Every person who has purchased a small plot of land for a summer cottage strives to build a house, or a similar easily erected structure, in a short time. To have a place to relax after a hard day at work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well, it’s natural to get settled in everyday life. Of course, it is advisable to build a house so that it can accommodate the whole family and guests who come for the weekend. The task is, of course, enormous, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings to build a country house, because you will need large number new building material.
If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this structure.
Of course, this will significantly increase financial expenses for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.
Mostly, dacha owners build their houses with their own hands in order to save money on hiring a construction crew and invite relatives and friends to help with the construction, which naturally reduces the cost of the construction process.
Summer residents also sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure by half.
When building his country house, the author decided not to skimp on the basic material and buy everything on the construction market so that it would last for a century and the house would last for a long time, delighting his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance.
Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for construction, what could be better and more beautiful than a tree. The author purchased bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.
When starting construction, I pre-drilled holes for the supporting pillars, inserted and filled cement mortar. I tied the poles with boards and left them for a day for the solution to dry. Then he began construction, step by step moving towards his cherished goal.
And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house ik, and what he needed for this.
Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, lath, fiberboard.
Tools: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric plane, angle, ruler, tape measure, circular saw.
And so the first thing he did was invite his neighbor and together they drilled holes to install the pillars.
Then I installed the posts and filled the holes with cement mortar.
I made a screed at the bottom and top so that the pillars would stand level, and after a day, after the solution had gained hardness, I began further construction.
The author makes the top harness.
Then he moves on to creating the roof ridge.
Next he makes the roof sheathing.
Shows the rafter attachment point.
The remains from sawing will also come in handy somewhere.
Next, he proceeds to installing the roof from a professional sheet.
Then he moves on to installing the floors of the house.
So we have a place to store boards from precipitation.
Prepares a batch of boards, cutting them apart on a circular saw.
And begins finishing the cornice.
She covers the walls with boards, and seals the gaps between the boards with slats.
Next we move on to the ceiling trim.
Owning a country plot gives you the opportunity to fully enjoy the fruits of your dacha labor and get some relaxation at a fragrant barbecue festival. But what is a plot without any building on it. And if there are no funds for capital construction, then you can build economy class country houses photo, which will become a seasonal haven for vacationers or those working in the country, and will also serve as storage for all gardening equipment.
Read about what is cheaper to build a garden house from and how to do all the work correctly in our material below.
Materials for the construction of an inexpensive country house
To understand what you can save on when building a country house, and how to build a cheap country house, you need to study everything possible options building material. So, you can build an inexpensive cottage with your own hands from the following materials:
- Frame-panel fragments. Here, timber is used to mount the frame, and chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, etc. can be used as cladding. To insulate such a house (if desired), you can use polystyrene or mineral wool. As a result, the house can be used not only in the warm season, but also in winter. A special feature of the installation of such a frame-panel house is its undeniable savings. After all, it is fashionable to assemble a building using practically available materials, of which every summer resident/gardener/craftsman probably has a lot. As a last resort, you can borrow leftover material from your neighbors.
- A log house can also be made in a country house. Such construction will cost a little more, but the house will be stronger and more durable. The only drawback of wood (especially if the cheapest planed timber is used) is that it shrinks. As a result, cracks and gaps appear in the walls. It will be necessary to additionally insulate the building so that the country cottage can be used without problems.
- In response to the question of how to build a cheap dacha, we can advise building clay building. That is, to make a kind of adobe house. The construction technology is simple and similar to modeling. Materials for installation will cost the craftsman practically nothing, since the clay and straw from which an adobe house is built is practically underfoot. Such a clay country house, if all installation rules are properly followed, can become a durable building for any season. The only drawback of an adobe house is that its construction will take a lot of time. Perhaps even more than one season.
- Caravan house. This option for setting up an inexpensive country cottage is the simplest. You can find a more or less decent trailer that is simply installed on the site. If desired, water and sewerage are supplied to such a trailer.
Important: inexpensive for any type country house It is possible to arrange lightweight types of foundations - pile or shallow strip foundations. And this is an additional point of savings during construction.
Frame-panel house: technology of work
To build such a house using frame technology, you will need to prepare material in accordance with the given perimeter of the building. The materials you will need are:
- Beam with a section of 100x100 to create the frame of the house;
- Self-tapping screws and metal corners for fastening frame posts;
- Shields or fiberboard slabs, chipboard, OSB;
- Insulation material (if desired);
- