Do-it-yourself winter greenhouse with heating. A heated traditional greenhouse and its innovative device. How to make winter greenhouses on the site

Winter greenhouses are designed primarily for growing plants throughout the year. As we know, in winter, vegetables, berries and herbs are very expensive, so many summer residents build structures on their site with their own hands in order to always have fresh salads and compotes on the table. But before starting construction work, it is necessary to carefully think through the design of the future greenhouse, its heating system and make an accurate drawing.

Construction device

Today, winter greenhouses can be built from various materials. Therefore, each owner of a summer cottage can choose the most suitable and cost-effective options for himself.

Shapes and sizes of greenhouses:


The design of a winter greenhouse must withstand severe frosts, snowfalls and other atmospheric phenomena. The most durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material for constructing a greenhouse frame is wood. But such a structure can last no more than 15 years, and then it will have to be updated.

The most durable and advantageous design is considered to be a greenhouse with polycarbonate sheathing, since this material is of high quality, long service life and affordable price.

Any winter greenhouse must have a foundation, frame and glass roof. It is best to build such a structure from north to south. The room should be well equipped ventilation system to regulate heat and air conditions for the proper functioning of plants.

Ventilation can be supply or exhaust. The tightness of the greenhouse is the main condition for its effective functioning. The temperature is maintained artificially.

The greenhouse can be racked, in which the plants are placed on shelves with sides, or rackless, where the plants are planted directly into the ground. The racks in the greenhouse should be approximately at a height of about 60–80 cm from the ground, and the passage between them should be at least 70 cm. The racks are made of wooden boards, plastic or reinforced concrete, depending on the design features greenhouses.

Photo gallery: selection of project options

Greenhouse drawing with dimensions
Scheme of a rack greenhouse
Winter greenhouse design option

Types of structures: advantages and disadvantages

Winter greenhouses come in several types depending on their design features, type of material used, type of lighting, heating system, and foundation design.

  • Capital greenhouses are built on a strip foundation. A trench is dug in the center, which is designed to “collect” cold air, which should not reach the roots of the seedlings. Thanks to this design, the inside of the greenhouse warms up quickly enough and therefore seedlings can be planted several weeks earlier than usual.
  • Capital types of conventional type greenhouses are collapsible structures that can be dismantled and moved around the site. To build such a greenhouse, a metal or plastic profile, polycarbonate, and bolted connections are used. Piles serve as the foundation.

The remaining types are prefabricated structures. Only in a permanent structure is it possible to install a full-fledged heating system and artificial lighting.

Greenhouses may differ in such parameters as:

  • Functionality. They allow you to grow not only ordinary vegetables of a given region, but also exotic ones.
  • Location in relation to the ground. There may be three types: recessed, surface and arranged in the upper part of a barn, garage, closet, etc.
  • Architectural solution. They can be with a single-pitched, gable, three-pitched roof, as well as arched, wall-mounted and combined.

Greenhouses also differ:

  • By appearance building materials. Can be built from brick, wooden beams, metal profiles or PVC pipes. Polycarbonate or glass is used as a coating. Today, combined greenhouses, in which the walls are lined with polycarbonate and the roof is made of glass, are in great demand.
  • According to the type of heating system. Winter greenhouses can operate on biofuel, solar powered, and also have a stove, air, gas, water heating or electric.
  • By type of planting seedlings and plants. They are planted in the ground or in specially knocked down boxes placed on shelves.

Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into the following types:

  1. The thermos greenhouse, or as it is called the “Patia greenhouse,” despite the complexity of its design, is one of the most popular among summer residents. Its main part is located underground, due to which the “thermos” effect is achieved. It can also be above ground, but it must be covered from the inside with any heat-insulating material. In such a greenhouse it is recommended to install water system heating, as it will allow warm air flows to be evenly distributed throughout the room.
  2. A greenhouse with a gable roof is the most common design due to its convenience and versatility. The height of the greenhouse reaches 2-.5 meters to the ridge, so a person can walk in it without bending his head. Also, in it, seedlings can be grown not only on the ground, but also in special boxes on racks. The advantage of a gable design is that snow and rainwater do not accumulate on the roof surface, but quickly flow down. Disadvantages: high cost of materials, complexity of construction and large heat losses through the northern wall. Therefore, it must be additionally insulated with various heat-insulating materials.
  3. An arched greenhouse is considered a complex structure, as it often causes problems with the construction of the frame and cladding. Without a special device, it is almost impossible to bend metal pipes to make a frame (but you can take PVC pipes). It is not possible to use glass to cover the frame, so all that remains is polycarbonate or various types greenhouse films. The disadvantage of an arched greenhouse is the real danger of cracks in the polycarbonate during heavy snowfall, since if the layer is too large, the roof will not withstand the load. There is no possibility to place racks and shelves inside such a structure, so plants can only be grown on the ground.
  4. Greenhouse with sloping walls. The design of such a greenhouse resembles an ordinary “house” in appearance, but only with walls built at a certain angle, extending outside the room. The advantage of such a greenhouse is the possibility of construction from wood, metal, and plastic. Glass, polycarbonate, film can serve as cladding. The biggest advantage is considered to be a “self-cleaning” gable roof. The downside is the restrictions on installing racks and shelves around the perimeter of the walls due to the sloping walls.
  5. Greenhouse with mansard roof. A type of structure with vertical walls and a mansard roof, which copes well with mechanical loads such as snow. Thanks to the special roof, more space is created above your head, and a large number of multi-tiered racks and shelves can be placed on the walls.
  6. Single slope greenhouse. The design of the walls is no different from a gable roof, but here the roof is installed at a certain angle so that snow falls off it and rainwater drains without getting inside the room. Glass and polycarbonate can be used for cladding. Polyethylene film is not suitable for a winter greenhouse. Along the walls you can install shelves and racks on top of each other for multi-tiered growing of plants. It is practically devoid of disadvantages, except for the complexity of construction and installation of a strip foundation.

