Basic rules for connecting kitchen appliances to the electrical network. Installing built-in appliances in the kitchen How to connect built-in appliances in the kitchen

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Installation of built-in appliances in the kitchen

Everything should be beautiful, the equipment should be installed correctly, so that it doesn’t break down longer and is convenient, so that you don’t have to “wrap up” extra kilometers running from the refrigerator to the stove and from the sink to the table.

It is permissible to install one appliance above another, for example, such as a microwave, oven, steamer or coffee maker.

  • Before installing the kitchen, it is necessary to carry out electrical installation of the kitchen sockets:

The use of built-in equipment differs from the use of portable equipment in that the place where the “built-in” is used is determined and it is unchanged. Therefore, there is no point in constantly unplugging the plug from the socket, and there is no need to move sockets anywhere if they are already nearby.

It’s another matter when the cable cross-section initially laid does not allow connecting more power.

Sockets must have a grounding contact, designed for a current of at least 15A and intended for hidden electrical wiring, that is, recessed into the wall (preferably).
An exception can be made for small household appliances or for electric ignition of a gas stove.

All wires that will be placed in the kitchen must be double insulated, since the walls in the room can get wet and heat up.

  • Calculation of cable (wire) cross-section for kitchen sockets:

According to the requirements of the PUE, clause 7.1.34, electrical wiring in residential premises must be only copper.

The thickness of the wire can vary either down or up, depending on the power household appliances.

  • Choosing a kitchen layout:

Try using the “triangle rule”.

Its essence is simple - the main elements of the working area in the kitchen, such as a refrigerator, stove and sink, should be located at the vertices of an imaginary triangle.

Then you won't have to waste extra energy and effort moving between these main work segments. Ideally, the area of ​​this triangle is 4-8 square meters. m.

Corner (L-shaped) kitchen - versatility, practicality and ergonomics:

One of the most advantageous options for using this type of layout would be a medium-sized square (or close to square) kitchen.

If you follow the “triangle rule”, then the angular location of the kitchen layout most closely follows it - household appliances and storage systems are located along adjacent walls, forming an ergonomic work area.

Linear (in one row) - for narrow long rooms:

Furniture and appliances occupy one entire wall, while the second remains free for the dining area.

When installing an additional “island,” you zone the room into a working and dining area.

In our age, the kitchen in an apartment is the largest consumer of electricity in the apartment (for the most part). Approximately up to 80% of powerful household appliances are located there. The power of electrical equipment in the kitchen can reach 13-15 kW. Therefore, the issue of proper connection of this household appliance to the apartment’s electrical network is very important.

Before purchasing any powerful household appliances, you need to decide in advance on the method and possibility of connecting to the apartment’s electrical network. As a rule, every kitchen has an old electrical network for household sockets and an electric stove (if the kitchen has an electric stove). Naturally, they are all located in inconvenient places for installing new furniture and, accordingly, new equipment. That is why, before installing new furniture, it is necessary to transfer (adding) new sockets in accordance with their purpose. Below are recommendations for installing sockets.

Socket for an electric stove (hob) - usually placed at a height of 10-40 cm from the floor behind the furniture or behind the stove itself. The socket is installed at 32 A. Depending on individual characteristics, it is possible to connect directly, that is, through a terminal block, etc. This issue is resolved with a local electrician. It must be remembered that the hob consumes an average of 5-7 kW, so the power line of the outlet should only be from the panel from a separate machine.

An electric oven socket is usually placed behind furniture or behind the stove next to the electric stove socket. There is a regular type socket here. The oven consumes an average of 2-3 kW. We connect this outlet from the outlet line that supplies the kitchen.

Sockets for other electrical appliances (dishwasher, etc.) are also placed at a height of 10-40 cm from the floor behind the furniture in place.

Other household sockets are placed approximately 100-120 cm from the floor above the worktop in accordance with your kitchen plan. Sockets are installed in the usual type. The outlet for the hood is placed approximately at a height of 2 m from the floor.

