How to make a socket: step-by-step instructions, device and recommendations. Correct installation of sockets Installing an internal socket with your own hands

Installing sockets in concrete is a responsible task that requires attentiveness, compliance with safety precautions and certain skills.

The work process consists of several stages and includes marking the surface, making grooves, laying wires, installing socket boxes, fittings and finishing work.

Preparatory work

Before starting installation work, you need to prepare tools and materials. You should decide on the areas where the sockets will be installed. It is necessary to draw a diagram showing the installation locations of sockets, switches and wire lines.

Pay attention! In residential premises, it is customary to install sockets at a height of 30–40 centimeters from the floor. If we are talking about a bathroom, toilet, corridor or other room for utilitarian purposes, the level of fittings must be chosen based on practical need.

When laying wires, you should follow some rules:

  1. The wiring should be located 15 - 20 centimeters from the ceiling.
  2. The wires should only diverge vertically or horizontally. Building codes prohibit diagonal laying of wires, creating zigzags or twists between wires.
  3. The distance between the grooves and the gas pipeline should not be less than 35 centimeters.

Tools and materials

Installing a socket in a wall requires the following tools and materials:

  • devices for creating grooves (grinder or wall cutter);
  • hammer drill for drilling sockets;
  • a crown for working with concrete, a Pobedit drill, a spatula-shaped attachment;
  • knife, wire cutters, screwdriver;
  • spatula;
  • roulette;
  • plaster and alabaster;
  • deep penetration primer composition;
  • socket box;
  • wires;
  • pencil.

Marking

Mark the center of the axis on the wall where the wires will be laid and holes for sockets will be placed. To do this work we use a pencil and a tape measure.

If in the future you need to install adjacent sockets or an entire block of devices, you must maintain a certain distance between the mechanisms. The recommended gap is 7.1 centimeters (average center-to-center distance of socket boxes).

In the center we draw 2 axes: vertical and horizontal. The lines should be long enough - this will allow the socket box to be installed as evenly as possible.

Making holes

There are three ways to create holes in a wall:

  1. Using a concrete crown.
  2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill.
  3. Using a grinder (angle grinder).

First option (crown for concrete)

The cutting element of the crown is a diamond-coated part. You can use pobedite nozzles. Heavy-duty material makes it easy to destroy any hard surface. The cut is smooth and round. In the inner part of the nozzle there is a concrete drill, intended for centering the cutting element.

Pay attention! The nozzle must have a larger diameter than the dimensions of the installed socket box.

We place the drill at a given point and begin to immerse the crown into the material. When the cut is completed, we hollow out the remaining concrete. To do this we use a hammer and chisel.

Second option (drill, hammer drill, pobedit drill)

If you don’t have a concrete bit, you can make a hole for the socket using a Pobedit drill bit. It is best to make a hole with a hammer drill, and if a tool is not available, an impact drill will do. In the latter case, the process will be more labor-intensive.

The circle is drilled along a pre-drawn line. The step is taken as small as possible. To control the depth of penetration, it is recommended to use electrical tape tied to the drill. As in the first option, we finish the work using a hammer and chisel.

Third option (Bulgarian)

Bulgarian - no best way making round holes, but is more suitable for creating squares. However, if you don’t have any other tool, you can make a hole for a socket in the wall using a grinder.

We select a special disc for concrete. Draw a square instead of a circle. We make 4 cuts in the wall along the drawn lines. The depth of the cuts slightly exceeds the size of the socket box. We remove the remaining concrete with a hammer and chisel.

Adjusting the hole to the size of the socket box

When the hole is made, we check how well the socket box fits under it. Since the hole was initially made larger than the diameter of the socket box, problems with the width should not arise. The main effort is usually put into adjusting the desired depth.

We bring the hole to a depth at which the socket box will be buried in the niche by about 5 millimeters. The depth reserve is provided taking into account the placement of fixing material (gypsum or alabaster mortar) into the hole. In addition, a certain place will be occupied by the bend of the wire suitable for the device.

Advice! To make it easier further work, it is recommended to trim the edge from the edges of the hole. We do this using a knife.

By adjusting the depth, the installed socket box will be hidden in the hole along with the outer skirt. This will allow you to install the device in the same plane with the wall. If the skirt is not recessed, you will end up with a gap of 1 - 2 millimeters between the rosette frame and the wall.