Preparatory work: drawings and dimensions of the structure

We will consider the construction of a winter greenhouse 3.34 meters wide and 4.05 meters long. The total area of ​​the room for growing crops is 10 square meters. meters.

The greenhouse is a square room buried in the ground with shelves and a roof made of durable two-layer polycarbonate.

If there is groundwater on the site and it is close to the surface, then the greenhouse is built without deepening, and the outer sides of the structure are sprinkled with soil.

If necessary, the length of the structure can be increased by adding additional sections to the frame.

Structure of racks and their dimensions

Where the beam connects, a triangular-shaped support is built. The dimensions are shown below in the drawing.

Ridge posts are needed to support the timber at the connection point. Also, the support should not come into contact with the polycarbonate sheathing.

A strong support system will not interfere when a person moves around the greenhouse. It is necessary if the length of the greenhouse is more than 4 meters. If the length exceeds these parameters, then supports are installed every 4 meters.

Corner supports are made of 100x100 mm timber, intermediate supports are made of 50x100 mm boards.

Construction of walls and thermal insulation

The pillars will be covered with boards on both sides, and insulation will be placed in the interior space.

To save money, you can take round timber Ø 120–150 mm, hewn to 100 mm. The walls are covered with slabs.

To insulate walls, use slag, sawdust or fine expanded clay. Quicklime is added to sawdust as protection against small rodents.

When choosing timber and boards, it is necessary to take into account that this structure will be used throughout the year, so the lumber must be of high quality.

  • For the construction of supports and other parts of the frame, it is recommended to purchase pine boards and timber (rounded or glued). This is the most accessible, durable and cost-effective material for the construction of greenhouses in our region.

You can also choose larch or oak, but such lumber is quite expensive and therefore it is irrational to use them in this case.

Polycarbonate has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. But the more complex its structure, the greater the mechanical loads it can withstand (snow and wind).

When choosing polycarbonate, you need to know its thickness.

  • For cladding the walls of a greenhouse, it is best to take sheets with a thickness of 6 to 25 mm, depending on the intended design.
  • For roofing, polycarbonate with a thickness of 16 to 32 mm is recommended, since this part of the greenhouse will bear the heaviest load.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools

  • Beam with a section of 100x100 mm;
  • Board with a section of 50x100 mm;
  • Gorbyl;
  • Round timber Ø 120–150 mm;
  • Boards for making shelving;
  • Insulation;
  • Foamed polyethylene (aluminum foil);
  • Polycarbonate sheets;
  • Self-tapping screws and thermal washers;
  • Hardware;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Wood hacksaw or saw;

Step-by-step instructions for building an in-depth winter greenhouse with your own hands

We dig a pit 60 cm deep. Its length and width should be several centimeters larger than the perimeter of the future greenhouse. At the bottom we make markings for installing support pillars. We dig the supports to a depth of about 50 cm.

At a height of one meter from the ground, stretch the construction rope and check the evenness using a level. We fill the supports with soil and compact them thoroughly.

We level the floor and cover the walls with boards outside and inside, starting from the bottom. We fill the space between them with the selected insulation. This is how we cover the opposite two walls.

After we have sheathed the walls, we need to saw off the excess ends of the boards that extend beyond the pillars. At the corners of the structure inside, we nail 50x50 mm bars onto the boards. Next, we will attach the sheathing to the front and back of the wall. This is how we sew up all the walls of the greenhouse. But we nail the boards to the vertical beams.

We compact the insulation inside the walls, adding the required amount of expanded clay, sawdust or slag to the top. Then we sew up the top of the walls with boards.

We also cover the inner surface of the walls with insulation made from special foil. We place the insulation so that it extends slightly at the top of the walls, and bend it so that it can cover the boards covering the upper part of the walls.

We make the roof separately from the main structure, and then install it on the greenhouse. We manufacture all other roofing elements according to the diagrams indicated in the drawing.

We connect the rafter parts into half a tree, and nail the lintel so that the distance at the bottom is 3 meters 45 centimeters. Since the jumper is temporary, we must nail it so that it can then be dismantled. The nails should not be driven in completely, but should be left 10 mm from the head so that they can be easily removed.

We assemble the rafters and nail them to the support as shown in the drawing below.

