electrical circuit, which includes the number of lamps, the type of light bulbs, and their power.
Today, 4 types of lamps are widely used:
- Incandescent;
- LED;
- Halogen;
- Compact (energy saving).
Each type has both positive and negative sides. In addition, when choosing lamps, you should take into account their parameters, such as the distance between the fixed and suspended ceiling. Using the table below you can find out the characteristics of the lamps and select the one needed for your ceiling.
| Table for selecting the type of light bulbs for recessed ceiling luminaires | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Technical Parameters | Lamp type | |||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Minimum distance between main and suspended ceilings*, cm | 10-12 | 5-6 | 10-12 | 5-6 |
| Supply voltage, V | 220 | 12, 220 | 220 | 12, 220 |
| Luminous flux*, Lm/W | 10-15 | 15-20 | 50-70 | 80-120 |
| Maximum power*, W | 40 | 40 | 40 | 7 |
| Color temperature, °K | 2700 | 3000 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100, 6400 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100 |
| Service life*, hour | 1000 | 4000 | 8000 | 70000 |
| Price | Very low | Low | Average | High |
Specifications may differ from the data in the table. It depends on the type of lamp, design, type of ceiling. For example, there are ceilings that are afraid of heating more than 60 degrees. This limits the choice of lamp.
Halogen lamps are afraid of voltage surges, so they often burn out. They are designed for both 12 V and 220 V. Lamps operating at 12 V require a step-down transformer and power supply. Therefore, when installing such lamps, do not forget about the space in the wall or ceiling for its installation.
Calculation of power and number of lamps
When choosing the power of the lamp, you should take into account the size of the room and the color of the furniture. You should select a lamp based on your taste qualities. Using the table you can find out what power of lamps you will need. Calculations were made based on luminous flux values and lamp type.
| Table for calculating the power and number of lamps depending on the type of room | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Type of room | Power required to illuminate 1m2 of room area depending on the type of lamp |
|||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Children's | 40 | 30 | 10 | 5 |
| Kitchen | 30 | 25 | 7 | 4 |
| Living room, bathroom, toilet | 25 | 20 | 6 | 3 |
| Bedroom, hallway, corridor | 20 | 15 | 5 | 2 |
| Utility rooms | 10 | 7 | 2 | 1 |
It was planned to install spotlights in the corridor. Here are the calculations that were made.
The corridor looks like the letter T. The area of the plot is 4.5 m2, 2.8 m2. The total area is 7.3 m2. The required power of the lamps should be 15.6 W (7.3?2). The ceiling height in the room is 2.75 m. It was planned to paint the walls in a creme brulee color. Since the corridor has a complex shape, it is necessary to install 4 lamps, the lamps of which will have a power of 5 W with a reserve. Power supply 220 V, pin socket GU5.3. This type of plinth is popular due to its small dimensions, which allows installation at a low ceiling height.
The walls of the corridor were decorated with paintings, which were planned to remain after the renovation. Based on this, I chose white lamps with a color temperature of 4000 K. If you want to achieve warm light, lamps with a color temperature of 2700 K are suitable for you. Note that room lighting does not always have to consist of ceiling lights. It is better to reduce the power of the lamps and place a couple of wall lamps on the wall.
If there is local lighting, then the ceiling can be illuminated LED strip. Everything is limited by your imagination.
Selecting a wire for wiring spotlights
To power 4 lamps, any double-insulated wire will do. It is better to choose a copper double connecting wire that has many strands. For example, PVA 2*0.75. The cross-section will not play a big role, since the current will not exceed 0.1 A. If 12 V halogen lamps are used, then the cross-section of the wires must be calculated. One lamp with a power of 60 W consumes a current of 5 A.
Selection and installation of a recessed ceiling spotlight
You can find many lamps on store shelves. But they all have the same design and differ only in appearance. Some models have the function of changing the direction of the light flow.
Since I need to illuminate the corridor, the simplest lamps with a base socket were chosen.
Each lamp has a body that looks like a figured ring, and platforms with fastenings for springs with ears. The type and power of the lamp determines its shape, as well as the presence or absence of a socket (usually E14).
A separate niche is occupied by lamps whose LEDs are placed on a printed circuit board.
If it fails, the light bulb cannot be replaced. You will have to either change the entire lamp or look for LEDs. And its price is not too low. Lamps that do not have a socket press the lamp using a spring shaped like a cut ring.
The lamp is inserted due to the fact that the ring expands and fits into the groove located in the housing. This lamp is suitable for both LED and halogen lamps. Just don’t forget about the supply voltage that the lamps can withstand. To fix the lamp in the ceiling, it is necessary to make a hole at the location of the lamp, which will be slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the housing flange.
The ears of the springs must be spread to such an extent that they fit into the hole made. Then they can be released. Leaning on the ceiling, they press the lamp against the flange until it stops, which allows the lamp to be fixed.
After fixing the lamp in the ceiling, we thread the wire and connect the socket with the terminal block. The socket must be put on the socket, the lamp must be inserted into the lamp body, the spring must be released and secured.
Electrical wiring diagram for spotlights
Before installing the ceiling, you should pay attention to the choice of the type of lamps, the number of lamps, their location, and the choice of power. To do this you need to develop electrical diagram. During its development, the method of fastening the wires to each other and the points at which these wires are connected are taken into account.
Since there were wires coming out of the wall on which the lamp was located, they will be used to install the ceiling lamps. Since after installation stretch ceiling There will be no access to the wires; they need to be secured in a reliable way. I settled on twisting and soldering with tin-lead solder. These points are marked on the diagram.
If you plan to place such lamps in a room where a computer or TV is located, you need to take into account that the angle of incidence of the beam on the surface is equal to the angle of reflection. Therefore, such lamps cannot be placed above equipment, as there will be glare from the monitor. Before planning the lamp, you need to consider the arrangement of furniture and equipment in the room.
