Secrets of successfully growing tuberose in open ground. Growing tuberose in open ground: when to dig tuberose and how to store

Tuberose is a perennial tuberous plant from the Asparagus family. It is known for its dense inflorescences and delicate waxy flowers that exude a very pleasant aroma. The scent is reminiscent of lily, gladiolus and narcissus at the same time. Essential oils of the plant are widely used in the perfume industry. Perfumes with notes of tuberose were released such famous brands like Gucci and Dior. The scientific name of the plant is Polianthes tuberosa. The natural habitat of tuberose is in Mexico. From there it spread to India, northern Africa and Eurasia in the 16th century. Plants cannot tolerate winter frosts, so they are grown in pots or dug up annually for the winter.

Botanical description

Tuberose – perennial. The root system is represented by oblong corms with a diameter of 2-6 cm. They are covered with brown scales. Long thread-like roots grow at the bottom white. Life cycle Each bulb is affected for 1-2 years. It grows dense foliage and shoots, and then blooms. Flowering often does not occur in the first year of life. After flowering, the old bulb dies, and several young children develop next to it.

Ground herbaceous growth is renewed annually. It consists of a dense, erect stem and leaves. The average height of the bush is 35-45 cm. The shoot is bare at the top and covered with sessile dense leaves at the bottom. Linear dark green leaves grow 30-45 cm in length and 1-3 cm in width.












During the flowering period (July-October), a tall, spike-shaped inflorescence grows at the top of the stem. Thanks to it, the height of the tuberose increases to 1 m. The closed buds are painted in a light pink shade. The flowers sit tightly on the stem on separate drooping pedicels. They have an elongated tube and several tiers of pointed white petals. The length of one bud is 5-6 cm, and its diameter is 3-5 cm. Delicate, but very dense petals resemble pieces of wax.

Opened flowers emit a strong, pleasant aroma. In Mexico and some Asian countries, inflorescences were used to decorate the bride’s outfit, make a bouquet for various celebrations, and decorate houses. One inflorescence contains 10-30 buds. The bloom of one flower lasts 2-3 days. The lower buds bloom first. After pollination, the fruits ripen - oblong seed pods with many small, flat seeds.

Types of tuberose

There are about 13 species in the plant genus. In domestic floriculture you can find 2 of them and several decorative varieties.

The plant has oblong bulbs 5 cm long and 3 cm wide. The single erect stem is covered with foliage at the base. Wide-linear bright green leaves with a shiny surface are collected in a basal rosette. The spike-shaped inflorescence consists of snow-white flowers with a diameter of 4 cm. Flowering is accompanied by a very weak but pleasant aroma. It falls in April-May.

The height of the flowering plant is 80-100 cm. The basal rosette consists of narrow, flexible leaves about 50 cm long. At the bottom of the stem there are sessile small leaves 5-6 cm long. Tubular white flowers with a strong aroma bloom on a bare peduncle. Their diameter is 5-6 cm. Each loose, spike-shaped inflorescence includes 10-30 buds. Decorative varieties:

  • Pearl. Terry aromatic variety 45-65 cm high. The diameter of the white flower is 5 cm. The plant is heat-loving, it is grown in containers.
  • Sensation. The inflorescences consist of small pink-purple flowers.
  • Pink sapphire. A beautiful plant with dense inflorescences. It blooms large double flowers with a light pink center and a dark purple border along the edge of the petals.

Methods of propagation and planting

Tuberose is propagated by seeds and daughter bulbs. Seed propagation is difficult, since the seedlings are very weak in the first year of life. They need careful care and greenhouse maintenance.

Gardeners usually propagate tuberose from corms. In just one season, a large flowering plant produces up to 20 children. Specimens with a diameter of 2 cm or more can be separated and grown separately. After flowering and until mid-autumn, the corms are not dug up. They are allowed to ripen well. Only when the leaves begin to fade can the tuberoses be dug up, dried and the rosette divided into parts.

To prevent the corms from drying out, they are stored in damp moss or peat at a temperature of +15...+18°C in complete darkness. It is not necessary to divide the nest, but once every 3-4 years this procedure is necessary. Otherwise, the plants will be crushed and will bloom worse.

In temperate latitudes, it is convenient to grow tuberoses in containers, which you can simply bring indoors in the fall and not dig up the corms every year. The soil for planting should be nutritious and well-drained. In the garden, before planting tuberose, sand is poured into the bottom of the hole. The corms are planted strictly vertically - so that the neck is on the surface.