After we have nailed the rafters to the support, we remove the jumpers. We install the ridge beam under the rafters and place the front posts measuring 88 cm under it. We nail the outer rafters (20 cm) to the ridge beam. To do this, we pre-drill holes in the rafters. Then we install a jumper between the rafters, and install flashings on the side rafters, the ridge beam and on the front posts as shown in the drawing.

Reference. Strips are called wooden strips that are designed to cover various cracks.

We attach two-layer thick polycarbonate to the roof frame using self-tapping screws with thermal washers. To do this, we drill holes in the sheets larger than the diameter of the screws themselves.

After attaching the polycarbonate, we need to install a ridge corner from galvanized sheet metal. We fasten it with a gasket for insulation. We do not attach polycarbonate to the side ends of the roof until we have secured the roof to the main structure.

We install the roof on the walls and secure it with 4 metal brackets. They can be made from twenty-centimeter long nails. Then we install the side parts of the roof from polycarbonate triangles.

We install an insulated thick wooden door(thickness not less than 5 cm).

After this, you can install wooden racks and shelves inside the greenhouse for future seedlings. They are installed on the sides of the walls at a distance of approximately 60 cm from the floor. A layer of earth is poured on them or boxes with soil are placed.

Heating selection

The choice of heating system depends on the size of the room. For winter greenhouses with an area of ​​more than 15 square meters. meters, stove heating is suitable. Large areas are usually heated with biofuels, electric heaters or a water loop.

Stove heating is an affordable and economical option for a greenhouse. In this case, a stove is installed in the room, which is heated with wood, coal, briquettes, pallets or gas. But since the walls of the oven become very hot, plants should not be planted near it.

Water heating requires a water heating boiler, pipes and a tank. The pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 40 cm or placed immediately under the shelves.

Electric heating can be of three types: air, cable and infrared. Cable is a “warm floor” system, air is installed using fan heaters, and infrared is produced by special heating devices that are mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.

Biofuel heating is the most cost-effective heating option. Here, the indoor air is warmed due to the heat generated during the decomposition of various organic substances.

The most used biomaterials are:

  • Horse manure - capable of maintaining a temperature of 33 to 38°C for 2–3 months;
  • Cow dung- can keep 20°C for about 3.5 months;
  • Rotten tree bark - keeps 25°C for about 4 months;
  • Sawdust - maintain 20°C for only 2 weeks;
  • Straw - can maintain a temperature of 45°C for up to 10 days.

Biofuel is placed in the ground under the top layer of fertile soil. When choosing a fuel type, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level, since it significantly affects the quality of the soil. Cow dung is considered the best as its acidity level is 6-7 pH. A more acidic environment is created by bark and sawdust, and an alkaline environment is created by horse manure. Biofuel after its use can be reused as humus.

The type of heating is selected individually for each specific case, based on parameters such as the climate of the region, planned expenses and type of plants.

  • Before starting construction of the greenhouse, all wooden boards and beams must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic agents.
  • Before installing the supports, after treating them with protective agents, the lower parts must be tightly wrapped with roofing material and secured with a stapler.
  • It is also necessary to protect the external walls by securing roofing felt to them. And only then sprinkle them with soil.
  • The roof frame, after applying a protective coating and primer, is covered with white paint intended for outdoor work.
  • During the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to select energy saving lamps to create artificial lighting. They help you use electricity more economically. Their number and location depend on the dimensions of the internal space of the greenhouse.

Video: how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

If, when constructing a winter greenhouse, you strictly observe all technical standards and follow the drawn up diagrams and drawings, then such a design will delight you and your loved ones with excellent harvests of vegetables, berries and fresh herbs for decades.

Further in the article we will talk about how to heat and heat a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter, spring and autumn, how to make a winter one with heating, which heater is better (stoves and infrared heating) and other nuances of heating.

Year-round polycarbonate greenhouses

Polycarbonate panels– one of the best materials when creating greenhouses, including year-round ones. This material is quite durable and not subject to destructive influences. external environment(for example, temperature changes, high humidity).

At the same time, working with such material is very convenient - it is mounted on the greenhouse frame using self-tapping screws and bends well.

The most important advantage of such greenhouses– this is an opportunity to use it all year round, grow plants and get fruits all the time. This can be a variety of greens or other vegetables.

Having installed all the necessary systems, you can create any necessary temperature conditions inside. In addition, such a greenhouse does not need to be cleaned after each season.

What should a greenhouse be like?

All greenhouses have a similar operating principle. Winter greenhouses have some features that must be observed during construction.

Winter polycarbonate greenhouse– the building is stationary and requires the creation of a high-quality foundation and a strong frame.

A prerequisite for creating a year-round greenhouse is a solid foundation. Wooden foundation will not work, because it needs to be changed periodically.

The best option- This is a foundation made of concrete, brick or block. The strip foundation is created along the perimeter of the structure, is quite simple to install and at the same time relatively inexpensive.

Second important point is the frame of the greenhouse. Use in winter time assumes periodic snowfalls. The accumulation of snow on the roof leads to very strong loads on the frame, which can lead to the destruction of the entire structure. The frame can be made from wood or metal.

Both materials are subject to destruction and will require preliminary preparation, and subsequently - prevention and periodic replacement of unsuitable elements.

