Watering vegetable crops - types and rates of watering. Watering norms for garden crops Watering regime for vegetables during the summer

U proper watering three main conditions: timeliness, regularity, norm. How should they be used for different vegetables in the summer?

Watering cucumbers from above or into the furrow

Cucumber roots weak and located in the surface layer of soil, which quickly dries out. In addition, plants have large leaves and evaporate a lot of water. Therefore, cucumbers are watered frequently using the sprinkling method.

However, so that the roots go deeper into the soil, the plants do not need to be watered at all until the buds appear, if there is at least a little rain. When they are not there, this is done once a week. With the beginning of flowering, watering in sunny weather is carried out every 3-4 days until 17:00. And in hot weather - every other day. If the nights are cold - in the morning. The dose for adult vines with fruits is 20-30 liters per 1 m2.

Sprinkling is abandoned when spots appear on the leaves - a symptom of infection. Do not water affected cucumbers at the roots. Water is poured into shallow grooves around the plants or along the row. Watering is stopped as soon as the water in the furrow stops being absorbed. You can use porous hoses for this.

Watering tomatoes at the root

Tomatoes do not need high humidity. That’s why they use careful watering at the root, rather than sprinkling, although this is also possible in extreme heat (35-40°). Water tomatoes in the first half of the day: at the beginning of flowering - once a week, then - once every 10-12 days. Avoid water procedures in cold or damp weather. But when they do, it’s abundant: they spend 30 liters per 1 m2.

The principle of watering peppers and eggplants

Principles of watering peppers and eggplants like tomatoes: at the root or along the furrows after 7-10 days and moderately. Difference in the number of waterings per season. For tomatoes, 8-9 times are enough, for peppers and eggplants, 10-12. And the latter have a “tomato” norm, from 15 to 30 liters, which depends on the weather.

Irrigation is carried out either in the morning or in the evening, at sunset, and if there is a long drought - at night. At temperatures below 15°C, the bushes are not watered at all to prevent the appearance of gray rot.

How often to water cabbage

Cabbage likes to drink more than other vegetables. She needs a lot of water to fill the juicy head of cabbage. Therefore, when it is formed, the irrigation rate per 1 m2 is from 30 liters, but can reach 50.

In dry and hot weather, watering is carried out by sprinkling - in the morning or evening. Daytime ablutions can provoke not only burns, but also mucous bacteriosis. When it gets cold, water is poured at the root. Early varieties are used less often - once every 2-3 days, and late varieties - every day. Stop watering late cabbage 2-3 weeks before harvesting.

Watering norm for carrots after sowing

Immediately after sowing carrots and before the first shoots, soil moisture should be high. To prevent water from evaporating, it makes sense to cover the bed with plastic wrap until the shoots emerge, and then remove it. Water from a watering can through a strainer. In moderate weather - after 10 days, the norm is 30 liters per 1 mg. The last watering is carried out 3 weeks before harvesting.

Water beets and parsley 5 times per season

Beets and parsley do not need frequent watering. During the season, 4-5 times will be enough at the same rate as for carrots. But in hot weather, of course, water more often, otherwise the plants will wither, or even simply “burn.” Water early in the morning or late afternoon in the furrows or with a hose throughout the garden bed. If you water during the day, a dense crust will form faster on the soil surface.

We water radishes little but often

Fast growing radishes are watered in open ground from 16 to 17 hours. On light soils this is done every other day, on medium soils - after 2 days, on heavy soils - after 3, and in small doses, 10-15 liters of water per 1 mg. As soon as the soil is slightly dry, it is loosened with a rake with short teeth.

Onions and garlic watering dictate the roots

Compact shallow root system V different times growing onions and garlic dictates certain doses of watering. When leaves are intensively formed and roots are growing, 30 liters of water per 1 m2 are needed, when the bulbs are poured - 30-35 liters. Water the furrows with such doses once a week.

If summer is rainy, it is better not to water the beds at all; in dry and hot weather this is done after 5-6 days. A month before harvesting, watering is stopped so that the bulbs and heads are better stored. In addition, excess moisture at this time delays their ripening.

Watering potatoes with and without mulching

It is better to water the potatoes in the furrows. When the soil dries out a little, it is loosened on top and sprinkled with peat, sawdust or humus. In this case, you can water 1-2 times a month, and without mulching - once a week. Consumption 20-30 l per 1 m2. About 1-2 weeks before harvesting, stop watering to keep the tubers dry and clean.

How long to water pumpkin and zucchini

Water pumpkins and zucchini a lot, and carefully under the roots, without exposing them in any way. The time is chosen in the morning or evening, since during the day in sunny weather large drops can linger on the wide leaves, which can turn into lenses. The rays pass through them and leave burns.

Pumpkins are watered before the first hilling 1-2 times, spending 7-8 liters per plant. Then they do not water at all for 25 days, and when the fruits begin to swell, dosed irrigation is resumed. Watering frequency is once every 10 days, consumption is 10 liters per plant. A month before harvesting, pumpkins should be protected from water so that they absorb more sugars.

Adult zucchini Water once a month carefully at the root. The norm is 20 liters per bush.

As a rule, the soil under vegetables should not dry out. If drought and waterlogging alternate, this leads to cracking of cabbage heads, carrot roots, beets, celery, radishes and tomato fruits. In addition, the carrot core grows.

But there are exceptions. Onions, garlic, melon and pumpkin are like camels, they drink their fill at first, but at the end of their lives they do not need water.

For the most part, plants obtain nutrients from aqueous solutions. Water is an integral part of all plant life processes; it participates in metabolism, affects the elasticity of plant cells, and also regulates plant temperature. In addition, the bulk of plant tissue consists of water to varying degrees. Thus, vegetable crops contain up to 90% liquid in their structure.

The harm of over-watering and under-watering.

Depending on the characteristics of the root system, plants differ in their need for watering. Excess and lack of moisture in the soil can lead to slower plant growth. In addition, irrational watering provokes a weakening of the development of leaves, in such plants the reproductive organs are formed incorrectly, and the quality and quantity of the harvest decreases.

Thus, timely watering of vegetables in the country, in combination with other methods of plant cultivation, becomes the key to high yields.

If there is an excess of moisture, the plant does not have time to consume the incoming water. Excess moisture makes the soil denser; in some cases, the soil becomes waterlogged, and as a result, the level of oxygen supply to the root system is significantly reduced. Sometimes such overflows lead to salinization of the soil layer. This happens because the liquid penetrates the lower, salt-rich layers of the soil, dissolving them and raising them to the surface. As a result, the concentration of salts in the upper layers of the soil increases, and many crops are sensitive to them.

Lack of watering can lead to negative effects. If there are long watering intervals, the plant will experience drought conditions.

Having received moisture, such plants increase their leaf growth and lose a large volume of liquid; as a result, such a plant becomes more moisture-loving and needs more frequent and abundant watering compared to those plants that were provided with scanty watering or were not watered at all.

Consequently, the irrigation scheme must be designed in such a way that the plant is not only provided with moisture, but also has time to consume the incoming water.

Basic rules and mistakes of watering.

Novice gardeners do not pay due attention to the watering process. In fact, organizing rational watering requires knowledge of certain rules.

You cannot water plants with cold well water or water from a well; low water temperature inhibits their vital activity. Before starting watering, the water must be allowed to settle in containers and warm up in the sun. According to experts optimal temperature for irrigation the water will be 15-25°C.

In order to save water and their time, some gardeners prefer to organize surface irrigation. However, such watering will not be beneficial, since the roots of the plants will not receive moisture. While infrequent deep watering will help achieve a good harvest of fruit and berry crops.

Recently, plumbing has been the main source of water for irrigation; this water’s chlorine level exceeds the recommended values, so it is better to settle it before watering.

The quality of the soil directly depends on the quality of water; the main indicators of yield and fertility of irrigated soil, as well as the quality of crop yields, are determined mainly by the level of such indicators as nutrients in water.