Rules of care

Tuberose requires some effort from the gardener, but it more than rewards the work with beautiful and fragrant inflorescences.

Lighting. Tuberose needs intense diffused light and long daylight hours. At noon, flowers need to be shaded from the hot sun. In the morning or evening hours, the sun's rays will not harm the plant. In deep shade or short daylight hours, flowers rarely bloom.

Temperature. The plant needs warm maintenance. It is advisable that the air temperature never drops below +20°C, otherwise growth and flowering will stop. When it drops to +15°C, the plant dies. In summer, the flower is grown outdoors (in the garden, on balconies or verandas), but it is necessary reliable protection from drafts.

Humidity. Tuberose needs air humidity of 50-80%. It is recommended to spray it several times a day. On a hot afternoon, spraying is not advisable. In the open sun, water droplets will act as lenses and cause burns.

Watering. Tuberose needs moderate but regular watering. To do this, use well-settled, purified water at a temperature above room temperature. The liquid should not linger in the soil, otherwise the bulbs will quickly rot.

Fertilizer. In order for the flower to actively grow green mass and bloom, it must be fed. Liquid mineral compounds or solutions of rotted bird droppings are applied to the soil from May to August every month.

Trimming and garter. As it grows, it is necessary to remove wilted, broken or damaged leaves and inflorescences. Long stems break easily, so they must be tied up. In autumn, drooping and yellowed shoots are cut off. By removing the entire above-ground part of the plant, you can force the bulb to go dormant.

Forcing. After a few weeks of dormancy, the corm can be forced out. To do this, move it to a well-lit place and begin to water it little by little. The pot for planting should be small (about 5-7 cm). It is filled with garden soil with the addition of sand. Very soon the first shoots will appear. Flowering occurs 5-7 months after germination.

Beautiful and fragrant tuberose inflorescences are planted closer to resting places to enjoy the enchanting scent. It can also be used in central positions in flower beds. To achieve the desired effect, tuberose is planted in dense clumps. It is suitable for decorating borders and mixborders.

Polyantes is widely used in container plantings for landscaping balconies and terraces. Most often it is planted together with gladiolus, mallow, rosemary and delphinium. Lush inflorescences are often used to make bouquets. For these purposes, it is necessary to choose plants that have more buds than open flowers.

The queen of fragrance, or tuberose, will certainly become the main decoration of the garden. This flower is not as picky as it might seem at first glance.

On an industrial scale, polyanthes is grown for cutting and pressing. essential oil in India. World history says that the flower was used by the Aztecs. There are historical documents that indicate that this plant comes in white and red. In Mexico, on the contrary, the polyantes flower was considered a weed.

After the discovery of America, the British brought the flower to Europe. Since the 16th century, the delicate aroma of polyanthes has been highly valued by perfumers. A liter of essential oil was obtained from a ton of flowers.

Description and features of tuberose

Tuberose flower is an exotic plant that blooms with luxurious flowers that exude a sweet aroma. The plant is a perennial root system is a cluster of small bulbs. In the second year of life, the flower begins to bloom, and then the old bulbs are replaced by new ones.

The most fragrant variety is called “Pearl”. The height of the shoots of the plant is only 50 cm.

The flower belongs to the Agave family. Yucca, as well as dracaena and nolina belong to the same family.

Planting in open ground

Planting and care open ground for tuberose are not so difficult, despite the exotic origin of the plant. Tuberoses are propagated by small bulbs. During a season, a plant in the garden can produce up to 10 children. The larger the bulbs, the large sizes there will be a flower.

Experienced gardeners, in order to stimulate the plant to flower, practice heating the bulbs before planting. For this planting material simply wrap it in a wet cloth and place it in a warm place. The room temperature should be about +25 ºС. When the first roots appear, the bulbs can be planted in a flower bed.

This plant is very thermophilic and loves light. This must be taken into account when choosing a site for planting polyanthus. But at the same time, you cannot plant the plant in the sun.

  • When the soil warms up to +10 ºС in spring, the bulbs begin to be planted.
  • They are buried about 3 cm into the ground.
  • When planting, leave about 15 cm between bulbs.
  • After 3 weeks, shoots should appear.

The plant prefers light and fertile soil. It is advisable to plant planting material on a sand cushion. The planting area should be protected from drafts, since tuberose does not like wind.

To speed up the flowering of tuberose in the garden, you can plant the bulbs in a warm room in containers that are taken out into the fresh air in the summer. This way flowering will occur much earlier. Usually, in middle lane tuberoses are planted in open ground in mid-spring.

Agrotechnics of cultivation and care

Growing a flower requires perseverance from the grower.

  • The main thing for polyanthus is lighting. But in the intense heat of summer, when the sun is most active, tuberose needs to be shaded. These plants are not planted in the shade, because if there is a shortage sun rays they simply won't bloom.
  • The homeland of this delightful flower is Mexico. Therefore, it is not surprising that tuberose loves warmth very much. Optimal temperature for proper growth and lush flowering +20 ºС. If it is cold, the plant will not bloom.

When the temperature drops below +15 ºС, polyanthes will die.

  • This perennial loves moisture very much, and during dry periods it needs to be sprayed several times a day. But it is necessary to irrigate the plant only in the morning and evening, since the burning sun can leave burns on the leaves. Water the tuberose as the soil dries, under no circumstances allowing the soil around the roots to dry out completely.
  • The plant definitely needs to be fed. In order for polyanthes to quickly grow green mass in the spring, mineral fertilizers are needed. They are diluted at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water. Tuberose also loves organic fertilizers. IN summer period The flower is fed with mullein infusion, diluting it with water in a ratio of 1:10. For the whole summer season Polyanthes is fed 4 times.

Often, inexperienced gardeners encounter brittle stems when growing tuberose. Under the weight of the inflorescences, polyanthes shoots easily break, so they must be tied to a support.

Pruning, preparing for winter

When the leaves of the fragrant beauty begin to turn pale and yellow, it means it’s time to retire the plant. To do this, first pruning is carried out. The plant begins to rest around mid-September. At this time, watering is completely stopped, and the entire above-ground part is cut off. The plant should remain in this form until spring.

Polyanthes may not survive the cold winter of the middle zone, so it should be covered.

If a winter with little snow is expected, the flowerbed is covered with fallen leaves or sawdust, and sprinkled with peat. The top of the planting can be covered with spruce branches, which will trap snow. In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, the shelter is removed.

When the first warmth arrives, the bulbs can be dug up to separate the children from them. In spring, this flower tolerates nest division very well. Then the tuberose is planted again in the ground.

Application of the variety in landscape design

At proper care polyanthes will turn personal plot to a piece of paradise filled with a fragrant aroma.

  • When decorating garden plots, polyantes is widely used to decorate recreation areas. The plant is valued for its late flowering and unique aroma.
  • Tuberose also looks great in floral arrangements.
  • The best place to plant polyanthes is next to a fence, which will serve as support for the stems.
  • Tuberose is also planted in front of the entrance, because it smells very nice.

What does the tuberose flower smell like?

It’s not for nothing that in India the aroma of tuberose is called the “aroma of the night.” It excites, and therefore it has attracted lovers at all times. The aroma of tuberose is so intense that in calm weather it can even cause a headache.

The smell is very intense and more like the aroma of white flowers and hyacinths, lilies of the valley and oriental lilies.

A frequent guest in oriental and floral perfume compositions is tuberose. The sensual femininity of the aroma of polyanthes inspires designers to create more and more new perfume masterpieces.

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Tuberose - Queen of the Night

Surely, the name of this flower is familiar to everyone, but what else do we know besides the sonorous name? Polyanthes tuberiferous ( Polianthes tuberosa) – the second name of tuberose, translated from Latin means “many flowers”.

And in fact: a tall flowering stem (up to 1 m), growing from a basal rosette of narrow lanceolate leaves, bears a spike-shaped loose inflorescence, consisting of flowers sitting on it in pairs, as if waxy - simple or double up to 6 cm in diameter. Their number in an ear can reach 30 pieces, but usually there are 16-20 - it all depends on the vitality of the tuber (this is a corm plant), skillful agricultural technology and planting location. The color of the buds is soft pink, and the blooming flowers are usually white. But there are varieties with yellow, pink and purple colors ( 'Yellow Baby', 'Sensation', 'Pink Sapphire' etc.). True, there is an opinion that they are extremely unstable and over time transform into the classic white color.