Preparation for construction

You can find a lot on the Internet ready-made solutions for the construction of greenhouses and adapt them to your needs. You can also create your own drawing based on your needs and wishes.

There are special programs to create drawings. They allow you to see the finished model of the future structure.

In any case, when creating a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to pay attention to several factors.

First of all, you need to choose a place for further construction. You need to choose based on three main factors:

  1. Illumination. The greenhouse should receive the maximum possible amount of solar energy.
  2. To obtain the maximum amount of sunlight, the greenhouse can be placed lengthwise from west to east.

  3. Wind conditions. Strong and gusty winds are not only a risk of structural collapse, but also large heat losses. Therefore, wind protection is necessary. For example, you can place a greenhouse next to the wall of the house or plant low perennial plants at a distance of 5-10 meters.
  4. Convenience. Access to the heifer should be sufficiently wide and convenient, which will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the structure.

Then you need choose a roof shape future building. Most often it is a gable or arched roof.

The shape of the roof should prevent the accumulation of snow during the cold season. A gable roof is the easiest to install.

It is also important frame material. The strongest and most durable material is metal.

But it is important to remember that creating a metal frame will require welding to construct the structure. On the other hand, wood does not require special tools or skills and is very affordable.

And if you additionally cover it with several layers of paint and varnish, it can last for many years. By slightly strengthening the structure, you can achieve high strength and stability.

It is also worth saying about choosing polycarbonate. What thickness of polycarbonate is required for a winter greenhouse? If a fairly thin sheet (6-8 mm) is suitable for an ordinary greenhouse, then for winter greenhouses panels with a thickness of at least 8-10 mm are required. Otherwise, there is a risk that the panels will not withstand the load, and heat will not be well retained inside the building.

One of key features winter greenhouses is presence of a heating system. Which polycarbonate greenhouse heating to choose in winter? How to make heating in a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter with your own hands? How to heat and insulate a polycarbonate greenhouse for the winter with your own hands using stove heating?

Heating using electrical appliances, such as infrared heaters, is becoming increasingly popular. How to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse with infrared heaters?

Installing such a system is very simple - you just need to connect the electrical network to the greenhouse and connect the electrical appliance. You will need to spend money on the heater itself and electricity.

Infrared heaters for polycarbonate greenhouses, they are installed on the ceiling and are capable of ensuring an indoor air temperature of up to 21 degrees Celsius, and a soil temperature of up to 28 degrees.

An alternative to it is the old and traditional stove heating method.

It is much cheaper and easier to install. However, its disadvantage is the strong heating of the walls; it will not be possible to grow plants near it.

Finally, the foundation of the entire building must be made solid and stable, because the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Its creation does not require any complex actions and can be produced by anyone.

Construction work must be carried out in dry weather with above-zero temperatures.

Instructions

How to build a winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands?

  1. Creating a foundation.
  2. For a stationary greenhouse it would be optimal strip foundation . To install it, you need to dig a trench about 30-40 cm deep around the perimeter of the future building. A small layer of gravel and small stone (5-10 cm thick) is poured onto the bottom. Then the entire trench is filled with a layer of concrete.

    When creating a solution, the best quality will be provided by a mixture of one part cement and three parts sand.

    After the solution has hardened, you can start installing the next layer. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the foundation layer (roofing felt is suitable). Then the base of the greenhouse is formed. A wall of small height is laid out of brick. The thickness of the walls is one brick. Not only new, but also previously used bricks are suitable for construction.

    After creating the base and completely hardening the solution, you can proceed to the installation of the frame.

  3. Frame installation.
  4. The simplest and most affordable option creating a frame is a frame made of wood. Its installation does not require any special knowledge or skills, or welding work. It is important to pre-prepare the wooden elements before installation.

    First you need to clean the elements from dirt and adhering soil with a brush, then sand them with fine sandpaper. Then rinse with running water and let dry completely.

    After this, you can proceed to applying paint and varnish coatings. The best paint for exterior use is one that is resistant to high humidity and different temperatures. After the paint has dried, you can apply a couple of layers of varnish on top.

    A good way to protect wood is to impregnate it with epoxy resin before applying paints.

    Now a beam with a section of 100x100 mm is installed along the perimeter of the foundation. To create a roof, you can use timber with a section of 50x50 mm. When building a roof, you must avoid areas without support larger than 1 meter. Also along the ridge you need to place several supports to further strengthen the structure.

    To achieve maximum strength, you can also create a frame from boards.

    The elements are attached using self-tapping screws and metal tape.

    You can add a small vestibule at the entrance to the greenhouse. This will reduce heat loss when entering and exiting the greenhouse.

  5. Installation of communications.
  6. The next stage is related to installation of a heating system, lighting and other necessary communications.

    Lamps sufficient to illuminate the entire room are installed along the roof ridge. For convenience, it is best to place all switches near the entrance.

    When installing stove heating a chimney is being installed. It is important to remember that when the stove is operating, the chimney pipes become very hot and can melt the polycarbonate panels.