Irrigation water taken from reservoirs, natural or artificially created, contains large number water-soluble salts and suspended particles, which makes it more suitable for irrigating garden crops.

Soil mulching and its functions.

After deep watering, it is necessary to mulch the soil; for this you can use peat, soil, sawdust, and grass. The mulching procedure is very useful for plants; it performs the following functions:

Reduces the level of evaporation from the soil,
Prevents the formation of crust on the surface,
Limits the growth of weeds,
Maintains a low temperature of the top layer of soil, thereby promoting the development of the root system.

Watering time.

Most specialized literature contains information that best time watering occurs in the evening. The main argument is that the sun sets at this time. Moisture evaporates in a smaller volume, which means plants receive more benefits from such irrigation.

However latest research in the field of vegetable growing indicate that. That the influence of the time of day of watering is not great. But due to the increasing number of cases of such a phenomenon as powdery mildew, watering of some fruit crops should be planned for a period of time from 11 to 17.00. Watering plants at night and during cold weather is also undesirable.

Features of watering main crops.

All vegetable crops, depending on watering needs, can be divided into four main subgroups:

The first group includes plants that are particularly demanding of moisture:
Salad
Dill
Green onions
All varieties of cabbage
Radish
Radish

All these crops have a shallow root system and a large leaf part, from the surface of which a large volume of liquid evaporates. To obtain a good harvest, such crops must be watered frequently (once every 4 days), but in small portions.

The second group of crops is also demanding of moisture, but is more economical in consumption. These include:

Cucumber
Garlic
Eggplant
Pepper
Tomato

Watering of such vegetables should be reduced to once every 10-14 days; the volume of watering per 10 square meters should be at least 700 liters.

The third group of plants needs moderate irrigation. It is enough to water the plants of this group once every two weeks:

Beet
Rhubarb
Carrot
Zucchini
Potato
Asparagus
Beans

Plants of the fourth group have a voluminous root system, which allows them to obtain moisture from the layers of the lower soil layers. Such plants need watering once every 2-3 weeks. Such plants include:

Watermelon
Pumpkin

External signs of lack of moisture in vegetable crops.

You can determine the lack of watering by appearance one or another vegetable crop. So, in dry conditions, cabbage becomes covered with a bluish coating, tomato leaves acquire a dark green tint, and carrot and cucumber leaves change color to a darker color and curl. Onion leaves become covered with a waxy coating.

In order to prevent the onset of stressful conditions in case of underwatering, a simple soil test can be performed. A hole is dug to a depth of 30 cm, a little earth is removed from there and squeezed in a fist. Based on the results obtained, conclusions are drawn about the need for watering:

Sandy soil. If sandy view the soil does not clump, which means it needs urgent watering.
Sandy loam soil should be moistened if a lump is created from it without effort;
Medium and heavy loamy soil types are watered when the resulting ball falls apart in the hand when pressed.

Watering methods.

The method of irrigation is usually called the technique of distributing watering over the soil surface. The main methods of watering personal plot are considered:

watering the furrows,
sprinkling,
hose irrigation,
hole watering.

Features of watering main crops:

