Recently, houses made of logs and beams, the so-called log houses, have come back into fashion. In this article we will tell you about some of the nuances of their construction. But before you ask yourself questions: what kind of wood to make a log house from, how to put a log house on the foundation, what to impregnate the wood with, etc., decide whether you are confident in choosing just such a house?
The main difficulty is to install wooden house It’s not at all easy and it’s better to entrust this work to professionals.
A log house has a great many advantages; after all, this type of housing served our ancestors for hundreds of years, which is already an indicator of its quality. The first thing that catches your eye is the aesthetic beauty it possesses. Even small country house made of wood will give a bright ancient Russian flavor to the entire area. It will attract increased attention from both passers-by and neighbors, and will provide an opportunity to have a wonderful rest in unity with nature. In addition, wood is an environmentally friendly material with good heat capacity.
What kind of breed should you give preference to when building a log house? There are many options, the main condition is the strength of the wood. It is equally important that the price suits you. Based on the price/quality criterion, best choice are conifers: larch and pine. But you can use oak, birch, linden and some other species. No less important is the choice of the diameter of the logs for the future home. The fact is that you need to choose a material with a diameter of 20 to 26 cm. Logs that do not fit into these criteria are not suitable. Pay attention to the quality of the logs: there should be no crooked or disease-damaged specimens among them. The diameter must be the same throughout the entire length of the workpiece. These are just the most general requirements that the future builder needs wooden house. But the issue of erecting a log house has not yet been considered.
Return to contents
Foundation preparation
But let’s move on to the main questions of the article: how and on what foundation to install a log house and what do you need to know?
The installation of such a building on a foundation differs depending on whether it consists of logs or timber. The construction of log walls of a log house results in a displacement between the longitudinal and transverse logs by half the diameter, and the timber is laid without any displacement. This requires certain changes from the foundation. Under the log walls, it will either be of varying heights or be padded under 2 of the 4 sides of the house.
When constructing, you need to know a number of terrain parameters: soil freezing depth, level groundwater, soil characteristics, expected load, etc.
Before installing the walls of the house, it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface. To do this, a layer of pre-prepared cement mortar 2-3 cm thick is applied to the base. This layer is carefully leveled using a level. Some experts advise additionally covering this layer with a thin (about 4 mm) layer of cement paste and smoothing it just as thoroughly. The last operation will increase the stability of the structure and the tightness of the fit of the lower crown of the frame to the foundation.
For waterproofing, the surface of the prepared foundation is covered with 2 layers of roofing material, and if the level of soil moisture in the area is high, then 3 layers of insulating material are laid at once. The joints of the roofing felt should be overlapped, with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the edges of the waterproofing above the base should hang down by about 2-3 cm. In ancient times, birch bark was used as a waterproofing coating.
Return to contents
Laying antiseptic boards
The next layer will be special antiseptic boards laid on the waterproofing. These boards are usually impregnated with a bitumen primer; in the old days, before bitumen was used, pine resin was used for this purpose. These boards are necessary to evenly redistribute the load of the log house on the foundation and fill the gap between the foundation and the casing.
If the boards are 25-30 cm wide, they should have a thickness of at least 40 mm. It is from such boards that an additional lining is made between the transverse and longitudinal walls, if they are made not from timber, but from logs. The boards must be well connected to each other, because cold and damp air will penetrate into the subfloor through the gaps between them.
Return to contents
Installation of a log house on the foundation
A layer of hemp or tow is laid on top of the laid lining boards, on which the first row of logs is installed - the frame crown. On top of it, you need to once again lay out a heat-insulating layer of tow, felt or hemp (in the old days, dried moss was used). It is extremely important to fill all grooves and surfaces tightly to avoid voids and cracks.
After these operations, the actual assembly of the house begins. To do this, the logs must be aligned with the marks applied to them, which were applied after the initial log assembly. That is, the log house is assembled, each log is marked with special signs and then dismantled. They place it again on the already prepared foundation. The marks can be as varied as the master wishes. They usually look like this: S-1, V-5, Yu-38. The letters represent the cardinal directions: north, south, west and east. And the number means the serial number of the log in the wall below. Moreover, the connection to the cardinal directions is completely arbitrary; south denotes the front side of the house, north the back side, east the right side, and west the left side.
A second one is placed on the framed crown, into which logs are cut from the inside; they will serve as the basis for the future floor of the room. The following crowns are often divided into 3 parts, window-sill, window and above-window, depending on their location relative to the windows.
The log house needs to drain sediment, and for this, a groove is created on the outside of the frame crown, into which the drain board is inserted. It should protrude beyond the border of the base by about 5 cm. It is usually made from a wooden board, but it is quite possible to use a sheet of stainless metal or plastic.
The installation of a log house on the foundation determines the durability, safety and aesthetics of the appearance of a wooden building (house or bathhouse), along with the quality of the wood and its processing. If the log house is correctly installed on the foundation, then the building will delight you with its appearance for many years. The installation technology has its own standards that are mandatory. Only by adhering to them can you get a reliable bathhouse.
Mandatory preparatory work
The very first thing that must be done to install a log bathhouse is to prepare the foundation surface. First of all, it is necessary to ensure the foundation is waterproofed. Groundwater can soak into the foundation, which can lead to rotting of the lower part of the frame. For waterproofing, roofing material is used, which is spread in a double layer over the foundation. It is recommended to combine this waterproofing method with a coating method. To do this, bitumen mastic must be applied to the surface, and roofing material must be laid on it. In addition, treat the inside and bottom sides of the frame crown with bitumen mastic. Such actions will prevent rotting of the log house for a long time.
When laying the floor, you do not need to nail the boards directly to the joists. When the structure shrinks, the joist may twist due to drying, which can cause deformation of the board nailed to it. Floor boards will shrink as they naturally dry, resulting in gaps that will be much easier to eliminate if the boards are not nailed down. It is recommended to lay boards of the required size on the joists and nail only 2: the first and the last. In the process of finishing the log house of the bathhouse, you will be able to reupholster the floors (eliminate the cracks that appeared from drying) if you use this technology for laying boards. In addition, it will be possible to make a subfloor and insulate it without causing damage to the board.
Return to contents
Basic installation rules
Use moss as inter-crown insulation. It must be laid when it is still damp. Moss is placed between the logs. Thanks to humidity, it is able to compact well, which is very important for uniform shrinkage of the bath and filling the grooves as tightly as possible. In addition, moss is a natural antiseptic that can prevent logs from rotting. Use tow to caulk the bathhouse, but avoid using it as inter-crown insulation.
The gables are sewn up immediately upon installation.
Thanks to this, the wind will not blow moisture into the bathhouse during its construction. Otherwise, there is a very high risk of mold or mildew appearing on the logs.
Installing a bathhouse also involves installing a roof. In this case, you can use any roofing material, since the shrinkage of the structure will not affect the roof in any way. It is also possible to install a temporary roof, for which roofing felt will be used. This will allow you to postpone the installation of a permanent roof if you have not yet decided on the material for it.
Windows and doors are cut only after shrinkage. Making openings in advance can lead to uneven shrinkage of the bathhouse frame and to its deformation. The width of the doorway that will be used during the installation of the log house should be 50 cm, and the height should correspond to 5-6 logs. In the future, a doorway will be cut in place of this hole. It is not recommended to buy windows and doors in advance, since during finishing you can change your plans and the ordered materials will not suit you.
When laying the first crown of the log house, slats treated with an antiseptic compound are laid on the prepared foundation. Why is this necessary? And is it possible to put metal plates in place of the slats?
Answer to the question
The options for foundations have similarities. The difference is that cutting log walls using these methods results in a shift of the longitudinal and transverse logs by 50% of the diameter relative to each other.
Therefore, it is necessary to make preparations for building a foundation from logs with uneven sides or use additional lining for both sides of the log house.
How should the foundation be prepared?
To prepare you will need:
- Cement mortar
- Ruberoid or roofing felt
- Linings made of antiseptic boards.
Before proceeding with the installation of the log house, it is necessary to prepare the upper part of the foundation - the base. First, the base is treated with a layer of cement mortar 2-3 centimeters thick, and it must be well leveled in the horizontal direction. It is also recommended to “harden” this layer, that is, treat it with a layer of pure cement dough 3-4 millimeters thick, after which it is well leveled.
After the base has dried, two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt are placed on top, and if the soil is damp, it is better to make three layers. The joint between the layers should overlap each other by 10-15 centimeters, and their edge should hang about 2-3 centimeters above the base.
Next, on all sides of the base, on a layer of waterproofing, you need to put boards covered with an antiseptic solution, 4-5 centimeters thick and 20-30 centimeters wide. When a log house is made of logs, with the help of additional linings from such boards, the displacement of the longitudinal and transverse logs is compensated. When the supporting elements are not taken whole, they must be joined together very clearly. There should be no gaps between them, as this will allow cold air to enter the underground.
Installation of a log house on the foundation
The installation of a log bathhouse is described in detail in the video:
Hemp or tow is placed on the finished foundation on top of the backing elements, after which the trim crown is laid. Then a layer of heat-insulating seals for the grooves is placed on the trim crown, using tow, moss, hemp or felt. It is very important to ensure that there are no breaks or empty spaces in the thermal insulation layer.
Then the log frame is assembled according to the marks applied to the logs during its initial felling. The assembly of a timber frame is carried out by laying the first crown assembled “in half a tree”, and all other crowns are placed “in half a tree”, “in a dressing with a root tenon” or “on dowels”.
In order to drain precipitation in the frame or in the second crown along the outside of the frame, it is necessary to select a groove into which you need to insert a drain board, under which supports are also mounted - boards with beveled edges. According to the rules, the edge of the drain board departs from the edge of the base by at least 5 centimeters. The drain board can be replaced with iron sheets, aluminum, plastic and others. However, it is not recommended to use metal sheets instead of backing boards, since there is a high probability of condensation accumulation.
Wood being environmentally friendly clean material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.
To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.
Stage 1. Preparation of round timber
Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will consider below.
Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.
In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include the round shape and degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.
Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.
The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.
Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for a bathhouse. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.
Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.
Stage 2. Timber processing
Step 1. After the consumables have been delivered to you (or you have cut them and delivered them yourself), they need 25-30 days to rest.
Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.
Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.
Video - Preparing logs
Stage 3. Construction of the foundation
Let’s immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:
- strip foundation;
- columnar.
Let's consider each of the options.
To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.
Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.
Video - Pouring the foundation
Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.
Columnar foundation
If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:
- brick;
- from asbestos pipes.
Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.
Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.
Stage 4. Waterproofing the base
Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.
Stage 5. Preparing tools
To work you will need the following equipment:
We will pay special attention to the last tool - the “line”. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.
Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse
There are several assembly technologies:
The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.
Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). The logs that will serve as the frame crown should be edged to ensure a tight fit to the foundation.
Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.
Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections during the construction of log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.
You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.
Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.
Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.
Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.
Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.
Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).
Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:
- square dowels;
- round dowels made of wood.
The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.
Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion after shrinkage, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.
Step 6. Raising the walls to the desired height, lay ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.
In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.
Video - Roof made of aspen shingles
Stage 7. Doors and window openings
We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.
Stage 8. Caulking logs
After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:
- hammer;
- caulk (made of wood or metal).
Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.
Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.
You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.
Video – Caulk of a log house
Stage 9. Roof
As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.
Step 1. Lay on wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).
Step 2. Fix the beams and attach rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.
Step 3. Nail a solid board deck to the rafters (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).
Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.
Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.
An example of a log house with a shingle roof 
- Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, joints in the lower rim are not allowed.
- When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can assemble the logs before drying by placing a sealant between them.
- It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.
Now you know how to buildDIY log house.
For the construction of any building, the foundation has always been one of the main components requiring special attention during design and especially during construction. The bathhouse is no exception to this, but unlike a residential building or a car garage, the specificity of the foundation for a bathhouse is manifested in several questions at once - what it should be like, how it should be built, and of course, how to put the bathhouse on the foundation. It will be possible to decide on these and other issues by taking a deeper look at all the features of installing a bathhouse on a foundation, from the choice of material for work to the specifics and sequence of work.
A few words about materials for building a bathhouse
When working on a bathhouse construction project, the materials from which the walls are planned to be built play an important role in the calculations. A traditional log house, like a log house made of timber, is relatively light in weight - such buildings most often do not require the construction of massive foundations. For wooden structures they can also be successfully used. strip foundations, And monolithic slabs and even pile foundations from steel pipes.
Baths, the construction of which is planned from brick, blocks, sandstone or foam concrete, must be provided with a massive foundation, because the structure will have an impressive weight. But for buildings that are planned to have a swimming pool inside, you will still have to make calculations for the foundation, because here you need to take into account the loads and swelling of the soil and the characteristics of groundwater with the quality of the soil itself under the building.
In any case, regardless of what buildings you plan to build, when laying the foundation you need to:
- Ensure the rigidity of the foundation structure;
- Maintain the correct geometry of the sides, proportions and dimensions of the base;
- When pouring a concrete foundation, you should ensure that the pouring surface is as horizontal as possible, without distortions.
Surface preparation
For concrete, masonry or concrete block foundations, it is important to check the surface for slope before starting to build walls. Distortion, deflection or bending of the upper surface of the foundation threatens further subsidence of the building, deformation brickwork and the formation of cracks between the logs of the log house crowns.
Checking the foundation level is done using a regular bubble level or a hydraulic level. The check is carried out along the entire perimeter of the foundation, including pouring under the walls, but more attention is paid to the sections under the external and load-bearing walls.
If large differences are detected, and differences of 5 cm or more are considered large, leveling is carried out using cement mortar. In order for the mortar layer to be as even as possible and at the same time have greater strength, reinforcement is used metal mesh or fiberglass mesh.
For differences less than 1 cm, leveling cement mortar do not do this, with such a layer of mortar, even with a 1:1 ratio of cement and filler, the layer will be unstable and may simply crumble.
For a bathhouse, as for other buildings made of natural wood, it is important to ensure not only the correct surface geometry, but also to create a reliable barrier against moisture penetration into the wood fibers. The water barrier between the foundation and the wall should provide maximum protection for the wall and at the same time be strong and durable. The most simple view the hydrobarrier may be a layer of roofing material. For baths, a multi-layer roofing material hydrobarrier is usually made from timber or logs. Roofing felt sheets are laid in 2-3 layers, and for better fixation with each other, bitumen mastic is used. The edges of the canvases at the joints must overlap each other with an overlap of 20-25 cm; butt laying is not allowed.
In addition to laying a hydrophobic layer to protect the wood from fungal attack and moisture penetration, all surfaces of the foundation located above the ground are additionally treated with a primer and a water repellent. The primer allows you to reliably plug the pores and microcracks of concrete, and the water repellent will ensure the water-repellent properties of the fill.
Installing the crown on the foundation
A special feature of the stage of installing the crown on the foundation is the need to strictly observe all the dimensions and proportions of the first log of the log house, and to accurately and consistently carry out all work related to the order of laying the boards on top of the waterproofing layer.
When preparing the foundation, it is recommended to simultaneously treat the boards that will be laid immediately on top of the waterproofing with an antiseptic. Such treatment can be using single-component or multi-component wood impregnations. When using a one-component composition, it is recommended to carry out treatment in 2-3 layers; multi-component complex impregnation can be applied once. Immediately after laying the waterproofing layer, the side of the board that is planned to be laid on the foundation is additionally treated with bitumen mastic and installed in place. The boards are installed along the entire perimeter of the foundation; for a more durable structure, it is recommended to use a locking connection of the boards with additional fixation with metal plates and self-tapping screws. Just like the foundation, the surface of the board should be horizontal and as level as possible.
For a stronger and more durable foundation for a log house, it is recommended to use larch, pine or spruce; coniferous trees, if properly processed, can last for decades.
The next step will be the installation of the first crown. For prefabricated structures, ready-made baths, the installation of the first layer of logs is carried out according to the markings and in accordance with the instructions. It makes no big difference which side to start installing the logs from; it is important that all elements are installed correctly in accordance with the layout plan. Just like between the crowns, a sealant is placed between the log and the first layer of logs. It is important that the sealant is dry and placed strictly in the middle of the board. Fixing the seal with a stapler will make it easier to install the log and will not allow the seal to move when adjusting the location of the log.
To correctly lay the logs so that the locks are as strong and correct as possible, first the logs are laid on the opposite sides of the building, and then the lock connections are then laid to them.
In standard ready-made sets baths for self-assembly The marking of logs is done in the form of alphanumeric codes, which indicate:
- The letter part “YU”, “S”, “Z”, “V” – cardinal directions;
- The digital part is the serial number of the crown, starting from 1 - the first crown laid on the substrate.
Installing the first crown for a bathhouse with a wooden floor requires that the substrate - a board laid on the foundation inside the log house - extend 7-10 cm. For a board 25-30 cm wide and 40 cm thick, this distance is enough to use such a spade to install the logs flooring
You can mark the position of the first crown on the backing by marking in advance the middle of the board, the distance to the log from the outside and from the inside at the end of the backing. Next, lay the rounded log simply focusing on the marks on the end.
Installed crown in mandatory checked for compliance with geometric proportions and angles. The measurement must be done not only with a square to check the corners, but also with a cord to align the diagonals of the log house. The measurement is made along the lines drawn in the middle of the log. This method most correctly shows both the angle of connection of the logs and the size of the diagonals.
Attention! For modern structures made of rounded logs, it is important that all communications to the bathhouse are laid before the construction of the walls begins. Entry of communications into the building through walls is permitted provided that the opening is treated with an antiseptic and additional elements made of plastic corrugation are used.
Construction of walls and use of metal fasteners
Installing a log house on the foundation does not end with laying just the first crown. The structure, despite some rigidity, is still very vulnerable to deformation, which is why it is recommended to fix the position of the first crown using staples. The staples are driven vertically into the corners of the building by 3-4 cm for fixation; instead of staples, you can use boards and nails or metal plates with holes for self-tapping screws.
In some types of log houses, the installation kit includes wooden or metal dowels for connecting logs together. The instructions must clearly state how this fastener should be used. For corner joints, galvanized steel corners and self-tapping screws with a protective coating are most often used.
The structure of a complex shape, with several walls, is fixed with brackets at the corners, except for the side on which the first log of the second crown of the log house is laid. Next, the staples are carefully removed and the opposite log is installed.
In finished sets of log houses, the logs of the first crown may have grooves placed in advance during processing. This is an important element of the bathhouse design; when laying a log house, it should be on the outside; the main purpose of the groove is to install metal profile for drainage of sediments. The profile is installed in place when the work on constructing the walls and installing the roof is completed, and it is recommended to additionally treat the outer surface of the log and the substrate with a wood primer and a water repellent for wood to protect against moisture penetration.
Tying crowns together finished projects is carried out through the holes by installing dowels or anchor bolts in them, available in the kit of materials. When preparing and assembling yourself, there is enough space between the holes to be 70-80 cm. After installing the bolts, and the bolts are installed flush, the bolt head is closed with a wooden plug or sealed with resin mastic, which reliably protects the metal from corrosion.
For the first crown, small bolts and dowels are used; here it is important that they do not damage the waterproofing layer, but the first crown and the second are connected with bolts or dowels of normal size.