  7. Installation of polycarbonate panels.
  8. The final stage of creating a winter greenhouse– this is the installation of polycarbonate sheets. The sheets are fastened together using an H-shaped profile. A U-shaped profile is mounted on the panel at the ends. The sheets themselves are installed vertically, then moisture flows down them better.

    Not worth attaching sheets are too hard. Polycarbonate expands when heated, and installation that is too rigid can lead to cracks.

    Polycarbonate secured with self-tapping screws with a seal. The seal prevents moisture from penetrating through the holes. Before installation, holes are made on the sheets with a diameter slightly larger than the self-tapping screw. A special sealing tape is placed between the frame and the panels.

    After that the greenhouse ready for use.

    Creating a winter greenhouse is somewhat more complicated than an ordinary one, but anyone can do it and does not require any special skills.

    In addition, the creation of such a greenhouse does not require serious financial investments. And the result in the form of fresh products throughout the year is worth the effort.

    Useful video

    Here you can watch educational videos about winter greenhouses and heating for polycarbonate greenhouses.

    Tips on building a heated polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands.

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The presence of a greenhouse on a summer cottage is a common occurrence. Using different materials, you can build greenhouses of the most diverse different forms and sizes. Work in them begins in early spring and ends in autumn. Having your own vegetables is not only economical, but also safe, since you can be confident in their quality. That is why many people have a desire to equip a winter greenhouse. You can grow vegetables and fruits in it all year round, even if it’s frosty outside.

Can an amateur summer resident build such a structure? In fact, the construction and arrangement of a winter greenhouse does not require much time and money, so you can handle the tasks yourself. In this article we will tell you how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands, demonstrate the necessary drawings, as well as photo and video instructions.

Features and differences from a summer greenhouse

When constructing a winter greenhouse, unlike a summer greenhouse, a strong and reliable structure is made. It stands on the foundation. In addition, the winter greenhouse has a heating system. The quality and consistency of the temperature inside will depend on the latter. Every winter greenhouse must contain:

  • lighting;
  • heating;
  • ventilation;
  • watering.

The size of the greenhouse must be selected in accordance with the number of crops that will be grown. The coating material must be reliable. A simple film will not protect crops from frost and snow. It is also important to provide for the possibility of additional wall insulation.

When developing a winter greenhouse, several conditions must be met for good plant growth: light and temperature conditions, as well as air humidity.

Main types of winter greenhouses

A modern winter greenhouse can be built from various materials. Today, the construction market is filled with innovative materials. They are distinguished by increased strength, lightness and affordable price. This allows you to choose everything you need within even a small planned budget. At the preparatory stage it is necessary to plan the design. Her choice will depend solely on the plants that are planned to be grown.

The types of winter greenhouses are distinguished not only by the materials used, but also by their external forms.

  1. Single-pitched - wall-mounted and with an earthen fill.
  2. Gable - with main walls and a glazed roof.
  3. Polycarbonate arched.

  1. First of all, the parameters are calculated, since further calculations will depend on this.
  2. It is also necessary to take into account functionality, that is, to know in advance the features of growing crops. In modern and modernized winter greenhouses, you can grow not only vegetables and fruits, but also mushrooms, herbs, and flowers.
  3. The microclimate inside the structure will depend on the correct location of the greenhouse at ground level. If desired, the structure can be deepened inside and get the effect of a thermos, or construction can begin on the surface. Some people prefer to set up greenhouses in old buildings (garage or barn).
  4. A wide variety of architectural solutions allows you to realize any ideas and ideas. You can build the structure yourself or buy a ready-made structure. You can also seek help from specialists.

Many people grow flowers of various crops for sale. When choosing exotic plants, it is necessary to calculate all costs, as well as study the requirements for the structure.

When developing a project, it is necessary to take into account the material with which the frame will be sheathed. Winter greenhouse must be strong and airtight, so for arranging the frame choose:

  • tree;
  • metal.

Both materials are very durable, so it is quite difficult to choose one or the other. Metal is strong and reliable, but wood is much easier to work with. In addition, the wood will not heat up in high summer temperatures. To support the weight of the entire structure, as well as the load of snow on the roof, it is necessary to use strong and thick racks.

Frame covering material:

  • film;
  • glass;
  • cellular polycarbonate.

When choosing a film, it is necessary to sheathe the frame not in one layer, but in several. In addition, you should not use it to arrange the entire structure. Glass also has many disadvantages: heavy weight, fragility and difficulty in installation. The most suitable material for a winter greenhouse is cellular polycarbonate. The advantages include: light weight, light transmission, and ease of installation.

According to experts, the microclimate in a greenhouse made of wood is several times better than one made of metal. When choosing a tree, it must be treated with modern antiseptics and protective agents.

When choosing a site for the construction of a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account three main factors:

  1. Light. The winter greenhouse should receive the maximum amount sunlight. The greenhouse is best placed lengthwise from west to east.
  2. Wind. If the selected location often experiences gusty and cold winds, it is necessary to consider protection. This will save on heating costs and constantly maintain an acceptable temperature and microclimate.
  3. Convenience. Access or passage to the greenhouse should be wide and convenient. Thanks to this, it will be very convenient to use the greenhouse for its intended purpose.

