This is a lockstitch machine with a shuttle swinging in a horizontal plane. Execution option - with manual drive. It is found quite often and is even in good condition, despite the fact that the car has served a person for more than fifty years.
There is also a domestic similar machine “Gosshveymashina”, which was produced by PMZ in the past. It also occurs in the population. In general, there are many varieties of machines of this type. Let's look at the most typical faults for one brand and, using its example, how to eliminate them.
Rice. 120. Upper thread tension regulator (Singer machine):
a) let’s assume that the regulator washers are either rusty, homemade, or not there at all. It is necessary to grind the working convex surface of the washers 4 , where the thread passes and is clamped. Sand with first medium-grit sandpaper, then fine-grit sandpaper. If homemade washers are supplied, replace them with modern washers from the Chaika or Podolsk machine. There should be no gap between serviceable washers, folded together with their convex sides. Warped washers cannot be installed;
b) it is possible that the compensation spring is broken or does not exist at all. Here, first of all, you need to disassemble the regulator by turning out the axis 3 . If part of the spring 2 preserved inside the regulator, throw it away. The metal has become brittle and when you try to make a thread hook, it breaks. Spring 2 install a new one, you can take it from the same machines that the washers came from. Remove the support ring from the regulator 8 , attached at the bottom with one screw, and cancel. Now, to support the compensation spring, adapt the lower ledge in the tidal semi-ring 10 machine body. File the ledge on top with a triangular file so that the end of the spring fits into the channel and cannot freely jump off the support ( ).
Compensation spring 2 can be made to work on release. It is placed on the left side of the regulator and works from bottom to top. The tension should be light. Last coil of spring 2 make it in the form of a small ring so that the narrow part of the regulator axis with thread fits into it. This ring-shaped coil secures the spring. Some machines have a release washer 5 , a release pusher inside the regulator axis, and inside the front cavity there is a release lever operating from the presser foot lifting mechanism. If the release lever does not work well, moisten it with a mixture of I8A oil and solvent No. 647 (ratio 1:1).
After operating the release lever by hand for 5 minutes, it will work well. The same can be done with the presser foot shaft. It often hangs in the bushings due to the small stroke during operation, the accumulation of dirt and dried oil on it, especially under the coil spring. On some machines, the described spinning of washers is not provided for by design. The spin is carried out by a specially installed release lever 11 on the regulator, which is activated by a finger. A lever is placed in front of the conical spring;
V) A particular difficulty is caused by the absence of a pressure nut on the regulator. Unscrew the regulator axle and turn the nut along the threads on the axle (made by a lathe). Cutting the thread on M6 is dangerous, you can break the horn;
G) if the thread on the regulator axis is broken, take the regulator axis from the “Chaika”-3 class, “Chaika”-2, 2M class machine. and cut an M5 thread on the supporting end. Cut a thread in the machine hole with an M5 tap and install a new axle;
d) If the horn of the regulator axis is broken off, you can weld it. It is necessary to place a calibrated plate 2.1 mm thick into the slot and screw on the nut. It is better, of course, to install a new axle.
Rice. 121.
A plate spring of two branches is screwed onto the top of the shuttle with an adjusting screw. Often a thin branch is broken off and the shuttle works with one wide main branch. The task of the leaf spring is to press the lower shuttle thread. Its tension is adjusted with a screw. At the site of the second branch breaking off, dull the sharp edge with a diamond flat file, otherwise the upper thread may break.
Shuttle repair:
A) hand-turn leaf spring 3 from a steel plate with a thickness of 0.4-0.3 mm that is easy to machine.
The time to grind the plate is about two hours. Draw the contours of the leaf spring with the old one, first anneal it over low heat and straighten it, making it flat; Drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm on the workpiece for the adjusting screw. Align the holes with the old spring, lock them together with a screw and nut, then copy the outline with a sharp needle. This work is painstaking, responsible, and you should not rush to complete it;
b) from many years of work on the shuttle 2 where the thread comes out, a groove is formed. Abrasive microparticles are introduced into the threads from the air with dust. When the thread passes under the pressed plate, the abrasive dust does its destructive work. The same groove (groove) is formed on the plate. For this reason, a plate pressed to the limit cannot slow down the thread. As a result, the stitching turns out to be of poor quality - the bottom thread goes to the top of the fabric and loops. To eliminate the groove on the shuttle, use a diamond file to cut off a flat area until the groove completely disappears, and make a small convex inward on the plate. Do this work like this. Leaf spring 3 place on the edge of a wooden stand with the groove down. Place the non-sharp end of a screwdriver across the plate from above and lightly hit it with a hammer. The plate will bend a little and will press the thread well;
V) It happens that after many years of work, the tip of the shuttle not only became dull, but also became so worn that it took on the shape of a convexity. As a result, the thread gets stuck on the convex section of the shuttle and breaks. You can remove the bulge on the shuttle to a straight line using a mechanical emery stone as shown in Figure 122.
Rice. 122.
The difficulty of sawing lies in the taper of the grinding surface 0 1 -0 2. The length of the treated surface should have the shape of a truncated cone. After grinding, remove rough strips with a diamond file. Sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper, then use a mechanical felt grinding wheel impregnated with GOI paste (sand the surface to a mirror finish). The time spent on work will be approximately 30 minutes;
G) After many years of work, a chip may appear in the end part of the shuttle, to which the thread clings when exiting the shuttle and is cut off. Grind it smoothly upward. If the shuttle is rusty, sand it using a felt wheel. The main task of the shuttle is to jump through the overlapping loop of the upper thread without delay. And this is only possible with a perfectly polished surface. Dirt, fuzz from threads and fabric accumulate in the shuttle, as a result of which the bobbin does not rotate well and the lower thread may break. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically clean the shuttle inside.
- The part in which the shuttle lies is called the carriage. The base of the carriage is inserted into the groove and screwed with one screw. The type of fastening, frankly speaking, is not very strong and reliable. For this reason, the flywheel cannot be set to high speed. But machines of the Singer type also operate with a nanodrive, where the danger of increasing the flywheel speed increases.
In terms of malfunctions, the carriage comes first:
A) part of the back plate that lines the carriage has broken off. Start the repair by preparing the broken part. To do this, knock out the rivet located on the back of the carriage, place a part of the prepared plate of the appropriate configuration on the carriage and secure it with a nail with a diameter of 1.5 mm with a round head (bite off the excess part of the nail with pliers and make it in the form of a rivet). The rear of the carriage ( ) tilt back 100°, and be sure to tilt the top in the direction the thread is running (this operation applies to all carriages of machines of this type).
If the above slopes are absent, the upper thread will break;
b) if there is no lining plate in the carriage, it can be made from steel foil, the thickness of which is 0.2-0.25 mm ( );
V) if the thread in the carriage is torn off, cut a new larger thread and make a screw with a wide head and a short threaded part equal to 4 mm for it. Screw thread from M4 to M5 (decide locally);
G) If the side stopper 6 of the shuttle is broken off in the structurally lightweight carriage 3, it can be soldered with a wire in the form of a loop, the length of which is 7 mm and the thickness is 0.5 mm. You can use a piece of wire from the compensation spring. This device works great. Soldering should be done with tin. In order to tilt back the rear part 4 of the structurally lightweight carriage, it is necessary to preheat it to a crimson color. After bending it 100° and sawing the inside in the direction the thread runs down, it is also necessary to heat the front part of the carriage and bend it towards the rear part as much as the rear part 4 is bent - this will maintain the dimensions of the carriage for the shuttle.
