Some people mistakenly believe that the most important place in the house is the kitchen. However, every plumber will confirm that there is nothing better than a comfortably equipped, neat and clean bathroom, which household members find themselves in almost immediately after coming home.
Of course, the central place in the bathroom is occupied by the bathtub, which is made of cast iron, acrylic, steel or aluminum. Cast iron washing containers do not lose their relevance even after the advent of cheaper and lighter models made of polymer materials, since they heat up evenly and retain heat for a long time. Installing a cast iron bathtub is a labor-intensive process, the quality and correctness of which determines the convenience of washing, washing and other household needs. In this article we will tell you how to install a cast iron hot tub with your own hands.
Features of cast iron baths
They were used to perform hygiene procedures and maintain cleanliness 200-300 years ago, when attention was paid to the amazing properties of this metal. Cast iron heats up evenly during water intake and retains heat well for a long time. Manufacturers produce washing containers made of this metal with a depth of up to 60 cm, a length of up to 175 cm and a width of up to 90 cm.
The features of this product are:
- Heavy weight. The weight of a cast iron bath, depending on the size of the model, reaches 150 kg, which often complicates the transportation and installation of such models.
- Narrow size and model range. Since cast iron is considered a metal that is difficult to machine, manufacturers produce a limited set standard models and sizes, excluding corner baths.
- Fragility of the coating. An enamel coating that gives cast iron wash containers white, easy to damage even at the installation stage. During use, chips often appear on it.
Pay attention! The service life of a cast iron bathtub, if installed correctly and carefully operated, is more than 50 years. Modern models, which use a polymer coating instead of enamel, last even longer.
Transportation rules
First serious problem, which causes self-installation cast iron washing container - significant weight of the product. Some large models weigh more than 150 kg, but the bathtub must not only be delivered to the house, but also raised to the floor, sometimes without using an elevator. Before installing a cast iron bathtub, it is transported following the following recommendations:
- To lift a cast-iron washing container to the floor, 2 people will be required, since one worker cannot cope with such weight, and three will not be able to turn around in cramped flights of stairs.
- When carrying and lifting the bathtub to the floor, carry it correctly, orienting it with the drain hole against the direction of movement.
- The washing container is brought into the bathroom and placed vertically to give movers and plumbers room to maneuver.
- In order not to damage the threshold or doorway or scratch the bathtub, obstacles along the transportation route are covered with soft material (foam rubber, cardboard, fabric).
Important! Installation of cast iron models is carried out on. So such models weigh quite a lot, the surface is waterproofed, filled with concrete screed, and decorative material is laid. However, it would be best to start installing the washing container before finishing the walls to ensure a minimum gap at the joint between them and the bathtub.
Installation sequence
Do-it-yourself installation of a cast-iron bathtub is done after leveling and finishing the floor surface, but before laying ceramic tiles on the walls. By performing installation in this sequence, you can achieve a minimum gap between the washing container and the wall, so that moisture will not penetrate there.
Install a cast iron bath in the following sequence:
Experienced craftsmen claim that due to their significant weight, cast iron bathtubs can only be installed on a floor finished with hard materials. To reduce the load on the floor finishing, you can place a metal plate made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm or more under the knives.
Video instructions
Cast iron bathtubs remain popular among plumbing buyers due to their unique ability to retain heat for a long time and resistance to stress. Steel and acrylic bathtubs can “play” under the influence of the weight of an overweight person, while rigid, reliable products made of cast iron cope well with such tests.
In addition, manufacturers are developing new models of cast iron bathtubs that are not inferior in design or functionality to models made from other alternative materials. Replacing and installing a cast iron bathtub requires a lot of physical effort from the craftsmen, since the weight of the product can reach up to hundreds of kilograms.
Therefore, when doing work with your own hands, you have to call an assistant who will help you drag the bathtub into the bathroom and install it in its permanent location. A new bathtub will last at least 50 years, because cast iron is practically resistant to corrosion. For the sake of such a service life, you can tinker with heavy equipment, but first you need to take care of a stable, solid base that can withstand the pressure of a bowl filled with water.
- Construction level.
- Long ruler or rule.
- Marker or chalk.
- Hammer, screwdriver, wrenches.
- Roulette.
- Spatula.
- Silicone sealant.
- Grinder with a diamond blade for concrete.
- Hacksaw for cutting sewer pipe.
The entire underside of the cast iron bathtub is hidden behind a false panel made of bricks and lined with decorative ceramic tiles with hatch for servicing the drain-overflow system
Measuring the height of the bathtub with legs attached
Before bringing the bathtub into the bathroom, the legs included in the kit are secured, for which the product is turned upside down and laid on the floor.
There are quite a few options for attaching legs to a bathtub, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which usually provide a diagram of this operation. Most often there are two types of fastening supports to the bathroom:
- using metal wedges driven with a hammer into the mounting hole;
- by using threaded connection, during which the legs are attached to the bathtub with a bolt and the nut is tightly tightened with an open-end wrench.
It is important to achieve tight fastening, avoiding the occurrence of backlash in the connection of parts, in order to ultimately obtain monolithic structure, able to withstand intensive daily use.
Having installed all four standard legs, check their horizontal position using a level, and then measure the height of the bathtub along with the supports in order to mark the location of the groove on the wall.
After checking and taking measurements, the legs are removed, since it will definitely not be possible to bring the product with them into a narrow door.
The support legs are attached to the cast iron bathtub on a free platform; for this, the product is turned over and the fasteners are assembled in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions
Cutting grooves in the walls of the bathroom: why and how?
The stable position of the cast-iron bathtub is ensured not only by the standard legs, but also by inserting the rounded edges of the product into grooves cut into the walls using a grinder. This technology for installing plumbing does not allow it to wobble during operation.
Another positive aspect of this installation method is that the edge of the tile running along the side of the bathtub rests against its surface, which minimizes the ingress of water onto the wall.
The bottom edge of the tile “sits” tightly on the silicone, ensuring a 100% tightness of the connection. In this case, there is no need to use decorative corners produced specifically for finishing the side of the bathtub, since everything looks quite beautiful.
Also, with this method of installing a bathtub, it is possible to carefully trim the corners, preventing the appearance of cracks in them, which during normal installation without deepening the edges of the product into the walls are sealed with grout.
Over time, the grout cracks and crumbles, compromising the tightness and aesthetics of the seam.
Applying silicone sealant to the seams formed between the sides of the cast-iron bathtub and the walls of the bathroom ensures reliable sealing of the structure
To cut the groove in the right place, you need to make markings on two adjacent walls of the bathroom. If the length of the product is equal to the width of the room, then grooves are cut out in three walls and a bath is placed in them. At a certain height, using a building level, a long ruler or the usual rule, draw two lines with a marker, at a distance of 3-5 cm.
To ensure that the grinder cuts the wall like clockwork, purchase a high-quality diamond blade for concrete, which will ensure safe and reliable operation. This operation is accompanied by a large amount of dust. Cover the bathroom doors with a wet rag to prevent dust from scattering throughout the apartment. Protect your respiratory system and eyes from dust.
Having made two parallel cuts, take a hammer and chisel in your hands to carefully hollow out pieces of concrete between them, thus obtaining a gutter. If water pipes go into the wall, then be extremely careful when making cuts and gouging out concrete in these places.
Work with the precision of a jeweler to prevent damage to the elements of the water supply system. Before installing the bathtub, the entire bathroom area is cleared of fallen concrete fragments and dust.
After installing the product, cleaning will be more difficult, since the room is small and the places under the bathtub are difficult to reach.
Installing a profile under the edges of the bathtub: why and how?
There is another method of installing a cast iron bathtub, in which the short edge of the product is recessed into the groove, and the long side is laid on metal profile(60x27mm), which is used when installing drywall.
In this case, the profile is screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws. Silicone is applied to the side of the bathtub rim, to the profile wall and to the bathroom wall where the edge of the bowl touches. This ensures a tight connection and a stable position of the product.
How to bring a cast iron bathtub into the bathroom?