Wiring

The work is performed in the following order:

  1. We check the insulation and cable cores for defects.
  2. Remove the cover from the junction box.
  3. We insert different ends of the cable into the junction box on one side, and into the installation box on the other. To make it convenient to make new connections in the future, we install the cable with some reserve (10 - 15 centimeters).
  4. We prepare a groove at the top of the hole for the wire. To make the grooves, we use a hammer with a chisel or a hammer drill with an impact attachment. If the wall material is not hard, even a chisel is suitable for making grooves.
  5. We lay the wires (corrugated pipe with a cable inside) in a groove. The wire should lie freely in the niche, without interfering with the electrical outlet. On the back of the device there is a special slot in which we place the wire.
  6. The wire can be fixed with alabaster mortar. The recommended pitch is 250 millimeters.
  7. We cover the defects with putty.

As a fixing composition, you can use not only alabaster, but also gypsum (medical or construction). To prepare the solution, pour the base into a container. Add water in small volumes, aiming to obtain a medium-thick solution.

The composition must be used very quickly, because after just a couple of minutes it will be very difficult to work with it, and after 5 minutes the solution will become completely unusable.

Preparation and installation of socket boxes

Turn off the electricity supply. We try the box to the hole. There should be no obstacles to installing the socket box flush with the surface. All extra elements cut and remove.

We clean the bottom of the hole from dirt and dust, and then prime it. Treating the surface with a primer is important to ensure adhesion of the fixing composition to the wall. Let the primer dry.

  1. We squeeze out a plastic fragment in the box through which we pull the cable.
  2. We treat the walls and bottom of the recess and the outer part of the socket box with the solution.
  3. We install the device (or block) in the solution. Align the top edge of the socket box with the level of the wall.
  4. Using a building level, check the horizontalness of the mounting lugs.
  5. We remove the excess solution that got into the box.

Pay attention! If a block of sockets is to be installed, the socket boxes are connected through a structural adapter.

Installation of a double socket box

The socket boxes are connected to each other using a connector (another name is a butterfly). On the sides of the socket boxes there are special grooves for connecting the butterfly. Thanks to these grooves, you can connect not only 2, but also many more socket boxes.

Work order:

  1. We make markings. We count the distance from the floor. At the desired height, draw a strip (strictly horizontally).
  2. We apply the socket boxes (connected with a butterfly) to the strip. We mark the central parts of each socket box on the strip.
  3. We make holes (using one of the three methods indicated above).
  4. We make connecting grooves between the holes. This can be done using a grinder.
  5. We lower the wire into one of the holes.
  6. Further work is carried out in the same way as in the case of one socket box.

Finishing

Finishing work can begin only after the fixing composition has completely dried. If you rush and start plastering the grooves and holes earlier, there is a high risk of the built-in device moving.

Finishing is done as follows:

  1. We use a primer to treat all noticeable defects, which may include irregularities, chips, and holes. Once again we trim the surface around the socket boxes.
  2. When the wall is dry, we begin to putty the surface. After the putty has dried, sand the coating. As a result, it is necessary to obtain the most even concrete surface possible.
  3. Apply another layer of primer and wait for it to dry.

Installation of accessories

After graduation finishing works We are starting to install the socket mechanisms. Before starting work, check that there is no power in the network. It is recommended to shut off the current supply directly at the distribution board. To do this, you need to turn off the circuit breakers.

We connect wires to the socket depending on the type of socket (screw, spring). Here we will look at installing a socket with spring terminals.

We prepare the wires by removing the outer protective sheath of the power cable. We strip the ends of the cores by 10 - 12 millimeters. We direct the wires to the terminals of the socket mechanism. We insert the yellow-green ground wire into the central terminal, send the blue wire (zero) to the left terminal, and connect the white wire (phase) to the right terminal.

Working with wiring requires certain qualifications, and it is not recommended for non-specialists to undertake it. However, if you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the necessary tools, then, subject to safety precautions, it is quite possible to independently install an outlet in a concrete wall.

Greetings to all readers of our blog.

Today, dear readers, I want to cover the topic of how to install sockets. This procedure is very often in demand when replacing an old outlet with a new one in the event of a breakdown, when renovating rooms and completely replacing electrical wiring.

The work itself is not very difficult, but, as with everything, there are some peculiarities and “highlights”. So let's get started...

As you know, sockets are the end points of the electrical network to which consumers (irons, refrigerators, TVs, etc.) are directly connected. They are both external and internal. The principle of connecting to the electrical network is the same for some and for others, the difference is that the internal ones are installed in special boxes (socket boxes) recessed into the wall and practically do not stick out, while the external ones are attached directly to the surface of the wall and are completely visible.

Let's look at everything in order:

ATTENTION: When carrying out any work on electrical wiring, do not forget to turn off the electricity, and additionally check that it is not in the network after turning off.