Tuberose flower: photos of varieties

But this is not the most important thing! The aroma is the true dignity of tuberose, a flower sung by great poets - Byron, Tsvetaeva, Annensky, Zhukovsky... The wonderful smell, changing throughout the day, resembles hyacinth, acacia, gillyflower, narcissus... It intensifies in the evening and on warm, windless days days can be spread over a distance of up to one and a half tens of meters. Perhaps this advantage alone overcomes all the troubles associated with growing tuberose, and there are quite a few of them! But if you are not afraid of difficulties, then start studying the basics of agricultural technology of this flower.

Planting material - what should it be?

As mentioned above, tuberose is a corm perennial plant, and therefore the most the right way planting it as a tuber. It has a pear-shaped elongated shape and “corded” roots, covered with brownish-brown scales. The optimal tuber length for obtaining a flowering plant is 3-4 cm or more. Tuberose is a monocarpic flower, i.e. its tuber can produce a peduncle only once in its life, but when “aging” it can be used to produce new children. They will not bloom in the year of planting; they should be grown to the desired size within 1-3 years.

Adult tuberose corm

Preparing the tubers in advance

Typically, tuberoses begin to bloom at the end of summer, and in order to “shift” the timing of the corms, it is necessary to germinate them in advance in February or March at home. We offer 3 ways:

  1. Place the tubers on moist sphagnum moss and leave in a warm (about 25 ⁰C) and dark place until roots appear. Alternatively, you can use neutral peat. Plant the sprouted tuberoses in containers with soil (the pots must be deep enough due to strong roots and their active growth).
  2. Soak the corms in a stimulator such as Kornevin, Epin. Zircon for 12 hours, immersed in the solution by 1/3 of their value. Next, see point 1.
  3. Prepare containers and a soil mixture consisting of sand, leaf and turf soil mixed in equal proportions. Plant tuberose corms in moist soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, keep them in a warm room with additional lighting until rooting.

Tuberose: when and how to plant in open ground?

The most suitable time is the end of April - the beginning of May, when the average daily air temperature is about +15⁰С, and the soil temperature is +10⁰С. It is necessary to plant to a depth of 3 cm, without filling the tops of the tubers, according to a pattern of 10x20 cm, but better than 15x30 cm. Children are planted a little thicker - according to a pattern of 5x15 cm, to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Proper planting of tuberose tuber

If you plant tuberose without prior germination, soak the corms in Kornevin’s solution for half an hour to an hour, after separating the children. And until the shoots appear, keep the plantings under film.

Excessive deepening of tubers can cause a lack of flowering in tuberose, however, the formation of children will be especially intense. Therefore, decide immediately what you need - flowering or obtaining planting material.

Caring for tuberose in open ground

This plant prefers well-lit areas with drained, fertile soil; loam is preferred. It is advisable to dig up the soil in the fall or early spring; 1-2 buckets of humus or rotted compost are added to each m² of area. Each planting hole must be filled with complex fertilizer: nitroammophos or a mixture consisting of 1 part urea, 3 parts superphosphate and 3 parts potassium salt (distribute 40 g of the mixture per 1 m² of planting). Apply a similar fertilizing, but in the form of a solution, a month after germination, and apply the third dose of fertilizer at the beginning of budding.

Watering is needed regularly, in especially hot months - at least 3 times a week. Stagnant water, however, can be detrimental to tuberose and lead to root rot, so it is not recommended to plant this plant in flooded areas or, alternatively, you can arrange a raised bed there.

Tuberose is practically not susceptible to pest attacks, but in particularly unfavorable years they can be aphids, spider mites and thrips. The most common disease is gray rot, which usually occurs due to excess nitrogen fertilizer, used in complex fertilizing.

Planting tuberose repels wireworms!

How to understand that tuberose is about to bloom?

Before flowering begins, the basal rosette has about 18-20 leaves, in the center of which a towering tubercle is formed, which begins to grow and after about 3-4 weeks, under favorable weather conditions, the tuberose blooms. The buds open starting from the lower pairs; it is during this period that the flower can be cut and it will not lose its aroma and will delight you with its fresh appearance for at least a couple of weeks.

Tuberose "Yellow Baby"

During the entire growing season, baby tubers of different sizes grow around the mother corm (up to 10 pieces on each). If it is important for you that the tuberose blooms early, then all the “babies” should be carefully separated no later than mid-July, digging up the tuber and making sure to compact the soil after that. The separated children are raised in a growing bed, where they not only have time to grow well, but also form a new “baby” that can bloom in a couple of years.