You need two people to carry a heavy cast iron product. The weight of a standard cast iron bathtub (150x70) is 100-120 kg, and an extended one (180x70) can reach up to 150 kg. Therefore, without a partner to an ordinary person this operation cannot be performed.
The bowl with the legs removed is carried in a horizontal position to the doorway leading to the bathroom, and then turned over vertically. In general, the product is brought in sideways and leaned against the wall in order to attach the legs to the bottom of the bathtub.
Therefore, bring the legs, fasteners and tools into the bathroom in advance so that everything is at your fingertips. The edges of the bowl are covered with a blanket or other soft materials, thereby eliminating the possibility of scratching floor and wall tiles.
If the plumbing is installed before the stage of wall and floor cladding, then this precaution may not be observed.
The threaded connection of the stationary legs to the bathtub is carried out using keys. The nuts should be tightened well to prevent the bathtub from collapsing
Having attached the standard legs, the bathtub is turned over from a vertical position to a horizontal one, holding the heavy product almost in your hands. Having placed the cast-iron bathtub on the floor, they begin to carefully move it towards the wall, making sure that its edges fit into the hollowed-out grooves.
Some craftsmen pre-coat the walls of the gutter with silicone, and then additionally apply this sealant to it so that the edge of the bathtub “tightly” sticks to the contacting surfaces.
Other craftsmen fill the groove with adhesive solution or plaster, and immerse the edges of the bathtub into it about one centimeter, removing the squeezed out mixture with a spatula. When the solution dries, the bathtub is walled into the wall.
Connecting the bathtub to the sewerage system
The siphon system, supplied by the plumbing manufacturer complete with the bathtub, is installed according to the attached instructions. According to the requirements of standard installation of siphons, it is necessary to seal the drain using silicone or rubber gaskets.
Silicone or rubber rings are placed between the body of the siphon and the outer surface of the bath. Many craftsmen do not use the sealing gaskets included in the kit, but apply silicone sealant to the connecting parts.
This is what a siphon system looks like, connected to sewer pipes, using a corrugated pipe, which facilitates installation of the entire product
Methods for connecting a bathtub siphon to a sewer pipe
There are two ways to connect a cast iron bathtub siphon to a sewer pipe:
- in the first case, use a corrugated pipe, which is included in the kit;
- in the second case, a smooth plastic sewer pipe is used, which is adjusted to the required dimensions independently, obtaining a rigid connection.
Experienced plumbers prefer the second method, since smooth walls prevent the pipe from becoming clogged with dirt and hair. Dirt settles faster on corrugated walls, interfering with the flow of drainage and contributing to clogging.
Although there is a hatch in the false panel for the drainage system, through which you can always replace the corrugated tube with a new part. Installation of corrugated pipe is faster, since there is no need to adjust the size of the part.
To ensure rapid drainage of water from the bathtub, it is necessary to ensure that when installing the product, the level of the siphon elbow is 50 mm above the sewerage system pipe. Affects the speed at which the bowl is freed from water and the diameter of the drain hole. Take this fact into account when choosing a bathtub model.
Checking the drain and overflow system for leaks
After assembling the drain-overflow system and connecting it to the sewer pipe, it is necessary to carry out tests by filling the bath with water to the top hole. Place newspaper or other paper under the siphon and pipes, on which leaked water will be immediately visible.
When you hear the characteristic sound of water flowing through the overflow tube, you can turn off the water in the hose extended to the bathtub from the nearest source of the water supply system. After this, open the plug and see how quickly the water leaves the bowl into the drain hole.
If all the water is gone, and the paper placed under the pipes remains dry, then you can consider the tests successful.
Feel free to start installing a false plasterboard panel, which is subsequently finished with tiles in accordance with the design project.
Installation of a cast iron bathtub on bricks is carried out using a jack or improvised means that allow the product to hang in the air
Installation of a cast iron bathtub on brick stands
There is another way to install a cast-iron bathtub, the main difference of which is that the product is placed not on legs, but on brickwork. In this case, the bath is placed on wooden struts, hanging it in the air, or on jacks.