If the lamps are powered from a voltage of 220 V, additional equipment will not be required, but if they need 12 V, then it should be taken into account that under the power source of these lamps you need to make a place that will have easy access for maintenance.
Installation of electrical wiring for connecting spotlights
After purchasing all the necessary lamps and wires, you can begin to work.
Electrical wiring can be installed at any stage of repair work. Even before installing a stretch ceiling. During the renovation of the walls, the light turned out to be dim. I had to connect temporary sockets into which energy-saving lamps were screwed.
Before installing the wires, select and mark the locations of the lamps. Marked with circles in the photo. To prevent wires from sagging, fasten them at intervals of 40 - 50 cm.
To secure the wires, you can use dowels - clamps (left photo) or nail clips (right), which have different sizes. If the installation will be done with a dowel - a clamp, drill a hole in the wall, put on the clamp and hammer the dowel into the wall. To secure the wire with a nail clip, press the wire against the wall and hammer in the nail. This installation is suitable for attaching wires to plaster, wood, and plastic.
Nail staples are bad because the nail can fall out and the wire will lie on the ceiling. This mount was immediately thrown aside. The Khomuts were not at home. Therefore, I used the easiest method, which is based on securing the wire to the wall with a clamp made of vinyl chloride tube. To do this, drill a hole in the ceiling and hammer in a dowel. We wrap the tube around the wire and screw it with any self-tapping screw.
Making a harness for wiring ceiling spotlights
After installing the ceiling, access to the wiring will be limited. Therefore, the connection of wires to each other must be done efficiently. Most often, the wires are connected using a terminal block, say “Wago”. However, the most reliable method is soldering. That's what I used.
To minimize work under the ceiling, the harness was made in advance. All that remains is to attach it to the ceiling and connect it to the main wiring. To find out the length of the wires, it is necessary to take measurements between the mounting points of the lamps. The measurement results were entered into the electrical circuit, which was an electrical installation.
The harness was made of stranded wires with double insulation. The core in such a wire is covered with polyvinyl chloride and entwined with thread. To make it easier to carry out work, the wires were twisted into a pigtail.
The first step was to remove the insulation from the wires, which allowed the wires to be tinned with solder. The second section of the corridor involves branching wires, so they were twisted and soldered. To increase the reliability of the insulation, the soldering points are shifted relative to each other.
Tubes are placed at the soldering points to prevent short circuits. To prevent their movement along the wires, they should be secured with cambrics. The solder joints could be insulated using insulation tape. To avoid tangling the wires, the cambrics were marked with a marker. Part of the wire was located under the plaster. A polyvinyl chloride tube was placed in this place.
The tourniquet was attached to the ceiling. It's time to connect the wires to the main wiring. To do this, the wires coming out of the wall were trimmed with a shift. Since the wire is quite old, the cores are rough. To avoid damaging them, the insulation was removed thermally, namely with a soldering iron. The cores were protected, tinned, and then insulating tubes were put on.
Tubes are needed to protect a person from short circuits. The wires will not be able to touch one another on their own.
The place where the connection was made is secured to the ceiling with a clamp using a self-tapping screw. That's it, the wiring is complete.
The temporary sockets are connected with terminal blocks, the lamps are screwed in, and the room can be repaired.
Installation of an LED ceiling lamp on a PVC stretch ceiling
The technology described above is suitable for installing lamps on a rigid structure, such as plasterboard or a slatted ceiling. If the lamp is installed directly on a PVC ceiling, it is necessary to provide mounting points for the lamps, otherwise the ceiling will sag under their weight.
For such purposes, special fittings are sold on the market. In the photo you can see the ramp, that is, the mount for the lamp. The platform is made in the form of a cone, on the surface of which there are steps.
When I decided to renovate the hallway, one of the first questions that arose was the question of choosing the type of ceiling finish and which ceiling lights to install. Having many years of experience in using PVC stretch ceilings in the bathroom and living room, it didn’t take long to choose the type of ceiling. I decided to install a PVC stretch ceiling due to its many advantages compared to other types of ceiling finishing.
The ceiling lights took some thought. On the one hand, I wanted to install modern LED spotlights, and on the other hand, in the hallway there was a homemade set of chandeliers and sconces, made with my own hands. I liked them, and I didn’t want to part with either the chandelier or the sconce.
Ultimately, a compromise solution was found: the chandelier and sconce at the entrance to the hallway should be left hanging in their original places, and in the hallway corridor, where a single-lamp lamp hung on the wall, spotlights built into the suspended ceiling should be installed.
Before installing a suspended ceiling, it is necessary to lay electrical wiring, and in order to lay the wires, it is necessary to develop an electrical circuit based on the type and number of lamps, the type of light bulbs and their power.
Selecting the type of light bulb for a recessed ceiling light
Before purchasing a lamp built into a suspended ceiling, you need to select the type of light bulbs and determine the required number of them to ensure sufficient illumination of the room. Currently, four types of lamps are used for installation in recessed ceiling lamps: incandescent, halogen, compact (they are also called energy-saving or fluorescent lamps) and LED. Each type of light bulb has its own advantages and disadvantages; in addition, it affects the minimum distance between the installation horizon of a suspended ceiling and a fixed one, which is a determining factor in rooms with low ceilings.
