Borehole submersible pumps "Vodomet" and its repair. Malfunctions of pumping stations and their elimination Dismantling the Gilex pumping station

Well pumps are used all over the world. After their invention and appearance on the mass market, the popularity of this equipment only began to grow.

However, pumps tend to break down, and the breakdown will have to be corrected as soon as possible. You don't want to live for weeks without water. It is about pump repair that we will now talk about, but for the closest example we will take products from the company.

1 Main pump failures and their diagnostics

The pump is a fairly simple mechanism. Its design is not particularly complex, but this is only a comparative judgment. After all, it contains a motor, contacts, an impeller, a shaft, seals, a housing, etc.

All these parts interact with each other, which leads to their gradual wear. As a result, the pump will need to be repaired.

Plus, it’s worth noting that the pump operates under rather difficult conditions. This does not apply to Gilex surface pumps, which are assembled together with and installed in separate rooms. However, even such equipment often requires repairs.

2 How is a Gilex pump repaired?

Now let's look at the repair itself pumping equipment. It is worth understanding that repairing a submersible sample will differ from repairing a surface one.

First, let's look at models like Vodomet. The Vodomet pump is a submersible model that is available in different configurations. There are models in the 40/50, 55/35, 110/110, etc. line. However, they differ not so much in design as in the choice of specific components and sizes. Otherwise, their design is extremely simple and is repeated constantly.

Repairing a Vodomet pump always begins with disassembling it. To do this, you need to carefully remove it from the well, disconnect it from the system and dry the pump from water.

Stages of work:

  1. Remove and dry the device.
  2. Remove the top housing or cover.
  3. We remove the water intake mechanisms; we will have to use a vice. But remember that the body is hollow inside, and therefore it is important not to overdo it.
  4. We disassemble the pump part; if the breakdown lies there, then at this stage you will fix it. Otherwise you will have to move to the engine.
  5. Remove the plastic corkscrew ring and take out the engine.
  6. Carefully pull out the wires and assess their condition.
  7. After completing the repair, pour non-toxic oil into the engine and assemble the pump in the reverse order.

It is important to note that the oil in the engine must be harmless. Glycerin is ideal, as it does not harm or pollute the surrounding liquid.

After disassembling the pump, it will be quite easy to fix the problem. Problematic contacts can be wiped with alcohol or re-soldered. Broken wires are replaced with new ones or fastened in a makeshift manner.

Damaged consumables or rotating parts are only replaced. They are cheaper to buy than to repair. Well, it’s better to send the engine to a specialist who can disassemble it, clean it and repair it, and also guarantee you a positive result.

As you can see, disassembling and repairing the Vodomet pump is quite easy. Moreover, it does not matter which Water Cannon you have chosen, since the design principle remains the same.

They act a little differently when repairing surface pumps and Gilex Jumbo type stations. Here you need to deal with a specific solution to the problem. If the pump is acting up, then you need to remove the housing and check all the systems.

Stages of work:

  1. We disconnect the equipment from electricity, the hydraulic accumulator and drain the liquid in the hose.
  2. Unscrew the back of the housing.
  3. Remove the moving parts of the body.
  4. We disassemble the pump chamber.
  5. We remove the impeller seals.
  6. Carefully pull out the engine.
  7. Let's deal with the wires.
  8. After completing the repair, we put the pump back together.

As in the previous case, the breakdown problem can be solved at any stage. The advantage of surface pumps is that their housing is not solid and is easier to remove. In this case, parts can be removed and disconnected inconsistently.

If there are problems with the impeller or consumables, then they are simply replaced. You will have to get to the contacts through the engine chamber - this is the main problem, but there shouldn’t be anything difficult here either.

Hydraulic accumulators are disassembled by disconnecting the hose and unscrewing the plate. Then the membrane is pulled out from there. It is advisable not to repair the relay yourself, as it is very easy to damage.

2.1 Review of the design and properties of pumps in the Vodomet line (video)


Timely repair of the Gilex pump with your own hands is a guarantee long term its operation is in good condition. Most often, device malfunctions include depressurization of the housing of submersible units, burnout of the motor winding and destruction of the impeller blades when too large elements get on them.
The article suggests getting acquainted with the features of Gilex pumps and describes brief instructions for the repair and operation of the equipment.

What features do Gilex borehole pumps have?

The Vodomet pump, the general view of which is shown in the photo, is a fairly popular model in the budget category. Its price is affordable for many owners of their plots; you can purchase the device at almost any plumbing store. Has a large number of positive reviews.

Some features of the unit are as follows:

  • Gilex water jet pumps, compared to other similar devices, are more responsive to the purity of the pumped water. If there is sand in the liquid, the pump will not last long.
  • The increased content of iron and lime impurities in the water will not have the best effect on the longevity of its operation.
  • A water cannon requires the installation of electrical protective equipment:
  1. voltage stabilizer;
  2. machine corresponding to the rated power of the pump.
  • It is advisable to purchase a device to protect against “dry running”.
  • You should not use Gilex pumps with a capacity of 3.6 cubic meters. m/hour into weak wells, with a flow rate of 0.5 to 1 cubic meter. m/hour.

Advice: When purchasing a pump from Gilex, you must install it in a well only with clean water, there should be no voltage drops in the power supply, use a stabilizer and all kinds of protection. The parameters of the pump and well must match each other.

Diagnosis of pump failures

Like any equipment, Gilex pumps break down, and they need to be fixed as soon as possible so as not to be left without water, especially in summer period. The pump is a fairly simple mechanism that is not very complicated.
Its design includes:

  • Engine.
  • Frame.
  • Contacts.
  • Shaft seal.
  • Impeller and other elements.

When interacting with each other, they gradually wear out, which may require their repair.
Gilex surface pumps are assembled with hydraulic accumulators and installed in a separate room, which contributes to their greater safety, in contrast to the submersible pumps of the Gileks - Vodomet line, which are constantly in the water and removed for the winter, which subsequently complicates their use.

Advice: Relative simplicity design allows you to repair the units yourself. The main thing is not to make a mistake that could increase material costs.

It is quite easy to diagnose the most common breakdowns:

  • If the pump does not respond when connecting electricity, you need to check the contacts and supply wire. In this case, the device is disassembled and the contacts are diagnosed with a tester. If there is no signal on one of them, it means it is damaged.
  • An unnatural color of the element or it may be damp can also indicate its unsuitability. If the reaction is positive, you need to look for the cause in the cable, it may be broken. This often applies to submersible pumps, where the cable is suspended and poorly protected.
  • Uneven operation, clicks, or “choking” of the unit indicate problems with the impeller or even the motor. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the pump and carefully inspect all elements. The impeller may have cracked, or the bearings may have failed.
  • If the engine fails, the problem must be looked for in it.

Tip: The Gilex pump engine is a rather delicate mechanism, especially in submersible models. If its winding is burned out, then replacing it is not so easy. Therefore, it is better to use a new motor, which the Gilex company supplies as spare parts for its products.

  • Due to the occurrence of “dry running”, it can wear out very badly and even burn out in Gilex - Jumbo stations.
  • Very often in such models there are malfunctions related to pressure in the system. In this case, the reasons may be:
  1. malfunctions in the pressure switch. It's quite easy to check and configure;
  2. problems with the hydraulic accumulator. Here the membrane containing air may rupture or be otherwise damaged. In this case, partial disassembly of the tank is necessary. A lack of air in the membrane leads to the creation of an imbalance in the entire system, which means a drop in pressure.
  3. The pump broke down, which happens quite rarely. Usually the working elements fail and the device cannot cope with pumping, which is accompanied by a slight hum, weak pressure, and poor rotation of the impeller.

How to repair submersible models of Gilex pumps

Repair of surface pumps and submersible pumps differs from each other.
The repair sequence for the submersible device is as follows:

  • The unit is pulled out and dried.
  • The upper housing or cover is removed.
  • The water intake mechanisms are removed, for which it is better to use a vice. But you must be careful when working, the body is hollow inside, which makes it weak.
  • The pump part is disassembled. If a breakdown is detected at this stage, it can be repaired, otherwise you will have to move towards the engine.
  • The plastic corkscrew ring is removed and the motor is pulled out.
  • The wires are carefully pulled out and their condition is assessed.
  • Upon completion of the repair, non-toxic oil is poured into the engine and the pump is assembled in the reverse order.

Advice: The oil in the engine should be harmless. Glycerin is best suited for this, as it does not pollute the surrounding liquid.

When disassembling the pump, problems can be resolved quite easily:

  • Problem contacts are wiped with alcohol or soldered.
  • Broken wires are replaced with new ones.
  • Damaged consumables or rotating parts must only be replaced. They cost more to repair than they cost.
  • It is better to leave engine repairs to a specialist who will disassemble, clean and repair it. In addition, it will provide a guarantee for a certain period.

How Gilex surface pumps are repaired

If signs of pump failure appear, it is necessary to remove its housing and check all systems.
The order of work is as follows:

  • The equipment is disconnected from electricity and the hydraulic accumulator, and the liquid in the hose is drained.
  • The back of the case is unscrewed.
  • Its moving parts are removed.
  • The pump chamber is disassembled.
  • The impeller and seals are removed.
  • The engine is carefully pulled out.
  • Wires are controlled.
  • After completing the pump repair work, it is reassembled in the reverse order.

This type of device can be repaired at any stage. Their body is one-piece, which makes it easier to remove the pump, and the parts do not have to be removed and disconnected sequentially. If problems arise with the impeller or consumables, they simply need to be replaced. Contacts can be accessed through the engine camera, which is the main problem, but it's not difficult.
The hydraulic accumulator is disassembled by disconnecting the hose and unscrewing the plate. After this, the membrane is pulled out. It is not advisable to make the relay yourself; it can be easily damaged.
The video in this article shows how to repair any Gilex pump. Timely repair of any equipment is the key to its long operation in good condition.

Submersible pump “Vodomet” - this unit is on a par with the well-known “Malysh” and “Rucheyok” - brands whose name was transformed into a proper name, denoting a whole niche in the market for small-sized and simple pumps for autonomous wells.

At the same time, all of the above-mentioned units attract consumers not only with their reasonable price and noticeable performance, but also with the ease with which repair work is carried out to restore the functionality of the pumps.

Therefore, in this article we will look at repairing the Gilex Vodomet pump using the 60/52 model as an example. In a word, we invite you to appreciate the simplicity of the design solution of this unit and get acquainted with the secrets of its repair. Perhaps this will determine your preferences when choosing a pump for an autonomous water supply system.

Borehole pumps "Vodomet": overview of the typical design

The basis of any pump is the casing. And this part of the “Water Cannon” unit is made in the form of a metal cylinder. It is in it that the engine is mounted, on the shaft of which the impeller is placed.

Moreover, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by a special liner through which the shaft passes. In turn, the impeller itself consists of a repeating set of disks, alternating in the following order:

1 - First white disk with external blades, 2 - First black washer, matching in diameter with the white disk, 3 - First “glass” with internal blades, 4 - Second white disk with blades, 5 - Second washer, 6 - Third white disk with blades, 7 — Second “glass” with internal blades, 8 — Third washer, 9 — Fourth disk with external blades, 10 — Third “glass” with internal blades, 11 — Fourth washer, 12 — Fourth “glass” with internal blades, 13 — Fifth washer, 14 — White plug with perforation in the center, 15 —
Black lid with a round hole in the center, 16 - Short cylinder with a mesh at the bottom - filter element


This is exactly how any Vodomet pump is designed. That is, a similar alternation of disks, washers and “cups” is present in models designed to operate in 5-meter water columns (series 60/32, 150/30), and in devices submersible to 20-40 meters (series 60 /52, 150/45). During assembly, a small anti-friction washer (blue and white). All other elements - washers, discs, and “cups” - are made of polyamide.

This pump is designed for vertical installation in clean water, which is quite typical for all submersible units. trademark"Water cannon". Moreover, its design is practically no different from similar products from other model ranges of this brand. Therefore, the repair procedure applicable to model 60/52 can be extended to other pumps from .

Repairing the Vodomet 60/52 pump: how it’s done

Submersible pumps fail for three reasons:

  • Firstly, in case of siltation of the impeller.
  • Secondly, in the event of a break in the electrical cable.
  • Thirdly, in case of failure of engine compartment components (stator or rotor).