In the place where the legs should have been, lay masonry one brick wide and three bricks high. Under the rounded part of the bathtub, a broken piece of brick is also placed on the mortar. In this case, the false panel is also laid out from brick placed on edge.
This way, the brick trim panel holds the front edge of the bath firmly in place. A block is placed under the side of the bathtub, located against the wall, which prevents the product from swinging. The following video allows you to see how skillfully you can install a cast-iron bathtub on bricks with your own hands.
Leveling a cast iron bathtub
It can be difficult to level the position of a cast iron bathtub after installation due to the curvature of its sides. This is especially true for products manufactured in Russia. Therefore, craftsmen advise leveling the bowl relative to the tiles, which are laid strictly level.
This method allows you to visually hide small differences in height. Cast iron bathtubs must be installed on floors leveled with concrete screed. Whether or not to lay floor tiles under the bathroom is up to each owner to decide for himself.
If the bathtub will be closed with a blank false panel, then it is not worth spending money on purchasing floor tiles. If the product will stand on beautiful legs, which are a separate decorative element, then the tiles are laid on the floor in mandatory. To level the horizontal position of the product, use:
- metal plates 5 mm thick;
- stands made from tile scraps glued with silicone;
- twist-out legs that allow you to adjust the length of each support individually.
It should be noted that there is no need to create a slope towards the drain hole. The manufacturer takes this nuance into account at the bathtub manufacturing stage.
These wooden stands can not be hidden from human eyes, as they decorate the interior of the room, combining perfectly with a lattice and a stand for small accessories
As you can see, it is impossible to install a heavy cast-iron bathtub yourself without the help of a partner. Therefore, you will have to call a strong friend or neighbor for help. The remaining stages of installation are not so difficult, although they have many tricks.
If you are confident in your abilities and have a lot of free time, then start installing a bathtub. Otherwise, you shouldn’t sweat it, making a bunch of mistakes and ruining expensive plumbing fixtures. Invite professionals who have proven themselves in the market for these services.
You will see how quickly the craftsmen will carry out all the operations and hand over the turnkey project to you in the shortest possible time. After all, they have no time to put things off until tomorrow; their schedule is scheduled many days in advance.
Cast iron bathtubs have been used for a very long time. Their popularity is explained by their high wear resistance and almost unlimited service life. In addition, cast iron structures retain heat well and, due to their large weight, cannot tip over under the weight of a person.
It is almost impossible to install such a bathtub alone. Therefore, it is recommended to invite a partner to install a cast-iron bathtub yourself. Instructions for installing a cast iron bathtub with your own hands can be found in this article.
List of required tools
All tools can be purchased at any hardware store.
Installation of a cast iron bathtub involves the use of the following tools:
- grinder and diamond disc for concrete;
- building level;
- construction ruler;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- spanner;
- marker;
- silicone sealant;
- roulette;
- spatula;
- hacksaw or metal scissors.
Measuring the height of the bathtub with legs attached
Before measuring, you need to turn the bathtub over, place it on the floor and secure the legs to it. Usually they come included. The legs are attached in two ways:
- using bolts - this method makes it possible to level the bowl;
- using wedges - in this case, the holes on the bowl are compared with the holes on the legs, and wedges are driven between them;
After fastening, you need to check the correct installation of the legs using a building level. Then the height is measured along with the legs. The locations of the grooves are marked on the wall with a marker.
Afterwards, the legs are removed, since it will be problematic to bring the entire assembled structure into the room.
Cutting grooves in the walls of the bathroom for what and how
The grooves are cut for additional fixation of the bowl so that it does not wobble during use. You can make them using a grinder.
The grooves are in close contact with the edges of the tiles, so the risk of water getting into them is minimal. The joint is treated with silicone sealant, and a ceramic border is fixed on top for decoration.
How to make a groove correctly?
If the length of the bowl and the width of the room are the same, then the groove is cut in three walls, but if the width of the room is larger, then in two adjacent ones. Afterwards the bathtub is inserted into them and pressed tightly against the wall.