When organizing protection from strong winds, you can plant hedge. It must be remembered that the fence must be placed at a distance of at least 10 m. The distance is calculated depending on the height of the ridge.

The most important thing in a winter greenhouse is heating. This process is the most labor-intensive and complex. To organize it, the help of specialists is required. But you can do everything yourself. It is necessary to choose the right type of heating, on which the productivity of the greenhouse will depend. Today there are many ways to heat even a large area. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

  1. Sun. Affordable and cheap option. But it is not suitable for winter, because sun rays not so strong and will not be able to heat. It can be combined with other heat sources.
  2. Biological heating. Biologically active substances decompose, resulting in the release of heat. The simplest biological substance is manure. As with the sun, this method will not be able to completely heat even a small area.
  3. Electricity. An affordable and popular heating method. It can be installed in any area away from home. You can use different electrical appliances for it: convectors, air heaters, infrared radiation, cable heating, heat pump and water heating.
  4. Air heating. It is organized at the initial stage of construction of a winter greenhouse, in particular, when pouring the foundation. With the help of heating and ventilation units, warm air is supplied to the middle and upper part of the greenhouse.
  5. Gas. Gas heaters are installed in the greenhouse, in which direct combustion occurs. To avoid oxygen burnout, it is necessary to ensure good system ventilation.
  6. Bake. Affordable and economical option provides for the installation of a stove and heating for the entire area of ​​the winter greenhouse. Gas, wood and coal can be used as fuel. Among the disadvantages is the heating of the walls, so planting plants next to the stove is not recommended.

It is necessary to choose the type of heating individually for each specific case. You must be guided by such criteria as local climate, planned budget and plant type.

Stages of construction of a winter greenhouse

Since the construction stages and technologies completely depend on the materials and design, there is no need to talk about standards. Using an example, we will look at the construction of a winter greenhouse, which is adjacent to the house. A brick is selected for the foundation. The frame is erected from wooden beams or profile pipes. The entire structure will be covered with polycarbonate.

To create the effect of a thermos, you don’t have to go deep into the ground, but only raise the base. The depth of the foundation is 50 cm, the width is 40 cm. For convenience, it is better to make a strip foundation. Do not forget about the sand cushion or use fine gravel. The execution steps are standard and do not require any professional skills or equipment. After pouring, it is recommended to keep the foundation for a week. On hot days, the surface is moistened with water. A layer of waterproofing should be laid between the foundation and the plinth.

You can use used bricks to build the basement. If the financial side allows, then a new brick is selected. The height of the wall should be about 1 m. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick or a brick, at your own discretion. The frame is constructed from durable and pre-treated wooden beams. Anchors and dowels act as fasteners. Thus, a skeleton is installed that will be a reliable support for heavy loads. The frame for the roof must be made at an angle of 30° from the horizon.

The frame should be sheathed with polycarbonate according to the standard scheme and technology. For a good result, several conditions must be met:

  • marking;
  • precision cutting;
  • accuracy of installation;
  • use of special fasteners;
  • sealing polycarbonate seams for tightness.

Several vents installed around the entire perimeter can serve as ventilation.

For greater savings, it is recommended to choose a location near your home. Thanks to this, one of the walls is already completely ready, so you don’t have to waste time, effort and money. In order for the main part of the greenhouse to be constantly warm, it is necessary to attach a vestibule at the front door. For high-quality sealing you can use polyurethane foam and special sealants.

After all construction and sealing work has been completed in full, you can begin arrangement. So, it is necessary to supply water and electricity for lighting to the greenhouse. It is important to worry about shut-off valves, which will ensure high-quality water supply.

When choosing light scattering sources, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of growing the selected crops. No less important issue is also the soil. The substrate is prepared, fertilizers and special additives (feeding) are added. They will ensure fast and proper growth of all vegetables and fruits that have been selected.

Guided by the tips provided, you can build and prepare a winter greenhouse for growing various crops in the winter in just a few days. It is enough to use all available materials and purchase missing ones. You can handle all the work alone, but it is better to have an assistant, especially when it comes to installing the skeleton of a winter greenhouse.

Video

To learn how to make heating in a winter greenhouse, watch the video:

Drawings

Photo

Unfortunately, we live in an era of catastrophically polluted ecology, and the desire of most people to eat organic foods all year round is quite understandable. Hence the interest of those who have at least some plot of land in their use in the construction of greenhouses.

Construction of winter greenhouses

Greenhouses are different: seasonal or capital, large or small, factory-made or home-made. But they have one goal - to get an environmentally friendly harvest as early as possible and as large as possible.

Currently, there is a large selection of greenhouses of various designs. . It is very difficult for a beginner to understand what to choose and where to even begin construction. How to calculate the area of ​​a greenhouse to obtain the planned harvest, whether a foundation is needed and what kind, how to conduct heating, which roof to give preference to, and much more. So let's start with the basics.

Types of greenhouse structures

Winter greenhouses differ from seasonal ones in many respects.

But the variety of winter greenhouses in terms of architectural design is especially great.