Rice. 123. The location of the needle in the needle vertical groove of the platform (Singer machine):
Remove the needle plate, remove and disassemble the needle bar. Anneal the end of the needle bar where the needle is attached in a flame and put the needle bar in place. Place the needle and secure it. Raise the needle bar to the highest end position using the handwheel. On the left side, place a triangular file on the needle bar with its edge and hit it lightly with a hammer 2-3 times. The end of the needle bar should bend slightly to the right and bring the needle level with inner surface the arc along which the shuttle slides during operation. This bending of the end of the needle bar is necessary. Without bringing the needle to the shuttle at a distance of 0.2-0.1 mm, skipping stitches in the line is inevitable. Annealing the end of the needle bar for five minutes is necessary. Without it, breakdowns of this very thin part of the rod occur. A hardened steel needle bar cannot withstand bending without annealing.
- If there are now skipped stitches in the line, use a screwdriver to slightly bend the carriage upwards. You can and should bend the carriage under various circumstances.
Bend the front part of the carriage like this:
1 ) if there are skipped stitches in a line, fold it up;
2 ) when the shuttle or carriage touches the valve, bend it down;
3 ) When the teeth touch the lifting lever, bend it upward. Bend the rear end of the carriage like this:
A) when touching the valve - down;
b) if the top thread breaks - down or up (it is necessary to experimentally find the optimal position of this part of the carriage);
V) if the bottom thread breaks, go down.
If the upper or lower threads break, in addition to all the measures listed above, check the entire area of passage of the shuttle (carriage) for the presence of burrs and sharp protrusions. On the machine body, on the rack (especially on its right side), on the slides, on the carriage and on the shuttle, smooth, blunt and sand all sharp irregularities on which the thread may cling.
The moment the hook nose meets the needle when it moves from the lowest position should occur 3.5-4 mm above the needle eye. If the shuttle with the carriage knocks on the valve, bend the carriage lower (a FORCED measure!) to eliminate the knocking. Unscrew the screw that fixes the needle bar level, loosen the second screw on the right, and lower the needle bar to a height at which the hook meets the needle 3.5-4 mm above its eye. Firmly tighten the second screw on the right onto the needle bar mounting part. Now the remaining one screw (as on the “Gosshveymashina”) will ensure the stability of the needle bar level, since we were forced to remove the left screw, which rigidly blocked the needle bar with the part (it is better to move it lower with a stop under the slide) ( ).
Rice. 124.
(Singer machine with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):
If, when sewing, for example, leather, the needle bar gets knocked down, loosen its fastening screw on the part and place foil under the rod in one layer 0.2 mm thick. The width of the foil strip is 5 mm. Tighten the screw firmly with a 125 mm long screwdriver. A longer screwdriver may break parts. This measure will ensure the strength of the clamp.
- Place the needle plate in place and secure it with the screw.
It may happen that the needle touches the right side needle plate holes. As a result, the gap between the needle and the hook will increase, and skipping stitches may occur in the stitching. In this case, remove the plate and file off 0.5 mm on the right side of the needle hole where the edge touches the needle. File with a round diamond file. The needle should not touch the sides of the needle plate hole.
- The teeth of the fabric conveyor are dull from many years of work.
Remove the rack and sharpen the teeth with a triangular diamond file. The teeth are slanted backwards, so sharpen the front side of the tooth. Sharpening time is no more than 2 minutes.
Release the presser foot spring. To do this, unscrew the upper pressure threaded bushing so that the foot pressure is very moderate (within 0.5 kg). Strong pressure of the presser foot on the fabric collects it, causing wear on parts and creating a heavy machine. It is better to disassemble the foot shaft and clean it of centuries-old deposits with sandpaper. Dirt collects on the rod under the coil spring and films from many years of grease, fraying from threads and fabric are deposited - all this interferes with the free and easy movement of the rod in the spring.
- Play in connections should be minimal. If it is large, bring it back to normal. It is barely noticeable by hand and barely audible.