Only a grinder with a diamond blade is suitable for cutting. It is recommended to cover the doorway with a damp cloth, put on a protective mask and goggles to protect against dust.
Installing a profile under the edges of the bathtub: why and how
This method involves cutting grooves for two short sides of the bowl. The long side is fixed to a galvanized profile, which is used for working with drywall.
The profile itself is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws. After installation, all edges and joints with the profile and the wall are carefully treated with silicone sealant, providing protection against water getting into the cracks.
How to bring a cast iron bathtub into the bathroom
Cast iron fonts can weigh more than 150 kilograms, and you can only lift it to the floor yourself, without using an elevator. You need to carry it with the drain hole facing the direction of movement.
Only two people will be needed for transportation; a third person on a narrow flight of stairs will only get in the way. The bowl should be brought into the room by turning it sideways.
To avoid scratches and chips on the surfaces of the floor and door frame, they must be protected with any soft material.
The washing container should be placed vertically so that it does not interfere with the performance of all further necessary actions. Afterwards, the legs are re-attached to it, the reliability of their installation is checked and the font is carefully turned over to a horizontal position.
After which it is moved as close as possible to the wall and inserted into the grooves. Experienced specialists recommend applying a layer of sealant or glue to the gutters in advance for a more reliable fixation.
Connecting the bathtub to the sewerage system
Installation of a cast iron bathtub requires connection to the sewerage system.
Installation of the bath siphon is carried out following the attached instructions. The siphon itself usually comes with the bathtub. It is necessary to ensure the drain is sealed using rubber or silicone gaskets.
They are also included in the kit, so during assembly of the siphon they must be installed in the indicated places.
It is important to know that the siphon consists entirely of plastic elements, so assembly must be done by hand, without using keys or other tools.
Methods for connecting a bathtub siphon to a sewer pipe
There are only two ways:
- Through a plastic sewer pipe. This method is more preferable; the pipe is adjusted by the master, ensuring a rigid connection. At the same time, the smooth walls of the pipe simply cannot retain debris, so cleaning needs to be done much less frequently than when using a corrugated pipe.
- Using a corrugated tube included in the kit. This method is inconvenient, since the corrugated surface collects all the dirt and has to be constantly cleaned. It is recommended to install such a pipe only if absolutely necessary.
How to attach a siphon with a corrugated tube to a sewer pipe:
- Place rubber or silicone rings on the siphon threads and place the nut inside the drain.
- Using a union nut and a siphon, connect the pipe and the corrugated tube.
- Using a nut, connect the structure to the corrugation, not forgetting to put on the rubber gasket and tighten the ends.
- Insert a gasket into the nut and close the hole to clear the pipe from blockages.
- Connect the corrugation to the hole in the overflow tube.
- Connect the structure with the gasket located on the drain. Fix the drain inside the bathtub and connect it to the plastic drain with a nut.
- Place a gasket on the corrugated drain and secure the nut at the bottom.
- Press the overflow bolt to the back of the tub and insert it into the drain. Pull all the elements together.
- Connect the corrugated pipe to the sewer pipe with a special rubber ring.
It is recommended to purchase a siphon in the shape of the letter S or U - they are equipped with holes for clearing the drain if it is clogged. To ensure that water does not linger and flows into the drain at the required speed, place the siphon elbow above the sewer pipe by approximately five centimeters.
After installation, the system should be checked for leaks.
To do this, place sheets of paper or newspaper under the siphon and sewer pipe so that in case of a leak, you can immediately determine the places where water is dripping from. Then close the drain with a stopper and fill with water (approximately 5 - 6 liters). Then drain the water and carefully monitor the system. Carry out the procedure three times. If nothing is leaking and the water moves down the drain quickly, the installation can be considered successful.
If water drips, carefully check the entire structure and treat questionable areas with silicone sealant.
Installation of a cast iron bathtub on brick stands
Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks is a very reliable method of fastening. Bricks can withstand intense weight loads and are not subject to corrosion.