Smorodin It is necessary to water twice: after the bush has bloomed and during the formation of the ovaries.
Gooseberry watered twice, during budding and when filling the berries.
Malina, chokeberry and sea buckthorn It is necessary to water three times per season: during the period of bud setting, after flowering and during the period of fruit filling.
Strawberries Requires careful watering throughout the season.
Cucumber it is necessary to irrigate with warm water, often, but in small portions, and the entire bed must be watered. Answering the question about how to water cucumbers correctly, it is worth noting that before flowering it is better to water this crop in the mornings, and during flowering and fruiting - in the evenings.
Cabbage. It is necessary to water cabbage not as often as cucumbers, but much more abundantly. Cauliflower And early varieties White cabbage plants have particularly high requirements for watering.
Watering the cabbage is organized with water at 18-20 degrees every 3 days, while tying the fork - once every two days. Watering should be stopped 20 days before harvest.
Pumpkin and zucchini They have an extensive root system, and the leaf structure provides a large area of evaporation. In view of this, pumpkin and zucchini are watered often and abundantly, avoiding liquid getting on the stem.
Tomatoes belong to the cultures about which they say: “they like a dry head, but wet feet.” Water tomatoes rarely and only at the root. Falling moisture on the leaves can cause destructive damage to 35 cm, and then be treated using deep loosening. Overwatering a plant can lead to disease. Such as late blight and others, insufficient watering causes cracking of the fruits. It is worth watering tomatoes in the morning with cold water; such watering will have a healing effect. Evening irrigation with warm water will definitely not benefit the plant, since tomato roots do not like heat. It is worth stopping watering 20 days before harvesting, this will help speed up ripening.
Peppers, do not require frequent watering; the main condition for this crop is a basal irrigation scheme with warm water.
Carrot due to its characteristics, it has the ability to receive moisture from the deep layers of the earth. With insufficient watering, carrot fruits can crack and take on an irregular, bizarre shape, and its structure becomes woody and rough. However, overwatering is also contraindicated for these crops; in this case, the plant begins to actively grow tops, and the growth of its root part slows down or stops altogether. In mid-summer, carrots require abundant watering with warm water at least once a week.
Beet watered using both root irrigation and And on leaves, once every two weeks. Under dry growing conditions, the fruit becomes dry and rough
Beans– tolerates drought conditions very poorly, so this plant should be watered rarely, but plentifully.
Potato. Watering this crop has a good effect on its yield level. Potatoes are watered infrequently, but abundantly

Narrow beds, watering features.

Those who use narrow bed technology should pay attention to the fact that in such cases the soil is not loosened in order to avoid damage to the roots. It is worth watering the vegetables in such beds every time the top layer becomes dry. In hot weather, daily watering is necessary.

Warm beds, watering features

In order to speed up the process of rotting in warm beds, it is necessary to provide microorganisms with a moist environment, so it is necessary to water vegetables in warm beds more often than in ordinary ones.

Good day, dear readers! The hot summer is here. Have you decided to take care of your favorite vegetable garden, but then got into an argument about watering? But really, when is it better to water the garden, in the morning or in the evening? Let's look at this issue now.

You've probably noticed that some plants stand out from others, and not for positive reasons. Just like a person, it can experience dehydration, in which case you should act immediately!

What do such specimens look like? Dried out, lethargic, you obviously won’t like their appearance. If you find these, immediately pour plenty of water. If you do not make up for this loss, its buds and leaves will turn yellow, dry out and fall off, after which the wilting will spread further: first to the stem, and along it will reach the root. And if he dies, the whole plant will die.

Can the meeting time be changed?

At what time should you water the plot? Ideal during a catastrophic drought or heat - evening. In fact it is almost night when there is no wind and the water will evaporate in minimum quantities. It is permissible to water the garden early in the morning, while it is not yet very hot outside. But remember, if you notice a dehydrated plant even in the middle of a dry day, do it immediately, without waiting for a more or less adequate time for this. This should be done generously, right to the root. Water should not get on the leaves and shoots! Why? More on this below.

Many people often wonder whether garden beds need watering after rain. Test the depth of the wetted soil by sticking your finger into the soil. Most often, it is small, a couple of centimeters. And this after heavy rain! Alas, precipitation in hot weather very rarely provides plant roots with sufficient moisture. Light rain that lasts for several hours copes much better with this task.

You can check the amount of precipitation using a precipitation gauge or rain gauge. Install it on the site, in any open place.

So, how much does it cost to water your vegetation? It's best late in the evening, maybe in the morning. If watering is supplemented by precipitation, monitor the amount of moisture and the level of soil saturated with it.

Common mistakes

Even when acting with great love for plants, a gardener can ruin his efforts. And ignorance is to blame! So I present to your attention a few simple tips, compliance with which will bring you much closer to enjoying the fruits of your labor.

What kind of water should I use?

Be balanced. No need to water too hot or cold. You should also not do it under the scorching sun. Remember what happens to people on particularly hot days if they drink a lot cold water. Plants are living, and the same thing can happen to them.

What can't you do?
When it so happens that you have to water under the unbearably hot sun, under no circumstances pour water on the leaves. Afterwards, tiny droplets remain on them, which become a kind of lenses, attracting sunlight. Causes burns.
How much water do you need?
You should not douse the plant to the point of drowning. Make holes around its roots and pour water there. This method of watering is especially effective for consistently hot weather. One plant may need one glass of water, and sometimes two liters. Depends on the variety, condition and size of the plant and weather conditions.
Additional care
After the water dries, a crust forms in the watering areas, which does not allow air to reach the roots of the plant. She is very tough and her education definitely needs attention. Don't forget to loosen it.
What if I'm far away?
Sometimes you can come across the following scenario: a person who feels responsible for plantings, for example, at a dacha, arrives in the hottest sunshine, throws a hose under the plants, waters them with cold water, and then evaporates from the scene at the speed of the same moisture. Remember: you should absolutely not do this! It’s better to forget about watering, it will be more humane.

So, it remains to summarize:

Ideal watering is carried out in cool weather in a loosened hole around the stem, so that the water seeps immediately towards the roots. When mulching with leaves, compost, grass, yeast, etc. a crust does not form after drying.
When you haven't used mulch, be sure to loosen the soil the next day.
Summer rain rarely satisfies the needs of plants, and besides, it is not extremely useful. It is possible to use water from a well. Watering before it rains is also a good idea.
So you have learned how and when to water the plants on your site. These tips are simple, but following them you can see good results pretty quickly.

Watering the garden in a dry summer is the most important technique in the fight for the harvest.

Vegetable plants also have their spenders and economists. Based on the biological characteristics of the crops, my own capabilities and many years of observations, I established the following sequence and frequency of watering the beds.

Cucumbers and zucchini have an underdeveloped root system and spend a lot of moisture on the growth of vines and juicy fruits. Therefore, I water them with warm water every 1-2 days (and in severe drought - daily), spending 5-10 liters per square meter. In hot weather, they like to “drop their ears” even when there is sufficient soil moisture, then they are advised to take a light, warm shower during the day.

Peppers and eggplants– active “evaporators”, so they come second in line. Their roots are located shallowly in the soil; with a lack of moisture, the stems quickly become woody, the flowers and ovaries fall off, the fruits become smaller and the yield decreases. The watering rate per plant is 2-3 liters of water.

Cabbage- also a strong water drink. All its seedlings need to be watered abundantly until they begin to grow.

I pamper cauliflower and broccoli with water twice a week during the period when the heads are forming. Early cabbage needs intensive watering in June, late cabbage needs intensive watering at the end of July and in August at the stage of head formation. She also loves sprinkling.

All root crops of the family also need high soil moisture throughout the entire growing period. Brassicas: radish, radish, turnip, rutabaga. They have weak roots, but burdock leaves. Therefore, they absorb moisture from the soil poorly and spend it uneconomically.

Tomatoes They like a dry head, but wet feet. In order not to provoke the development of late blight with excessive humidity in the greenhouse, I water in the furrows between the rows. And I always remember that with even moisture, the fruits do not crack and are not affected by blossom end rot. In open ground, I water tomatoes only once when planting. By the way, tomatoes respond well to watering with cold water in hot weather.

Onions and garlic They weakly extract moisture from the soil, but use it sparingly, so if the summer is rainy, I don’t water them at all. In dry and hot weather, I do this once every 7-10 days, combining watering with fertilizing. A month and a half before the expected harvest (usually from mid-July), I stop watering the onions: excess moisture at this time delays the ripening of the bulbs.

Beet It is not very demanding when it comes to watering. Although it intensively consumes moisture, it extracts it well. Once a week I water only those that I plant seedlings for early production. Sown with seeds - only before thinning and after feeding, if there is no rain. The same goes for carrots.

Potato I water only early ones, planted with sprouted tubers. I pour water into the grooves. When the soil dries out a little, I loosen it on top and sprinkle it with peat or humus.

Pumpkin However, despite its impressive dimensions, it is capable of obtaining water for itself, so I water it only in childhood, before the first hilling. Withered leaves in extreme heat are its protective reaction.

Resistant to lack of moisture, heat and drought watermelon, melon, sweet corn, beans(except asparagus). I water them no more than two or three times a season, always combining watering with fertilizing.

Separate line
Cucumbers, cabbages, and green vegetables like sprinkling irrigation most of all, with the exception of salads (the “heart” rots and the leaves become dirty).

For vegetable crops, water temperature is of great importance. Often, even with sufficient watering, plants still suffer from lack of moisture.

This is explained by the fact that cold water in heat-loving vegetables reduces the suction power of the roots, which means its flow into the plants decreases. For them, the so-called physiological drought sets in.

Proven Tricks

After watering or rain, I always try to loosen the soil. But not immediately, but as soon as it begins to crumble well. I do this with a flat cutter; it’s convenient for picking up the roots of weeds without going too deep into the soil.

The main purpose of loosening is to break up the formed crust, thereby ensuring free access of oxygen to the root system. Meanwhile, this process is labor-intensive. To reduce it to a minimum, I use mulching where I can. For example, I fill a bed with garlic with leaves in the fall, but in the spring I don’t remove them, but leave them in the center of the bed. This significantly reduces the area of weeding and loosening and allows me to grow garlic without watering. I usually mulch other vegetables with humus mixed with garden soil and peat.

Separate line
Mulching the soil significantly reduces the need for watering, and the plants feel more comfortable.

Watering along with fertilizing

Mineral root dressings quickly act on plants. But if you give them often, the soil microflora gradually dies. Therefore, I use fertilizers carefully, never overdosing them, applying them only in liquid form (0.2-0.3% solutions) after watering or rain, and only when I think they are absolutely necessary.

I always alternate mineral fertilizers with organic ones.

This is how I prepare mineral fertilizer.

I dissolve 0.5 kg of highly soluble mineral fertilizer such as Kemira or brand B mortar in a plastic bucket (you can also take nitrophoska), preferably if they also contain microfertilizers. I pour it into a plastic barrel.

The day before feeding, I dilute 200 ml of the EM preparation in 1 liter of water, add a glass of old (not boiled) currant jam, let it sit until the next morning, and just before feeding, pour it into a barrel.

This solution can be used for both root and foliar feeding. I give preference to foliar ones, especially during periods of prolonged cold weather.

To prepare organic fertilizer, I take what is literally under my feet: nettle, dandelion, sow thistle, clover...

I chop the green mass with an ax and pour it into a plastic barrel, filling it 2/3. I fill it with water almost to the top and close the lid tightly so that nitrogen does not evaporate from the infusion. It is also believed that the infusion prepared without access to oxygen contains more beneficial microflora.

During the cooking process, it is advisable to open and stir the mixture at least once a day. If the weather is warm, the infusion is usually ready within a week. You can find out about this when fermentation stops: the liquid stops foaming.

In the first half of summer, almost all vegetable and fruit crops, as well as flowers, can be fed with this infusion. In the second half - only vegetables, the fruits of which are consumed immediately (as they contain nitrogen).

Almost all summer I water peppers and eggplants with the infusion, diluted in a ratio of 1:10. Cucumbers, zucchini, sweet corn and cabbage respond well to such feeding.

Before watering, I add ash or mineral fertilizers to the bucket with the infusion, the doses and quantities of which I adjust depending on what crop I will feed.

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As you know, you can’t live without water, especially for plants in your garden.

It is very important to comply water balance right now, when many plants are forming fruits. But nature these days is not very generous with rain, and it is extremely difficult for the inhabitants of gardens and vegetable gardens to survive the second dry summer in a row. They just need help, otherwise they won’t have to count on a high harvest.