The shuttle in the carriage should have a play of about 0.5 mm. If it is larger, move the carriage to the left towards the shuttle. If it is less (and the thread slips through with difficulty at the beginning or end of the shuttle), move the carriage away. If it is impossible to move the carriage, a backlash of 0.5 mm can be achieved by bending (bending) the front or rear part of the carriage in a horizontal plane. If you bend it, it is better to use the rear wall of the carriage.
Eliminate play in the levers under the platform using clamping screws. Eliminate shuttle play on the crankshaft using a screw located on the vertical lever on the rear side of the machine. To see the required screw, you need to open the round hole on the back right side (it will be visible in the foreground). Turn the screw 2-3°, as it greatly affects the backlash of the parts.
- Bobbin winding mechanism.
Due to many years of operation, the rubber roller of the winder mechanism does not provide reliable adhesion to the flywheel. Two procedures need to be done. Replace the rubber roller. In the place where the winder mechanism is hinged to the eye of the machine, replace the disc spring, if it is provided and is worn out; if it is not provided for by the design, file the eye 0.5 mm in the plane of movement of the winder and install a disc spring. It can be supplied from the stitch length regulator of the Podolsk machine 2M class. or “Seagull” - 3 grades.
It happens that the driver 2 threads (picture ) is placed in such a way that the thread is wound incorrectly. It should wind with a slope from right to left and run from top to bottom. The bobbin in the shuttle always faces the sharp end to the left.
Rice. 125 Winding thread onto a bobbin (Singer machine):
If the thread does not wind correctly, bend the upper part of the carrier 2 at the site of a narrow isthmus. Bend only as an exception and at a small angle (2°). The fact is that the bobbins are not all the same length - due to wear, non-standard manufacturing and other reasons, so you should not bend the carrier along each bobbin.
- The top thread may break for the following reasons:
A) holding the thread at the tip of the shuttle. It is necessary to perform all the work with the shuttle listed above. Two factors remain decisive: the angle of sharpness of the shuttle and the careful polishing of its surface;
b) insufficient tilt in two planes of the carriage (its rear wall), as mentioned above;
V) The sharp protrusion of the bobbin on the back of the carriage may cause the top thread to break. You can make the bobbin yourself. It should have the dimensions and configuration as shown in the figures. And ;
G) the lining plate of the rear part of the carriage is broken off;
d) the angle of inclination of the rear vertical wall of the carriage is less than 100°;
e) sharp corners and edges on the surface of that part of the platform where the shuttle slides, breaks and sagging from work hardening on the back of the shuttle, strong tension on the regulator.
- Bottom thread breakage can occur for the following reasons:
A) tighten the screw for adjusting the tension of the lower thread on the hook;
b) the rear part of the carriage is raised high - bend it down 1 mm, the thread will no longer be pinched, and its break will be eliminated;
V) sharp corners and edges on the surface of the part of the platform where the shuttle slides.
- Skipping stitches in a line occurs for the following reasons:
A) the distance (in height) between the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle at the moment of their meeting is less than 1.0 mm. Lower the needle bar to 3-2.5 mm (see above) or bend the front part of the carriage;
b) the shuttle needle-nose gap in the vertical plane is more than 0.1 mm (see above);
V) the distance between the hook and the needle when it is in its lowest position is less than 2 mm. Turn the right eccentric screw on the rod (under the platform). If there is no such eccentric (it is not provided for in the design), remove the rod.
The bar is a part under the machine platform ( ).
Fig. 126 Rod with repair bend
(“Singer” with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):
It connects the carriage mounting unit to the vertical shaft. To ensure that the shuttle goes behind the needle at a distance of 5 mm, it is necessary to shorten the rod. To do this you need to do the following:
1) heat the middle of the rod over an open fire to 800-850 °C (until raspberry color);
2) bend the bar in a vice, the jaws of which are separated by 40-45 mm;
3) heat the edges of the fold. Bend one end of the rod in the opposite direction. Do the same with the other end. Deflection boom - 3.5-4 mm;
4) Eliminate distortions at the ends of the rod. Monitoring the correct adjustment of the parameter: the moment the hook nose meets the needle should occur at the moment the needle stops rising.
