Why is there air in the water from the well and what to do. Reasons for the appearance and methods of removing air in hot water supply systems of houses. How to remove air from the water supply in a private house from the pump to the tap Removing air from the water supply

I’ll try to describe my problem, maybe someone will have some thoughts...
I have a pumping station in a bathhouse, it has its own check valve and a small hydraulic accumulator at the inlet. Drawing water from a well about 20 meters long. The well has its own check valve and strainer. Automation on pumping station turns on the pump at 1.5 atm and turns off at 4. Sometimes problems arise with the fact that the pump cannot raise the pressure to that very 4 atm, breaking down somewhere at 3.8-3.9 and after a certain number of attempts it crashes with an error. I cannot determine the pattern of this phenomenon. It may fly out once a month, maybe 2 times a day. After a long period of inactivity there are no problems, rather during operation. There is enough water in the well both in terms of level and debit. The taps do not spit water, but airing of the pump and system occurs periodically. I’m struggling with this issue by simply running water with a pump for a couple of minutes through the outlet (the tap immediately behind the pump). At the same time, you can hear that air is also coming out of the system.
Eliminate completely possible problems I can’t with a check valve in the well (I don’t have the climate to go down there now...), but based on indirect evidence this is unlikely, because after a long period of inactivity of the pump the problem is not observed. Rather, it looks like air leaking during pump operation at maximum modes (at the end when the vacuum is maximum) through possible leaks in connections (for example, through the same heating cable gland).
In general, I think I’ll postpone the search for the cause until next season, but now I want to try to deal with the consequences...
Here I must say that my water supply system is not quite Feng Shui-style...
My hot water is prepared using a flow method through an indirect heat exchanger. There is a 500-liter heat accumulator tank, in which two successive spirals of corrugated stainless steel (18 or 20 mm I don’t remember) heat the water.
In this regard, my cold water and hot water systems are not separated in any way (there are no check valves).
Moreover, the system has another hydraulic accumulator (20 liters, I don’t remember exactly) common for cold and hot (since there is no safety valve) water and is located almost at the entrance to the heat exchanger. The air pressure in it is now about 2 atm.
This scheme was not made out of great intelligence, but simply based on a quick fix, because not all wiring has been completed yet (the attic floor is simply plugged for now). However, everything works quite normally in both cold and hot water. This second hydraulic accumulator allows, on the one hand, not to pull the pump when flushing the toilet and, on the other hand, to do without a safety valve and pressure surges in the hot water supply. I specifically checked this point. The pressure in the system is 4 atm, I heat the heat accumulator to 65C - no movement of the pressure gauge occurs.
So, almost everything is introductory, now I’ll try to reason...
1. Since the problem occurs sporadically, it means that the power of the pumping station in normal operation is sufficient to create the required pressure in my system (4 atm).
2. An occasional shortage of 0.1-0.2 atm indicates the appearance of a small amount of air (compressible medium) in the system, which the pump can no longer overcome, continuing to suck air into the system.
3. The absence of “spitting” from the taps indicates that there are no air pockets in the main lines.
Where can air be hiding and how to deal with it?.. As an option - in the second hydraulic accumulator (especially since its connection itself was made somewhat clumsily, I’ll take a photo later).
How to fight? Increasing/decreasing air pressure in the hydraulic accumulator, installing an air separator in front of it.
Thanks to everyone who finished reading... I would be grateful if someone expresses their thoughts.

Water supply pipes are designed to transport water, so air has no place here. However, air gets into the pipes. Why does this happen and why is the air in the water supply systems of private homes dangerous? Is it possible to prevent its penetration and how to remove air from the water supply system?

How dangerous is the air in the water supply?

Why does air appear in the water supply?

In our work, we focused on electric compression heat pumps because they are currently more competitive than gas absorbers, although the latter reduces their costs significantly. The car still heats up, but it consumes more. We're talking about costs: how much does it cost depending on the technology you choose?

Since air is the cheapest and easiest to install; air-to-water and water-to-water are more expensive because you need to add the costs of integration with the heating system, boiler and secondly, the well. Then a 10 kW heat pump for water, the size of which is suitable for a cottage, can cost about 5-6 thousand euros.

There are two reasons for the appearance of air in the water supply system of a home:

Outside. Air enters the pipes through leaky connections;
From the inside. Approximately 30 grams of air per 1 ton of water is dissolved in the water flow passing through the pipes. Gradually the air is released. The slower the water flows and the hotter it is, the faster the process goes. That is, in hot water supply systems the likelihood of air locks occurring is higher.

Air appears in the water supply systems of private houses for the following reasons:

In your work you have made various economic models. In what areas have you found that heat pumps provide the greatest savings? Highest level of convenience in commercial scrappers: in general, the payback period for these users is 2-3 years, shorter than domestic ones. This mainly depends on two factors. Firstly, there is usually no need to heat hot water in a business, so the cost of fitting a boiler or integrating a heat pump into the installation is lower. Secondly, commercial environments use heat pumps much more for summer air conditioning since these environments, unlike residential ones, have a lot of daytime activity.

when the water level drops, air can be sucked in through the check valve;
fittings with rubber seals are not tightened well;
in hot water supply systems, a process of cavitation is observed: steam is formed, air bubbles collect in the water, forming voids or cavities;
air in the water supply pipes remained from the first start-up of the equipment.

Air bubbles contain 30% more oxygen than atmospheric air. This explains the high oxidizing capacity of air in hot water supply systems. Air bubbles can be of various shapes: spherical - small, no more than 1 millimeter in diameter, mushroom-shaped, oval.

Can we give some rough estimate of the savings a heat pump can provide and how long it takes to see a return on the investment? In the simulation we made for the business sector, investments are repayable in 3-6 years without incentives, in 2, 4, 5 years with deductions and under 5 taking into account heat.

According to wells, many people who drift toward their own water supply often ignore water amenities. They will call when they are running out of withers or even clean water. Each spike well introduces even minor illnesses into the trench, which then calm down. It depends on the composition of the soil in which it is kicked. Wells in hard rock of this mining hazard that are good in murky mud should have been observed more.

In vertical pipes, bubbles rush upward or are distributed throughout the volume. In horizontal highways they stop at the highest points where they carry out destructive work.

When the water speed in the pipes is more than 0.5 meters per second, the bubbles move without stopping. When the speed exceeds 1 meter per second, the bubbles break into very small bubbles. It turns out like an emulsion of water and air. Air bubbles in the water supply system of a private house begin to collapse at a fluid speed of 0.25 meters per second. If it is lower, traffic jams may stagnate in some places for quite a long time.

The great danger of large layers of sediment at the bottom is the likelihood of infection by bacteria, which can enter the well not only with water, but also with weak clogging of the well. Sludge is good for them, anyone who wants to use water for drinking should keep this in mind.

Fountains are often faced with the fact that there is a water supply in a seemingly “dead” well that the owner has not known for a long time. It is impossible to say in general in what period of time it is found out, it usually passes once every two to three years, it may still remain on the well in a stone bed, but the condition of the well is checked twice a year. and there is no need to deal with moss on the walls, explains Elfer.

How to get rid of air in pipes

If there is already air in the water supply system of a private house, but it is not equipped with bleeders, you must:

Turn off the pumping station.
Open all drain taps and release water and air from the water supply system. After which the pipes are filled again.

You can remove air from the water supply system once and for all using bleed or drain devices:

Many people with a well-wisher will no longer be able to do this only for the price typical for classic football fans in five-meter depths from five thousand crowns. For people who use a well as their only source of water, as well as for drinking, this, of course, should include regular water testing.

He should definitely do a week or two after the sanctuary itself, when the spring is restored and the water in the well shows what is the source of the springs. It is not important to test the water immediately after an illness when it is being disinfected with chlorine agents.

mechanical valves such as the Mayevsky valve;
automatic air vents;
ball valves;
valves.

Mechanical valve device for air release from the water supply system is as follows: a cylindrical box, closed with a lid at the top, and a thread at the bottom for connecting to the water supply. There is a threaded plug in the middle of the lid. A plastic float in the shape of a ball is suspended inside the cylinder. If there is no air in the hot water supply system, the ball rises to the hole in the plug and closes it tightly under network pressure. As soon as air enters the device, the ball moves away and the air is released. Air can enter the system through the bleeders, which is useful when repairing or inspecting networks and speeds up the drainage of water.

But once a person invests in a hostage, it might not be a bad idea to do one test early and one before the hospital. This allows you to compare the difference between water quality and spring quality. Whoever polluted the water before and after it has a certain guarantee that the spring provides drinking water. And to conclude that he only neglected regular maintenance.

If contamination occurs within the next three days, it is worse. Obviously, water is obvious, and if it is to be used for drinking, it is necessary to find a water filtration specialist and prepare for a multi-level edition. Patience is not difficult for those who are afraid of hard and dirty work. However, he must adhere to several key principles.

Air removal devices are installed in certain places in the water supply system: at the very top ends, at bends or bends. That is, where there is an increased likelihood of air accumulation.

Homemade air accumulator

In rural water pipes, air often flows mixed with water. Using such a water supply is difficult and inconvenient, and the automation does not always cope: if there is a lot of air, the water overflows like a fountain directly from the valve. Therefore, instead of an automatic bleeder for air release, a air accumulator. You can make it yourself; it is a tank with an outlet pipe and a tap. The diameter of the drive must be 5 times larger than the diameter of the water pipe, then it can work effectively.

Especially in deep fountains there is a layer of poisonous gas. Therefore, it is necessary for the unfortunate person to come into the depths to secure the rope. In case of danger, his colleague can come out. After the shots you don't fall into a deep well, you need to get a stick with a rope. Don't even think about using a small mud pump from the hobby market for a thousand crowns. Often the spring is so fertile that even professional pumps do not place the “dry” well. And these are tools costing up to 40 thousand CZK with a three-phase electric motor.

Then it is not enough to use a rental company, prices range from 250 to 500 CZK per day, but you need to pay a deposit of about 10,000. With the wells we went to the hospital that the owners had neglected for 15 years. An old well in a 200-year-old building. Although the original hole was equipped with springs, no one thought about the wellbore around the cain. The old vaults and blocks have already begun to collapse, the remains of the gardens fall directly into the well. Now is the time to start with reconstruction.

The air accumulator is installed at the highest point of the water supply system, where it is convenient to bleed air manually. Air storage tanks are widely used in multi-storey buildings in hot water supply systems.

Automatic air vents

Devices for removing air from water supply systems are widely available on the market. Float valves are permanent air vents. They protect the operating system from the accumulation of air and gases. When the system pressure drops to atmospheric pressure, the float valve allows air into the pipes. To eliminate the cause of air in the water supply system of the house, a check valve is additionally installed. There are models of air vents already equipped with a check valve.

A few yards from the well there was a sewer service shaft and there was water. Homeowners have a condition on the springs, even after the exhaust is so strong that the pump barely shakes. In this situation, the person will remind you that an amateur pumpkin will not stand a chance.

Students are a "bit" pump, happy professional machines can be easily dismantled and cleaned, it will not spoil. About half an hour later it started from the bottom of the floor natural disaster, about three wheels were removed. After some time, the well began to fill, after which the water was purified under pressure and the spheres were checked. In this case it was strange, no cracks, no moss and no loose couplings between the rings, so no repair was required.

Starting air vents used to remove air when filling the system with water or to start air during drainage work.

Combined action air vents have the properties of both previously described devices.

When choosing an air vent, the volume of air released is taken into account. This indicator can be found in the characteristics of the device. You should not select a more powerful automatic air vent. Working half-heartedly, it will wear out faster.

These jobs cost about five thousand crowns, but the owner of the house is still waiting: let the boiler or cloud cover for the well. It is necessary to remove all half-shaved boards from the overloaded part to prevent further decomposition of the original stone structure of the well, which could spoil the water. Then fill and raise about a meter of well level to bury the well above floor level. And knock so that innocence does not fall. Moreover, the well is the only source of water for the owner and is also used for drinking.

For the correct operation of the air vent, the operating pressure in the water supply and the quality of the liquid are important. If the resource density is below 960 kilograms per cubic meter, specially designed floats are installed.

Video clip about the simplest air vent - the Mayevsky valve:

The students decided that they would come and take water samples in a week, and that they would call further work, which in this case would amount to several thousand more, but in this case it is an investment that pays off. Energy-efficient cooling methods are based on several basic principles.

Take advantage of day and night temperature differences.
Using cold from the ground.
Conversion of so-called sensible heat into latent heat.

The easiest way to exploit day and night temperature differences is through night ventilation. Prerequisites for its effective operation are structures with the ability to accumulate, that is, masonry or other dense material.

In water supply networks, air accumulations disrupt the constancy and uniformity of fluid (water) flow, and can also cause accelerated corrosion of pipelines and fittings. Therefore, it is very important to combat the formation of air locks and bubbles. In pressure systems, such gas either comes out of the water itself or is introduced from the atmosphere when the circuit is not completely sealed.

However, it should not cover insulation, ceiling carpet or drywall. The disadvantage of this measure is, of course, its dependence on the weather. Various radiator-cooled roof systems rely on the use of temperature fluctuations. These are roofs with removable thermal insulation or with radiators inside which water circulates. They represent a relatively effective solution, but their disadvantage is that they fail and are only used for above-ground buildings.

A special solution that can be labeled almost as an experimental system is roofs with thermal insulation floating on water. The water here serves as an accumulation layer, which is cooled by spraying over the roof surface at night. The accumulation of subsoil and the relative cold, stable below the surface of the earth, can be used directly or through water, which is then distributed to other devices.

A correctly calculated project and its competent execution completely eliminate air suction, and also do not give it a chance to accumulate in specific, permanent places (bends, turns or kinks in pipelines). As for the liquid itself, for every ton of resource there are about 30 grams of air mixture. Accordingly, the air in the water supply system is released more actively, the lower the pressure and the higher the temperature.

We use direct cooling with the soil, bringing air into the building accordingly. air ducts, through a recessed pipe 2-3 m below ground level. Such a device can also be used in winter, when due to low temperatures the air supplied to the soil is preheated.

Another option is to incorporate the soil directly into the building. With water we can either cool the air supply pipes or lead it to a water-air heat exchanger where we install the ventilation unit. In the same way, we can bring water up to a so-called chilled ceiling or a concrete ceiling in which a piping system is integrated precisely for this purpose. The source of such water is either a regular well or water from a well for heat pump or even river water.

Causes of air locks in pipes

This by-product contains approximately 32% oxygen, that is, there is a third more oxidizing substance here than in the atmosphere. The freely expressed form of these clusters is not the same. Only bubbles up to 1 mm can be considered spherical. A larger number may have an ellipsoidal or mushroom-shaped topology. On vertical sections water supply risers, air-gas inclusions rise upward or remain suspended. In horizontal pipelines they always “stick” to the walls at the highest point, which can create conditions for active rusting of the pipes

Converting sensible heat into latent heat

For cooling, a heat pump can be used directly and cooled by underfloor heating. The advantage of this action is that we preheat the earth's heat exchanger during the winter season. The conversion of sensible heat into latent heat is based on what is called adiabatic cooling. We use the fact that evaporation is cooled or energy, expressed as air temperature, is consumed by the process in which water changes from a liquid to a gaseous state.

When the water speed begins to exceed ½ m/s, air accumulations begin to move along with it. If the liquid flows in the circuit faster than 1 m/s, then the air in the water supply system breaks into tiny capsules and a kind of emulsion of gas and liquid is created. Practical observations have revealed that the minimum rate of destruction of such accumulations in a water supply system is about ¼ m/s. With a lower flow rate, air pockets can remain in the same areas for a long time, which is undesirable.

Therefore, heat is not consumed to increase the temperature of the water, but to make structural changes in the substance. We call the stored energy latent heat. Direct adiabatic cooling is achieved by spraying water into the air supplied inside. This type of cooling can be used in hot and dry climates or in special operations where we need high air humidity. This is an air conditioner called an air puck.

The advantage of direct adiabatic cooling is that it does not represent an investment that already has mechanical air conditioning installed, since air humidification is usually part of it. The disadvantage is higher maintenance requirements. The shower stall needs to be cleaned regularly to avoid dangerous bacteria.

The air-gas mixture can not only be released from the water, but also interact with it, and at the required flow rate, it can be destroyed or come out.