Using the table below, you can easily make the optimal choice of the type of light bulbs for a suspended ceiling, based on your requirements and boundary conditions.
| Table for selecting the type of light bulbs for recessed ceiling luminaires | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Technical Parameters | Lamp type | |||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Minimum distance between main and suspended ceilings*, cm | 10-12 | 5-6 | 10-12 | 5-6 |
| Supply voltage, V | 220 | 12, 220 | 220 | 12, 220 |
| Luminous flux*, Lm/W | 10-15 | 15-20 | 50-70 | 80-120 |
| Maximum power*, W | 40 | 40 | 40 | 7 |
| Color temperature, °K | 2700 | 3000 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100, 6400 | 2700, 3300, 4200, 5100 |
| Service life*, hour | 1000 | 4000 | 8000 | 70000 |
| Price | Very low | Low | Average | High |
Technical parameters marked * may differ up or down depending on the design of the lamp and light bulb, the power of the light bulb, the manufacturer, and the type of suspended ceiling. For example, PVC stretch ceilings are afraid of heating above 60°C, and this limits the permissible power of light bulbs in recessed luminaires.
It should be noted that halogen lamps, designed for a supply voltage of 12 V and 220 V, are very sensitive to excess supply voltage and often burn out as a result. For 12 V halogen lamps, a step-down transformer or power supply (adapter) is required, for which you must remember, in case of installing a suspended ceiling without access to the interceiling space, to provide a special place on the wall.
You can obtain more detailed information about incandescent and halogen lamps, energy-saving lamps, and LED lamps by visiting the website pages specifically dedicated to them.
Calculation of power and number of lamps
The power of the lamps depends on the size of the room (area, height and shape), the color of the walls and furniture, the purpose of the room and the preferences of the owner. Some people like bright light, while others prefer warm, diffused light of low brightness.
It is almost impossible to accurately calculate the power and number of luminaires, taking into account all factors. For an estimated calculation, you can use the illumination data presented in the table, thanks to which, taking into account the luminous flux depending on the type of light bulb, you can determine how many and what power lamps need to be installed in the room, depending on its type.
| Table for calculating the power and number of lamps depending on the type of room | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Type of room | Power required to illuminate 1m2 of room area depending on the type of lamp |
|||
| Incandescent | Halogen | Energy saving | LED | |
| Children's | 40 | 30 | 10 | 5 |
| Kitchen | 30 | 25 | 7 | 4 |
| Living room, bathroom, toilet | 25 | 20 | 6 | 3 |
| Bedroom, hallway, corridor | 20 | 15 | 5 | 2 |
| Utility rooms | 10 | 7 | 2 | 1 |
Let's look at an example of a calculation that I did for the hallway corridor. It was planned to install LED ceiling spotlights. The shape of the corridor is the letter T with areas of 2.8 m2 and 4.5 m2. The total area of the corridor was 7.3 m2. Let's calculate the required power of the lamps 7.3 × 2 = 15.6 W. Since the ceiling height was 2.75 m and the walls were planned to be painted in creme brulee color, taking into account the complex shape of the corridor, the optimal solution would be to install four ceiling spotlights with LED lamps installed in them with a small reserve, with a power of 5.5 W, supply voltage 220 V with pin socket GU5.3. The pin plinth for suspended ceilings is good because it has small dimensions, which is important when the inter-ceiling space is small in height.
Before the renovation, there were paintings by artists on the walls in the corridor, which were planned to be left in their original places after the renovation was completed. Therefore, for undistorted color rendition, white light LED lamps with a color temperature of 4000 K were chosen. If you need warm light, then you should choose a lamp with a color temperature of 2700 K.
It should be noted that it is not always advisable to use recessed ceiling lamps in rooms as the only source of lighting. A much better result can be obtained by using additional wall lamps or table lamps in the work or relaxation area. In this case, the power of the lamps in the ceiling lamps can be reduced.
If you have local lighting lamps, it is quite possible to completely abandon the lamps built into the suspended ceiling, replacing them with LED strip ceiling lighting. So, when solving the issue of lighting the premises of an apartment, there is room for creative imagination to unfold.
Selecting a wire for wiring spotlights
To lay the power supply wiring for four selected lamps with a total power of 22 W, any double-insulated electrical wire designed for wiring is suitable. A copper stranded double connecting wire, for example type PVA 2×0.75, is best suited. You don’t have to think about the cross-section of the wire cores, since the maximum current will not exceed 0.1 A.
When using 12 V halogen lamps in ceiling lamps, the wire cross-section must be calculated. One such 60 W light bulb consumes a current of 5 A. And if ten light bulbs are needed for lighting, then the current consumption will be 50 A.
Selection and installation of a recessed ceiling spotlight
The range of recessed ceiling lamps in any lighting store is huge, but they are all designed the same and differ only in the type of body finishing and additional decorations. Some models of recessed luminaires provide the ability to change the direction of the light flux within small limits.
Since I needed to illuminate the corridor, the choice fell on the simplest type of recessed lamp, which also included a base socket.
Any recessed ceiling lamp consists of a body, which is a shaped profile ring with areas for attaching two springs with ears. Depending on the type and power of the light bulbs, the lamp housings come in different diameters and may not have them, like the lamp in the photo above, or they may have an electric socket installed, usually E14.
A special place is occupied by LED ceiling spotlights, in which the LEDs are installed directly in the housing on a printed circuit board.
The light bulb in such a lamp cannot be replaced, and if it fails, you will have to change the entire lamp or look for replacement LEDs. Such lamps are expensive.
For lamps without sockets, a spring in the form of a cut ring is used to secure the light bulb in the body.
The light bulb is inserted into the lamp body and is fixed due to the fact that the spring ring, unclenching, fits into a specially made groove in the body. This lamp is suitable for installing both halogen and LED bulbs. When replacing halogen bulbs with LED bulbs or vice versa, you must remember to check what supply voltage they are designed for.
To fix a ceiling spotlight in a suspended ceiling, regardless of its type, a hole is cut in a given location on the ceiling, slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the flange of the lamp body.
The ears of the springs are brought together by hand to such an extent that they pass into the hole in the ceiling. The ears are inserted into the ceiling hole and released. Based on inner surface suspended ceiling ears, pull the lamp until it stops with a flange into the lower surface of the suspended ceiling and thus fix the lamp.