10 rules for watering garden crops

1 Most plants do not like watering at the leaves, this leads to the spread of fungal diseases, so water at the root. If the soil is very dry, you must first sprinkle it with a little water and only when the first moisture has been absorbed, water it abundantly so that the water reaches the roots. At the same time, there should be no puddles on the surface.

2 In hot weather it is necessary to water more often, preferably in the evenings. Or early in the morning so that the moisture can be absorbed before the summer sun and wind evaporate it. During the day, in sunny weather, it is better not to water - drops on the leaves can create a lens effect: collect sun rays into the bun and cause burns. In addition, it is not very useful for people to work in the midday heat in the sun.

3 When it gets cold, you should water in the morning or in the middle of the day. Excessive evening watering will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the soil, and excessive dampness can cause the spread of fungal diseases.

4 You cannot water plants in small doses, as water evaporates from the soil surface without reaching the root system. It is better to water less often, but more abundantly. Weak moisture, if only the surface of the soil is wetted and the roots remain dry, is useless: only weeds will feel it. With a lack of moisture, especially during hot weather, plants do not absorb nutrients well, grow slowly, and fruit ovaries fall off. Keep in mind that short-term rain is not a reason to postpone watering: most often it only slightly wets the soil without saturating it with moisture.

5 But overmoistening is no less harmful. Remember that plants die more often from overwatering than from underwatering. Excessive watering leads to erosion of the soil, increasing its acidity; in highly moist soil, the roots rot, they are deprived of oxygen and lose the ability to deliver water and nutrients to the top. Dampness creates ideal conditions for the spread and development of diseases.

6 Seeds and seedlings require moisture in the top layer of soil, and rooted plants need deep moisture, which promotes good development of the root system. The more massive and longer the roots of a crop, the more abundantly it “drinks.”

7 A few hours after watering, to maintain moisture in the soil and access to oxygen, be sure to loosen it. Better yet, mulch the soil around the plants with humus, compost, grass clippings, straw, etc. If it is hot, you can scatter sawdust and peat on top of the ground in a layer of 3-5 cm, this will also prevent the evaporation of water. When watering and loosening the soil, do not allow the roots to be exposed or the root hairs to break.

8 The water temperature when watering should be 18-25 degrees. Plants love to be watered with water that has settled in a container and has been heated in the sun. The containers should preferably be black - in them the water heats up faster and is well saturated with oxygen in the evening. Young roots quickly die from cold water.

9 Pond, river, lake and, of course, rain water are suitable for irrigation. The main thing is that the water for irrigation is chemically pure (free from salts and chlorine). It is advisable to soften hard water with special additives.

10 The quality of the soil must be taken into account. On heavy clay or heavy loamy soils, watering should be done rarely, but abundantly, and a couple of times in a row so that the water goes deeper. Such soils are saturated with water slowly, but they “hold” it for a long time. Sandy ones, on the contrary, require frequent, but less abundant watering.

Water-bread cabbage and fussy tomato

Of all garden crops, cabbage is the most moisture-loving, of all types. This crop prefers cool water; early varieties need to be watered once a week (although it is better after 3-4 days), but always abundantly: the soil should be moistened to a depth of 40 cm. It is better to combine furrow irrigation with sprinkling. Late varieties have a stronger root system than early-ripening and colored ones, so they respond more easily to soil drying out. But for them, abundant regular (every 10 days) watering is mandatory. You can water all types of cabbage directly over the leaves. Lack of moisture during ripening leads to cracking of the heads of cabbage, but stagnation of water is also harmful, especially on heavy soils. It leads to the death of cabbage roots and its death.

Frequent watering is also necessary for radishes and radishes, lettuce, perennial vegetables(sorrel, rhubarb, perennial onions), greens (spinach, dill, celery, green onions).

Cucumber is also demanding of moisture, but at first do not water it too generously, but during flowering and fruiting, do not skimp on water. During drought, the cucumber drops its flowers and ovary and the fruits turn out ugly. Water the cucumbers in the evening or early morning and be sure to use warm water - no lower than 22 degrees.

