So, briefly about compost.
Every year, humus disappears from the surface of your garden by 2-3 percent in height as it gives up its nutrients. And another figure: compost contains only up to 10 percent humus.
Composting lasts 6 months in spring and summer. And in the fall it must be distributed throughout the site so that by spring it is ready for work. It can either be added when digging, or simply laid in a layer around trees, shrubs and generally throughout the entire planting area.
What does a compost heap consist of:
Grass from a lawn mower gives a lot of nitrogen, so you don’t need to put all of it, but in moderation, the rest is simply thrown away, but not in the compost.
Wood ash is an excellent potash fertilizer.
Wood sawdust.
Remains of vegetables and fruits, but if before sale they were treated against the sprouting of shoots, potatoes, for example, then of course we don’t put them in compost, otherwise nothing will grow. I don’t know how to check this, but in general, we don’t add potato peelings from potatoes bought in large markets.
Cardboard egg boxes and toilet paper rolls (we don’t put dyed ones). They are needed to dilute the nitrogen in the compost.
Torn newspapers.
Branches after pruning bushes and trees, but they need to be chopped. If you don't grind it, the water will be retained in the pile.
Manure from domestic animals. It’s better not to take it from large farms (they use a lot of medicines....but a comment).
Straw.
Coffee grounds - rich in nitrogen and oligo-elements, can be thrown along with filters, especially if they are not made of white paper.
Bags of tea, herbs (sleeped, of course).
Eggshell.
Cheese and ham crusts.
Walnut shell.
Nettle before flowering.
Conifer needles, they oxidize the soil well. My roses love them very much :)
Water from an aquarium with algae.
Hair, fur, feathers.
Withered flowers.
Avoid weeds with already formed seeds (that is, during and after flowering), we also do not put roots, meat, which can attract rodents and God forbid not their best representatives in the form of rats.
Lay the pile in layers so that you can easily turn them around, that is, do not compact them. Water each new layer with water, since dry filling will not decompose quickly. How much water is hard to say, depends on the composition of your pile. Water so that the bottom of your pile does not turn sour, well, in general, by eye, in order to moisten (and not drown) the compost, especially in the heat. If you water the garden with a hose, walk over the heap with rain. Sometimes it is advised to sprinkle the layers with earth, a little. Well, stir it all up so it doesn’t cake. Do not mix the layers, but stir them. Insert a strong stick between the slats and lift the layers to allow air to pass through.
Relationships between neighbors are an age-old problem: this one planted a tree in the wrong place, that one put a barn in the wrong place, or a fence of the wrong configuration, if you apply the rules below, you will be able to avoid many conflict situations.
Most often, disputes arise about the distance between buildings and trees on both sides. It wouldn’t hurt many people to know the distance from a residential building or garden house neighbors can dig a cellar, erect a garage and other buildings. And how to count - from the wall or from the blind area?
All these issues are regulated by Building Codes and Regulations (SN and P). Unfortunately, it was not possible to find a document on the current rules, and therefore the distances given here should be considered as indicative.
We kindly ask readers who deal with these issues (land managers of regional, district and village councils) to send a list of these documents and an excerpt from these rules corresponding to the information provided here.
All distances are measured from the wall.
The fencing of your site in order to minimize shading of the territory of neighboring sites should be made of mesh or lattice. By decision of the general meeting, the installation of solid (wooden or brick) fences is allowed, but only on the side of streets and driveways. Fire distances between buildings within the same area are not standardized. But the distances between buildings located on adjacent plots must be at least 6 m for buildings made of stone and other non-combustible materials and at least 15 m for wooden ones.
The residential building must be at least 5 m from the street line, and at least 3 m from the driveway line. Distance from outbuildings no less than 5 m is established to the line of the street and driveways. The minimum distances to the boundaries of the neighboring plot should be as follows (in meters): from a residential building - 3; from construction for keeping small livestock and poultry - 4; from other buildings - 1; from the trunks of tall trees - 4, medium-sized ones - 2; from a bush - 1.
For sanitary and living conditions, the following minimum distances are legalized (in meters): from a residential building to a toilet - 12, to a shower, bathhouse and sauna - 8; from the well to the toilet and compost pit - 8, to the building for keeping small livestock and poultry - 12; from the cellar to the compost pit and buildings for small livestock and poultry - 7.
The specified distances must be observed both between buildings on your site and between those located on the neighboring site.
In other words, a neighbor, for example, does not have the right to build a bathhouse closer than 8 m from your house, and you, in turn, cannot place your toilet closer than 8 m from your neighbor’s well, and so on. Blocking (adjoining, combining) a residential building with outbuildings is allowed. In this case, for example, premises for small livestock and poultry must have an isolated external entrance located no closer than 7 m from the entrance to the house.
A car garage can be either free-standing, built-in or attached to a residential building or outbuildings. And it must be installed at least 1 m of the border with the neighboring plot (the garage belongs to the “other buildings” group).
As for the cellar, it is not considered a building and there are no rules for its location relative to the neighbor’s house. It is only important not to place it close to the toilet and compost pit.
Organization of rainwater drainage from roofs to neighboring plot is strictly not allowed. The use of cesspools (outdoor toilet) must be agreed upon in each specific case with the sanitary and epidemiological service institutions.
A few words about gas supply. Cylinders for liquefied gas with a capacity of more than 12 liters should be located in an extension made of non-combustible material or in a metal box near blank external walls and no closer than 5 m from the entrance to the building.
From all that has been said the following follows. Violation of the requirements for the development of a land plot is grounds for bringing the perpetrators to justice. In some cases, it will not be possible to get away with a fine and compensation for damages to neighbors (for example, in the case of shading of the site). The court may even require the demolition of an unauthorized building or the cutting down of improperly planted trees.
Do you comply with these requirements?
The information is partially taken from the Internet.
A good man will always press the button
Before building a house, you should obtain a building permit (Town Planning Code, Art. 51, Part 17) from the authority local government. This document is necessary for further construction, as well as the legal commissioning of the finished building. When developing a site, building codes and regulations must be observed. SNiPs only recommend certain standards, and the final provisions are approved by local authorities, based on the regional characteristics of the territory. However, all regional legal acts rely on SNiPs, regulating and clarifying some provisions.
We comply with SNIP for outbuildings
At the moment, the main document is “ Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures» SNiP 30-02-97, which should be followed when developing the site. Here are the rules it contains:
Fire distance.
Between outer buildings and groups of buildings it must be at least 6 m (between wooden frame buildings - 15 m).
Water disposal.
Rainwater from the roofs of neighboring buildings should not flow onto your property.
Distance from buildings to the roadway.
The garden house should be located at least 5 m away from the border (red line) of the street, at least 3 m away from the driveway, and outbuildings should be installed no closer than 5 meters.
Distance from home to outbuildings
In accordance with the same SNiP, a barn, bathhouse or other outbuilding can be adjacent to the house, but the premises for small livestock and poultry must have a separate entrance located at a distance of 7 meters or more from the entrance to the house. The garage can be freestanding, attached or built into an outbuilding or house, subject to all sanitary and fire safety standards. No permit is required for the construction of a garage (Town Planning Code, Article 51, Part 3).
Distance from the boundaries of the site to buildings and plantings.
Minimum distance from the building to the border of the site
(from the fence to the garden house) – 3 m; to a barn or other building for keeping small livestock and poultry – 4 m; to other buildings and bushes – 1 m; to tall trees – 4 m, to medium-sized trees – 2 m.
House height and barn height: norms
When designing houses for permanent residence, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of SNiP 2.08.01 and SNiP II-3. The height of residential premises should be at least 2.2 m, outbuildings - SNIP recommend building a height of at least 2 m, and in the cellar - at least 1.6 m to the lower edge of the protruding structure (beams, etc.).
When developing a territory, you should also pay attention to whether the land plot or residential building is shaded. According to standards, insolation of residential premises (exposure to direct sun rays) in the period from March 22 to September 22 should be at least 2.5-3 hours a day. Therefore everything high fences, trees and buildings should be located in accordance with SNiP 30-02-97 “Planning and development of territories of gardening (dacha) associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”
Fences.
Garden (dacha) plots should be fenced in such a way as to shade neighboring plots as little as possible. Mesh or lattice fences 1.5 m high are suitable for this, but blind fences can be installed only from the side of the street and roadway (but not from the neighbors) and only by decision of the general meeting of SNT. True, if you manage to come to an agreement with your neighbor, securing this in writing, and the board of the partnership, then you can build a “Berlin” wall.
The minimum distance from the border of the neighboring plot to the buildings should not be less than 1 m - this is how this issue is resolved (SNiP clause 6.7), and the slope of the roof of the outbuilding should not be directed towards the neighboring plot. In accordance with the Decree of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation dated March 13, 2001 No. 17 (clause 7.4), it is recommended that the setback from outbuildings and structures to the boundaries of neighboring plots located on the eastern, western, northern and intermediate sides be no less than the height of these objects (measured from the ground to the ridge of the roof).
The proximity of a well and a compost pit, a latrine.
The distance between them must be at least 8 m. A minimum of 12 meters must separate the bathhouse, sauna, shower, as well as buildings for small livestock and poultry from the well. The same distance should be maintained between the garden house, cellar and restroom, and showers, baths, saunas should not be placed closer than 8 meters. Far from the cellar (location 7 meters away) you will have to build a chicken coop or pigsty, as well as a composting area.
The toilet, familiar to many summer residents, in the form of an uninsulated pit and a “birdhouse” is prohibited by the same SNiP (clause 8.6 and clause 8.7). If there is no central sewer system, then feces must be removed using local composting devices or using cesspools.
Local composting devices include powder closets (a toilet in which faeces are covered with peat and kept in a well-insulated container, in a box coated with resin or similar material, with a closing lid, etc., until compost is formed) and composting toilets ( a device where, using electrical heating or chemical additives, fecal waste is converted into organic fertilizer).
Cesspools should also be well insulated to prevent their contents from clogging groundwater and land. Even at the development stage, the project should be given for approval to local authorities for the regulation, use and protection of groundwater, and the placement of such a toilet on its site should also be agreed with the SES. Backlash closets (a warm indoor latrine with an underground cesspool) cannot be installed in climatic region IV and subdistrict IIIB.
You can’t just throw away the soapy water after washing either. All wastewater after a shower, bath, sauna or household work should be poured into specially designated places - filter trenches with a layer of gravel and sand or other wastewater treatment plants(SNiP clause 8.8). An external ditch can be used for these purposes.
ATTENTION! The specified distances must be observed both within the territory of one site and between buildings in neighboring territories. Your neighbor shouldn't organize compost pit or install a toilet three meters from your well. For such a violation, he can be held administratively liable, which could result in a fine and the subsequent elimination of this very “bone of discord.” True, in order to punish the violator, you should register your well with the SES before your neighbor issues documents there for his compost pit or latrine. Otherwise, prove that it was he who violated regulatory documents, it will be hard.
You should also register your own water source (pump or well) with the SES for the reason that you can also do a water analysis there and get a conclusion about whether it meets “drinking” standards. Water from a well is not always as clean and healthy as one might think. The analysis performed will allow you to either choose the right filters for cleaning, or refuse to use it when preparing food.
Another important factor is that a member of a gardening partnership, even before drilling a well, should coordinate his actions with the board of SNT, because this is where documentation about the characteristics of the soil is stored. If after drilling a well (for individual use the depth is 10-20 meters) it turns out that this could not be done, then you will face a fine.
All heat supply sources (boilers, stoves, fireplaces) in garden house should be installed in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05. Gas system design and installation gas stoves and meters is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the “Safety Rules in the Gas Industry” and SNiP 2.04.08.
Violation of construction, sanitary and fire safety standards may result in administrative liability. That is, if the distance between the toilet and the well or the distance of buildings from the boundaries of the site, or between buildings, is not observed, then you will have to pay a fine in accordance with the Administrative Code (Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation dated December 30, 2001 No. 195-FZ) or the Town Planning Code (Article .222)
Before you start building a compost pit at your dacha, think about whether you need it and for what purposes. Such a structure performs the functions of recycling household organic waste. A compost pit is also useful for producing the fertilizer necessary for the garden and vegetable garden, if you are not going to plant green manure on your plot of land to fertilize the soil.
You can, of course, put the waste, along with leftover vegetables and fruits, in bags and then take it to the city garbage containers. But you shouldn’t do this - it’s pollution environment. If built on a summer cottage compost pit, you can recycle the vast majority of organic waste into a wonderful nutrient mixture for your plants called compost. And no time will be wasted on waste removal.
Purpose of the compost pit
Each compost pit has a set of corresponding design features, which depend on the needs for which it will be used. If you don't know where to throw your garbage, you may be interested in a nice bonus that you can get in a few years - valuable compost. Then you need to arrange a compost pit using the appropriate diagram.
Obtaining and using compost.
If you want to quickly prepare fertilizer from available materials, which can be leaves, mowed grass, manure, then the compost pit will have a different design. There are some requirements that must be followed when setting up compost pits.
How to set up and use a compost pit?
When choosing a location compost pit try to take into account some rather important points:
Set up a pit at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from the sources drinking water– wells, boreholes, streams or other bodies of water.
On summer cottages with a slope, the pit is located at a level below the well.
Compliance with such precautions is necessary because otherwise rotted waste may end up in drinking water, which is dangerous and undesirable.
When building a hole, take into account the wind rose so as not to poison yourself and your neighbors with unpleasant odors.
If you place the compost pit in an open, sunny area, its contents will overheat. This will stop composting. That's why the best option The pit equipment will be installed in an area shaded by tree crowns.
The optimal place for a compost pit is a corner of the plot of land adjacent to a fence or blank wall.
It is also necessary to decide what waste is placed in the compost pit and what waste should not be thrown into it.
Waste that can be used to fill a compost bin
- Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee, cleaning residues;
- Hay, grass clippings and straw;
- Leafy;
- Branches, tree bark, roots of bushes and trees that need to be slightly chopped;
- Weeds;
- Wood ash;
- Needles;
- Napkins, cardboard, paper bags (the paper must be natural) - all this is crushed;
- Unpainted wood waste;
- Second-year manure of herbivores.
How can you fill a compost pit at your summer cottage?
What is prohibited from filling the pit?
- Bones;
- Experiment with pets because they may have helminth eggs;
- Insect pests and their eggs;
- Disease-affected plants (tomato tops affected by late blight, pumpkin and powdery mildew, and others);
- Plants from soil areas that have been treated with herbicides;
- Inorganic waste, which can be in the form of plastic, iron, rubber or synthetic fabrics.
All waste that cannot be composted should be burned or disposed of if it is excrement.
Rules for sorting household waste for use in a compost bin.
Organic waste is processed by microorganisms and earthworms. Do not insulate all the walls of the compost pit below ground level, because if you dig a hole in the ground at a depth of 50 cm and then line it with impervious material, worms and microorganisms will not enter it. In this case, it is necessary to move them in independently.
As can be seen from the above, the rules cannot be called complex, but they must be followed.
Setting up a compost pit or heap
The most important thing when constructing a compost pit is the necessary provision of good moisture and looseness if you want the composting process to be of high quality. There are no specific recommendations on this issue.
Arrangement of a compost pit on a summer cottage.
To maintain humidity compost heap it can be watered regularly, or covered with a film, which will create a steamy effect. The looseness of the structure of the contents of the compost heap is maintained by the fact that it is periodically crushed using ordinary forks, or materials having different densities are laid in layers.
Optimal compost pit sizes
- Width – no more than 1.5 meters;
- Length – up to 2 meters;
- Maximum height – 1.5 meters;
- Go deeper into the ground no more than 0.4 meters.
There are several different compost pit designs, which can meet the preferences of any owner.
Compost pit with two sections
It takes about 2 years for organic waste to rot and compost, unless you use the services of additional effective microorganisms along with those present in the soil on your site. In order to make the use of the pit more convenient, a two-section structure is constructed:
- Fresh waste is stored in the first section;
- The second section contains waste that has been composted since last year.
Prepared in the second section compost they take it out and lay it out in the beds where they want to improve and saturate the soil with useful substances. The compost pit can be fenced on all sides in the form of a box, but use only material that allows free access of air.
Wooden box for arranging a compost pit.
The box can be made from wooden pickets, which are nailed down while maintaining a small distance between them. At the same time, the contents of the pit will not clog and will not smell unpleasant. You can build such a compost pit yourself in just 1-2 days - the duration of the work depends on the material chosen for fencing.
Compost pit with free access from below the structure:
Such a pit will perfectly replace the first option, because it does not require breaking into sections. Fence the pile 30 cm from the ground. The finished compost accumulates at the bottom. If necessary, it can be easily removed with a shovel and used to fertilize the garden.
Building such a pit is very convenient and causes little trouble. Constantly, when compost is reached from below, the contents of the heap sink lower and take up the free space, at the same time being saturated with oxygen. No special loosening or tossing is required.
Compost heap equipment
Not all summer residents like artificial creation unnecessary complications. The best way out of this situation is to do nothing, in which nothing is dug, fenced off, or divided. Only a certain place is selected where organic waste is stored, gradually forming a heap.
Food waste for compost pit.
If desired, this heap is watered with EM preparations, or covered with an opaque film to speed up the composting process. If you have nowhere to rush, then there is no need to cover the pile - its contents will rot on their own, this just takes time.
Use of plastic containers and barrels
Using plastic containers for preparing compost is convenient for those who do not spare money and want their compost pit to look presentable. The container can be installed in any convenient place, since there is no risk of contamination of drinking water due to the tightness of the container. In addition, the container has special ventilation to prevent water from stagnating.
Usage plastic barrels for making a compost pit.
When using this option, you need to know that it is necessary to use drugs that accelerate the decomposition of organic waste, or add earthworms to the pit.
Self-construction of a compost pit
An example would be a self-built compost pit on one of the summer cottages. If the structure is fenced on all sides and has a height of one and a half meters, its contents must be shaken periodically, but this is a very inconvenient task. Therefore, it was decided to arrange two heaps, or rather, one heap on two sides.
After choosing a good place - the corner of the site near the fence itself, organic remains were placed in the corner. It is very good if you alternate between grass, manure and soil. First, before the formation of a heap, a place for it is laid with branches of trees and shrubs.
Building a compost pit with your own hands.
When the heap reaches 1 meter in height, deep holes are made (several pieces) into which the EM preparation is poured (this can be “Oxyzin”, “EMochki”, “Bokashi”). On the advice of experts, you can cover the compost heap with an impermeable film - this will maintain constant humidity and temperature, but not everyone does this. When covered with film, the compost will be ready in 2-3 months, but composting uncovered waste requires at least six months to a year.
You don't have to use EM drugs. They'll do a great job California worms or prospecting worms. However, there are also disadvantages to using worms. Worms love warmth, so they do not work in the coldest months of the year. And it is enough for microorganisms that the temperature in the compost heap rises to only +4°C.
It is necessary to water the pile with water from a hose during dry times. If you need to obtain ready-made compost to transfer it to the beds, you can transfer top part heap to another place and select the ready-made humus accumulated at the bottom of the heap. After the humus runs out, waste is again thrown onto this place.
When setting up a compost heap, it occurs to some summer residents to spread plastic film on the ground, onto which they then dump organic waste. They make such a design, believing that this way there will be no leaching of useful elements into the soil. However, they are wrong; this cannot be done for the following reasons:
By isolating the base of the compost heap from the ground, conditions are created that cause moisture to quickly evaporate from the heap. At the same time, moisture does not rise from the ground, despite the fact that even on hot days, thanks to a natural mechanism, moisture should rise upward from the depths of the earth using special capillaries.
If the pile is isolated from the ground, this prevents humus from leaching out of the compost. Mineral fertilizers are washed away, since microelements are combined with organic matter and are constantly located in the top layer of soil.
But these properties are quite convenient for use in gardens - neither rain nor downpour is scary. And when limiting minor leakage, which may still occur, add a 10 cm layer of peat, which perfectly solves these problems: it prevents leakage nutrients into the ground. Peat also allows groundwater to rise into the pile.
Requirements for a proper compost bin
If, after reading the article, you still have questions about building a proper compost pit, get advice - don’t build it at all. Why?
The labor of dragging grass and other organic waste from one place to another can be considered unnecessary and meaningless work. When composting, carbon dioxide vapor is formed - this is an irreplaceable food for plants, which is mediocrely lost on the heap, at the same time getting on the nerves of you and your neighbors with an unpleasant odor.
Proper arrangement and use of a compost pit.
You may be called an eccentric, but it is better to place organic waste directly on the beds, where it rots well and does not emit unpleasant odors. In addition, microorganisms will multiply directly in the beds, and earthworms will crawl in and appreciate such an abundance of work for them. Grass clippings can be used as mulch. Chop and lay branches in paths between the rows, and clear away fresh vegetables and scatter fruits in the garden.
This will allow:
- Retain moisture in the beds;
- Feed plants with carbon dioxide;
- Do not allow weeds to grow in the beds;
- Prepare compost in places where it is needed;
- Prevent the leaching of humus;
- Reduce the amount of work.
The work proposed above for the sale of organic and food waste is simple and does not require additional skills or effort.
Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
Roofs that are made from metal profile, are today a common option for technological structures for complex and simple design solutions. Typically, such structural solutions are used for large production areas, warehouses, agricultural buildings, as well as for apartment buildings. Exact date operation according to basic technical specifications depend on a number of factors, including how effectively the end elements are secured, where not the last point The wind strip for corrugated sheets plays a role in this. The cross section of such a design can have different type, and for the most part taken into account the standard design of the corrugated sheet, the working wave height, and the width of the wave distance of the roof. The main feature of roof wind protection is its unique characteristics, which have different curves for configuration.
The main structural solution is the size of the wind strip for corrugated sheeting, which has the form of a panel, made at a conventional right angle. The traditional size of the additional part is 2 linear meters. The width of the material is different, it ranges from 40*60 mm to 90*300 mm. For narrow types of planks, it is usually used for cladding from thick, dense corrugated board, which has a low wave height.
The pinnacle of technical thought and innovative developments of the latest generation to ensure drainage in the house, this is what Nicoll drains are called by those who, as part of their duties, are engaged in the installation of high-quality drainage for buildings of various infrastructure. For the first time trademark was born in France back in 1956, and for 6 decades the manufacturer has remained unchanged in the principles of quality and reliability for all drainage systems used. Innovative ideas have made Nicoll gutters popular in many countries around the world, and certification of quality and management according to SO 9001 and ISO 14001 is an additional confirmation of trust in this brand.
Today drainage system Nicoll has reached the global level, and the manufacturer has managed to expand the production site, which is over 1 thousand hectares, and the total number of items in the company's product range is about 6 thousand units. It is noteworthy that as reliable materials For Nicole gutters, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, and polyester are used, which increase the strength of the finished product and enhance the basic characteristics of the material.