Such a simple design for mounting a ceiling lamp allows you to hide the elements of its fastening and easily remove the lamp if necessary. Simply grab the base of the lamp and pull it down.
After installing the lamp body on the suspended ceiling, a wire is threaded through it and connected to the socket using a terminal block. The socket is placed on the base of the light bulb, the light bulb is inserted into the lamp body and secured with an expansion spring.
Electrical wiring diagram
for spotlights
Before installing a suspended ceiling, after choosing the type of light bulbs, calculating their power, the number of lamps and their installation points, an electrical wiring diagram is developed. When developing an electrical circuit, it is necessary to take into account the points and methods of connecting the wires to each other and to the lamps.
Since wires were already coming out of the wall, to which the wall lamp had previously been connected, it was decided to connect the ceiling lamps to these wires. It was planned to install a suspended stretch ceiling made of PVC, and the wires came out above the level of the stretch ceiling, and, therefore, there would be no access to the connection points of the wires after installing the ceiling. Therefore, it was decided to make all wire connections in the most reliable way, twisting followed by soldering with tin-lead solder. The soldering points were marked on the electrical diagram.
When choosing a place to install lamps and chandeliers in rooms where there is a TV or computer, you must not forget that the angle of incidence of the light beam is equal to the angle of reflection. Taking into account this rule, lamps must be installed in places that exclude their reflection on the monitor screen, therefore, to select installation points for lamps, it is necessary to think about how the furniture will be arranged, in what place the TV or computer monitor will be installed.
When choosing light bulbs for a supply voltage of 220 V, installation of additional devices is not required. In the case of using light bulbs with a supply voltage of 12 V, it is necessary to provide space for installing transformers or adapters, taking into account their overall dimensions and possible access to them for maintenance or repair.
Attention! Before connecting spotlights, to avoid damage electric shock, it is necessary to de-energize the electrical wiring. To do this, turn off the corresponding circuit breaker in the distribution panel and check the reliability of the shutdown using the phase indicator.
Electrical wiring installation
for connecting spotlights
After purchasing lamps, determining their installation locations, purchasing materials and equipment, you can begin installing electrical wiring.
Installation of electrical wiring for connecting lamps can be carried out at any stage of the renovation of the room, right up to the installation of suspended ceilings. But when repairing the walls in the corridor, it turned out that the light from the existing lamp was not enough. Therefore, the installation of electrical wiring had to be done first, and temporary sockets with energy-saving light bulbs had to be connected to the electrical wiring for lighting.
Before installing the wires, it is necessary to mark on the ceiling the installation locations of the lamps (circled in the photo) and the points where the wires are attached. To avoid sagging, the wires, depending on their rigidity, are fixed in increments of 40-50 cm.
To secure wires to the ceiling and walls, there are special dowel clamps (pictured on the left) and nail brackets (pictured on the right) of different sizes. To secure the wire with a dowel clamp on the wall, you need to drill a hole, put the dowel clamp on the wire and hammer the dowel into the hole. To secure a wire with a nail clip, you need to press the wire against the wall with it and hammer in the nail. Suitable for installing wires and cables on wood, plastic, and plaster.
Nail clips driven into a concrete plastered ceiling may fall out and remain on the PVC sheet. Therefore, this type of fastening was discarded. It turned out that I didn’t have dowel clamps at hand, so I used a simple and reliable method of securing the wires to the wall, using a clamp made from a vinyl chloride tube. A hole is drilled in the ceiling, a dowel is driven into it, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel through the hole made in the clamp. Since the weight of the wire is negligible, any self-tapping screw and dowel of the smallest standard size will do.
Making a wiring harness
ceiling spotlights
Since the electrical wiring for ceiling lamps after installing a stretch ceiling will be inaccessible for maintenance and repair, all wire connections in the interceiling space must be made extremely reliably. Connections are usually made using terminal blocks, such as Wago. But the most reliable type of connecting wires is soldering, and this is the method I used.
To minimize the amount of work at heights near the ceiling, a harness was made in advance, which will only need to be fixed to the ceiling and connected to household electrical wiring.
To determine the length of the harness wires and soldering points, using previously made markings on the ceiling, the distances between the wires for connection and the installation locations of the lamps were measured. The measurement results were immediately applied to the electrical circuit, which was also an electrical circuit.
The harness was made of stranded copper wire with double insulation (the core is entwined with silk thread and covered with polyvinyl chloride). For convenience, the wires were twisted together into a pigtail.
After removing the insulation from the wires, they were tinned with solder. In the second section of the corridor, the wires had to branch out. Therefore, the wires were twisted in pairs and soldered with solder. Please note that to increase the reliability of the insulation, the connection points of the wires were made offset relative to each other.
Before the connection, the wires were covered with insulating tubes, which, after soldering was completed, were moved to the connection points. To prevent displacement of the insulating tubes, they were fixed on both sides with cambrics that fit tightly on the wires. Together with the displacement of the connection points, this insulation method guaranteed the reliability of the electrical wiring. Insulating the wires could also be done using ordinary insulating tape. To avoid confusion, the cambrics were marked.
When bending the cross beam, a small section of the wire harness passed below the level of the suspended ceiling. This section of electrical wiring ran under the plaster. To ensure reliable insulation, it was additionally covered with a polyvinyl chloride tube.
After the harness was secured to the ceiling, it was time to connect it to the apartment electrical wiring. To do this, the length of the conductors of the double wire coming out of the wall was trimmed with a shift. Since the wire was old, its insulation became rough and, in order not to damage the wires, it was removed thermally using a soldering iron. The cores were stripped and tinned with solder, and insulating tubes were put on them.
All that remains is to wind the ends of the bundle onto the cores of the network wire, solder it with solder and put on the insulating tubes. Thanks to the technology of shifting the wire connections, tubes are needed practically for human safety and aesthetics. Electrical wires cannot accidentally connect to each other.