- The pulling of fabric (especially thin) in a stitch occurs due to the strong tension of the lower thread and the strong pressure of the foot on the fabric. It is necessary to loosen the screw on the hook and loosen the presser foot screw, loosen the tension of the upper thread on the regulator. The rack teeth should be optimally raised and extend out of the plate no higher than the height of the tooth. If the teeth are set differently, they will gather and tighten the fabric.
The tension on the compensation spring should be very low.
To ensure that the sewing machine does not skip stitches in a line when sewing materials from very thin (such as nylon, tricotine, jersey) to thick (such as four-layer chrome leather), you need to do the following:
a) do not throw out the left screw that blocks the needle bar with the slide, but move it lower under the slide so that it serves as a stop, and in the case of strong dynamic resistance to the needle, the needle bar cannot move upward in the slide ( );
b) fill the vertical channel for the passage of the needle, made structurally in the body of the platform, with universal epoxy glue, and fill that part of the channel that remains behind the needle on the left side (from the side of the long groove on the needle). The passage for the needle remains free, but the gap between the needle on the left and the filling mass must be 0.2 mm ( ).
Rice. 127 Repair of the channel for the passage of the needle
(“Singer” with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):
These two reconstruction measures are dictated by the practice of working on these machines.
The needle pitch can be increased by changing the design of the adjusting screw. Disassemble the needle pitch control unit. Cut off the second ring on the adjusting screw flush with the main rod. Assemble the knot.
In the case where the nose of the shuttle does not fit closely to the arc of the platform, a 0.5 mm thick stainless steel plate should be soldered onto the rear plane of the shuttle.
All the best, writeto © 2010
Many needlewomen still have sewing machines left over from their grandmothers. They sew beautifully and rarely break. But if repairs are still required, how to make repairs? sewing machines with your own hands? How to find out what exactly is wrong?
How can you tell what needs repair?
In case of serious breakdowns, only a professional technician can help the car. Although, as practice shows, most often repairs as such are not required and you just need to adjust the optimal thread tension, correctly install the needle relative to the shuttle and perform other similar manipulations.
If all these nuances are completed, then we will only briefly dwell on such causes of failure as installation of inappropriate needles, threads or incorrect technical operation cars. We also take into account that the threads are inserted into the needle properly and during the sewing process there is no tension on the fabric by the seamstress. After this, we will highlight the main parameters indicating a breakdown.
Common reasons:
- Unstable stitch(gaps in the stitching, different lengths, broken upper or lower threads, etc.).
- Executing a stitch with irregularities(pulling the material into an accordion, bevelling the stitching, excessive tightening or, on the contrary, loose tightening of the thread into the stitch, etc.).
- Violations of the stable running of the machine(noise during operation, “heavy” movement, needle breakage during operation, sudden jamming, etc.).
Car repair
Before repairing sewing machines with your own hands, you need to carefully inspect the needle you are currently using, the shuttle, and adjust the manual settings to avoid trouble. Most likely, your troubleshooting work will end with such actions, because in most cases this is enough to get the machine working.
Most malfunctions can be prevented if the parts of the sewing machine are cleaned and lubricated in a timely manner. This simple rule will allow you to encounter breakdowns as little as possible.
Unstable stitch
Gaps in the stitching can be caused by:
- blunt nose of the shuttle;
- loose needle fastening;
- a needle that is too thick for the selected fabric;
- incorrectly selected ratio of thread and needle eye sizes (too thick thread);
- incorrect needle installation;
- defective needle (bent point, etc.).