1. Attaching external sockets.

The principle of installing an outdoor socket is very simple and requires minimal effort. This type of consumer connection is used mainly in rooms with external wiring, in rooms whose structures are made of flammable materials (for example, wooden buildings).

Of course, when using external wiring and external means of connecting consumers, the aesthetic appearance of the room deteriorates - all wires are visible. But, on the other hand, when there is a choice between aesthetic appearance and safety of life, safety is clearly chosen. Due to the fact that all electrical wiring elements are visible, the problem area is easily identified. For example, if there is poor contact, you will immediately see areas where the housing has melted, a change in the color of the housing, and the appearance of smoke.

Installation of an external socket is carried out as follows.

  • disassemble the body;

Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the top cover.

  • Using screws, we screw the base to our surface (for example, to a wall);

If the structure is attached to a flammable material (for example, wood), it is advisable to lay non-flammable material (paronite, plaster) under the base. This additional layer will create a barrier between the flammable material and the outlet and prevent fire.

  • we connect the power supply wires (more about this in paragraph 3 “Connecting sockets to the electrical network”).
  • screw the cover to the body and completely assemble the socket.

2. Rvarieties and installation of boxes for internal sockets.

A completely different installation principle is used for internal sockets. When attaching them, a box must be used. This is a special cylindrical box into which the body of the socket itself is placed.

Previously, metal boxes were used. A recess was made in the wall at the point where the electrical wiring would come out, if the wall was tiled - or of the required diameter. A box was mounted into it using alabaster and contact wires were brought out. Only then, a means of connecting end consumers or a switch for connecting voltage to the box was attached to the box.

Nowadays, with the advent of plastic in widespread use, boxes began to be made from it. In such a box, the socket is held well both with the help of spacer legs and screwed with screws. Another advantage of such a box is its budget price.

If there is a need to install several sockets, the boxes are easily connected to each other into a block.

Depending on the material of the walls in which it is planned to mount the installation box, boxes of various modifications are also produced.

Ordinary boxes are used for installation, for example, in brick walls. To do this, use a crown to drill a hole at the location of the electrical wiring outlet and the future outlet or switch. Already in this hole, using alabaster, a box is fixed flush with the surface of the wall into which the wiring is routed.

If you plan to mount the box into a plasterboard wall, then you need to use a special box “with ears” as in the photo below.

We drill a hole with a diameter of 68 mm in the drywall. and insert the box into it. By tightening the screws, the tabs on the back of the drywall press the box and secure it firmly in place. The free space between the plasterboard and the wall must be at least 45 mm so that the box is completely recessed and flush with the outer surface of the plasterboard.

Please note: Modern sockets sold in stores are almost all designed for plastic installation boxes with an internal diameter of 65 mm. and are not always suitable for metal (old) boxes. The inner diameter of the metal box is 68 mm. The extension of the legs of modern sockets is not enough to secure the housing in the old box. Therefore, when buying a socket in a store, check whether it is suitable for old boxes.

3. Connecting the socket to the electrical network.

All preparatory operations have been completed and our new outlet can be installed and connected.

  • Remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolts from the front side;

  • We relax the contacts into which the power wires will be inserted so that the distance between the pressing jaw and the stop is greater than the diameter of the contact wire and it can be freely inserted to a depth of 5-10 mm.

  • We clean the ends of the power wires brought into the box. We orient the ends of the wires so that they fall into the contact points of the housing and bend them in the form of a springy snake (as in the photo below). This type of bend makes it possible to remove the housing from the wall to tighten the bolts securing the wires to the housing and eliminate sharp bends in the wire when inserting it into the box;

  • Tighten the bolts securing the wires in the housing sockets.

It is necessary to tighten it very tightly, since when connecting a powerful consumer (for example, a 2 kW heater) and poor contact, the connection point will begin to heat up. This will lead to melting of the wires, plastic housing, and ultimately failure of the entire structure and wiring.

What to do if the ends of the wires leading into the box are short and do not allow connecting an outlet?

In this case, there are several ways out of this situation:

The best, but also the most the hard way This is to lengthen the wires by soldering a wire of the required length onto them and insulating the soldering area. This method is suitable if you have all the necessary accessories (soldering iron, solder, etc.) for soldering, if the wiring is copper and the length of the supply wire allows this to be done.

If the wire breaks off right under the body of the box, you can carefully open the place where the wiring is sealed in the wall and carry out the extension soldering procedure where it is convenient. Of course, the aesthetic appearance of the wall will be disrupted and this place will be damaged a little, but still, the loss of appearance will be minimal compared to replacing the entire wire from the junction box to the outlet.

If electrical wiring aluminum, and it most often breaks, the soldering method will be unacceptable.

In this case, if the length of the broken end allows, you can use a terminal. On one side we insert the stripped broken end of the wire into it, on the other, a stripped piece of extension wire and tightly tighten the contact points.

Of course, this method creates extra bed contact where heating is possible, which creates a certain risk. Otherwise, you will have to replace the entire supply wire from the junction box to the wiring outlet from the wall.

This was a small digression, but let's move on to further installation. We have connected the wires and now we need to install the socket in its place in the box.

4. Attaching internal sockets.

Depending on the type of box, internal sockets are attached to it in two ways:

  • using fastening tabs;

The principle of their operation is simple. The mounting tabs have a curved configuration and resemble an “Archimedes lever”. When screwing in the bolts passing through the tabs, one side of the tab is pressed against the body, and the other, passing through the stop, is moved to the side. By alternately tightening the bolts on one and the other side of the body, the legs rest against the box and jam the body in the required position.

This method of fastening is practically no longer used at present. It is used only in cases where the socket is installed in a metal box, mainly in buildings from “Soviet” times.

The following mounting method is more convenient, easier and practical.

  • fastening the case with two screws;

Depending on the need, we orient the body in a vertical or horizontal direction. We direct the screws into the special holes in the box and tighten them.

The socket is connected to the network, secured in the box and the last step is to put the top cover in place, apply voltage and test the functionality by connecting the consumer.

Now you know how to install a socket. I look forward to your comments and will definitely answer everyone.

See you soon, and easy repairs to everyone.

In conclusion, a short video of installing a socket in a wall lined with plasterboard.

Sincerely, Ponomarev Vladislav.

DIY socket installation

Sooner or later, there comes a time when existing sockets no longer meet the needs of the owners, they have to be replaced or new ones installed. This article describes the most common options for installing these devices for various purposes and on various surfaces.

Safety rules and connections of conductors, selection of cable cross-section

Existing building codes do not limit the critical installation height of sockets and they are installed according to the current needs or desires of the owners. Of course, installing an outlet at floor level is not only impractical, but also unsafe, since water can get into it or dust can accumulate.

Ideally, each outlet is connected to its own distribution box. But it is also possible to power the new outlet from an adjacent one. In this case, the connection is made on the contacts of the previous socket, and not by twisting the conductors.

Since modern household appliances have greater power, the thickness of the new wiring must correspond to the maximum load on a given point of power consumption. If you plan to connect several consumers to the outlet, then the wire is selected according to the sum of their powers.

New wiring is usually done with copper wire.

But, if the old wiring is aluminum and it is not possible to install a terminal connection, then you will have to use aluminum wires.

Due to electrochemical corrosion of the metal, twisting copper and aluminum wires is strictly prohibited. Moreover, such connections cannot be tightly walled into the wall. It is permissible to wall up soldered copper wires, provided that the connection point is reliably insulated.

Installation of sockets in a concrete wall

Since concrete is difficult to groove, it is advisable to try to solve all the problems in the place of the old outlet. If moving the outlet is unavoidable, then work begins with marking the new installation location and the path of the new wiring.

Ideally even grooves are cut using a grinder. But this tool creates an unusually large amount of dust, so it is used only in unoccupied areas. In everyday life, a hammer drill is used for these purposes, but the best solution is a wall chaser with a connected construction vacuum cleaner.

Along the trajectory of the future wiring, holes are first densely drilled, and then, using a chisel, the jumpers are hollowed out. The neatness of the groove, of course, cannot be compared with cutting with a wall chaser, but the dustiness of the room compared to a wall chaser is several orders of magnitude less.

Chipping walls with a hammer drill for installing a socket video

The hole for the socket is drilled with an electric drill using a special attachment - a “crown”. The depth of the hole should correspond to the height of the outlet box. Ideally, the diameter of the box and the diameter of the nozzle are equal. Otherwise, the resulting hole must first be filled with construction plaster diluted with water (not putty - it is fragile!) or even cement mortar, and press the box itself into it so that there are no voids left around it.

Please note that the attachment must be specifically for concrete and have carbide cutters on the cutting surface.

Before installing the box, you need to make a hole in it, insert the ends of the wiring into it and put it in place in this form. The socket can be installed only after the solution has completely hardened.

Features of installing a socket in a brick wall

Brickwork has its own characteristics. Often in older houses the thickness of the plaster allows wiring to be laid directly into it. But you need to tap the plaster very carefully, since vibration can cause it to peel off from the brick base. Therefore, the procedure is performed with a grinder with a dust collection attachment.

If the wall in a private house is made of brickwork, then too large pieces will break off from the brick from the blows of the hammer drill. Therefore, only a grinder or wall chaser can be used for gating.

To drill a place for the box, the same crown is used as for concrete. As a last resort, if the brick is not very dense, you can drill many holes along the contour of the box and then carefully hollow out the middle part. The depth of the hole for installing the socket should be selected so that at least 2/3 of the height of the box is located in the thickness of the wall, and not in the plaster. The rules for installing the box are the same as for concrete wall.

How to install a socket in a plasterboard partition

The structural features of plasterboard partitions require a special approach. In this case, the wiring is laid at the stage of erecting the partition - before sewing the frame with plasterboard sheets. During the installation of drywall, a hole for the outlet box is selected at the installation site using a special cutter, and the ends of the wiring are immediately passed into it. If you drill two holes side by side, you will get double sockets.

For drywall, special, thicker and more rigid boxes are used, which have special clamping tabs that secure the box to the gypsum panel. The same technology is used to place the outlet on any panel surface, including plastic paneling, plywood and chipboard.

The wiring is pulled under the panels in the thickness of the partition. At intersections metal profiles frame, the wire is passed through a mounting corrugation or a suitable tube.

If foam plastic or other low-melting combustible material is used as a soundproofing material for the partition, the thickness of the wiring cross-section should be increased by one and a half times. This will eliminate heating of the conductors at maximum current in the outlet.

Surface-mounted sockets and features of their installation

If you need a socket, but there is no way to recess it into the wall, use overhead structures. The overhead socket is installed on any solid, level base. Overhead sockets - only possible option to create a connection point for built-in equipment.

As a rule, in these cases, the wiring is also not recessed into the walls, but runs along electrical boxes (cable ducts) or is laid under the baseboard. Overhead sockets are very convenient to install, repair and replace. Their only drawback is that they protrude strongly and can easily be knocked down by careless actions.

Rules and wiring diagrams

Please note that all wiring connections are carried out in a de-energized state! You should first mark the phase and neutral conductors in each box.

Since current standards do not regulate the relative position of the neutral and phase conductors, they can be connected in any order. However, if a box is used to install several sockets, then the phase should be connected to the same side of each of them, and the neutral wire to the other. A double socket in one housing has only one common pair of contacts.

It is usually customary to wire all sockets in a room uniformly. But also different connection is not considered an error.

Please note special attention on the reliability of connecting conductors to contacts and the immobility of installed sockets. If you don't tighten the contact or secure the socket poorly, sparking will appear over time and the wires will burn out. And this is already fraught with fire!

After connecting all sockets, the absence of short circuit between the wiring conductors, and only after that a phase is connected to it.

Bottom line

Despite the apparent complexity, moving or installing a new outlet is quite within the power of any of us. It is important to select the correct cable cross-section and follow safety rules and caution when connecting to avoid short circuits.

To connect an electrical appliance, you need a special device for this, called a socket. Any wiring carried out in an apartment or in a private house is unthinkable without it. And no one will argue with this! A reliably and correctly installed outlet can last for many years without intervention or repair. To install it without errors, you need to follow simple rules. But – first things first.

Brief classification

The variety of socket models produced will impress an inexperienced person in electrical engineering. Sometimes it’s hard to figure out what exactly is needed and will fit. To understand what to choose for specific purposes, sockets can be classified as follows:

  • For external and internal wiring;
  • Double and triple;
  • Overhead and built-in;
  • With increased moisture protection;
  • With a closing lid or curtains;
  • With ground loop;
  • With built-in timer;
  • Simple, without grounding;
  • Having a complex configuration and atypical connectors (for example, computer and telephone).


Sockets also differ in the shape and size of the sockets for the plug of the connected electrical appliance. Domestic models have a round shape, two or three sockets, and are designed for voltage of 220 or 380 V.

In a house or apartment, single or double sockets are usually installed under hidden electrical wiring under a two-pin plug. Less often - for external ones.

Most often, sockets are mounted in plasterboard, slag-filling, concrete and brick wall. The complexity of the work ultimately depends on this. In one case, the entire installation proceeds faster, in the other, difficulties arise with drilling the walls, attaching the socket box and preparing grooves for the wires.


Preparatory work

Planning is an important matter before the actual installation of electrical wiring and installation of sockets. It is necessary to take this seriously so that in the future a number of difficulties do not arise in the operation of electrical appliances, when something is missing in one place, and in another it experiences increased load.

At the planning stage and preparatory work need to:

  • Determine the location of sockets and connected devices;
  • Draw a wiring diagram;
  • Separately, for each room, calculate required quantity wires, sockets, switches involved in the installation process;
  • Prepare necessary tool, self-tapping screws, screws, screws, dowels;
  • Hollow out a niche for the socket box and grooves for laying the cable.

During the work you will need the following equipment:

  • A hammer drill with a diamond crown for preparing a niche for a socket box;
  • Screwdrivers with different blade configurations (flat and Phillips);
  • Pliers with wire cutters;
  • Wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm;
  • Sharp knife for stripping wires;
  • Socket box;
  • Plaster mixture, gypsum or cement mortar;
  • Socket of the required model and configuration.

Methods for installing sockets are available for viewing in numerous photos and drawings. They are simple and will not cause any difficulties even for a novice electrician:

  • Installation directly into the wall in a pre-installed socket box;
  • Overlay on a protected surface without digging into a niche (dielectric fire-resistant plates are used to secure the socket core to them).

A recess is first made for the socket box, in which it is placed with the wires installed on a cement or gypsum mortar.

We use a hammer drill with the necessary attachments and protect the respiratory system from dust.

After the construction mixture has dried and the glass of the socket box is held securely, we proceed to the direct connection and installation of the socket.


Step-by-step instructions for connecting and installing an outlet

If you take the device in your hands and pay attention to its structure, you will notice that it has 2 parts, one of which is placed inside the wall, the other is located outside.

We take a screwdriver in our hands and unscrew the bolt between the two sockets, separating the cover from the core. We see that in the ceramic base, near each contact there are clamps for connecting wire strands to them.

When the socket is grounded, there is a U-shaped bracket on the sides, located with the “legs” up, connected to the core with a rivet. It also has a contact clamped with bolts.

We take a knife in our hands and strip the ends of the wire from 10-15 mm of insulation. We insert them into the clamps and crimp the contacts. It is important to do this well so that the wires do not dangle. Otherwise, the socket will then spark, heat up, and its body will melt and burn.

After connecting the wires, place the core in the glass of the socket box, turn the screws on the sides with a screwdriver until its “paws” rest against the walls and sit firmly.

To prevent the socket from dangling later or falling out one day, you need to tighten everything well enough.

We put a frame that covers the screws and all connections (it usually snaps into place). Carefully screw the lid all the way. We do not apply much force, otherwise it may crack, as it is very fragile.

After you have installed a grounded socket with your own hands, you need to check the integrity of the insulation resistance, then turn on the voltage and measure it.

When everything is done correctly, the device should show 220 V. The socket is ready for use. There is nothing difficult about connecting it!

The only thing that is important is not to install new sockets, do not replace old ones under voltage, without observing any safety. Check for phase presence only with an indicator, not with your fingers. You cannot use a simple screwdriver or pliers to close the contacts to check the current in the socket.


It is also important, before directly installing sockets, to familiarize yourself with the PUE (a kind of electrician’s handbook), which popularly explains in which room, at what height, and how much electrical equipment and devices can be installed without the risk of overload and injury.

Prudence and concern for personal safety are the key to a long life. You must always remember this!

Photo of the socket installation process

Connecting an outlet is a responsible matter, requiring the performer to know the rules and nuances of electrical installation. The load on these electrical installation units is now rapidly increasing, and the current consumption sometimes reaches tens of Amperes. The slightest violation of the rules will result in overheating of the device and melting of the contacts, and serious flaws will “pave the way” to catastrophic consequences. Without figuring out how to connect the outlet, it is better not to start any actions with electrical wiring at all. But home craftsmen who have studied the issue will have no difficulties with either installation or subsequent safe operation.

Guidelines for choosing a method for connecting an outlet

Electricians are thoroughly familiar with all the nuances of connecting sockets. For them, this is a standard work operation that they have to perform every day. Home craftsmen who are ignorant of the intricacies of electrical networks have yet to become familiar with the connection steps. Let's start by examining the factors influencing the choice of connection scheme.

Type of socket and its effect on the connection diagram

Let us not, with masochism, unjustified by the probability of practice, “dig” into all the varieties of sockets existing on the planet. Let's consider three common types that are actively used in domestic spaces according to the persistent recommendations of GOST 7396.1-89. These are electrical installation devices:

  • Standard C 1a - sockets not equipped with grounding contacts. They are designed to work on a network section with values DC up to 10A, variable analogue up to 16A. Only low-power units that do not require grounding protection can be connected to them. Although they are required to maintain a load of 250 V;
  • Standard C 2a - sockets with lateral grounding devices. Therefore, their mechanism has an internal terminal for connecting the PE wire to it. The operating mode is similar, but unlike their predecessors, they can power powerful energy consumers. Used to connect washing machines, water heaters, electric stoves, pumps and other units, whose metal casing can invigorate the owner with a breakdown electric crack;
  • Standard C 3a - sockets equipped with a pin-type grounding contact. The difference with the previous type is only in the configuration and location of the grounding devices.

No special wisdom was discovered: the whole difference is in the elementary presence or in the simplest absence of contacts for. Those. if you plan to install an additional socket for an electric kettle, you can completely get by with the C1a device, and for powerful household electric machines you should select a grounded socket according to the standard size of the plug of the connected equipment.

The presence of a grounding terminal in the design of the operating mechanism of the socket affects the selection of cable:

  • To connect an electrical installation point without grounding protection, a cable with two cores is required. Only the neutral and phase wires need to be connected to the mechanism;
  • To connect to a home electrical network, a grounded socket will require a three-core cable - having a core for connecting to phase, ground and neutral.

You need to determine the cable not only by the number of functional cores, but also by size. Moreover, both the socket and the protective device for the site under construction should be selected according to calculations of the upcoming load. In general, it is not advisable to buy an electrical installation product that receives and transmits less than 16 alternating Amperes. It is better to immediately purchase “with a reserve” than to later exchange for a more powerful device.

Dependence of the installation method on the type of wiring

An important point that influences the choice of both the outlet itself and the method of its installation is the type of electrical wiring: open or closed. Those. The contractor should find out: the cable, switches and power points are reinforced on top of the walls, or the entire household is hidden in the penalty area.

Differences in the installation and connection of the outlet to an open or closed electrical network:

  • In the first, least labor-intensive case, the technician will have to fix a piece of wiring, most often on wooden wall. Then fastening the dielectric plate-socket, on which you will need to fix the working part of the socket. Then a decorative and protective case is put on the device. If an open line is laid or will be laid using a cable channel, then before performing the listed operations along the selected route, it will be necessary to first lay it.
  • In the second, tooth-breaking option, you will have to scrape the walls and drill a hole for one or a group of sockets. Then lay a piece of wire in the groove formed by the hammer drill. Once the electrical installation work is complete, you will need to plaster the grooves and holes. So it’s best to start improving hidden wiring before finishing.

In wooden country buildings, electrical wiring is traditionally laid open method. And in bathhouses, according to the strict instructions of the PUE, you cannot do without cable channels at all. This means that those who want to figure out how to install an outlet will need to study the technology for attaching these protective boxes before work.

Train or star: what to choose?

A little higher we talked about the cable for a reason. The socket needs to be connected to power, and not just fixed on the wall. To accomplish this, an independent electrician has only two options at his disposal:

  • Connection to a distribution box with a standard “star” configuration, according to which independent power lines are created;
  • Connection to the nearest existing outlet, forming a “loop” diagram, according to which electrical installation devices are located on the same power line “side by side”.

It is possible to “string” additional sockets onto one power beam of a star circuit if the cross-section of the cable with which the planned power point is connected to the circuit allows.

Example. The original 25A socket is connected to the junction box with a cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2.5 mm². This means that it will be able to perform the function of a loop source of electricity for a 16 A socket supplied with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm².

Which of these schemes is preferable will be determined by upcoming expenses. Of course, it is better to pull an additional line where it is closer. It's cheaper. However, there are situations with the unshakable dictate of the PUE: this is the installation of a socket for a powerful representative household appliances. The “loop” is not suitable for pumps, washing units, and boilers. Only the “star”, i.e. Only the distribution box is worthy of becoming its power source.

Pay attention to installation height

There are no strict rules for attaching sockets in height from the floor line in the domestic code electrical laws and PUE standards, nor in equivalent regulatory reference books in Europe. The main criteria are comfort combined with operational safety and cable consumption for connection.

The most convenient height is considered to be 30 cm from the plane along which we move. True, such an arrangement will be dangerous for curious children and animals if there are no protective curtains on the device body. By the way, sockets with curtains are highly recommended for organizing electrical circuits in actively humidified rooms.

Nothing and no one prevents the owner from choosing to install a socket 60 cm from the floor with various variations. You can do it right above the baseboard or under the ceiling, if there is a TV “hanging” on brackets in that area. The main thing is to retreat 15 cm or more downwards from the line where the wall meets the top floor and go around half a meter as required by the rules. gas equipment. And between the outline of the window opening and the electrical wiring branch, along with all attached devices, there must be at least 10 cm protecting against hypothermia, street dust and overheating.

Stages of connecting an outlet in a bathhouse

Let's consider the case of connecting a surface-mounted socket with grounding to the closest companion. We will follow the rules for forming a “trail”. Those wishing to connect the cable to the junction box will need to make separate branches using clip clamps or by twisting stripped wires followed by welding.

All actions with electrical wiring are performed when the circuit is disconnected from the power supply. It is recommended that after turning off the machine in the panel, immediately check and periodically monitor the presence of voltage in the network with a multimeter.

Step #1 - preparation for upcoming operations

You will need to prepare for work the power source and the directly connected object. It must be removed from the original socket. top part housing so that you can connect the cable. If the working mechanism is separated from the socket box, you need to unscrew the fastening screws and pull out the block with terminals.

The family of sockets for external wiring includes two varieties:

  • devices with a mechanism that can be separated from the socket plate;
  • devices with a mechanism structurally combined with an overhead socket box.

Both types can be analyzed in detail. With the first one you need to remove the body and disconnect the working element, with the second only the body.

Step #2 - connecting the cable to the power source

First, let's do a kind of fitting with a marker or felt-tip pen in hand. Let's take into account that:

  • Inside the box, all three wires (ground, phase, zero) must lie separately. This means that the general insulation that has surrounded all three conductors with a flexible tube must be removed from them;
  • The wires should be placed freely with some margin for the possibility of carrying out other activities with them. electrical installation work. In hidden wiring sockets, it is recommended to stock up 20 cm. Such a supply of wire runs the risk of not fitting under the cover of the overhead socket. Electricians advise cutting the exposed wiring cable exactly to size. So the fitting is carried out in order to find out how much can be left and how much can be cut off.
  • If a section of the circuit is laid without a protective box, the overall cable insulation must be inserted into the housing of the source to which we are connecting, at least 0.5 cm;
  • To form an impeccable contact, it is necessary to free all three wires of the connected cable from the “personal” insulation by 0.7-1.0 cm. We should not forget that these exposed sections of the cores will be located under the terminal screws, and not lie freely under the cover;
  • The wires in the socket must be arranged so that their stripped ends do not touch each other.

We tried on how to get it assembled. We noted how much insulation we would remove from the cable and from each of the cores. The general shell can be cut off without unnecessary fuss with a mounting or stationery knife, having previously marked a cutting line with it on the insulating tube. The insulation from the conductors must be carefully planed, as if sharpening a pencil. Cannot be cut in the same way as general insulating sheathing. The conductor may be damaged.

To ensure optimal contact, we roll up the exposed wire sections into rings. They then need to be lightly flattened with a hammer, due to which the contacting area will significantly increase, and we will get rid of overheating at the connection points. We place rings under the pre-loosened terminal screws according to color coding. We connect the yellow-green PE wire to the central contact. Determining the phase with zero is not of fundamental importance, because both conductors are designed to create power lines. However, it is advisable to adhere to the traditional marking range, because someday you will have to repair it.

We tighten the terminal screws with force, but without fanaticism. Otherwise, exposed wires will break off, especially if they are aluminum. We check the fastening for strength by diligently tugging on the connected wire. Having made sure of its reliability, we assemble the disassembled power supply and head to the installation site of the new outlet.

Step #3 - directly connecting the new outlet

The principles of wire preparation are similar, and the operating algorithm is similar. Only the start of the work will not be fitting, but fastening the socket box:

  • We apply the disconnected socket box or the platform combined with the working mechanism (depending on the design of the purchased device) to the wall being equipped to select the optimal position for installation;
  • Using a pencil, we thinly mark the outline of the socket box and its attachment points on the wall, then check the horizontal accuracy with a level gauge. You can screw the socket box of the surface-mounted socket to a wooden wall immediately after aligning the horizontal and vertical lines of the drawn lines. Fastening is done through the holes available on the installation platform using wood screws. To fix the overhead socket on a concrete or brick surface, first drill holes for dowels;
  • We connect the block with terminals to the fixed socket box, if it was not aligned;
  • By analogy with the method described above, we carry out another fitting;
  • Next, we form the rings, place them under the terminal screws and screw them in diligently;
  • Convincingly pull the wires near the created contacts;
  • Did anything fall off? Then, with peace of mind, we put on and fasten the housing cover with the supplied screw.

That's the whole order of work. Not difficult, right?

For those who want to know how to make a whole train of sockets at the same time, the described algorithm will also be very useful. They will have to invest more effort, they will have to tinker longer, but the actions will be exactly the same. They will simply repeat themselves periodically. The number of technological “turns” during the construction of a loop is equal to the number of electrical installation points.