To get rid of air accumulations, various bleed/bleed devices are used. These include automatic air vents, mechanical valves (for example, the “Mayevsky valve”), and conventional shut-off valves (valves, ball valves). A standard regulator of this kind is made in the form of a cylindrical shell with a flat cover. In the center of the latter there is a threaded plug with a hole of 3-5 mm. A float ball made of polymer or cork is placed inside the body. When there is no air in the pipes, this element tightly closes the hole in the lid under the influence of network pressure. If an air accumulation appears in the device, the ball falls for a moment and allows this mixture to escape through the hole in the lid.

Air vents are also able to perform the opposite effect - to introduce a certain amount of oxygen into the pressure network. This happens accidentally or is necessary when quickly draining the resource before inspecting and repairing the water supply.

In order for the air in the water supply system to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to correctly install its release mechanisms at the required points. They are installed at the top points of pipelines, at kinks or bends, since this is where the air-gas mixture accumulates.

Causes of air locks in pipes

This by-product contains approximately 32% oxygen, that is, there is a third more oxidizing substance here than in the atmosphere. The freely expressed form of these clusters is not the same. Only bubbles up to 1 mm can be considered spherical. A larger number may have an ellipsoidal or mushroom-shaped topology. In vertical sections of water supply risers, air-gas inclusions rise upward or remain suspended. In horizontal pipelines they always “stick” to the walls at the highest point, which can create conditions for active rusting of the pipes

The air-gas mixture can not only be released from the water, but also interact with it, and at the required flow rate, it can be destroyed or come out.

aquagroup.ru

Air in the home's hot water supply system and pipes, its removal and discharge

How dangerous is the air in the water supply?

Why does air appear in the water supply?

There are two reasons for the appearance of air in the water supply system of a home:

Outside. Air enters the pipes through leaky connections;
From the inside. Approximately 30 grams of air per 1 ton of water is dissolved in the water flow passing through the pipes. Gradually the air is released. The slower the water flows and the hotter it is, the faster the process goes. That is, in hot water supply systems the likelihood of air locks occurring is higher.

Air appears in the water supply systems of private houses for the following reasons:

when the water level drops, air can be sucked in through the check valve;
fittings with rubber seals are not tightened well;
in hot water supply systems, a process of cavitation is observed: steam is formed, air bubbles collect in the water, forming voids or cavities;
air in the water supply pipes remained from the first start-up of the equipment.

In vertical pipes, bubbles rush upward or are distributed throughout the volume. In horizontal highways they stop at the highest points where they carry out destructive work.

How to get rid of air in pipes

If there is already air in the water supply system of a private house, but it is not equipped with bleeders, you must:

Turn off the pumping station.
Open all drain taps and release water and air from the water supply system. After which the pipes are filled again.

You can remove air from the water supply system once and for all using bleed or drain devices:

mechanical valves such as the Mayevsky valve;
automatic air vents;
ball valves;
valves.

The design of a mechanical valve for releasing air from a water supply system is as follows: a cylindrical box, closed with a lid on top, and a thread at the bottom for connecting to the water supply. There is a threaded plug in the middle of the lid. A plastic float in the shape of a ball is suspended inside the cylinder. If there is no air in the hot water supply system, the ball rises to the hole in the plug and closes it tightly under network pressure. As soon as air enters the device, the ball moves away and the air is released. Air can enter the system through the bleeders, which is useful when repairing or inspecting networks and speeds up the drainage of water.

Air removal devices are installed in certain places in the water supply system: at the very top ends, at bends or bends. That is, where there is an increased likelihood of air accumulation.

Homemade air accumulator

In rural water pipes, air often flows mixed with water. Using such a water supply is difficult and inconvenient, and the automation does not always cope: if there is a lot of air, the water overflows like a fountain directly from the valve. Therefore, instead of an automatic air bleeder, an air accumulator is installed in the water supply system. You can make it yourself; it is a tank with an outlet pipe and a tap. The diameter of the drive must be 5 times the diameter water pipe, then he can work effectively.

The air accumulator is installed at the highest point of the water supply system, where it is convenient to bleed air manually. Air storage tanks are widely used in multi-storey buildings in hot water supply systems.

Automatic air vents

1 - constant action air vent, 2 - variable action, 3 - double action.

Devices for removing air from water supply systems are widely available on the market. Float valves are permanent air vents. They protect the operating system from the accumulation of air and gases. When the system pressure drops to atmospheric pressure, the float valve allows air into the pipes. To eliminate the cause of air in the water supply system of the house, a check valve is additionally installed. There are models of air vents already equipped with a check valve.

Start-up air vents are used to remove air while filling the system with water or to start air during drainage work.

Combined-action air vents have the properties of both previously described devices.

For the correct operation of the air vent, the operating pressure in the water supply and the quality of the liquid are important. If the resource density is below 960 kilograms per cubic meter, specially designed floats are installed.

Video clip about the simplest air vent - the Mayevsky valve:

www.strojdvor.ru

Removing air from the water supply system

Even the highest quality water supply design and subsequent installation of the system cannot guarantee that excess air will not enter the system during operation. As a rule, air in the water supply system is a consequence of its insufficient tightness, but not only that. In fact, there are plenty of reasons why air in the water supply system provokes corrosion of metal elements and additional noise during its operation.

Where does air come from in water supply systems?

As a rule, water circulating through a pipeline, in addition to magnesium and calcium compounds, also contains air. When filled with water, the system automatically lets air in. The higher the water pressure in the pipeline, the more air enters the system. By the way, this fact should be taken into account when designing water supply.

Not all materials are impermeable to gases. For example, polyethylene pipes, which are often used for installing a water supply system, must have an anti-diffusion coating that prevents the penetration of oxygen into the system.

When installing a water supply, it is important to monitor the tightness of the system, especially at the connecting joints, since even the smallest leaks will cause air to enter the system.