Digging and storing tuberose tubers

After the first frost, the tubers need to be dug up, cleared of soil, dried, then the leaves should be cut off, leaving a “stump” 2 cm high, and the roots should be cut to 0.5 cm, and stored in “nests” in boxes with sawdust or dry sand, without separating the children before landing. The storage room must be dry (air humidity no more than 70%), and the temperature can be from +5 to +18⁰С.

Before drying, you can treat the dug tubers in a solution of any fungicide or manganese.

“Nest” of tuberose, prepared for storage

What to do if tuberose does not bloom?

If autumn has already arrived, and your flower has not deigned to please you, then dig it up carefully and plant it together with a lump of earth in a spacious and fairly deep pot (tuberose, let me remind you, has powerful long roots). Place the plant in a bright place, water it moderately, and it will definitely bloom and fill the gloomy autumn with its divine aroma!

Try to grow this undeservedly forgotten plant, which will envelop your garden with its aroma on warm summer evenings.

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According to specialized literature, tuberose is known in culture from early XVI century. And at all times it was valued primarily for the exquisite aroma of its waxy flowers.

Description of tuberose

Its smell is truly amazing: rich, reminiscent of the mixed aroma of taceta-shaped daffodils, hyacinths and oriental lilies. And the flowers, located in a spike-shaped inflorescence up to 1 m high, are also impressive with tubular perianths in a retro style.

In the past, tuberose was one of the favorite crops, along with such as gillyflower, heliotrope, rose, and hydrangea. Poems and romances were dedicated to her. Unfortunately, at present it is almost forgotten. And it's undeserved.

But let’s return to the description of the plant, which most often has simple snow-white flowers with a diameter of 3-4 cm. As a result of centuries-old selection, double forms were obtained, as well as inflorescences of soft pink, lilac and purple colors.

The buds on the ear are arranged in pairs and there can be up to 10 such pairs. Their flowering lasts quite a long time: each flower lasts 4-5 days, and the inflorescence as a whole lasts about 3 weeks (this is in the ground, a little less when cut).

It is better to cut the ears with 2-4 pairs of flowers in bloom, because, according to my observations, inflorescences cut in buds or at the beginning of blooming in water may not open the upper buds.

The flower stalks of tuberoses are strong, almost without leaves. The leaves are linear-grooved, light green, about 20 cm long and about 2 cm wide, located at the base of the stem.

Care

Mexico, with its sultry climate, is not the middle zone, so you need to apply certain tricks to make the overseas beauty grow and bloom well.

By the way, the culture is well developed by flower growers in the Black Sea region (Krasnodar, Odessa, Yalta, etc.). Tuberose still does not grow in open ground in our area.

This is a rather heat-loving plant, loving open scorching sun and fertile, but not light soil. Watering mode is normal. Like other corms, it is apparently better to underwater than overwater. Therefore, in case of rain, it is necessary to stretch plastic film over it.

Tuberose, due to its southern origin, is a slow-growing plant: 6-7 months pass from the beginning of leaf growth to flowering. But the peduncle itself develops quickly.

Here's what one gardener advises us about care:

“I don’t have a permanent greenhouse, so I grow tuberose in containers. I bring containers with corms into the room in mid-February and place them, without watering, in the warmest place. At this time they do not need lighting. After 20-30 days, leaves begin to grow. When they reach 3-5 cm, I place the containers in a bright place and begin moderate watering.

Usually the flower is planted in fairly nutritious soil, so do not feed it before taking it outside. And already at the end of April (make adjustments to your weather conditions) I take the plants out into the fresh air in a shaded place, and after a couple of weeks I expose them to the sun.

During the summer, before flowering, I feed several times with a special homemade liquid fertilizer: I put chicken droppings in a barrel of water, wood ash and weeded weeds.

I keep all this until fermentation, then dilute it with clean water (1:10). And I water it with this infusion about once every 10 days.”

Tuberoses bloom in late summer. Younger ones bloom later.

Plants continue to grow and would do so all year round(since they are perennial), but at the end of October, before the onset of autumn frosts, I bring them directly with the leaves into a dry cellar, where the green parts gradually dry out, giving nutrients to the corms and their offspring. I don't water in winter.

The first year, following the recommendations of “southern” gardeners, I grew tuberose according to the agricultural technology of gladioli: I planted it in April, and in the fall, after cutting off the leaves and roots, I dried it and stored it in a net in the basement. But I soon realized that by doing this I had significantly shortened the green growing season, which is why they never bloomed.