In accordance with the furniture plan, it is necessary to provide power outlets for furniture lamps or lighting of the kitchen work area. Don’t forget to specify how and where we will turn on this light. One point needs to be remembered. On one kitchen outlet line, when appliances are connected to all outlets on this line, there should not be more than 4 kW. This figure is approximate. If the total power of electrical appliances is greater than this figure, then it is necessary to connect one more (or two) lines from the panel from a separate machine and an RCD and divide the sockets in the kitchen according to power consumption.

A competent specialist—an electrician—knows and can do all this.

IN modern apartment The kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of current collectors connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, or even better, by several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is an approximate list of them:

  • lighting – 150-200 Watt
  • Microwave – 2000 Watt
  • Refrigerator – 100 Watt
  • Electric kettle – 2000 Watt
  • Oven – 2000 Watt
  • Water heater – 2000 Watt
  • Hob - 3500-7500 Watt

Of course, all devices will not turn on at the same time. But you must calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are turned on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If your power is higher than 7 kW, then you need to think about inputting 380V and distributing the load across phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

  • with device loads up to 3.5 kW – copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2
  • for device loads up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*4mm2
  • with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2
  • with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why there should be a brand VVGnG-Ls is discussed in detail in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-core cable. This will save you in the future from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires.

As a last resort, the third wire will be a backup for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design is approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, work area sockets can easily end up in the wrong place and end up hidden behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in their places, take a plan for arranging your kitchen furniture.

After that, mark all the necessary sockets on it. You can even do this by hand.

On this plan, there is still no need to clearly assign installation locations and calculate dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each outlet.

Number of sockets

How many minimum outlets are required in the kitchen?

The category of stationary appliances includes a refrigerator, range hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposer.

In addition, it would not hurt to mount one socket immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The area with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Place at least two pieces on each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and locations

When you have decided on the quantity, it’s time to move on to calculating the required sizes and indentations. To do this, draw something like a scan of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, you draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row, so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unambiguously with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you install it higher, the built-in equipment will rest against the forks.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the tabletop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a partition with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place sockets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not end up in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop should be at least 5cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Location - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of sockets above the kitchen splashback, consider the option of a pull-out unit from the countertop.

You definitely need to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

You will also have to make a separate outlet for it. It is not feng shui to pull the cords from above to the tabletop area.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is an outlet for the hood. However, a lot can depend on the brand. If this cheap option, then you can get by with the cable outlet and then connect it directly inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. And cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Hob and oven

If you have a powerful hob, either a cable outlet is made, followed by connection directly under the panel contact blocks, or a special power socket is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with regular forks, so there’s no need to be fancy here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the cooker and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets directly inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

If the oven is installed separately from the hob, for example at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 clause 14.29, it is prohibited to install any sockets under or above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always back off a few centimeters when installing a socket group near this plumbing fixture. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also prohibited to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is located near the wall and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On major holidays, when there is an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, a juicer, a food processor, etc.

Yes and in simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

  • for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A circuit breaker is installed
  • for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this pantograph

You can also navigate using the following table for selecting machines and cables when connecting a hob:

  • since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an incoming RCD with a current of 30 mA in the panel in front of all machines


  • A separate socket is installed for each pantograph


This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential location short circuit(due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

1 Installation of wiring and sockets before approval and approval of the kitchen furniture design project.

The problems you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since the factory cords and plugs will simply not reach the connection points.

2 Connecting the refrigerator.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on connecting them through extension cords. At the same time, their cord length is not that long, only 1 m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find the passport on the Internet and look at which side the power cord comes out of it. Add in the width of the refrigerator and plan the connection point accordingly to eliminate the need for carrying.

And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will purchase additional ones in the future freezer. Initially, you will make only one socket for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

3 Connecting sockets to “wet” appliances through a simple automatic machine.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine(if it is built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater etc. must be connected via an RCD or differential circuit breaker.