Removing air from the water supply system: how to do it and why it is needed

Each water supply system must be equipped with an automatic air separator, which is designed to remove air during operation of the pipeline.

The most reliable way to remove air from a water supply system is to use a multi-level deaeration system, which involves removing air from individual elements of the system one by one.

Removing air from the water supply is essential for several reasons. Firstly, air causes corrosion in the pipeline, which will cause its premature failure. Secondly, excess oxygen in the water supply system improperly affects the operation of the pump, which may unplannedly fail ahead of schedule. And finally, oxygen in the water supply system causes noise, crackling and unstable operation of its individual elements.

Did you know:

otopleniye-vodosnabzheniye.ru

How to remove air from the heating system in a private house

Private house within the city or in the countryside - this is certainly good!

But in order to feel comfortable inside an individual home, you need to constantly take care of it.

This is especially true during the winter period.

It is necessary to prepare in advance for the onset of cold weather (this means preparing the heating system).

Reasons for stopping fluid circulation

Air trapped in the heating system interferes with the circulation of the coolant.

Ultimately, the home will not heat up as it should, fuel will be consumed in large quantities, and the worst thing that will happen in this case is defrosting of the system.

Air in the heating main of a private house can accumulate in various places, this contributes to the cooling of both individual sections of the batteries and the riser as a whole.

Of course, air should not be in the heating system, it has no place there, you need to remove it from there in any way known and available to you.

Below we will try to understand this issue and consider the main reasons for this phenomenon.

How can you tell if there is excess air in the system?

The following factors may indicate this:

Such situations, unfortunately, occur quite often.

Air lock, what does it mean?

The coolant, moving through the pipes, contributes to the formation of air pockets.

Over time, the pipes begin to vibrate and as a result, you can hear extraneous sounds:

crack,
the murmur of water.

In addition to oxygen, air contains carbon dioxide.

Under the influence of high temperature, sludge forms in the pipes, and carbon dioxide creates a favorable environment for the corrosion process of the metal to begin.

Air in the heating line interferes with the normal operation of the circulation pump.

When the system is operating normally, the bearings located on the pump shaft are constantly in water.

Once a plug forms, they undergo a “dry friction” effect. This generates heat, which can damage the shaft.

Some owners of private houses say that there are often times when it is practically impossible to bleed air from the system.

After air penetrates the system, a plug forms literally within a few hours.

What do you know about Mayevsky taps for 15 mm cast iron radiators? Read this useful article on how and where to install them yourself.

How to install a Mayevsky tap on a heated towel rail is written here.

On the page: http://ru-canalizator.com/vodosnabzhenie/truby-i-furnitura/sshityj-polietilen.html you will learn how to install cross-linked polyethylene couplings.

If the heating pipes in your house are made of aluminum (read about DC welding here) and there is a liquid of a certain composition inside them, a chemical reaction will regularly occur inside the pipes, during which oxygen and hydrogen are released.

These gases contribute to the formation of traffic jams.

How to avoid this?

The best way to get out of this situation - automatic air release using a spool, which is mounted on the batteries instead of the Mayevsky valve.

Possible removal options

Using a Mayevsky hand crane.
In order to begin work on bleeding air from radiators, you need to have on hand the appropriate tools, a basin for collecting water and a floor rag.

If a forced circulation pump is installed in an autonomous system, for example, in an electric titanium for boiling water, it must be turned off during the procedure.

Then, slowly, using a screwdriver, you need to turn the device counterclockwise one turn.

The air will come out of the radiator.

After this, the tap should be closed as tightly as possible.

The air vent is automatic.
This is a float-valve type device.

This mechanism is capable of independently releasing air from the heating system.

Its mechanism consists of:
brass body,
float,
articulated lever,
exhaust valve.

To prevent liquid leakage, the devices are equipped with a screw locking cap.

How does the system work?

If there is no air in the system, the float prevents the exhaust mechanism from opening.

As soon as it collects in large quantities in the float chamber, the displacer will lower and the outlet valve will open.

After the air exits, the buoy, under the action of the lever, will again rise to its previous position and close the outlet valve.

Air separator

Such devices are usually installed in large-volume autonomous systems.

The peculiarity of their work is the sampling of air from a liquid substance with its further transformation into bubbles and subsequent removal.

These devices are mainly produced in tandem with sludge separators.

Thus, it is possible to save space and, in addition, catch impurities, namely:

dirt,
sand,
rust.

The separator consists of a metal body, in its upper part there is an air vent, and in the lower part there is a valve for removing sludge.

Inside the cylinder, there is a special tube with a soldered metal mesh.

The heating system water passes through it. It is this grille that generates strong rotational flows of coolant, which slow down and lift small air bubbles upward.

In this way, the converted air is removed outside through the air chamber. Dirt accumulated inside the batteries is removed through the drain valve located below.

Multi-stage system.
To ensure that you do not have problems associated with the formation of air jams, you need to, even at the initial stage of drawing up project documentation autonomous system heating, do not forget about one thing, very important point.

This is a multi-stage air exhaust system from individual groups of heating devices.

At the same time, for them it is necessary to use various modifications of air vents and they should be installed in different places:

to bleed air from the heat exchanger heating device, install an automatic air vent directly on the boiler or boiler indirect heating(what is it)
each individual collector must have its own air vent,
on all radiators, it is necessary to install Mayevsky manual taps,
for risers, the best option is special devices that are mounted at the highest points of the system.

It is impossible to bleed air from radiators under high water pressure.

Otherwise, the coolant will form large number dissolved oxygen, and then removing air from the system will be much more difficult.