Of course, it is also convenient to install the bowl on the legs, but after about ten years of daily use, the legs begin to loosen. Therefore, the bowl changes its position, and the water does not flow down the drain for a long time. With brick stands this problem will never arise.
How to place a bathtub on brick stands:
- First of all, measure the bowl and determine the location of the supports. To do this, measure a distance of 25 centimeters in each direction from its middle. These will be the places for supports.
- The optimal height is from 50 to 70 centimeters.
- Using a cement mixture, brick laying is done at the marked points. The recommended width is one brick.
- It is recommended to place a false wall under the front edge. The brick is placed on edge and masonry is carried out. You need to leave a window in the wall for servicing the water supply in the event of a breakdown.
- After the stands have completely dried, rubber pads are placed on top.
- Next, install the bowl on the bricks. All actions are carried out carefully, coordinating each with a partner.
- The bottom is leveled to the building level.
- After installation, the structure is checked for strength. If there are even minimal movements, the cup is carefully inspected and any deficiencies are eliminated.
There is another way to install on bricks - creating a podium from them.
In this case, a podium with a recess inside is laid out of bricks, and the font is then inserted into it. This method is used to install bathtubs made of acrylic and steel, which have less stability.
Leveling a cast iron bathtub
Alignment after installation is necessary, but difficulties can arise here too. The fact is that the edges of the bathroom are often uneven due to the nature of production. This is especially typical for models manufactured in our country.
In such a situation, tiles that are laid out level are a great help. The edges of the bowl are aligned along it.
Uneven floors are leveled using a concrete screed.
The bath itself is leveled to the building level using metal plates and pieces of tiles that are placed under the legs. Some bathtubs come with adjustable feet.
Before installation, you should decide how to design the floor. If the bathtub stands on legs decorated with beautiful decorative overlays, the floor is tiled.
In the case where the bathtub on the side is hidden under a special screen, there is no need to cover the floor, because it will not be visible.
So, as you can see from the article, installing a bathtub with your own hands is a simple process that requires minimum set tools. With the help of the knowledge gained and the help of a partner, all the work can be done very quickly.
With proper and timely care, a cast iron bathtub will retain its properties, ensuring comfortable water procedures for a long time.
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
When renovating a bathroom, the question often arises of how to install a cast iron bathtub. Installation, as a rule, is not difficult if all stages of installation are carried out correctly and the necessary materials are selected correctly.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a cast iron bathtub
The standard installation of a cast iron bathtub on the legs that come with it is often inconvenient due to the fact that the height installed bath turns out to be insufficient for comfortable use (especially for washing clothes in it).
1. When installing a new cast-iron bathtub with your own hands, first mark the height at which you need to set it. From this mark, facing tiles are laid to the ceiling.
2. A typical cast iron bathtub has mounting points. However, in this case, we will consider an example of installing a cast-iron bathtub on bricks, which allows us to obtain the required level for its convenient and trouble-free use.
3. Having determined the height at which you need to install the bathtub, we arrange a level lining along the wall from a wooden block with a strip of moisture-resistant plasterboard on the upper edge (taking into account the thickness of the bathtub side). This is done in order to remove the gap between the bathtub and the wall. We attach the block to the bathroom wall, checking that the fastening is horizontal with a level.
4. The video shows how a bathtub is installed on bars with temporary pads at the bottom made from scrap materials. For stability, we support the sides of the bathtub with racks made of bars. We check the horizontal installation with a level: the cast-iron bathtub should be pressed tightly against the lower edge of the facing tile.
5. After making sure that the bath is in the correct position, connect the siphon to drain the water. If necessary, we cut out a piece of sewer pipe to the standard siphon. plastic pipe required diameter. You can immediately check the drain operation with a small amount of water. We make sure that after opening the plug, all the water leaves the bathtub without any residue.
6. Connect the ground wire from the bathtub to the steel water pipe or a special grounding conductor.
7. In the places where the legs are installed across the bathtub, we lay ceramic bricks on cement mortar, sealing the gap tightly. Then after that we remove the temporary bars that held the bathtub on.
8. To install a false brick wall, use a plumb line on the floor to knock out the line of the edge of the bathtub. When laying bricks, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the tiles and the layer of adhesive for its installation. Bricks for false walls should be laid on edge, checking the verticality of the masonry. To make washing easier, we make a niche for the feet in the bathtub. Dimensions of the niche: depth - 20 cm, width - 30-40 cm, height - 20 cm (These dimensions are conditional. Anyone can adjust them “to suit themselves”).
9. According to the photo, to service the siphon we leave a hole for installing a metal or plastic inspection hatch.
10. After the brickwork has dried, we begin laying the facing tiles by installing a metal strip horizontally across an entire number of tiles. Having laid out the top rows of tiles, dismantle the plank and lay out the bottom row, cutting the tiles to height (if necessary). We lay the tiles in the niche, as well as on the top of the bathtub, if there is a gap between the wall itself and the bathtub.
11. Lay a row of tiles in the gap between the bathtub and the wall (we wrote above about wooden block with a gypsum board strip), covering part of the side.
12. Install the inspection hatch.
To prevent the installation of a cast-iron bathtub from seeming like an overwhelming and very complicated repair step, you need to study the process itself in more detail. We examined this in detail in our article, highlighting the main stages of installation and paying attention to special attention every step.
Having become familiar with the nuances of installation, it is quite possible to cope with such work on your own. The main thing is to do everything correctly and consistently, following the installation recommendations.
At the same time, it is important to avoid common mistakes, some of which we also discussed in our article. This will allow you to save a lot on the services of relevant specialists.
Choosing a cast iron bathtub is quite difficult - there are so many beautiful models Manufacturers suggest that you won’t immediately understand which one to take.
There are original designer baths with beautiful legs, and there are ordinary ones, there are corner, round, simple rectangular shapes, with a hydromassage function and musical accompaniment of the bathing process - for any consumer.
It is important not to get lost in all this diversity and explore technical specifications. Let's consider the main criteria that are important when choosing a cast iron bathtub.
Declared and actual dimensions of the product
The very first and most important thing is to choose optimal size plumbing equipment, based on the individual parameters of your room.
The choice of cast iron bathtubs on the market is very diverse. Here it is important to take into account not only your wishes, but also the actual size of the room, the floor, and the strength of the building’s floors.
Image gallery
Stage #3 – installing legs and leveling the bathtub
Second stage in self-installation bathtubs - screwing the legs. Their height in most cast iron models is adjustable.
The main thing is to adhere to the generally accepted norm:
- the distance from the top edge of the bathtub to the floor must be at least 60 cm, more detailed standards and norms for the height of the bathtub to the floor;
- at least 50 cm if this container will be used by a child kindergarten or disabled;
- the height when installing a bathtub may exceed the norm, but under no circumstances should it be less.
It is convenient to screw the legs while the bath is in a lying position. By carefully screwing them with the special bolts and nuts included in the kit to the fastenings, you can turn the product over.
Before doing this, you should consider what kind of surface it will stand on. If there is a danger of scratching the tiles with your feet, then you can put them on special plastic pads.
Sometimes in houses with weak floors, the legs of a cast-iron bathtub are placed on wooden boards, which allows the load to be evenly distributed over the entire floor area. This option is not suitable for rooms where, according to the designer, a bathtub with open legs is intended, without the use of screens.
The use of rubber and other springy materials under the legs of the bathtub is undesirable. This can cause cracks to form where the edges of the bathtub meet the wall. It is better to choose brick or wood
The bathtub with the screwed supports is turned over and placed on legs. Here, special attention is paid to the stability of the structure. It is necessary, using a building level, to achieve a horizontal position of the upper edges of the container.
Also, do not forget about the slight slope towards the drain hole. According to the standards, its value is 2 cm per 1 meter of product length.
All that remains is to secure the bath tightly to its permanent location. But, before such an important step, you must check whether the connections are leaking and whether all the water is completely gone.
To do this, place paper or a white dry cloth under the bath, add water and watch the result. If there is the slightest leak somewhere, then it will be clearly visible on paper.