But on next year, having started container planting, achieved success. Tuberose can also be grown indoors, without a period of pronounced dormancy. The tufts of its leaves resemble the well-known chlorophytum.

But the most important problem in growing is the ability to handle corms, its main reproductive organ, which reaches a diameter of 3-4 cm and a height (together with the neck of the bulb) - up to 6 cm.

On the outside, the corm has a filmy coating and forms a fairly powerful root system on the bottom, consisting of cord-like roots up to 20 cm or more in length.

Each adult corm, having released a peduncle, then dies, giving rise to a large number of children - up to 20 or more in the nest. But what’s interesting is that young animals in their first year of life sometimes produce no less number of offspring.

Thus, tuberose has a very high vegetative propagation rate. Moreover, in the summer you can periodically separate such cuttings from their mothers, which stimulates the formation of new ones. But I think this technique should not be overused, as it depletes the mother plant.

Young plants are planted separately and, providing good care, by the end of summer they receive quite large corms, which may bloom next year. Sometimes the preparation of a tuber for flowering lasts for two years. In general, flowering can only be expected from corms that have reached a diameter of 2 cm or more. When planting, I deepen them by 1-2 cm - this way they are better warmed up by the sun.

In my opinion, it is impossible to obtain seeds in open ground in the middle zone.

Infectious diseases and pests, except spider mite, in my area, fortunately, they avoid the flower.

This is such an amazing and not at all simple wax flower that came to us from the ancient great empire of the American Indians Maya and former witness discovery of the New World.

Tuberose is a beautiful, unusual and not very popular plant. By the way, it was in great demand in the 19th century, and then was undeservedly forgotten. The culture is often called night violet - for its sweet and rich aroma, which in the evening spreads tens of meters around the area.

Description

The tuberose inflorescence consists of 15-30 flowers, the diameter of each is from 3 to 5 cm. The root system is a corm with a diameter of 2-7 cm with a film coating. A cord-like powerful root system is formed at the bottom. The leaves have parallel veins, are slightly elongated, and are linear in type.

In the 19th century, tuberose was grown in the gardens of the nobility and wealthy citizens; it was considered a symbol of wealth and prosperity.

The height of the stem can reach 1 m. Thanks to its decorative appearance this plant is often used to decorate flower beds and flower beds. More details about types and creation garden flower bed read .

Tuberose buds have a pink tint, and the blooming flowers are white, with a waxy coating, the petals are dense, and the aroma is characteristic. Since the culture has been known since the 16th century, it was derived large number her selections different shades, terry varieties. Flowering in open ground lasts on average from early July to October (depending on the variety).

The corm blooms only once, after which it can be used for propagation.

Varieties

In horticultural culture, 13 types of tuberose are known. The most popular varieties:

  • Polyanthes latifolia– the leaves are wide, shiny, have a light green tint. The bulbs are approximately 3 by 5 cm. The flowers are solitary and do not grow larger than 4 cm. Flowering lasts a month, beginning in May;

Polyanthes latifolia

  • Polyanthes tuberiferous– the leaves grow up to 50 cm, the plant itself is about 1 m in height. The flowers are tubular, diameter 5-6 cm, number in one inflorescence 10-30. IN classic version The variety has white flowers, but its selections can be multi-colored. The corm is filmy, there are many children, the aroma is strong.
  • The Pearl– terry fragrant tuberose, leaves reach 30 cm, the height of the perennial itself is 50-65 cm. When in bloom, the flowers look like white stars up to 5 cm in diameter. In our climate, the variety is grown mainly in pots.
  • Pearl– semi-double variety with a bright aroma. The leaves are long, bright green in color, with a pronounced blue tint. It is recommended to choose a planting site that is drained and well-lit. The flowers are white, waxy; the stem usually does not grow more than 0.9 m in height. More options perennial garden flowers see

Polyanthes tuberiferous is used in perfumery.

Germination of seedlings

In Crimea, tuberose can be immediately planted in the ground - the tubers quickly take root in the southern climate and grow well. In cooler regions, it is recommended to germinate the planting material - place it in peat or moss, keep it in the dark and warm until the first sprouts appear.

Then the corms will need to be placed in pots filled with a nutritious light substrate, and in May they can be transferred to the ground.

For good drainage, plant tuberose on a sandy bed.