In order to carry out all the work on bleeding air from an autonomous heating system according to all the rules, you need to use the help of another person.

It is difficult to carry out the procedure yourself.

One person must fill cross-linked polyethylene pipes for heating (price) with water and at the same time monitor the readings of the pressure gauge, and the second, at this time, releases air from the radiators (until the pressure reaches two bar).

At this moment, it is necessary to turn off the recharge.

And while the first person is busy replenishing the system with tap water, the second is working with Mayevsky’s taps.

How to restore heat supply

First of all, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the plug in the pipes (the assortment of galvanized steel is written in this article).

Once this issue has been clarified, you need to find the manual or automatic valve that is closest to the problem area.

Then, opening the tap slightly, we bleed the air through this mechanism.

The standard method is not always effective (watch the video on how to bleed air through the Mayevsky tap here).

If all of the above methods turned out to be ineffective, you can try to squeeze out the plug by increasing the pressure and temperature of the coolant in the system (the indicators should be close to the maximum).

The plug, moved from its place, enters the relief valve.

If these actions are unsuccessful, you will have to use the nearest detachable connection. The work must be done very carefully; if you neglect the safety rules, you can get burned and flood the whole house hot water.

Accumulated air in the heating system with elevator unit private house, can be removed by draining the water using an expansion tank.

The plug will come out on its own if the water in the circuit is brought to a boil.

Conclusions

So, we have found out the following, in order for the heating system of a private house to function quite efficiently, you need to do everything competently installation work and operate the highway correctly.

Also, it is necessary to ensure that air does not accumulate inside the system and plugs do not form.

To bleed air, you need to use special equipment and devices.

Only in this way can you create comfortable conditions for living in a private home, and your heating system will work flawlessly.

How to bleed air in the heating system of a private house, watch the video.

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ru-canalizator.com

How to remove air from the heating system in a private house using a pump

After completing the installation of the heating system, it is necessary to fill the pipelines with water or another type of coolant. At this stage, each user is faced with the question of operating heating with maximum performance. Poor quality heating of residential premises occurs due to air in the pipes, which sometimes leads to freezing of the coolant. Next, we will get acquainted with the reasons that lead to air formations and methods that allow us to remove air from heating.

Why do air pockets form?

At the moment, several reasons for the formation of air locks in the heating system are known:

improper filling of the circuit with coolant;
failure of plumbers to comply with standards for slope and bending of pipelines;
leaky connection of individual components or heating devices, which can lead to repair of the heating system;
absence or malfunction of air vents;
To repair risers or replace shut-off valves, it is better to use the services of a specialist. If you independently dismantle and install additional devices, air may enter the system.

Important! When topping up the heating circuit with cold water a certain amount of oxygen enters the pipelines. The air concentration increases when the coolant heats up, which can cause the formation of an air lock.

How does air affect heating?

Areas with accumulated air lead to uneven heating of the radiator surface. The cold part of the heating device indicates an accumulation of gases; there is no coolant in this place. The radiators do not heat up well and will not be able to heat the room even when pumping coolant using a pump.

Many people know what the pressure in the heating system should be. closed type, but when air pockets form, the user may hear bubbling, crackling or other extraneous noises. The air that enters the pipes consists of certain proportions of carbon dioxide and oxygen. These components take part in the formation of carbon dioxide. High coolant temperatures transform this component into deposits on the walls of pipes and radiators. In addition, carbon dioxide can cause metal destruction.

Important! Presence of air in autonomous heating in a private house leads to failure of the circulation pump. Without contact of the impeller with the liquid, the device bearings are in dry friction, which negatively affects the operation of the unit.

Types of air vents

The Mayevsky tap helps remove the air lock. This small brass device allows you to ventilate the circuit with your own hands without calling a specialist. The main parts of the valve are:

cone screw.
metal case.

The faucet parts fit tightly to each other, which allows you to maintain the coolant pressure. The air from the batteries exits through a special hole in the Mayevsky tap. The air vent is opened:

fingers;
special key;
screwdriver

Important! Starting heating in the apartment after installation should include de-airing mandatory.

To remove an air lock using a Mayevsky tap, you must:

Turn off the circulation pump;
Turn the valve counterclockwise with a screwdriver and wait until the air bleeds.
When water begins to flow out of the hole, the device is closed.

To bleed air from the heating system, you can do without a Mayevsky tap. Some users install a valve-float type device on the circuit, which independently releases accumulated gases. The automatic air vent consists of the following components:

brass body;
exhaust valve;
articulated arm;
float.

Locking screw caps help prevent coolant leakage in this device. An air lock forms in a place where there should be a pressure drop in the heating system. If there is no accumulation of gases in the system, the float of the automatic air vent closes the valve. When oxygen appears, the float lowers and opens the valve, which leads to the release of air.

If there are no Mayevsky taps, an air separator will help get rid of accumulated gases. Such devices are installed in a large circuit of an autonomous heating system. The separator not only removes air efficiently, but also removes particles of rust, dirt and sand. The device consists of a cylinder and a valve for discharging sludge. A mesh is installed inside the tank, which creates a vortex of the coolant, which helps remove small air bubbles. Accumulated dirt particles are removed through the drain valve.

You can remove air from the heating system yourself in several ways. If this fails, leave a request on the website and our specialists will come to your aid. For advice on any questions related to heating, call

master-santekhnik.ru

Good afternoon. I want to understand the reason why the water supply system in my dacha is not working properly. Water is supplied to the house by a pump from a well. In the house there is a check valve in front of the hydraulic tank. After the hydraulic tank, the filter and then the water heater. Next is the sink. When I open the mixer with cold water, the water flows with even pressure, and if I also open the hot water, then at first it flows well and a few seconds later it starts to “spit” a little. Air is being sucked in somewhere... However, there are no leaks, the pressure in the system does not drop!! How to solve the problem?? Help with advice, please.. Yuri

Hello, Yuri.