In addition to the factory legs, included in the kit or purchased separately, a situation may arise when you need to fix the bathtub using a strong support. In such cases, use brickwork. To figure out how to properly install the bowl on bricks, go.
Stage #4 – installing the bowl and sealing the joints
When all the components are installed, the components are sealed, and the legs hold the bathtub in a horizontal position, you can proceed to the final stage - installing the container and sealing all joints and seams. This is true for models that will stand close to the walls.
For free-standing bathtubs with open legs, it is enough to firmly secure the supports with waterproof polymer glue so that the filled container does not go anywhere with its owner during the ablution process.
If the designer suggested installing a bathing tank away from the walls, then by the time it is installed, the internal finishing work must be completed. To prevent the legs from scratching anything, they need to be covered with plastic pads
If the tiles are laid to the level of the bathtub, then a recess is made in the wall - a gutter, into which the edge of the container is inserted. It is important that the side does not go deep into the wall, otherwise it will become inconvenient during operation and will greatly damage appearance.
Also, do not forget to immediately remove all excess, carefully wiping the surface of the bath. It is advisable to provide complete protection for the enamel of plumbing equipment by wrapping the surface with film.
Sometimes the design of the bathroom does not require a tight fit of the bathing container to the walls. In such a situation, it is sufficient to securely fasten the legs for safe operation of the equipment.
All joints and small gaps are treated with cement or polyurethane foam, the top is covered with silicone sealant.
Sometimes a special plastic corner is used for finishing. It sticks easily and looks good, but quickly loses its attractiveness and begins to leak water. It is more practical to make a tight junction of the tiles on top and use grout.
We have material on our website that details the best options between a bathtub and a wall. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with them.
Having processed all the joints, you can begin tiling. At this stage, it is important to provide free access to the siphon inspection. After all, no one is safe from clogged pipes or leaks.
For such situations, a freely removable door or lid disguised as a tile is provided. Or a separate tile is placed on 4 magnets - as you like. Selection and installation rules inspection hatch we have reviewed .
More cheap option– install a plastic door. But this is not very beautiful and can disrupt the design of the bathroom. In any case, you cannot do without access to the siphon. Therefore, when installing a bathtub with your own hands, you should not forget about this point.
Errors during installation
Often, even the crew hired to install a cast iron bathtub does a poor job. The most unpleasant thing is that all errors become noticeable only during operation.
At first glance, it seems that everything was done correctly, but in reality it turns out to be the opposite. You should pay attention to the most common mistakes made by home craftsmen who are faced with self-installation for the first time.
Firstly, there is no horizontal leveling of the bathtub using a building level. This may result in poor or slow water flow, or an unstable position of the container. Such an error must be corrected immediately - after all, the installed equipment is not suitable for use.
Secondly, when installing the legs, the screws may be overtightened. As a result, cracks or chips may appear. This seemingly unnoticeable problem will in the near future lead to the need to replace the bathtub with a new one.
If, due to negligence during the installation process, you touched the bowl and its inner surface chips or scratches appear, then you can perform a range of work.
When attaching the supports to the container body, you should tighten the nuts extremely carefully so that nothing breaks off.
Thirdly, it is extremely undesirable to place thick rubber pads under the legs. After all, during the bathing process the bathtub will spring back and after a couple of months the sides will move away from the walls of the room. Water will begin to enter these gaps, flowing under the bathtub. You will have to spend time, effort and money to fix this problem.
Fourthly, a rather dangerous mistake is not to ground the bathtub. When installing an electrical potential equalizer, you need to pay special attention to its tight fit to ensure reliable contact.
It is especially important to properly ground the electrical equipment of a cast iron hot tub.
Fifthly, when, in order to save money, a siphon was used without inspection or access to the inspection was walled up. In the event of a blockage or breakdown, you will have to put in a lot of effort to eliminate the problem.
Sixthly, it is very inconvenient when the sides of the bathtub go deep into the wall. This visually makes the bathing procedure extremely unpleasant and interferes with attaching shelves or installing seats. It is important to remember this even at the stage of cutting a recess in the wall, so as not to overdo it.