The connection point is suspended from the ceiling using a clamp with a self-tapping screw. The electrical wiring for the spotlights has been completed.
Temporary electric sockets in places where spotlights will be installed are connected using terminal blocks, the light bulbs are screwed in and the repair can continue.
LED Ceiling Light Installation
on a PVC stretch ceiling
The technology for installing ceiling lights, including LED ones, on any suspended ceiling of a rigid structure, such as plasterboard, slatted ceiling or Armstrong, is described above. When installing a spotlight on a suspended ceiling made of PVC or other plastic material, it is necessary to install additional fasteners, otherwise the ceiling will sag under the weight of the fixtures.
For these purposes, special fittings are produced. The photo shows a universal platform (ramp) for mounting spotlights. The platform has the shape of a cone, the surface of which consists of steps.
To adjust the diameter of the platform mounting hole to a specific type of ceiling lamp, use a sharp knife to cut off the excess steps from the cone.
The platform is attached to the main ceiling using perforated steel tape. A piece of tape of the required length is unrolled from the roll and cut with metal scissors.
There are two platforms with holes on the platform for fastening the tape with a self-tapping screw. If you don’t have a short-length self-tapping screw, you can tighten a long one. The protruding part must be removed with side cutters.
The fittings for spotlights are screwed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, LED bulbs are connected for testing. Everything works, you need to remove the light bulbs and you can start installing the stretch ceiling.
After the suspended ceiling is installed, the installation of lamps begins. To ensure that the PVC film does not tear and does not heat up too much, before making a hole in it for the lamp, a special plastic thermal insulation ring is glued to the place of its installation with special glue.
The film is cut out along the inner circumference of the ring with a sharp knife, the cartridge is removed and the platform is centered. The perforated tape is easily deformed, and the ceiling bends, so you can easily adjust the height and location of the platform in the horizontal plane.
Installing a ceiling light on a platform will ensure its reliable operation and will prevent the stretch ceiling from sagging and being damaged due to excessive heating when using halogen light bulbs.
In the photo you see the final result of the work on installing spotlights in a suspended ceiling.
Installation of spotlights with your own hands, contrary to popular belief, is not a complex electrical installation process, takes little time and does not require any special training. This article details step by step photo installation manual, after reading which, installation of spotlights with your own hands will not cause you any questions or difficulties.
It is worth noting that the main advantage of spotlights, relative to other lighting devices (chandeliers, wall and ceiling lamps), is uniform illumination of the entire area of the room and the almost complete absence of shadows from objects, which has a very beneficial effect on our vision.
There are many different options for installing spotlights, each of which uses its own specific brands of wires, methods for attaching them to the ceiling, connecting them to lamps and to each other. The lamps can also have various lamps, for example, 12 volts, where the connection is made through a step-down current transformer, 220 volts, and are also now becoming very popular led lamps. In our example, we will consider the option of installing spotlights with 220-volt incandescent lamps, which is the simplest, safest, most reliable and practical.
What do you need to consider before starting installation?
As a rule, the lion's share of suspended ceilings is mounted from materials susceptible to combustion, these can be plastic panels, MDF panels, all types of suspended ceilings, plywood or chipboard. In our example, the ceiling is made of plastic panels.
This type of ceiling is particularly flammable, so it should special attention pay attention to fire safety. For this case it is:
- non-flammable, heat-resistant wires
- reliable method of connecting wires to each other
- correct choice of power of lamps that will be installed in luminaires
The requirement for the use of non-flammable wires applies to all types of suspended ceilings, it is especially relevant when using incandescent and halogen lamps in spotlights. Since when they are used, there is strong heating emitted by the lamp on both sides of the ceiling. Wires constantly exposed to strong thermal effects must withstand prolonged temperature loads, otherwise insulation destruction, short circuit and fire are possible. The greater the power of the lamp installed in the spotlight, the greater the heating to which the wires are exposed.
Choosing a wire
There are a huge variety of non-flammable or low-burning brands of wires, but we need to find one that meets our specific criteria:
- don't burn
- withstand prolonged exposure to high temperatures
These characteristics are fully possessed by RKGM brand wire.
RKGM wire is a soft stranded copper wire, heat-resistant, heat-resistant, non-flammable.
Has two insulating layers:
- external, consists of fiberglass varnished winding
- internal, made of silicone rubber of special strength
Temperature characteristics from -60 to +180 degrees Celsius. Wide range of applications of this wire includes baths and saunas, where air heating and temperature differences reach critical values.
Connecting wires
To connect the wires to each other, we use a manual crimping press and copper or tinned copper sleeves.
For soft copper wire, this method connection is almost ideal, which can only be competed by tin soldering.
If you don’t have a press at hand, an alternative can be electrical installation pliers or wire cutters, the operating principle of which is no different from the operating principle of an electrical installation crimping press.
At what distance should spotlights be placed on the ceiling?
Since spotlights are structurally installed inside the ceiling, they have a limited lighting angle, directly next to the lamp it is 30 degrees, and then it begins to dissipate.
For optimal lighting, lamps must be positioned in such a way that the light fluxes emitted by them necessarily intersect. Thus, a uniform distribution of light flux is achieved.
For example; with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters, it is advisable to space the lamps no more than 1 meter from each other andno more than 60 centimeters aboutt the edge of the wall.
For clarity and a visual representation of how the lamps will be located on the ceiling, you need to make preliminary markings. Let's do it using insulating tape.
We cut two small strips from the electrical tape and paste them on top of each other, so that we get a cross, which in our case will imitate a spotlight on the ceiling. We make crosses according to the number of lamps and stick them on the ceiling.
Now we have the opportunity to look at the whole picture and see how the spotlights will look and, if necessary, adjust their locations. After the crosses simulating spotlights are evenly distributed across the ceiling, it is necessary to make precise markings using a tape measure.