It’s a pity that you didn’t indicate what kind of “hydraulic tank” you have installed - a freestanding membrane one, as part of a water supply station, or an open one. It is also unknown what type of water heater you are using: electric storage, electric instantaneous or gas. And what does “starts to spit a little” mean? “A little” - how is that? Since you decided not to pamper our experts with an abundance of information about the features of your cold and hot water supply system, it is not a fact that our answer, compiled on the basis of fragmentary data, will satisfy you. Let's try to go the logical route:

If the “hydraulic tank” is closed membrane tank, in an area where there is increased pressure, air leaks cannot occur. If there was a leak, there would not be a leak, but rather a leak. The area where air can enter the system is the supply hose if you have a surface pump installed. Theoretically, a submersible pump can also pick up air if the water surface periodically drops to the water intake level. The automatic safety system turns off the pump before the system becomes airy and the level rises again. It is unlikely that everything coincides so exactly, but it cannot be ruled out. However, if there was a leak, air would also get into the cold water. So this is unlikely to be the reason. Unless there is an air trap installed on the cold water line.
Air can enter the pipes if the check valve installed in front of the “hydraulic tank” does not hold. The water in the hose flows under its own weight into the well, negative pressure is formed and air is captured somewhere (for example, in an open mixer). The likelihood of this is low, but still.
Air can enter the hot water supply if you have an open storage tank installed rather than a membrane one. The pressure is low, the supply to the water heater is separate and somewhere on the way to it there is a leak in the pipe. The level in an open tank can also “jump” if the filling valve does not always work.
If air does not penetrate the system from the outside, it means that it is formed inside. Well water contains dissolved oxygen and other gases. When heated, they release in the form of bubbles. In this case, the liquid does not necessarily have to boil; the transition of oxygen from dissolved to gaseous state also occurs at a temperature slightly above room temperature, intensive process starts at 50-60 ºС. The higher the temperature, the more active gas formation occurs. If you have a storage water heater installed, air may accumulate in the upper part during the heating process.

There is a space in the upper part of the water heater where the extraction tube does not reach hot water. Under certain conditions, tens of liters of compressed air can accumulate there, which causes the mixer to “spit” for some time after opening the hot water tap.

The amount of air will be greater if the water heater is installed at the highest point of the water supply. Another reason that increases the rate of gas accumulation is the incorrect operation of the automatic heating of the storage electric boiler due to a malfunction of the boiler safety valve. By the way, if tap water has high carbonate hardness, after two or three years the valve “overgrows” with salt deposits. There is water in the tube going to the faucet. After opening the hot water valve, it drains, the system captures water, and the faucet “spits.” If a similar phenomenon occurs after you have not used hot water for some time and after a couple of minutes the flow is restored, we are on the right track. Another sign is too hot water. Disconnect the boiler from the power supply and try to spill unheated water. There is no air - which means the reason why the faucet is spitting has been established.

What to do? First replace safety valve and reduce the heating temperature. It did not help to install a deaerator at the top point of the system, preferably placing it on a U-shaped outlet (jumper), where gases can accumulate without blocking the flow.

An automatic deaerator costs more than a regular one, but saves time and nerves

If the mixer “spits” constantly, check the aerator; simply unscrew it from the spout.
Some filters, or rather water treatment systems, can aerate water. The simplest mesh filters are not capable of this, but if the installation is complicated, try bypassing the water for a while or at least removing the cartridges.
Gases may be released during the electrochemical reaction. This can occur due to direct contact between different metals, such as copper and aluminum. Metal fittings must be connected through rubber gaskets, FUM tape, and tow.

Correct electrical installation diagram storage water heater. Do you have a safety and check valve installed?

stroy-aqua.com

Simple self-diagnosis of typical faults in the hydraulic accumulator of the water supply system of a private home.

I have long had suspicions that the plumbing system in my house was not working properly. Yes, everyone never got around to doing this in earnest. Well, everything seems to be working, so why bother going there? This is where, perhaps, the first question comes up. What kind of external signs should force a homeowner to pay especially close attention to their water supply? It’s very simple - you take a shower and suddenly feel it “in your own skin.” sudden changes from cold to hot and vice versa,

Sometimes cold water comes out of the tap with normal pressure, but sometimes it’s not particularly vigorous, but “like a sloth” it flows,
more often than usual you hear that the pump of the pumping station turns on (for example, a simple method, if you have a 50-liter hydraulic accumulator installed and after two flushes of water from the toilet in a row, the pump already turns on - that means you have a problem - you need to figure it out and fix it).

These are the first signs that it’s time for the homeowner to roll up his sleeves again and start finding out what exactly is wrong with his water supply. Well, the first step is quite simple and accessible even to our fair half. We open one single tap in the whole house - the cold tap( without any admixture of hot!) water. We watch how water flows from the tap until the water supply pump starts (hear this). We heard that the pump started, closed the tap, waited (heard again) until the pump turned off. That's it, now your accumulator is full. Take a 5-liter container (for example, an empty Shishkin Les water bottle) and, with all the taps in the house closed, using only one tap of cold water (no hot water at all!) fill this container . The goal is to find out exactly how many liters of cold (without hot!) water must be drained in order to force the pump to turn on. (Next I give all the volumes for a 50 liter hydraulic accumulator - since that’s exactly what I have). Op, we filled one container - 5 liters, drained it, but on the second run we didn’t even fill half of the container, but the pump had already turned on. Thus, draining only 7 liters of cold water from a full hydraulic accumulator forced the pump to turn on. This is a very small volume; in a normally operating system such a system would have to drain not 7, but all 15 liters before starting the engine. So, let’s figure it out further. Armed with a tire pressure gauge, In the same way that you check the air pressure in the tires of your car (buy yourself another one of these, exclusively for the boiler room), we approach the hydraulic accumulator of your water supply pumping station. We find the nipple thread on the hydraulic accumulator (often closed with a round plastic cap, which you just need to twist until it comes off). We measure (as in a car tire) the air pressure in the accumulator. There are possible options. If you are trying to measure the air pressure and water is spraying out of the accumulator nipple, this is a problem with a “leaky bulb” of the accumulator. You will have to tinker. You will have to either buy a new bulb or (which is much less reliable) try to repair the old one. If no water flows but the pressure meter does not show air pressure (shows 0, or shows less than 1.4 bar). If it shows less than 1.4 bar. Turn off power supply to the pump, open somewhere (where convenient) a cold water tap, wait until water stops pouring from the open tap (the water pressure gauge at the pumping station will show 0). We connect a regular car pump to the accumulator nipple (buy yourself another car pump, exclusively for the boiler room) and download. Get ready for the fact that you will have to pump for a long time and persistently - the volume of the air cavity of the hydraulic accumulator is large. We pump and monitor how much we pumped using the pressure gauge that is built into your pump. Pumped up to 1.4 bar. Stop. You can't go too far here! We removed the pump from the nipple. Let's check ourselves by poking the accumulator nipple with a tire pressure gauge - it should show a value close to 1.4 bar. Now turn on the power supply to the pump and wait until it pumps the full hydraulic accumulator with water and automatically turns off. Continue like this. Again we poke the tire pressure gauge, now already in a hydraulic accumulator completely filled with water:

if the tire pressure gauge shows you “a lot” - noticeably higher than 1.4 bar, well, for example, 2.7 bar, then write down this result and consider that you may have gotten away with a slight fright. Then, just regularly, once a day, For three days, use a tire pressure gauge to monitor the air pressure in the accumulator and, if it has become as high as what you wrote down. You can relax, check the pressure on a full hydraulic accumulator once a month and, as it has decreased, pump up to the same value that was recorded (however, once a year, drain all the water again and make the air pressure 1.4 bar in an empty hydraulic accumulator).
but if the tire pressure gauge again shows you 0 (or much less than 1.4 bar), then we are out of luck. This means that the air cavity of the hydraulic accumulator allows air to pass through - “the housing is not sealed.” The hydraulic accumulator simply does not work as it should. You will have to tinker with this, and more on this later.

Why does water from a well come with air?

Where does air come from in water supply systems?

When installing a water supply, it is important to monitor the tightness of the system, especially at the connecting joints, since even the smallest leaks will cause air to enter the system.

Removing air from the water supply system: how to do it and why it is needed

Each water supply system must be equipped with an automatic air separator, which is designed to remove air during operation of the pipeline.

The most reliable way to remove air from a water supply system is to use a multi-level deaeration system, which involves removing air from individual elements of the system one by one.

How dangerous is the air in the water supply?

Why does air appear in the water supply?

There are two reasons for the appearance of air in the water supply system of a home:

Outside. Air enters the pipes through leaky connections;
From the inside. Approximately 30 grams of air per 1 ton of water is dissolved in the water flow passing through the pipes. Gradually the air is released. The slower the water flows and the hotter it is, the faster the process goes. That is, in hot water supply systems the likelihood of air locks occurring is higher.

Air appears in the water supply systems of private houses for the following reasons:

when the water level drops, air can be sucked in through the check valve;
fittings with rubber seals are not tightened well;
in hot water supply systems, a process of cavitation is observed: steam is formed, air bubbles collect in the water, forming voids or cavities;
air in the water supply pipes remained from the first start-up of the equipment.

In vertical pipes, bubbles rush upward or are distributed throughout the volume. In horizontal highways they stop at the highest points where they carry out destructive work.

How to get rid of air in pipes

If there is already air in the water supply system of a private house, but it is not equipped with bleeders, you must:

Turn off the pumping station.
Open all drain taps and release water and air from the water supply system. After which the pipes are filled again.

You can remove air from the water supply system once and for all using bleed or drain devices:

mechanical valves such as the Mayevsky valve;
automatic air vents;
ball valves;
valves.

Air removal devices are installed in certain places in the water supply system: at the very top ends, at bends or bends. That is, where there is an increased likelihood of air accumulation.

Homemade air accumulator

In rural water pipes, air often flows mixed with water. Using such a water supply is difficult and inconvenient, and the automation does not always cope: if there is a lot of air, the water overflows like a fountain directly from the valve. Therefore, instead of an automatic bleeder for air release, a air accumulator. You can make it yourself; it is a tank with an outlet pipe and a tap. The diameter of the storage tank must be 5 times larger than the diameter of the water pipe, then it can work effectively.

The air accumulator is installed at the highest point of the water supply system, where it is convenient to bleed air manually. Air storage tanks are widely used in multi-storey buildings in hot water supply systems.

Automatic air vents

Starting air vents used to remove air when filling the system with water or to start air during drainage work.

Combined action air vents have the properties of both previously described devices.

For the correct operation of the air vent, the operating pressure in the water supply and the quality of the liquid are important. If the resource density is below 960 kilograms per cubic meter, specially designed floats are installed.

Video clip about the simplest air vent – the Mayevsky valve: