Abstract. Detailed description of installation of fasteners on cross-country skiing. Video at the end of the note. You can download a markup template for installation.
It so happened that my old ski boots with 75 bindings broke. Naturally, I wanted to move to a new level of progress and install modern ski bindings. And just then my son had some good extra Salomon boots under SNS mounts. I didn’t have to worry about choosing fasteners and they were purchased for 800 rubles. The exact name is Salomon SNS PROFIL AUTO MEN.
These bindings are marketed as: “Comfortable touring bindings with flex characteristics targeted at male skiers.” Just what the coach ordered.
Because I remembered that I had drills, a drill, an awl and a screwdriver at home, so I politely refused the offer to install the fasteners in the store. Moreover, the box contained instructions in 10 languages.
We install ski bindings ourselves.
At home, when I started studying the instructions, I discovered an interesting point:
Installation of fasteners.
“Your bindings must be properly installed on your skis by a certified technician at an Authorized Salomon Dealer shop or service center in accordance with the instructions and recommendations in the latest edition of the Salomon Cross Country Ski Technical Manual. Failure to follow this rule increases your risk of injury while riding.“.
That's it, not a word more about installation. I also read from this manual useful advice that when fastening on uneven terrain, you should tie the ski to your right or left leg to avoid losing it. By the way, very wise.
The remaining points, as usual, are complete reinsurance of the manufacturer from various legal claims spoiled Western consumer.
Based on the lack of that same manual, I had to remember my carpentry and plumbing skills from labor lessons and install the fasteners myself. Who worked hard at school and then managed to consolidate the skills of marking, drilling and driving screws in everyday life, he must cope.
Here is a set of tools that we will need. You can use a Phillips screwdriver to drive screws. But it’s much better to have a special PZ3 bit that costs 35-40 rubles. The bit has a blunt tip and fits tightly into the cross of the screw. When driving screws with a regular Phillips screwdriver, you need to press it firmly so that it does not slip.
The RZ3 bit will make it easier to drive screws
Tool set for self-installation fastenings
Our main task is to establish the axis of attaching the boot to the ski strictly at the center of gravity of the ski. Professionals can move the mounts to one side or another from the CG. Fans of Sunday ski trips have no need for such troubles.
First of all, I dismantled the old 75 mounts. There were three holes left from them, which did not interfere with the installation of SNS mounts.
Find the center of gravity of the ski. To do this, we use the thrust bearing from the fasteners themselves. After several unsuccessful attempts, this center will be found. We make a line with a felt-tip pen.
Using a square, we draw a perpendicular to the side edge of the ski.
Above this line there should be a rod that is on the sole of the shoe.
Draw a perpendicular through the center of gravity
We apply the mount so that the clamping point of the boot shaft is above the center of gravity of the ski and carefully use an awl to prick the center of the front hole. We do this maneuver very carefully. One day, I was installing a mount and drilling three holes at once. As a result of inaccurate drilling, the heel of the boot was slightly shifted from the center of gravity and nothing could be corrected.
So now, I decided to drill the front hole in the center first. Screw the mount onto one screw, try on the thrust bearing and then mark the other two holes.
The front hole should be located strictly along the centerline of the ski and at a distance of 35 mm from the center of gravity. I found this out later, having found this markup template from Salamon on the Internet.
We select a drill. We take the screw from the kit and use a caliper to measure the diameter of the screw shaft.
This is the drill you need to use to drill the hole. There are tips to drill with a 3.6 mm drill. http://www.skiline.ru/sport-technology/169-ski-binding-mounting. But it's somehow risky. Too much tension in the hole can lead to cracking of the ski. According to classical carpentry canons, the diameter of the hole should be equal to the diameter of the screw shaft. I decided to go 50/50 and drilled with a 3.8 mm drill. In order not to drill through the ski, we place an emphasis on the drill using insulating tape.
You should first make sure that the length of the screw is not too long and it will not come out from the sliding side of the ski.
We drill a hole, trying very hard to keep the drill perpendicular to the ski. Here a screwdriver or electric drill is preferable to a hand drill.
When drilling, do not press too hard on the drill. We remember that a ski is a layer cake and its filling is not very strong.
We place the mount on the first screw. We apply a thrust bearing. Carefully align the mount. Holding the front part, remove the thrust bearing and mark two other holes.
Do not snap the front mounting bracket. The front screw is located under it. The fasteners are in the box with the bracket not latched. As a rule, everyone starts turning the mount and snaps the bracket.
If the bracket is accidentally snapped, then we do this. We insert one screwdriver with a rod diameter of 4 mm into the groove where the boot rod is inserted, and with the second screwdriver we carefully pry the bracket up. It is better to remove it and put it aside until the end of installation.
I install the screws without glue. The tension in the hole is very good and in my opinion there is no need for glue.
We do the same with the second ski.
The process of installing the ski binding is shown in more detail and in dynamics in the video. Here I installed the SALOMON SNS SKATE skating bindings on new skis.
SNS and NNN systems. Why only these two systems: everything is simple - they are the most common at the moment (everything else is a thing of the past - NN 75 mm fastenings (for boots with three holes, which may be gathering dust on your balconies) are already less practical and not so convenient, bad fix the boot relative to the plane of the ski).
Let me make a reservation right away: both fastening systems have many models that are designed for beginner skiers (amateurs) and for professionals. World-class athletes perform on both mounts, everyone chooses for themselves.
I'll start with the SNS mounting system. Developed by Salomon. Tourist (walking) options, as a rule, come with automatic fastenings (with automatic fastening, you just need to insert the boot into the mount) and are suitable for combined style skating - classic or skate. Flexor (elastic band) of medium hardness. Their disadvantages are that they are heavier and sometimes freeze at low temperatures.
The next step will be the SNS PROFIL EQUIPE mounts (classic or skate). The only difference is in the flexors (rubber bands). For skating style of skating it is more rigid. Suitable for both amateurs and higher level athletes. These bindings will provide better control over the ski.
A level higher are the SNS PILOT EQUIPE mounts (classic or skate). Pros: better geometry, lighter weight, excellent control over the ski. Many professional skiers choose this model. Additionally, a WEDGE plate is installed between this binding and the ski, which raises the front of the boot by 5 millimeters, which, according to Salomon research, increases the push-off phase and rolling on the ski. There are two types: narrow and wide, your choice.
Salomon's top model was the SNS PILOT CARBON RC (RC2) ski binding, released in 2015. Manufacturers not only reduced weight and maintained excellent control over the ski, but also built in a wedge plate, which improves stability and rolling distance when pushing off. The cost is significantly higher than previous models, but it's worth it.
All Salomon bindings are installed on skis using screws.
Now I’ll tell you about the NNN system. Developed by ROTTEFELLA. Just like SNS, amateur, recreational (for beginner skiers) options will be automatic bindings, for example: step-in, costing about 1000 rubles. Installed on skis using screws.
The next in the NNN line are the ROTTEFELLA R3 bindings, which are also installed using screws, but in 2015 they were discontinued, hence we conclude that the entire NNN line (not including amateur ones) comes with a screwless installation system (the bindings are installed on a pre-installed ski NIS platform using a special key). There are two mount models in approximately the same price category as the R3:
Xcelerator Junior and Exercise (There are skate and classic). The first ones are perfect for athletes of different levels of training with a foot size of no more than 42, because... The length of the guide platform will no longer allow it - it is continuous. The second is for amateur athletes with an average level of training who do not strive to achieve the highest results.
The top stage of evolution was the ROTTEFELLA XCELERATOR bindings (Skate and Classic). For athletes who are seriously interested in sports. Light weight and practicality make them the perfect addition to the NNN range. In addition to the skating version, they install the XCELERATOR SKATE SPACER platform (analogous to the WEDGE plate from Salomon), which raises the toe of the binding, thereby improving stability and repulsion. It is also attached to the NIS platform using a key and the mounts themselves are installed on top of it.
Or you can choose a mount option with an already built-in platform - ROTTEFELLA XCELERATOR SSR
Let's summarize. When choosing bindings, look at your skis; now most manufacturers already integrate the NIS platform into skis (FISCHER, MADSHUS, ROSSIGNOL). In this case, I recommend installing NNN system mounts, because they are easy to remove and install (can be used in summer period on roller skis). If you have skis without a plate (for example, SALOMON, ATOMIC, YOKO, JARVINEN, SKI TRAB do not have one), then Salomon bindings are perfect, or you can install amateur Rottefella step-in ones.
I have tried both systems over many years of training. In my opinion, Salomon Pilot bindings have much better grip between the boot and the ski, due to two axes, and, accordingly, controllability at altitude. The choice is yours. Below is a photo of the skis with and without the NIS platform.
Popular wisdom: "Seven measure once, cut once"
1. SNS and NNN mounts can also be used to find the center of gravity. We use the flat side, like a ruler, and place the end side on the floor. We place the ski perpendicularly from above like a scale, moving it longitudinally to achieve balance. With a weighted binding, it is measured by attaching the binding to the ski, while ensuring that the axis of the center of gravity passes through the locking groove of the boot, moving the ski and the binding itself along.
2. Having found the center of gravity, mark perpendicular vertical lines on the ends of the skis on both sides of the mount to the upper side of the ski and connect them. This can be done using a square, although an error of up to two millimeters is acceptable for this length of skis. After this, we perform the same procedure with the second ski.
3. There is no difference between the boots of the new model with fastening directly at the front edge and the old model, where the fastening is on the ledge - for both, the axis of the center of gravity is located at the front edge of the boot. It turns out that in old boots the protrusion extends beyond the axis of the center of gravity. The planned running style also does not matter. The main thing is that when suspended, the ski does not weigh either in front or behind. The only exceptions are skiers with experience, who, to “increase speed,” shift them slightly back from the axis of the center of gravity. But putting this into practice requires experience.
4. Modern ski bindings such as SNS and NNN have a transverse groove for fixing the metal shaft of the boot in the front part. This groove must be aligned with the drawn axis of the center of gravity. Directly below the groove in the center there is a longitudinal groove. The middle fastening element is then inserted into it. Its lower bottom part coincides with the center of the rod, and we combine it with our marked line on the upper side of the ski.
5. First you need to unscrew all three screws that are not completely screwed in from the fastening. If the automatically latching SNS Profile Auto is closed, and you cannot get to the third screw, then you need to press the bracket (the latch will move inward), after which you need to insert a thick screwdriver or other suitable tool to prevent the latch from returning. Then we fold back the bracket to gain access to the screw. A similar procedure is carried out to remove the binding from skis.
6. Next comes fitting to the skis according to the marks and marking future holes in the center using an awl. After removing the fasteners, you need to check the middle mark exactly in the middle using a caliper or tape measure. The two back holes should be equally distant from the edges. To make corrections, use an awl to make new marks deeper.
7. Before drilling, we advise you to play it safe and check the depth of the screw entry so as not to pierce the ski through. We subtract the mounting height and try the rest on the ski. If the ski is thin and the length of the standard screws is excessive, then you need to replace them with screws of the required length.
8. On the drill, mark the depth of the planned hole by winding insulating tape if there is no ruler on the drill. The drill bit should have a diameter of 3.6 to 4 mm depending on the thickness of the screws. Then we carefully drill six holes on the entire pair of skis. Why carefully, because today skis have a fiberglass honeycomb filling under a few millimeters of wooden insert for bindings. Therefore, the drill, despite the limiters made of insulating tape or a ruler, can easily slip through under pressure. Do not press on the drill while drilling. The skis must first be pressed with your foot or secured with a clamp to avoid the spring factor. It is necessary to drill strictly vertically, without distortions, without rocking the drill, achieving a clear shape of the holes.
9. Having drilled three holes for each ski, remove the plastic brackets that unfasten the skis, attach the fasteners to them with screws, having previously tightened them no more than halfway, this will make alignment easier. Then using a screwdriver we tighten them with a little force, there is still a certain risk of tearing them off. Checking the tightness of the connection. Nothing should be loose.
Note: Do not use glue, as it is only suitable for wooden skis, and a lot of them have a negative effect on modern internals. A thick six-millimeter screw tightly closes the hole and prevents moisture from entering. And the edges of the screws have time to wear off before anything can rot inside the ski.
10. Reinstall the removed bracket by inserting the lower end into the loop, then pressing the bracket down firmly until it clicks. Carefully! Don't get your fingers pinched. Next, we assemble the fastening elements, first removing the screws - there are two in the middle element, and one in the last one. We install the elements end-to-end, covering the previous screws. We mark the holes in the same way with an awl, remove the elements, drill, fasten the screws, installing the fastening elements end-to-end until they stop. After screwing the last “thrust bearing”, the hole is closed with a plug.
Good luck on the ski track!
Bindings are an important element of ski equipment. As a rule, the installation of bindings is done by the store, but some skiers prefer to do it themselves. Let's find out how they succeed.
Types of ski bindings
There are three types of ski bindings:
- Hard (welt) – Nordic Norm 75 mm.
- Semi-rigid – straps, elastic bands and buckles.
- System:
- SNS Salomon
- NN Rotofella
Since the first two types are gradually going out of use due to their total imperfection and moral obsolescence, there is no need to talk about them. It is much more interesting to talk about system fastenings.
It is worth noting that if a skier decides to install the NN 75mm, the installation instructions below will suit him.
Systems from Salomon and Rotofella
These fastening systems have a different number of longitudinal components, functionality and boot stabilization indicators, and are also available in various modifications. They are great for cross-country skis, the most common type in skiing.
- Rotofella system NNN appeared a little later than NN 75mm. The boots are fastened and stabilized here thanks to two longitudinal guides. The functionality of these mounts is not inferior to NN.
- In the Salomon SNS system Only one hinge mount is used. Due to the peculiarities of the sole of the boots designed for such bindings, the athlete can control the ski while performing any move. This is the most modern version ski bindings.
There are no significant disadvantages or advantages between these systems. They are more convenient, more practical and more modern than their predecessors, so they cost a little more.
How to install bindings on cross-country skis yourself
To install the fasteners, you will first need the following equipment:
- Cross-country skis and bindings for them;
- A paper template for marking or a jig;
- Screwdriver (cross bit + drills 3.4 – 3.6 mm);
- Marker;
- PVA glue;
- Ruler;
- Awl.
Installation instructions
Installation of ski bindings occurs in several stages.
Step 1: Center of Gravity
The first step is to determine the center of gravity of the skis. To do this, the ski is placed on the edge of the ruler and moved along this surface until the skis freeze, like balanced scales, parallel to the floor.
The center balance lines must be marked with a marker. The marked line will coincide with the axis of fastening the bracket.
Step 2: Marking
The next step is to mark the holes on the ski area. This action is carried out using a paper template, which is usually supplied with the fasteners. If you don’t have it on hand, it doesn’t matter, you can download it from the Internet, or mark the ski using an awl, attaching the assembled mount so that the center of gravity coincides with the axis of fixation of the shoe.
In this case, in the NNN system the holes are located in front of the axis of the center of gravity, and in the SNS the axis lies directly under the mount. For professional marking, a conductor is used.
Step 3: Drilling Holes
Before drilling, you should check the distance between the holes located on the mount with the distance between the points marked during marking.
Holes for Rottefella are drilled with a drill with a diameter of 3.4 mm, and for Salomon - 3.6 mm. The depth of the holes is 10 mm. Drilling is performed at medium speed with light pressure. To ensure reliable fixation, the finished holes are blown and then filled with glue.
Step 5: Assembly
Now that the holes are ready, you need to attach the fasteners and tighten the screws tightly. After which the ski is left to dry (about 10-12 hours).
The cross-country skis are now ready for use. As you can see, there is nothing difficult about this. The main thing is to be careful and attentive, as well as to have all the necessary tools.