We make precise markings of lamps on the ceiling
First, measure the distance from the wall to the outermost lamp. Next, evenly divide the distance between the remaining lamps. With a ceiling height of 2.5 m, it is recommended to install the outer spotlights near the walls at a distance of no more than 60 cm, the wall should not remain dark and unlit, between the others there should be no more than 1 meter, for uniform lighting the light fluxes of the lamps should intersect.
If the ceiling consists of joined panels, as in our case, and the location of the lamp falls on the joint, move it slightly to the side. If this is not done, then when making the hole for the lamp, two panels are very likely to be damaged.
We make holes for spotlights
Let's start making holes for the lamps.
For it we will need:
- wood crown of the required diameter, for most lamps it is 68 mm
In our example, we use just such a crown, 68 in diameter.
Here, everything is simple and clear, we insert the bit into a drill or screwdriver and make holes in pre-marked places by drilling circles in the ceiling.
But if there is no crown, then the process of making holes will be more labor-intensive.
We will need:
- electric drill or screwdriver
- thin drill bit for metal or wood
- stationery knife
To do this, draw a circle of the diameter required for installing the lamp. I note that the diameter of the outer part of the lamp, which will be located on the front part of the ceiling, should not coincide with the hole. The hole should be a little smaller, otherwise the lamp will simply fall inside the ceiling. The outer skirt of the spotlight, entering the hole, rests against the front part of the ceiling, and the springs, designed to fix the lamp, rest against the inside of the ceiling. This way the lamp will be securely pressed to the ceiling on both sides.
We have drawn a circle, now with a thin drill we drill holes along the line of the circle. The closer the holes are to each other, the easier it will be to make the hole. For the next step we need a utility knife. Using a knife, we connect the drilled holes together, cutting the jumpers remaining between them. It turns out to be a round hole. Remove the remaining burrs with a knife or file.
And so the holes, all the holes are ready, move on to the next stage.
Wire installation
All spotlights must be connected to each other by wires, through which electricity will be supplied.
First of all, we make jumpers between the lamps. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the holes.
We add 40 centimeters to the result, measure the wires according to the resulting dimensions and cut them off. We will need two wires of the same length, one will be used to supply zero to the lamp, the other for phase.
Since the wire is soft, problems may arise with pulling. To do this, we make a hook from a piece of hard steel or copper wire. With its help, we will stretch the wires between the holes that we made for the lamps. In our example, we use a hard, copper, three-core wire with a cross-section of 2.5 square. A PV1 brand wire with a cross-section of 6 square is ideal for these purposes.
We align our broaching wire as much as possible, so that it is even and straight, like an antenna. Now, we make a hook at one of its ends.
We insert the broach with a hook into the first hole, so that its direction coincides with the second adjacent one, and catch the hook of the broach wire in it . If problems arise when pulling, you can make a counter hook. It is manufactured similarly to the pulling wire, only it is shorter in size. It is launched towards the broaching wire and by catching it clings to the broaching hook, then it is fully inserted between the holes.
Now, on the pre-prepared wires, measured to size, on one of the sides, we make a small loop.
Since the wire is soft, the loop should be secured with insulating tape. 
We hook the loop to the hook of the broach wire and very easily pull it inside the ceiling, pulling out the broach along with the wire.
We perform similar actions for all lamps.
The wires are laid in a cable, connecting all the lamps together in a chain. For clarity, let's look at everything using our example. In the picture below there are four wires. Two phases and two zeros. The first lamp should receive power, phase from the switch and zero directly from distribution box. For a specific example, turning on spotlights will be done with a single-key switch; a detailed description of the principle of operation of the circuit and its visual, step-by-step implementation, if necessary, you can study in the article. The first lamp should be connected from the supply wire, then a jumper (zero and phase) should go to the next second lamp. Where everything is done by analogy with 1 lamp, two power wires, zero and phase, arrived from the first to the second lamp, two went to the third, plus to these wires, in the future the spotlight number two will be connected. At the end of the article you can see a diagram for connecting spotlights.
For ease of understanding Now the picture below shows only jumpers, two wires came (zero and phase), let it be power, we will mark it with yellow electrical tape, and two wires went (phase and zero) to the second lamp. Which of the wires will be zero and which phase is relevant only for lamps with a threaded socket; in our example this is exactly what is shown. For other types of cartridges, which usually have a factory cartridge already charged with wires, this is not important. Exceptions may be made, only some types LED lamps, contact designations must be marked on them.
This picture should be repeated on all lamps, that is, in all holes except the last one, there will only be power, phase and zero, a jumper from the penultimate lamp.
In our example there will be only two lamps.
Attention! Before execution electrical installation work, care should be taken to ensure the safety of their conduct. Therefore, all connections, cores and wires to which the connection will be made should be disconnected from the power supply. After that, be sure to make sure that there is no voltage on them and only after that, start working. You can check the presence or absence of voltage using a voltage indicator, as this is described in detail in the article.
Connecting spotlights
Now, let's start preparing the lamps for installation. We cut two identical pieces of wire 20 cm long and remove the insulation from both ends. On one side 7 mm, on the other 5 cm.
Stripping the RKGM wire has its own characteristics, it’s all about the varnished fiberglass winding, it is very difficult to clean, it gets shaggy and leaves fiberglass hairs, which then get in the way when connecting the wires to each other.
What needs to be done to avoid these difficulties.
We cut the wire to the required length, in our case it is 20 cm, prepare insulating tape and a knife.
We measure the required distance on both sides that needs to be stripped and wrap electrical tape around the wire. Our sizes are 7 mm and 5 cm. 