If it is not possible to heat the water, then it is better to water during the day, so that the earth has time to warm up before sunset. On hot and dry days, when the cucumbers lose their leaves, it is useful to take a cool, refreshing shower at 15-17 hours. It is preferable to water cucumbers (as well as zucchini and squash) along the furrows and between the rows.

In the first stages of development, a tomato requires almost no watering. But with the appearance of ovaries and the beginning of fruit growth, the need for moisture, like that of a cucumber, increases; with its lack, tomatoes crack.

They say about tomatoes that they like a dry head, but wet feet. Therefore, firstly, you need to water them only at the root (in no case - at the leaves!), trying to concentrate the moisture in the depths, and leave the top layer dry. This can be achieved by mandatory loosening after watering. If you water tomatoes from above and too much, the risk of infection with late blight and other diseases increases. Tomatoes love morning watering, but evening watering, and even warm water, is harmful to them: after passing through the ground that has become hot during the day, the water reaches the roots almost like boiling water. As a result, tomatoes stop bearing fruit.

Cucumbers, tomatoes, as well as garlic, eggplants, and peppers love water, but use it sparingly; they can wait until you arrive at the dacha next weekend.

Beets, carrots, zucchini, potatoes, beans, rhubarb, and asparagus should be watered even less often - they do not tolerate waterlogging well.

The most drought-resistant crops are watermelon, melon, and pumpkin. They need to be watered rarely, but with plenty of water.

Young fruit trees It is better to water throughout the summer at intervals of 7-10 days. Fruit-bearing trees are watered at the beginning of flowering, 1-2 weeks after flowering (during the natural fall of the excess ovary) and 1.5-2 weeks before harvesting the fruits. Apricot, peach, and apple trees have the highest moisture requirements. Pears are less demanding; cherries, sweet cherries and plums need even less water.

Do not water the beds with a strong stream of water - it can wash away the soil, expose plant roots and deform leaves.
When excessive moisture persists for a long time, you should dig ditches or deepen furrows away from the plants to drain excess water.
If the plants are kept on a dry diet for a long time and then watered abundantly, the fruits grow quickly, but crack.
If you are not on the site for a long time, try installing a wick irrigation system there, as for indoor plants. Place containers of water at both ends of the bed. A wick made of fabric (preferably dense) is laid between them, which goes deep into the ground. This way the soil is constantly moistened.
You can organize constant watering in this way: pierce plastic one and a half or two liter bottles with an awl in the middle part, and leave 7-8 cm of the lower part intact and bury them in the soil, but not completely, and it is better to tie the neck with twine so that they can be easily removed in the fall pull out of the ground. Or you can use another method. Dig the bottles into the garden bed at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other, neck down. Make holes in the bottom part. Fill the bottles with water - it gradually moistens the soil, and at depth.
Another interesting method of watering is a hose that is pierced along its entire length. The hose is then buried in the garden bed. Connect it to the tap and watering is guaranteed. Irrigation occurs precisely at the root of the plant. Accordingly, the ground within a radius of 10 cm from each dropper remains dry. This helps reduce the growth of weeds and grass. And the walking paths don't get wet!
You can make various infusions in a barrel: from nettles, onion peels, banana scales, etc., the recipes can be very diverse. Many plants like such infusions.

Moisture Test

To water or not to water? To answer this question, test the soil... with your finger. Dip it into the soil around the plant several times. The top layer (2-3 cm) can be dry, but everything below should be damp.

You can also use the “mechanical method” by digging the bed on the bayonet of a shovel. If the soil is a solid sticky lump, it means that it contains excess moisture, slightly sticks to the shovel and can be squeezed into a lump with your hand - the humidity is optimal. When the soil does not stick to the shovel at all, and the lump crumbles into powder, this means that it is urgent to water.

Keep in mind that when there is a lack of moisture, plant leaves behave differently:

cabbage is covered with a white-bluish coating, its edges are bent;
Tomatoes acquire a dark green color;
carrots and cucumbers curl slightly and darken;
beets become smaller and become burgundy-violet in color;
The bow arrows look bluish-white.