Moreover, when diagnosing a problem, you should be guided by the following rules:

  • If during a test run the shaft of a pump removed from the well rotates, then the impeller is the problem area. Clean it of sludge and the pump can be reassembled in reverse order.
  • If the pump does not even turn on, then you need to check (call with a tester) power cable. If there is voltage at the engine compartment terminals, then the cable is intact. Well, if not, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. Finding a break and eliminating it by twisting or soldering is far from the most best idea. After all, the tightness of the cable will still be broken.
  • If the cable is fine, then the problem is in the motor. And the pump will have to be disassembled to the engine compartment to remove and rewind the stator or rotor.

And in each case, repair of the unit begins with complete disassembly.

  • A short cylinder with a perforated bottom is screwed from the end of the pump - a filter element that protects the impeller from silting.
  • Next, all washers, “cups” and disks are removed from the pump motor shaft in the reverse order to that described above (in the review of the impeller design). Moreover, all numerous elements should be laid on a flat area of ​​the workbench in the order of removal from the body. After all, the impeller consists of 16 parts. And this is not counting the same number of anti-friction washers.
  • Further disassembly down to the engine compartment level begins with the removal of the engine retaining ring covering the engine cover. To do this, you need to hit the upper fitting with a mallet, move the engine down, and then pull the cord to return it to its place. Moreover, after all the manipulations, the sealing ring will remain in the “shifted” position. Next, the retaining ring is displaced by hitting it with a screwdriver to the part closest to the body. The stopper will warp, after which it can be removed.
  • After this, you need to disconnect the wires by opening the cover of the corresponding compartment, and, using a screwdriver and a mallet, “knock out” the engine from the housing.

After removal from the housing, the impeller elements are washed and dried, and the engine is sent for diagnostics and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning the impeller and updating the engine, the Vodomet 60/52 pump is assembled in the reverse order to that described above.

It is difficult to find an alternative to a drainage pump in a private yard. Without it, it will be difficult to pump out the flooded groundwater basement, drain the water from the pool, empty the flooded drainage collectors. However, technology does not last forever, so the device may break, and before purchasing a new one, you will need to somehow figure out how to solve the problems. In this situation, repairing the drainage pump with or without a float will help.

Design features of floatless devices

The approximate pumping speed of water by the drainage system is about 180 liters per minute. Operating power depends on the following factors:

  • the conditions in which it is operated;
  • distance from a water source;
  • degree of immersion in liquid;
  • contamination of the pumped liquid.

It must be taken into account that repair of drainage pumps may be necessary after pumping out too much hot water, because not all models are designed to work in extreme conditions.

Structure of drainage equipment

A modern drainage pump without a float has a pair of pipes in its design:

  • input, in contact with the sucked surface of the liquid from the reservoir;
  • outlet, diverting water to an area specified by the owner.

During the process, no drops of liquid should fall into the area of ​​the electric motor, as this can lead to its failure. In order to avoid repairing fecal pumps or other drainage systems, it is worth making sure that the pumping occurs faster than the inflow into the container.

Sewer systems can be connected through pipes, and they must be very clearly installed in relation to the diameters of the sewer pipes, practically eliminating the possible appearance of gaps.

The main advantage of a floatless drainage pump is its high degree of mobility. At the same time, repair of drainage pumps of this type is easier than their analogues.

Design of float devices

Schemes using floats are more secure. The relatively low cost of these units is also a positive factor. The float element responsible for switching off is usually located in a separate plastic box.

There are two types of such elements:

  • lightweight, relevant for water drainage and water supply;
  • heavy, in demand in storm drains and sewers.

When choosing a float, it is necessary to check its maximum tightness and high-quality insulation of the supply cable.

The most common problems

If the fecal pump does not work or repair of Gilex pumps is required, then the following cases may be the probable causes of breakdowns:

  • the motor winding has burnt out, and a characteristic odor may appear;
  • the float may be jammed below the launch horizontal;
  • the starting capacitor has failed;
  • the impeller is wedged due to the ingress of foreign mechanical particles.

It is also necessary to repair the Gilex pump yourself if you hear a hum from it, but the water is not pumping:

  • the rod has broken;
  • the operating valve is damaged;
  • the shock absorber rod mount has become loose;
  • The electrical cable is damaged.

This list includes the most popular causes of breakdowns, but individual situations occur or several emergency situations occur simultaneously.

Restoration work

Do-it-yourself repair of a Gilex pump or other drainage equipment is not always possible without special tools. In some cases, even they will not help, since expensive replacement of parts or entire units will be required.

The most popular types of repair are to release the float or remove particles blocking the rotation of the fiber. You will also be able to fix the shock absorber yourself or replace the cable. The shock absorber is fixed in a disassembled housing. The threads on the mounting bolts are tightened, and the upper nuts must be tightened.

It takes some time to repair the cable, and not all models can be replaced with your own hands.

If the rod breaks, this part is practically irreparable. You will have to purchase new equipment. Valve repair is also an unprofitable operation.

If you have knowledge of electrical engineering and there is a sufficient amount of wire to rewind the electric motor, then this procedure is carried out at home. Some repair shops offer to perform this part of the repair of Gilex pumps for a relatively small fee.

VIDEO: Dismantling and repairing drainage

Repairing a damaged cable

Cable damage may not be noticeable in all situations. A frayed winding will be visible from the outside, but it is problematic to determine a break in the internal part without external signs.

It is important to determine the point where the breakdown occurred. One of the popular places is the bend near the plug or where the cable enters the pump housing. In this situation, experienced specialists act by manual verification.

To carry out restoration work, you will need to disassemble the case, but there may be unpleasant surprises associated with the use of exotic shaped screwdrivers. This is often used to protect the product from unprofessional tampering.

When dismantling the cover, you need to carefully rock it, without making sudden jerks, so as not to damage the winding. The cavity contains a tensioner. It is usually dismantled by unscrewing 3 or 4 bolts.

The cable must be removed and cut higher from the break point, after which it will need to be returned back. However, this operation is not as simple as it seems at first glance. A wire swollen with water will increase in diameter and will not return to the hole or groove. A small amount of machine oil will come to the rescue, making installation easier.

The coupling does not need to be removed, as this may result in damage to the part.

The cable is installed in its place, the tensioner is returned and reliable insulation is ensured. When installing the cover in its place, it is necessary to ensure a clear alignment of the fixing grooves on the body to ensure maximum tightness.

VIDEO: Why the drainage system does not start

Why doesn't the work pump pump?

Very often, equipment begins to fail not for any specific reason, but, for example, during critical voltage drops in the electrical network. If there is a pump breakdown, it is advisable to check the voltage. Normally this should be 220-240V. If this indicator is correct, then the issue of repair can already be resolved.

To avoid problems with the winding and in general with the operation of the equipment, it is necessary to install a voltage stabilizer, which during operation aligns the plug and all equipment works correctly.

Dive scheme

Also, a visually intact and functional pump may not pump water for the following reasons:

  • air has accumulated in the water intake;
  • there is not enough water volume for work - you need to lower the hose deeper or the pump itself, if we are talking about a submersible one;
  • the water intake is not immersed in water;
  • if the so-called “frog” is an idle speed blocker; it can get stuck and cut off power to the equipment.

The above problems can be corrected very easily - it is enough to either completely immerse the water intake part in water or tilt it so that all the air comes out, or simply unhook the stuck “frog”. In general, it should be noted that all problems must be corrected in a timely manner and this work must be entrusted to professionals.

VIDEO: Drainage pump repair


It is not always possible to repair a Gilex pump on your own, but there are a number of minor faults that do not necessarily need to be addressed to. service center. Homeowners who operate pumping units of this brand at home will do well to know what to do in the event of a particular breakdown. After all, it is extremely uncomfortable to go without water supply for a long time; it is better to try to disassemble and repair the Gilex device with your own hands. If this fails, you can always take it to specialists.

Possible causes of failure

The main thing is not to cause even more damage to the unit when attempting repairs, so you need to act carefully and start by finding out the causes of the malfunction. To provide water supply to private households, 2 types of pumping devices are used:

The first ones are used to lift water from deep wells or wells with a depth of 20 m and supply water inside the home. They are constantly under water, being submerged at the bottom of the well. Surface stations are located outside, in technical room or a caisson, and are installed for pumping water from wells or containers whose depth does not exceed 20 m.

Before thinking that the Gilex submersible pump itself is faulty, it is advisable to make sure that the well supplies enough water. If its performance has decreased due to various reasons(for example, silting), then if the level drops, the unit’s automation will not allow it to turn on “dry”. Therefore, periodic failures household appliance They are most likely talking about a lack of water resources.