Next, we make a cut along the edge of the insulating tape around the wire, and remove the insulation from the wire. There is no need to cut the insulation too much, as the thin veins will be damaged and our wire from a cross-section of 1.5 mm will turn into 1 mm. Our task is to carefully trim the fiberglass winding; the second insulation of the core, consisting of silicone rubber, is easily removed. 
After removing the insulation from the wire core, the insulating tape on the side where we stripped 7 mm must be removed, since this part of the wire will be connected to the lamp. In operating mode, the contacts of a spotlight are subject to prolonged thermal exposure, especially when using incandescent and halogen lamps in luminaires. Some types of insulating tape emit an unpleasant specific odor when exposed to heat.
The other side of the wire will connect to the wires that we pulled between the holes for the lamps, here, the insulating tape does not need to be removed.
We connect the wires to the lamp contacts. As a rule, spotlights come in two versions:
- The first, with contact terminals, as in our example.
- The second, with ready-made factory wires attached to the socket. In this case, the wires already have factory-made, non-flammable and temperature-resistant insulation.
Unscrew the terminal screws on the lamp socket, preparing the contacts for connecting the wires.
Now, we compact the stranded wire, consisting of small thin copper hairs, to do this we twist them with our fingers into a tight braid, and then tighten them with pliers. This is done so that the contact terminal screw clamps the maximum number of wires. We insert the wire into the terminals and tighten the screws, after which we make sure that the core is well fixed in the contact clamp; to do this, pull it in the direction opposite to the contact.
As a result of all the manipulations carried out, a spotlight is prepared for installation, charged with wires.
Our lamp has a standard socket with a screw thread, which has two contacts, one goes to the thread, the second is connected to the central blade by a contact located inside the socket. If connected correctly, the zero should be on the thread, and the phase should be on the blade contact inside the cartridge. This is necessary so that when replacing lamps you do not get energized by accidentally touching the thread.
We connect it to the power wires.
We will connect the cores using the crimping method using sleeves. First of all, let's connect the neutral wires. To do this, we take one core from each direction, which we defined as zero, one from the supply wire, one from the jumper going to the next lamp and one from the lamp. We connect them together by twisting each other clockwise, first with our hands, then with pliers.
By analogy with zero twist, we connect the phase one. You should get two twists of three wires each.
Making wire connections. Be careful! Do not twist phase and neutral together, otherwise a short circuit will occur when the switch is turned on. We have two incoming wires, two outgoing and two to the lamp, in each direction, one conductor is phase, the other is neutral.
To make further crimping easier, you can secure the wires before twisting them with electrical tape. Then we put sleeves on the twists. They can be either copper or copper-tinned.
The cross-section of the sleeves is determined by the total cross-section of the wires. In our example, for lighting, we use RKGM wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm square. We calculate: 1.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 = 4.5 mm, take the size of the sleeve upward so that it can be freely put on for twisting, the nearest size is 6 mm square.
The cartridges are loaded. Now they need to be crimped; for this action, a hand press or pliers are used.
We do two compressions, at the beginning of the sleeve and at the end, you need to retreat 2-3 mm from the edge, otherwise the sleeve may tear.
Using wire cutters, we bite off the wire strands protruding from the sleeve and insulate the finished connections with insulating tape.
Similarly, we connect all the other wires to the lamps.
The lamps are connected, now it is necessary to install spotlights in the holes on the ceiling. We press the spring-loaded legs to the inside of the lamp and carefully insert it into the hole.
Now, screw in the light bulbs. For our example, incandescent lamps with a power of 40 W each are used.
When purchasing lamps for spotlights, be sure to pay attention to the presence of a mirror reflector.
We screw the bulbs into the lamps and turn on the lights.
Installation is complete. Everything works, turns on and off. In this article, we examined in detail the question of how to connect spotlights with your own hands.
In more detail and clearly about the connection and installation of individual electrical wiring elements (sockets, switches, including illuminated switches, chandeliers, pendant lamps and bathroom exhaust fans).
Connection diagram for 220 volt spotlights, via a single-key switch
We discussed the connection of two lamps in the article; for greater clarity and clarity, below is a diagram of connecting three spotlights for a voltage of 220 Volts (without a step-down current transformer).
Installing lamps in a suspended ceiling allows you to achieve many goals that are difficult to achieve with conventional lamps. It becomes possible to zone a room, when several separately illuminated areas are created in one room. General lighting becomes more uniform due to the distribution of luminaires over the maximum available ceiling area. In general, spotlights provide better quality, but at the same time economical lighting.
Equipment Features
The main feature of spotlights is their compactness. In this case, lighting is carried out at a slight scattering angle. This does not allow one device to illuminate a large area of the room, but it does provide a concentrated beam of light in a single direction.
The most advanced modifications of lighting fixtures are equipped with rotating mechanisms. The external elements of the devices can be rotated along an axis. Thanks to this function, it is possible to change the direction of the light. Standard non-rotating products are also available for sale.
When choosing a model, it is recommended to proceed from the type of ceiling. For example, to install LED light bulbs, you will need to provide a base with a thickness of at least 6-7 cm. To install an incandescent lamp, the thickness of the base should not be less than 12 cm.
LED devices
LED lamps are a fairly expensive solution. However, LEDs allow you to achieve high-quality lighting in a variety of shades. Diodes fit into any interior, and installation work is not difficult. In addition, LEDs do not overheat, which allows them to be used in conjunction with materials that are adversely affected by high temperatures (for example, suspended ceilings).
Pay attention! In the case of an LED, the lamp and luminaire are a single element. Therefore, if the diode fails, the entire device will have to be replaced.
Halogen lamps
Halogen light sources are the most popular lighting option when it comes to luminaires built into a suspended ceiling. Their prevalence is primarily due to affordability, variety of types and forms. The bulbs are powered from a 220 or 12 V network. The voltage parameter should be taken into account before installing the equipment in a suspended ceiling. For example, to install a 12 V lamp you will need a low-voltage power supply.
Incandescent lamps
This lighting method is the least expensive. A significant disadvantage of incandescent lamps is their size, which will affect such the most important parameter rooms, as the height of the finished ceiling. For example, the thickness of the base for an incandescent light bulb should be at least 14 cm.
Features of installation work
Plasterboard ceilings
When the holes are prepared and paint is applied to the ceiling, the installation of spotlights begins. You should act carefully so as not to disturb the ceiling covering.
First of all, direct the wires into the holes made. After this, installation work begins.
There are spring-loaded antennae on the body, due to which the lamp is fixed to the plasterboard sheet. To install it, we bring the antennae together - this will ensure that the device fits into the ceiling niche. Next, under the action of springs, the antennae move apart and secure the device body in the desired place.
It is advisable to install the lamp the first time, since the springs are very powerful and getting the device back is not easy. In this regard, it is recommended to carry out the work slowly and carefully. To make it more convenient to work, the light bulb can be removed from the housing and the installation can be adjusted using your fingers from the inside.
Armstrong ceilings
When preparing the base, it is necessary to provide in advance the distance between the base ceiling and the frame strips. The recommended distance is 20 cm. Otherwise, the installation of lamps must be carried out together with the frame. This option is inconvenient, since it will not be possible to provide unobstructed access to the lamp for maintenance.
Armstrong lighting devices are offered as square structures in which four lamps are installed. They have films or grilles on top to diffuse light.
The size of the niche for the lamp must exactly match the size of the light source. It is allowed to use one mount per pair of cells. However, it is better to allocate a fastening for each cell.
Before installation in the Armstrong structure, the diffuser must be removed from the lamp. There is no need to remove the housing and starting fittings. The lamp is installed at a slight angle, and once it has entered the Armstrong, it is rotated and aligned with the cell.
Stretch ceilings
Electrical installation work with suspended ceilings has some peculiarities. The lamps are mounted on a special mounting. This part is fixed to the ceiling even before the installation of electrical appliances. A bracket is fixed to the base ceiling, and plastic inserts are attached to it.
When the ceiling structure is installed, heat shrink rings are placed on the light bulb mounting areas. These devices are used to avoid spreading of the stretch ceiling material after creating holes for lamps in it. The rings also serve the function of protecting the canvas from excessive heat.
Having cut through the material using a knife, connect the lighting device according to the diagram. A uniform connection diagram applies to all types of devices.
Instructions for installing lamps in suspended ceilings
Required materials
For installation work you will need the following materials and devices:
- lamp with clamps;
- electric drive;
- light bulbs (suitable for the existing base);
- terminal blocks or sleeves for fastening conductors;
- insulating tape;
- switch.
Lamps must be of the same type. With this approach, it is easier to carry out installation work and there will be no discrepancies in terms of design. Lamps must have a reflective layer applied to the cone of the bulb.
The power of light sources should not be higher than 40 W. This indicator allows you not to be afraid of overheating and, as a result, destruction of nearby materials. The best choice is halogen or LED bulbs.
It is recommended to pay special attention to the wires. For drywall, two-core VVG-2×1.5 is best suited. In the case of plastic or MDF, the conductors must be coated with fire retardant material. An example suitable for plastic is RKGM.
The terminal blocks will have to be monitored periodically even after installation work is completed. Due to heating, these parts gradually become loose, so the bolts need to be tightened.
Planning
First of all, you need to decide on the installation locations of the lamps. The suspended ceiling has fastener lines with metal profiles. It is necessary to check that they do not pass through areas where lighting fixtures are planned to be installed.
Counting the number of lamps
Each device is capable of illuminating an area of 1.5 to 2.5 square meters. m. It is recommended to purchase lamps with a reserve, based on the minimum area illuminated by them (1.5 sq. m). However, you shouldn't be too zealous, because large number lamps makes the ceiling structure heavier.
Pay attention! Modern models often offered in metal frames. If such devices are installed incorrectly, unevenness may appear on the ceiling.
Marking
If a level is used, marks are first made on the floor. Next, using a laser, the dots are transferred to the ceiling surface.
It is more correct to mark the floor not with a tape measure, but with a template prepared in advance. A piece of plinth or cable duct is suitable as such.
A certain distance must be maintained from the edge of the hole in the polyvinyl chloride film to the baguette. It should be at least 3 cm.
Wiring in the ceiling
During the installation of a suspended ceiling, the wires are laid out near the planned areas of the holes for the lamps. Experts recommend providing a 10-15 cm loop around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. This will allow you to change the arrangement of the light bulbs if necessary. The photo below shows an example of how to correctly place holes with wires for lamps:
The wiring must be secured with ties, as shown in the following photo:
Making holes
You will need a crown to work with wood. This type of crown is used to drill sockets for switches or wires in furniture pieces. As a result of drilling, you need to get the maximum straight holes. Next, measure the diameter of the protruding part of the lighting device and drill a recess one centimeter smaller than the existing circumference. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to remove the wiring from the visibility zone of the suspended structure.
Connection
A two-core wire is laid from hole to hole. A noose is made near each one. Next, it is taken out of the hole where the location of the lamp is planned.
The loops are cut or the insulation is removed from the wires by about 3 cm. To install the lamp, you need a pair of 10-12 cm wire strands (3 cm of which must be exposed).
The next step is to connect one end of the wire to the terminal of the lighting fixture, and the other to the power supply conductor coming from the switch.
Fixation of the structure
Spotlights are secured to the suspended ceiling using brackets (they are located on the sides of the devices). They need to be carefully bent upward, and then the device is inserted into the pre-prepared holes.
Pay attention! Care should be taken with wires. They should not be caught, as this will result in a short circuit.
The installation work is completed by connecting the ends of the wires to the supply conductor through a switch. Now you can connect the electricity and use the lamps.