No modular circuit breakers, or even more so “plugs,” will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

4 The most common mistake is installing regular sockets (Schuko type) for the dishwasher under the sink or near the faucet.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back 500mm from the mixer (the same applies to gas pipes on stoves or hobs) and only then safely mount the electrical installation product.

If the electricians have already installed the wiring for you and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such renovations, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also prohibited to install electrical installation products in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

5 When installing the lower socket group at a distance of 10 cm from the floor, be extremely careful!

In an area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for the sink, washing machine, and dishwasher.

Without knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise it may result in a flood and unplanned repairs for you and your neighbors.

To summarize, I would like to say that electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.

The kitchen is considered the most “voracious” consumer of electricity - after all, 75-90% of all home appliances are concentrated in this room. The total power of kitchen electrical equipment can be 12-16 kW. This is why it is so important to properly connect all the equipment in the kitchen - otherwise its performance will be zero.

You need to connect the equipment according to a pre-designed project. After all, you will need to select in advance a place for the oven, refrigerator, hood, hob and, in accordance with this, determine where each socket will be installed. It is important that the places where equipment is connected to the electrical network are located so that there is easy access to them, but at the same time not in plain sight.

What you need to know when connecting equipment to the power grid

Connecting any appliances in the kitchen requires a gasket electric cable. This can be done in 2 ways:

  • hidden, that is, in the wall;
  • surface - in a protective box.

The best method is considered to be a hidden method, but it requires advance planning, thanks to which the load on the electrical network can be distributed.

There will be a difference if not the usual one is used, but . For built-in hood, oven, microwave oven characterized by functionality and decorativeness. In addition, this method of arranging appliances in the kitchen is considered incredibly economical in terms of spatial organization. It is important not only to produce stoves and so on, but also to protect the premises from possible emergency situations related to wiring. For this purpose, the panel is supplemented with a fuse - it will turn off the electricity throughout the apartment if the voltage exceeds the permissible values.

It is also worth considering the power of kitchen appliances - for a microwave, oven, hob, hood, it can vary from 1 to 6 kW. Depending on this, it is determined which socket and plug will be needed to connect a particular device. It is clear that these components must be of Euro version.

Important! Some experts suggest eliminating the “plug-socket” connection from electrical network, connecting appliances in the kitchen directly using terminal blocks. They claim that this connection method increases the reliability of the electrical network. In fact, such a connection is dangerous - the owner of the premises should always be able to independently disconnect the device from the network.

If the connection of equipment with high energy consumption (for example, a powerful hood, oven, hob) is made in an apartment with old wiring, then for each individual product its own wiring is installed from a cable suitable for the load level.

There are also special recommendations for connecting the oven and hob - for them in mandatory a power socket is installed. In addition, do not forget that the hob is connected only after the countertop has been installed.


Basic rules for installing and selecting sockets

In most cases, each apartment already has an old electrical network with sockets, but they are located inconveniently and do not allow moving equipment to the required location. Therefore, the installation of new furniture, hob and oven is accompanied by the transfer of sockets. It may also be necessary to add sockets in the kitchen - for example, for a microwave oven.

Each outlet in the kitchen is installed in accordance with the following recommendations:

  1. For a hob, the socket is installed at a height of 15-40 cm - behind the stove or furniture. The socket is installed at 32 A. The high power of such equipment (5-6 kW) forces the socket to be powered from a separate machine.
  2. For an oven (2-3 kW), a standard socket is mounted at the same height - 10-40 cm.
  1. Other household sockets in the kitchen (for example, for a microwave oven) are installed at a height of 1.0-1.2 m, along the countertop in accordance with the existing furniture layout.
  2. The outlet for the hood is mounted at a height of 2 meters from the floor level.

Important! So many devices are connected to one outlet line so that their power does not exceed 4 kW in total (it is clear that this is for cases when all devices operate simultaneously). If the power of the equipment significantly exceeds the recommended one, then a separate line is drawn through the machine.