  1. Wall-mounted. Good for a small winter garden or vegetable garden. Having a common wall with the house allows you to reduce the cost of construction.
  2. Arched. The traditional dimensions of such structures are 2 x 4 x 3 m. Low-growing crops, herbs and vegetables feel comfortable in them. For growing climbing and tall plants arched greenhouses are not suitable.
  3. Single-slope, double-slope, triple-slope.
  4. Farmer's. These are multifunctional devices designed for year-round use in almost all climatic zones. They are distinguished by their large area, sometimes they are entire mini-plantations, allowing for the cultivation of a large volume of products (not only in the ground, but also using the hydroponics method).

Photo gallery: types of winter greenhouses

Wall-mounted greenhouses are small in size and economical to construct It is convenient to grow low-growing crops in arched capital greenhouses
Farm greenhouses are used in all regions and are designed to produce a large harvest The teardrop-shaped gable roof can withstand heavy loads and remove snow well in winter.

But whatever the configuration, it should be remembered that a winter greenhouse is a solid structure with heating and lighting. And frankly speaking, its construction is not a cheap pleasure. On the other hand, with one investment of money and effort, you will enjoy quality products throughout the year for many years. And the result of your work will no longer depend on the vagaries of the weather or the soil, but only on your diligence and skill.

Greenhouse thermos: pros and cons

The thermos greenhouse is especially popular among domestic gardeners, primarily because it allows you to get a high yield while minimizing the cost of its maintenance (lighting and heating). It received its name because it is a structure completely isolated not only from atmospheric conditions, but also from cold soil.

The thermos greenhouse fully lives up to its name, because it is a structure isolated from the external environment in which even the most exotic plants can be grown

Advantages of a thermos greenhouse:

  • getting an excellent harvest all year round;
  • possibility of use in any climatic conditions;
  • high light transmittance;
  • good thermal insulation performance (energy savings);
  • the ability to retain heat received through solar energy for a long time. This is what creates the effect of a thermos;
  • the ability to grow any crops, even such capricious ones as grapes.

Flaws:

  • labor intensity and cost of construction;
  • the need to have at least basic skills and understanding of the design of the heating, ventilation and household communications systems.

It is easy to see that this design has more advantages than disadvantages, so in today’s realities this is perhaps the best option for all-season growing of herbs, fruits and vegetables, not only for your family, but also for sale.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden thermos greenhouse

DIY greenhouse construction

Before starting construction, answer yourself a number of questions:

  1. Do you really need a permanent greenhouse and why?
  2. What results do you expect from using it?
  3. Where do you plan to build it?

Agree, if you live in a private house and will build a greenhouse on your personal plot- this is one thing, but building a greenhouse on a summer cottage where no one lives in winter is completely different.

If you are building a greenhouse on an area that remains uninhabited in winter, it is hardly worth making it all-season

An important criterion is your financial capabilities at the moment and their at least a little security for the future, so that instead of the planned harvest you do not end up with unfinished construction.

If you have thought it over and decided, then there is a certain sequence of construction that you need to know.

Preparing for construction


The amount of materials is calculated individually depending on the size and configuration of the building.

Stages of construction of a winter greenhouse

  1. Laying the foundation. The winter greenhouse must be mounted on a foundation. It not only securely secures the structure, but also protects the crops from weeds, and also prevents atmospheric water from the outside from penetrating into the greenhouse. The choice of foundation type depends on the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater, the availability drainage system on the site and the size of the future building. For small-sized winter greenhouses, any foundation is suitable: block, brick, point, strip, on piles, etc. For large buildings they lay concrete base(sometimes timber is used). When pouring the foundation, soil should be removed from the pit to the depth of the freezing layer (80–90 cm).

    Shallow strip foundation is ideal for small greenhouses

  2. For permanent greenhouses, the frame is assembled from a profile pipe, angle, or hat profile. The best is considered to be a corner (galvanized corner profile). Since the hat profile and profile pipe can't stand it large quantity snow, they are best used in regions with little snow, despite the fact that they are easy and quick to install. The corner profile is assembled without welding using bolts and can withstand snow cover of up to 100 kg per 1 m². The finished frame is attached to the foundation using anchor bolts. They provide sufficient strength and rigidity to the fastening, and the difference in the heat capacity of the materials protects the structure from the negative effects of heat or severe frost. In order to save money, you can make the frame not galvanized, but aluminum, but here you need to take into account the weather conditions in the region (wind and snow). The aluminum structure may be deformed under their influence.

    The metal frame of a winter greenhouse can be reinforced with transverse stiffeners

  3. Covering the frame. Most often used:
  4. Construction of the roof. The most common is a gable shape with a slope of 20–25°. The angle of inclination is individual for different roof shapes. The runoff of rainwater and the bearing capacity of the greenhouse in relation to the snow load depend on it. Therefore, you should not neglect this indicator. Making such a roof yourself is not difficult. To do this, lower strapping bars in the amount of 2 pieces are laid along the side walls. A ridge beam is attached to them using paired rafters. For wooden greenhouses, it is recommended to use timber with a section of 120 x 150 mm for the ridge and trim and 70 x 100 mm for the rafters. In metal greenhouses, the roof is made of the same elements as the main frame.

    The angle of inclination of the roof must be selected based on aesthetic requirements and the ability of the greenhouse to withstand layers of snow on its surface

  5. Heating device. In fact, heating needs to be decided at the very beginning of construction, since this is perhaps the most expensive and most important expense item. It is heating that allows us to grow crops all year round in our latitudes.

Video: stages of greenhouse construction

  1. Greenhouse foundation and frame. First you need to make a base no lower than 90–120 cm. It can be monolithic (solid) or brick (ceramic) at your discretion. Attach a frame (metal-plastic, wood, metal) to it and cover the walls with cellular polycarbonate (preferably 8–10 mm thick). Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms for access atmospheric air and, if necessary, equip them with special valves (supply ventilation valves).

    Ventilation windows can be opened manually or using an automatic system that analyzes atmospheric conditions inside and outside the greenhouse

  2. Greenhouse covering. To cover the frame, double glass 4 mm thick or cellular polycarbonate is used, which has undeniable advantages over glass. First of all, they are that when using polycarbonate, heating costs are reduced, therefore, with current energy tariffs, you can save a lot on the operation and maintenance of the greenhouse.
  3. Glazing. If glass is still chosen as the coating, then the scheme for its fastening is as follows. You need to start glazing from the trim beam, moving upward in the direction of the ridge. The glass is placed on putty up to 2 mm thick and secured with wooden (possibly plastic) glazing beads using metal pins. Between the glass itself and the glazing beads, putty should also be applied, for which modern plastic mixtures or sealants are used.

    After the glass is inserted into the frame, it must be coated along the contour with sealant and then secured with a wooden or plastic bead.

  4. Water drainage. A canopy will help protect the walls of the greenhouse from water leakage. A drainage chute is laid along its inner side, through which excess condensate is removed. Use a galvanized profile. A correctly installed canopy should deviate from the plane of the wall by approximately 6–8 cm.

    Various canopies and gutters are used to protect the walls of the greenhouse and collect rainwater.

Greenhouse heating

Heating is the most important engineering system for a winter greenhouse. When constructing it, it is important to maintain a compromise between economic feasibility and providing the necessary microclimate for the crops grown.

For small greenhouses, the usable area of ​​which is within 15–20 m², it is enough to equip them with stove heating. To heat larger greenhouses the following is used:

  1. Water heating. This is the most traditional type of greenhouse heating. The system consists of a water heating boiler, pipes (forward and return), as well as expansion tank. The pipes are placed in the ground or under container racks (if plants are grown in containers rather than in the ground).

    The water heated in the boiler is distributed through pipes, where it gives off its heat to the surrounding soil

  2. Electric heating - infrared, cable or air. This type of heat generation is most often used when water supply is burdensome (for example, summer cottages, where water is supplied according to a schedule) or in those areas where there is a preferential nightly electricity tariff. The connection diagram for such heating is reminiscent of a heated floor system - electrical cables are laid at the bottom of the pit, which are covered with a layer of sand and then soil. An undoubted advantage of such heating is additional heating of the soil, and if a sensor and controller are installed, then the required temperature can be maintained automatically without human intervention.

    Electric heating is produced by cables that heat up when an electric current passes through them.

  3. IR heating. This is a type of electric heating system, which is much simpler to implement: heating elements such as UFO or fan heaters are placed under the ceiling of the greenhouse.

    To heat the greenhouse, you can hang electric heaters from the ceiling

  4. Heating using biofuel. This is the most economical type of heating today. Using biofuel is as easy as shelling pears - organic matter is laid on a layer of fertile soil. Next, you need to provide and maintain the necessary humidity (up to 70%) and aeration (air flow). The waste is subsequently used as humus. The soil and air in the greenhouse heat up due to the decomposition of organic matter:
    • horse manure can maintain temperatures up to 38 °C for three months;
    • cow manure provides heating up to 20 °C for 100 days;
    • straw gives temperatures up to 45 °C, but not for long (within 10 days).

When using organic matter, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level so as not to ruin the soil, and therefore the crop.

Video: water heating of a greenhouse using a gas boiler

Useful systems for increasing greenhouse yields

So, you have made up your mind and decided to have a greenhouse! Then you need to think about illuminating the plants in order to artificially extend daylight hours. This is especially true for northern regions, where natural sunlight is not enough for plant photosynthesis.

It's not difficult to do it yourself. The main thing is to correctly calculate the total power of special lamps per area of ​​the beds and set the time and duration of operation on the light sensor and timer.

It wouldn't hurt to make it automatic drip irrigation for timely replenishment of moisture to the root system of plants. The operating principle of such automation is simple; any owner can handle it if desired. Water is drawn into a container where a heating element is installed, and then, using a pump, strictly on a timer, through supply hoses, compensated drippers and root pegs, it is supplied to the plants.

To have fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables all year round, not only on your table, but also to quickly recoup the financial costs of construction, you need to have a greenhouse with a usable area of ​​at least 50–60 m², and ideally 100 m².

Video: building a winter greenhouse

In this article we highlighted the main aspects of building winter greenhouses with your own hands. We hope that now you will be able to quickly build a winter greenhouse and will enjoy the fruits of your labor for many years.