To check whether the needle you are using is bent or not, inspect it using a magnifying glass. If the tip is bent, replace the needle. Remember that not only the needle itself is important, but also its correct installation. Due to incorrect position, thread breakage can also occur. In most machines, the needle is installed so that the sawn part of the bulb faces away from the seamstress. The groove for the thread faces it and it is from the side of the groove that the thread will be inserted.
Thread breakage can occur due to excessive tension or due to contact of the thread with a rough surface as it moves. Inspect the shuttle for irregularities and, if any are found, lightly rub with a polishing file or the finest sandpaper. Do this carefully so as not to create new scratches.
Many cases of sewing machine malfunctions can be solved independently. But if you doubt that you can find the cause or have poor understanding of the internal contents of the machine, it is better to take the machine to a repair service.
Executing a stitch with irregularities
- The pulling of the fabric into an “accordion” occurs due to the difference in the operation of the device that moves the fabric and the needles. To check if this is true, look at the teeth as you work. They should disappear almost completely under the plate (only 1.5-2 mm is allowed), at the moment when the needle almost approaches the plate. It is unlikely that you will be able to carry out such repairs yourself, so it is better to trust a professional.
- Stitching may occur due to strong thread tension at the top and if the presser foot presses too lightly on the fabric. It is important to adjust thread tension and pressure. A similar problem is also possible due to wear on the smooth surface of the foot or the teeth of the rack.
- Bevelling of the stitching and its poor execution occurs due to excessive supply of the upper thread. In this case, you need to adjust the shuttle stroke parameters or remove irregularities on the parts through which the upper thread passes.
It is advisable to entrust repairs to the electric drive of a sewing machine to a specialist. Most often, the engine burns out and cannot be repaired, so it is simpler and easier to replace it.
Violations of the stable running of the machine
- Heavy movement during work may be due to:
- Jamming during operation occurs due to long downtime of the mechanism. If the machine has been idle for a long time, then before you start sewing, lubricate the parts with machine oil and start idling. This will allow the oil to distribute throughout the parts and ensure continued smooth operation.
- The needle may break during operation if the thickness is incorrectly selected for certain types of fabrics, if the wrong needle is selected for a given model (rare, but it does occur), it may also not be installed completely or be shifted to any edge of the needle hole. It is possible that the seamstress herself unnecessarily stretches the fabric when sewing. Inspect the mechanism and eliminate possible causes.
Use the correct types of oil. Some oils can dry on parts, creating a sticky substance similar to glue. This prevents parts from moving easily, making it difficult for the machine to move.
Complex repairs of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part of the sewing machine breaks down and requires its replacement and subsequent adjustment.
Most often, a sewing machine begins to “act up” if the rules of its operation specified in the instructions are violated or simple settings and adjustments are not followed.
The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunctioning is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of sewing machine. Hemming a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper on a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, and needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs involving the replacement of parts.
The main part of a sewing machine is the needle.
Oddly enough, the needle is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in tissue and not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle tip becomes dull and the needle itself bends. And if the needle “hits” the metal part of the machine body at least once, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, which means everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its tip; its blade will be bent in one direction. How will such a point pierce fabric? There is only one way - to break through it.
Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point and “slow down”, forming excess top thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason why loops appear in a line. Moreover, a curved point will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the top thread is stretched to the limit.
It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only of replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it does not outwardly have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often.
There is no need to throw away used needles, since there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.
Another reason for adjusting a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The needle blade (Figure B) should be located on the side of the shuttle nose. Remove the needle plate and see if this is true if the machine suddenly begins to loop and tear the thread.
It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is industrial types of needles that are installed. This should absolutely not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the nose of the shuttle and the needle blade, hence the gaps in stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household ones and can touch the surface of the shuttle, scratch it and even damage the shuttle.
Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, it is impossible to determine whether the needle is crooked or not, but if you place it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, curved needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will sooner or later break.
In order for the sewing machine to work more confidently with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim Needles are produced designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special tip shape and facilitate the passage of thread through the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See needles for household sewing machines.
