A circular saw is used to cut wood.
Using a hand saw is not always comfortable; using a table allows you to make the sawing process smoother and more accurate.
The cutting base has a disc-like plane equipped with an outer edge with teeth. There are models not only of the manual type, but also with the ability to be fixed on the table.
It is difficult to work with large volumes of wood with a regular circular saw, so it is better to place it on a table
There are several ways to acquire the latter for ease of manipulation. You can build a table for a circular saw yourself, strictly following a certain pattern.
Table arrangement for a circular saw
The table is made taking into account the fact that the hand tool will be installed and secured on the table, thereby turning into stationary equipment
Construction with my own hands element allows you to make the saw most suitable for individual conditions. There will be no difficulties in the process if you carefully study the issue. You can adjust the product to the desired size, distribute everything so that it is convenient for you.
Making a table for a circular saw is within the capabilities of every craftsman.
A handcrafted model will be one of a kind, which makes it unique.
Small table stand for circular saw
Deciding on design and construction
The most simple option The table for the circular table is a structure made of fairly thick plywood and boards
The base can be made of wood or metal. Leaf tree species are chosen for the tabletop. A special hole should be made in it for the disk. The key property of the created table should be convenience.
Circular machine bed
Care should be taken to ensure its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will negatively affect safety. The tabletop should have as smooth a surface as possible. This will reduce the likelihood of injury while working.
A table for a circular saw requires the presence of guides
The structure can be supplemented with a special riving knife. He can be removed. It is equipped with a special disk protection that allows you to get rid of chips flying at the worker.
Table guide carriage for circular saw
Some people remove the factory cover and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you are not going to cut at an angle, you can remove the parts that adjust the tilt of the blade.
Drawings
Diagram for making a table for a circular saw
Before starting work, it is recommended to go through the preparatory stage. You should definitely make a drawing. This will make the design creation process easier. First, calculate the dimensions of the table, then transfer the data obtained to paper. The hole made in the structure must exactly match the dimensions of the saw. It all depends on the brand of equipment. Therefore, it is impossible to make a universal hole. The base must be stable and withstand mechanical loads well.
DIY table drawing for a circular table
It is unacceptable to overhang the structure to one side. The dimensions of the tabletop must be suitable for the sawing flow. The final option is determined based on individual desires. Some people work comfortably with a folding table or a product with small dimensions.
Drawing of a universal tabletop machine
The drawings should take into account important point. If you plan to leave tools or materials on the table while working, then the dimensions of the tabletop need to be increased to a square meter in area. A suitable size would be 120 by 120 cm. You should draw the drawing carefully and slowly in order to do everything correctly.
Table diagram for a circular table with a detailed description
Required materials
A homemade table can be made from wood
For such a table, wood, plywood or chipboard can be used. MDF and chipboard are also suitable. Some people prefer to choose steel or aluminum.
Steel plate table saw
It is not recommended to use plastic; it is completely unsuitable for a table of this purpose. If wood is chosen, then after completing the assembly the product should be treated with a special antiseptic composition. This will ensure reliable protection from moisture and will help avoid rotting.
To do saw table You need to prepare the materials yourself.
- Selected raw materials for the base. The thickness should be 21 mm.
- The timber required for the frame. Will do edged board 3 meters long with dimensions 50 by 150 mm. A total of 5 pieces are needed.
- Dowels made of wood with dimensions of 10 cm. At least 12 pieces.
- Wood glue.
- Metal fasteners in the amount of 4 pieces.
- Metal corners. 10 pieces are enough.
- Self-tapping screws.
These elements must be prepared in advance and placed near the workplace.
Required Tools
In addition to materials, you should prepare tools.
Among them:
- pencil and marker;
- measuring instruments including meter and tape measure;
- jigsaw;
- hand router;
- grinding machine;
- sandpaper (must have medium or fine grain);
- plane and drill;
- screwdriver
You need to prepare everything in advance and keep it on hand throughout the entire process.
Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions
Marking the place where the saw is attached to the table
Marking and fastening of stiffeners
Tabletop under circular saw in finished form
To make a quality structure, you need to follow some tips. The process consists of several steps presented in the table.
| Steps | Description |
| 1 | The block should be leveled on all sides using a plane. Then the frame of the future table is assembled from it. Several 5 mm holes need to be drilled in each side of the tabletop. Additionally, one through one is made for the legs of the product. |
| 2 | The drawers have several holes of the same diameter. In the legs one through one is made. The diameter remains the same, 5 mm. |
| 3 | Proceed to install the dowels into the tabletop. Before this, they are coated with wood glue. The legs and drawers are placed on top. If there are clamps with ties, the product should be secured using them. When the glue has completely dried, you need to fasten the drawers and legs using special metal fasteners. Additionally, it should be tightened with self-tapping screws. You can add reliability and strength to the structure by using corners. They will become an element of additional fastening and give the product stability. For the short side, 2 pieces are enough, and for the long side, 3 are suitable. |
| 4 | The next step involves securing the saw to the product from the inside. There are several methods to accomplish the task. M4 bolts or bars with self-tapping screws are suitable for fastening. The first case is fast and reliable. The second method does not require additional holes, which eliminates the need for drilling. You need to make a cut in bars, the width of which is equal to the dimensions of the saw platform. Next, self-tapping screws and bars on both sides fasten the equipment and the tabletop |
| 5 | After installing the saw, you will need another block larger size. It is secured to the base of the structure using self-tapping screws. Screwing is carried out on the marks made when setting the platform in a level position. These manipulations will help, when removing the saw, to return it usually quickly without searching for markings |
| 6 | The saw blade is installed in its proper place. The base is sawed to obtain a longitudinal hole. Then the product must be turned over |
| 7 | Then the production of the rip fence begins. Two strips are sawn off from the plywood. Their length should match the width of the table. On average, these dimensions are 10 cm. The corners should be rounded |
| 8 | The resulting strips are polished. They need to be fastened at an angle with self-tapping screws. A metal corner should be screwed inside |
| 9 | If you need to attach a stop to the base and the structure will be used frequently, you should attach the guide so that it is perpendicular to the disk. Attach the roller to the bottom. This will allow him to move. |
Attaching the legs to the table
Attaching the saw to the tabletop
Fixing the start button
The design is completed and ready for use. When performing the described manipulations, it is important to remember to follow safety precautions. This also applies to any manipulations with a circular saw.
Regularly check the position of the table and its strength. The structure must be stable, without loosening.
An example of a manufactured work table for a circular saw
Table version for hand-held circular saw with lifting mechanism
First make sure the saw is securely fastened, only then turn it on. Do not hold the cut material with your hands. This will help prevent wood from hitting your face when the knots start to bounce. Additionally, it is recommended to use special safety glasses when working.
For safety, be sure to wear safety glasses
Specified simple tips will help avoid injuries in the workplace.
Video: Table for a circular table made from scrap materials
For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine is time saving and work safety.
You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.
Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.
What is a circular saw for?
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a strong table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.
Circular for working with logs
Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.
Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.
It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.
Since such a stationary saw can work with small-sized workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the operator’s safety. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.
Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.
You won't miss in an accident
How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.
The frame can be made from metal corner(channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old ones water pipes, connecting them with corners.
Good option homemade frame made of rolled metal
IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.
Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. Upper part the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.
Stop for longitudinal sawing.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.
There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.
Another important parameter manual circular saw- this is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the site, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).
Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligned with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.
Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.
I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
It grabs the edges with a death grip.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from scrap furniture boards.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.
In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
A circular saw is a tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for country house or dachas. But work manual machine It’s not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.
A way out of this situation may be to make this device yourself. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.
Making a bed for a circular saw with your own hands is very simple. For production you will need the most regular lumber and quite a bit of time.
Before you think about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subjected. The main thing in the bed is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But you don’t need such a unit to use it yourself.
If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the bed can also be different.
First of all you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use choose equipment where the power parameters do not exceed 850 Watts. But, for example, when building a dacha or country house, it is often necessary to cut very large number wood
That is, more circular power is required. But experienced craftsmen do not advise buying saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase electricity costs.
The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed. For professional circular saws, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these frames are even concreted into the floor. Because vibration of the device can cause danger to life.
Technical features of circular machines
Depth of the proposed cut. The thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine depends on this parameter. This figure in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5 to 8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.
But working with logs on this machine will no longer be convenient. In addition, you need to take into account that this characteristic is reduced in a homemade saw. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if you provide in the table frame the ability to lower or raise the disk.
When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular saw to prepare building materials, then this figure may be less. If a clean and even cut is needed, then the rotation speed is needed quite high. This is needed, for example, for making furniture.
But even in this case, there are certain nuances. For cutting plastic materials This saw is not suitable. Due to very high tool speeds the disk is warming up, and the plastic begins to melt.
Therefore, it is better to choose a device where the rotation speed is no more than 4500 rpm; in this case, the bed for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional reinforcement of the table is not required.
Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel must be safe. This rule is even more important when the open part of the saw is located at the bottom of the tabletop.
In this design, it is best to place the panel with switches from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin directly assembling the table.
Making a circular saw with your own hands
The simplest version of the frame for a circular saw is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool is directly attached to the bottom of the stationary table top. A special slot is made in the table top for the saw.
The dimensions of the table can be changed according to how convenient it is for you to work on it. As an example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110−120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. You can also change the length of the tabletop according to your wishes.
If you plan to work with boards that are longer than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, changes must be made directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.
For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard; this material is not reliable enough.
Tools and materials for assembly
For a circular saw you need mandatory provide guides. They help cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from angle steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.
It is not advisable to attach stationary guides, since in the future you will not be able to change their position.
To build a table you will need the following materials:
- sheet of iron;
- plywood sheet;
- timber measuring 50×50 mm;
- board size 50×100 mm;
- steel corner for guides;
- two clamps;
- hand circular saw.
You also need to first prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:
- Screwdriver, electric drill.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Tools for measurements (tape measure, square, ruler).
- Hand cutter or milling machine.
When everything is prepared, you can begin assembling the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen assemble countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the design elements yourself. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.
Making a table top for a circular saw
Assembling the table begins with making the tabletop. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the lid are the same size as the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw.
The edge of the cut can be processed with a milling cutter, but this operation is not necessary. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.
Mark the bottom of the tabletop slot for circular circle. To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the seat.
With the help hand cutter choose bars to a depth of approximately 0.9−1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.
Then, when the seat is made, try the saw on and, if necessary, adjust the recess. Mark the slot locations for the circle and fixing the fasteners. If you need the circle to rise and fall, then you need install the pendulum mechanism for the countertop.
In this case, the slot must be made in the shape of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downward. Directly the frame for the lifting mechanism is best make from steel angles, which are welded to each other.
Making a table frame
The markings for fixing the transverse and longitudinal slats, which serve as stiffening ribs, are best installed on the underside of the tabletop. The planks themselves are made from timber. You will need:
- Two transverse parts, length equal to the width of the tabletop minus 7-9 cm on each side.
- Two longitudinal ribs, the size equal to the length of the lid minus 7-9 cm on each side.
Then you need make sockets for self-tapping screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.
The first fastener should be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached to the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the wood.
First, the transverse ribs are secured. In order for the table top to be as strong as possible, the edges of the slats must first be apply wood glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.
Allow the tabletop to dry completely. Afterwards, the longitudinal slats are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together, installing two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.
Attaching the legs (supports)
The table legs are made of timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the tabletop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg goes down to an angle from below. So, the area of the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of the top.
It is best to secure the legs using steel corners. They need to be pressed a little so that the base of the machine is in the “spacer”. This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners; they are secured with their heads facing outward. Otherwise, during work you can be injured by the protruding parts of the fasteners.
The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are tightened with diagonal slats. They are attached in pairs on each side of the machine.
Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is attached to self-tapping screws. At the very end, the instrument is attached directly to the prepared place.
On the table top you can make additional markings, it will help you cut wood smoothly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the table legs. That's all, your DIY circular saw is ready.
It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.
So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.
In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
There are various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point mounting (front and rear) | Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting necessary position stop and with frequent readjustment is a significant drawback. |
| Single point mounting (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure. |
| Fastening in the groove of a circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal). |
In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.
Preparing for work
Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or you can use.
- Screwdriver.
- Grinder (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
During the work you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Solid pine.
- Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Wood glue.
Design of a circular saw stop
The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.
The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part;
- Clamp
- Eccentric handle
Making a circular saw
Preparation of blanks
A couple of points to note:
- Planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.
It is better to do this by drilling, but you can also simply hammer it with a nail.
The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.
As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.
We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Transverse part of the guide
Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.
Upper transverse clamping bar
Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.
The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.
With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.
Assembling the entire transverse part
Longitudinal part of the guide
The entire longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.
The base of the longitudinal part
We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Installation of the eccentric
Installing the guide
It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.
... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.
Video
Video on which this material was made.