Also, the southern night beauty is grown using gladioli technology. Before freezing, the underground parts are dug up and washed, if necessary, they are disinfected. The tubers will need to be thoroughly dried and stored at a temperature of 10 to 15 °C, lightly sprinkled with sawdust or.

Planting time and transplantation into open ground

Growing tuberose in containers is considered the most effective - it allows you to prepare strong, strong tubers for transfer to the ground. The crop is transplanted into open soil in the spring - around April-May. The depth of the tubers should be from 1 to 3 cm, no more is needed. If you did everything correctly, the first shoots should hatch in 3-4 weeks.

The distance between the bulbs when transplanting into the ground should not be less than 15 cm - babies fit normally in more cramped conditions, but adult plants begin to wither.

When choosing a site for planting, look at the soil structure - the soil should be fertile and light. Place a sand cushion on the flowerbed - it will provide high-quality drainage and create necessary conditions for normal crop growth.

Care

Tuberose grows best in sunny open areas and in fertile soil (the soil should not be too light). Availability good drainage- a prerequisite for its normal growth. It is recommended to use warm water for irrigation; fertilizing is applied using mineral fertilizers - choose balanced formulations, since excess nitrogen causes lodging and stretching of crops.

Organic matter also needs to be added from time to time. It can be cow, horse or cow diluted in water.

The growing season of all varieties of tuberose is slow - from the appearance of the first sprouts to active flowering it takes up to six months.

If you buy planting material, choose tubers at least 2 cm in diameter, since smaller ones will definitely not bloom this season. The base should be cone-shaped and convex. Tuberose freezes out at subzero temperatures, so all underground parts are stored in warm rooms for the winter.

To force a flower into dormancy, cut off all the leaves and stop watering, then dig up the tubers and place them in storage.

In one season, a corm produces up to 20 children, the size and quality of which depend on the growing conditions. Young shoots can be separated from the mother culture at the end of flowering.

You can use boxes to store the bulbs, or simply wrap them in newsprint and place them in the basement or on the balcony.

There is no need to separate the babies from the dug up bulbs that you are sending for storage. Tuberose is practically not grown from seeds, since it is difficult to do (it requires appropriate climatic and other conditions).

Diseases and pests

Tuberose pests:

  • onion root mite– loves onions and gradually turns them into a solid rotten mass. The plant dries out as a result of mite infection. The larvae can overwinter in the tubers of the crop;

The mite affects not only tuberose, but also other bulbous plants including onions, potatoes and beets.

  • mole cricket and nematode– insects and worms also damage the bulbs, as a result of which they become soft and spotty;
  • aphid– damages tuberoses during forcing, sucking juice from them;
  • - within a short time they attack the weight of a part of the plant. Most often, slugs get onto tuberose from neighboring plants.

Tuberoses usually do not die as a result of aphid infestation, but they lose their decorative qualities.

Main flower diseases:

  • rot (white and gray)– the fungus affects both above-ground and underground parts of the plant, it darkens, becomes soft, and rots. Diseased bulbs form poor shoots that develop slowly. A white coating often appears on the stem.
  • penicillosis– the disease develops at high humidity and appears as bright yellow spots on the tubers.
  • August disease– it is caused by the tobacco necrosis virus, the stem becomes bent, and dark spots appear on the bulbs.

To combat pests, the following methods are used - mechanical (manual harvesting), agrotechnical (compliance with planting rules), physical-thermal (steam or hot water), biological (attract birds to the area), chemical (pesticides).

If you cannot alternate crops on the site, treat the soil with formaldehyde before planting tuberose.

Tuberose in landscape design

Tuberose – beautiful flower, which can become the main decoration of the site. It combines harmoniously with gladioli, creating with them a canvas of continuous seasonal flowering. The crop looks beautiful in flower beds, plantings in fairly dense clumps, and ridges. More useful information about the formation of a country flower garden, see.

Using tuberose in garden beds, plant decorative foliage plants in the foreground.

Landscape designers love to place flowering pots with tuberoses in gazebos and on terraces. Remember that the plant has a strong aroma, so it should not be planted near the bedroom. See details about planting and growing flowers in flowerpots.

Video

For more useful information about growing tuberose, watch the video

Conclusion

Tuberose is a beautiful plant, propagated by tubers in Russian latitudes. The optimal time for planting in open ground is May (the frosts need to be completely over). For watering, use warm water, do not forget to timely apply fertilizers to the soil (universal flower mixtures and organic matter). The flower has a bright, strong aroma, so it should be grown away from bedrooms.