The looping of the thread in the line, as well as the characteristic knocking sound during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between all models of zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142. In short, looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, an incorrectly installed shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often children like to disassemble and reassemble it, and after such repairs, the machine stops working. The Chaika sewing machine sometimes has to be repaired quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, its parts are very strong, but to misalignment of the interaction of some components of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle stroke.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.
First of all, check the shuttle nose with a magnifying glass; it should not have nicks or rust spots. If there are nicks, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly be caught behind the file marks and loops will appear from below. You just need to do this carefully so as not to dull the tip of the shuttle nose.
Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound on it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, namely repair, since an inexperienced “master” often disassembles and reassembles all the components, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread frays, the lower thread will come out jerkily, and the upper thread in the stitch will periodically loop from below.
Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost all the way, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps thread frays have accumulated between the tensioner plates, which are preventing the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner (Chaika) may have become loose.
But still, most often, with sewing machines like Chaika, the operating parameters of the shuttle and needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather adjustments, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason why all the “troubles” of sewing machines occur.
Attaching the needle bar and tensioner
Most often, the cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in the stitch, uneven stitching, omissions, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Chaika) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to wobble, or even “falls out” of the case.
Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1...2(3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine performs not only a straight stitch, but also on the left and right needle pricks (when performing a zigzag stitch).
The nose of the shuttle must simultaneously pass almost closely to the needle blade - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.
In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10mm socket wrench, and while holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (along with the shuttle stroke), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.
However, these are not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle begins to rise up. The needle drops to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps it around itself.
But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform zigzag stitches, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. When injecting the needle left and right, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should pass just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.
The above settings can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics, too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thicker fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only a master can set.
Sewing machine care and lubrication
In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary if you keep the sewing machine clean and lubricate it periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, and will not let it fall into the “strange” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.
After prolonged work, you should clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, fringes, and oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it, run it “idle” for a while, especially if the machine is not in use. long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into friction units and areas.
It is better to take machine oil into a medical syringe and drop small drops into accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.
The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust; try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden and the machine will be difficult to turn or even jam. This case is discussed in the article
The sewing machine mechanism includes a huge number of functional components, each of which is responsible for specific actions. This is what it's all about complexity and importance sewing technical equipment. Specialists service center Vostok-Pole in Moscow are able to fix any machine breakdown inexpensively and in the shortest possible time.
Possible malfunctions of the sewing machine
- The needle is not positioned correctly. As a result, looping problems and thread breakage may occur over time;
- Needle breakage. This malfunction is caused by incorrect positioning of the presser foot;
- Inaccurate thread direction. To fix this, you will need to check the condition of the shuttle and the position of the upper thread;
- Damage and regular tearing of the lower and upper threads;
- Skipping stitches;
- The sewing machine moves too hard;
- The unit does not turn on;
- Extraneous sound and grinding noise.
Sewing machine repair is necessary in any of the above cases. But at the same time, experts not recommended carry out the recovery procedure with my own hands. A person who does not have enough knowledge and experience will not be able to repair a sewing machine and bring the equipment to the required condition. His actions, on the contrary, will worsen the already difficult situation. In such cases always ready The employees of the Vostok-Pole sewing machine repair workshop offer their professional help.
Working algorithm of the Vostok-Pole team of masters
- The client calls the number hotline indicated on the official website of the service center, brings its unit to one of the workshops in Moscow independently or uses the courier delivery service from the company;
- The organization’s specialist advises the client on any question of interest and gives him an informative, comprehensive answer;
- In the case when both parties come to a general agreement regarding the repair, our craftsmen proceed to the first restoration stage of the sewing machine, which consists of thorough diagnosis THAT. This allows you to quickly identify all the vulnerable points of the damaged device;
- The next step is to repair the malfunction identified during the diagnostic process - we will repair the sewing machine quickly and inexpensively;
- After the repair procedure, a second check is carried out to make sure that the previous threat has been eliminated;
- Issuance of a document indicating a long-term warranty from the service center.
Advantages of professional sewing machine repair in Vostok-Pole
During its work, Vostok-Pole managed to accumulate great experience in the field of repairing sewing machines in Moscow. This is what allows the company to provide its customers exceptional quality services, but at the same time for optimal cost. Our repairmen always use specialized equipment in their work, which does not cause the slightest harm to the elements of the sewing machine. We only replace parts of the unit that have worn out over time. original spare parts, which have been tested for strength and quality.
These machines are 40-50 years old, and they still sew, which cannot be said about modern imported consumer goods. I bought it and threw it away, but my grandmother’s rarity is kept carefully, in many families, as a memory and as a masterpiece of Soviet industry.
Podolsk Order of the Red Banner of Labor Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinina produced these sewing machines of class 2-M.
Unpretentious, reliable, easy to use, it always helped out in difficult times, and allowed many to earn a living. It’s a pity to see how young people are now getting rid of old things that can serve their owners for a long time. Most of these cars now rest in a junkyard. And before, the sewing machine was affectionately called the nurse; it fed and sewed the family.
It's time to get down to business.
First of all, we cut off the fabric that women love to sew on the “waist” of the machine. Believe me, there is no benefit from it, they stick used needles, bent, blunt, into it, and then they try to reuse the same needles. And they can’t understand why the machine doesn’t sew. In addition, after such stickings, the coating deteriorates and scars like this remain. Used needles should be thrown into a trash bin, that’s where they belong.
We disassemble the machine, remove all the covers, the needle plate, and disassemble the shuttle, as shown in the photo.
It can be seen that lint from fabric and threads has accumulated on the shuttle body, there are even pieces of thread and all this is mixed with thickened oil.
And here there is also dust and thickened oil.
And this is a place where not a single seamstress ever looks in during the entire operation of the machine. Lint and dust and sand accumulate here, in general, everything that gets into the holes of the needle plate.
We remove all this mess with a needle and tweezers.
What time is it here?
The toothed rack also needs to be cleaned, it is best to do this with a large needle.
And of course we clean the shuttle device; it’s good to use kerosene for these purposes; if you don’t have it, you can remove the thickened oil with a knife or screwdriver.
All dirt and old oil have been removed, now we begin to lubricate the machine.
For these purposes, it is best to use a regular disposable syringe with the thickest possible needle. I don’t recommend using an oil can, it overfills the oil and you’ll get the machine dirty and you’ll get dirty yourself. Oil can be bought at any hardware store. Household Lubricating Oil will do.
Here the arrows indicate the technological holes for lubrication, put 3-4 drops into each hole, no more is needed.
And here it is necessary to drip into both holes, one hole of the needle bar and the second of the presser foot.
In these places, the needle bar is rarely lubricated, the friction here is crazy and the metal is used up, a backlash is formed, as a result of which the needle hits the needle plate or the shuttle.
And accordingly, our foot should also move freely up and down. Without braking, otherwise the fabric will be pressed unevenly, it will simply move under the foot and the stitches will be of different lengths.
And one more place that we definitely lubricate.
Winding the bobbin, add three drops of oil.
Now let's put the machine on its side. The arrows indicate all the places that need to be lubricated.
After complete lubrication, turn the handle for a couple of minutes so that the oil flows into all the joints and crevices of the machine mechanism. Feel the difference, it began to work completely differently, softly and quietly.
Pay special attention to the installation of the friction device.
Here you can see how not to do it; this is usually how amateur craftsmen install the friction washer, and as a result, they do not have a working stroke. After which they begin to use their imagination, cut out washers from cardboard, wind wire, in general, whoever is good at what.
This is how the washer should stand, the protrusions should be outward.
After this, tighten the friction screw and the stop screw.
The result of our work.
Do not store the sewing machine near heating devices or in cold, damp areas.