The second point: it is impossible to determine the breakdown and its cause when the unit is immersed in the well; in any case, it will have to be raised to the surface. Exception - failure circuit breaker, through which electricity is supplied to power the Vodomet pump. In this situation, you won't have to remove it.

Possible reasons for downhole unit failure are as follows:

  • failure of insulation or mechanical damage to the power cable;
  • rupture of the electrical circuit inside the pump;
  • wear of impeller parts;
  • wear of engine bearings;
  • abrasion of contact brushes;
  • short circuit in the winding and, as a result, its burnout.

The first 3 reasons can be detected and eliminated independently. If the unit makes a hum when turned on, but does not pump, and when touched, an electric shock follows, then the capacitor has burned out or dried out. As for replacing bearings, brushes or rewinding the motor, you will have to contact a service center for this.

Malfunctions of pumping stations

These complex devices are quite reliable in operation. The first problems may arise 4-5 years after the start of work, provided that no emergency situations, in which the pump had to rotate the impeller without water. And even then, these malfunctions rarely occur in the engine of the unit, but appear in other elements of the station:

  • membrane hydraulic accumulator;
  • pressure switch;
  • check valve

The most common problem leading to complete failure of the pump motor is a malfunction check valve. It begins to let water through due to wear or clogging, the supply pipe is emptied, and the impeller rotates “dry”. The rubber “bulb” (membrane) installed in the accumulator tank may also lose its seal. There are also problems with the pressure switch, then the unit does not turn on when water flow appears in the house.

Troubleshooting

Malfunctions associated with a loss of electricity supply to the pump are characterized by the absence of signs of “life” when the power is turned on.

To check the integrity of the electrical circuit, you need to use a continuity tester or a multimeter turned on in resistance measurement mode. If the power cable is intact, then you need to move on to the inside of the unit, for which you will have to disassemble it.

For disassembly you will need a standard set of plumbing tools, available in every home and including:

  • screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • keys of different sizes;
  • wire cutters

As an example, consider the disassembly process well pump Gilex model Vodomet 60/52. The sequence of work is as follows:

  1. Disconnect the unit from the electrical network and disconnect the suspension device.
  2. Place the household appliance in a vice, placing thick rubber gaskets between the jaws and the body. Unscrew the screws of the cover, which has holes for water intake, and remove it.
  3. Access will open to the shaft with impellers, intermediate washers and cups mounted on it. They must be unscrewed and removed, laying them out in the prepared place in order of priority, so as not to be confused during assembly.
  4. Place the housing in a vertical position so that the shaft points down. To do this, you will need a surface with a hole or a suitable stand.
  5. With a light blow of a hammer on the top cover through the wooden adapter, move the plastic retaining ring several turns of thread. Then pry it up with a screwdriver, turn it 90° and pull it out with pliers. If necessary, a screwdriver can be used as a guide, which must be hit to turn the ring.
  6. Following the plastic retaining ring, pull out the unit motor. Handle it carefully as the engine is filled with oil. If necessary, it can be drained.
  7. Remove the cover of the compartment where the wires are connected. It is attached to rubber seals and is knocked out using a flat-head screwdriver.


Now that the pump is disassembled, it is possible to check everything electrical circuits, right up to the motor windings. In a situation where the housing of a household appliance receives an electric current, it is necessary to replace the capacitor. Carefully examine the condition of the plastic impellers, cups and intermediate washers. When worn out, they must be replaced, for which you will have to buy or order an appropriate repair kit. There is no point in putting worn parts back, since when the shaft rotates they will still not be able to create the necessary pressure in the water supply network.

Unlike submersible pumping devices, in the Gilex Jumbo pumping station the hydraulic accumulator and pressure switch most often fail. The motor brushes may also wear out, but to replace them it is better to contact service specialists. Burnout of the windings is indicated by the smell of melted insulation and plastic; the problem will most likely be solved only by replacing the motor.

The rubber “bulb” in the hydraulic accumulator reservoir cannot be replaced, and if the seal is lost, the entire reservoir must be replaced. To check, it is enough to remove the hydraulic accumulator, disconnecting it from the station, unscrew the side plug and spool, and then fill it with water from the injection side. If water runs through the spool, the battery should be replaced. The same is done with a pressure switch that cannot be adjusted - the entire element is changed.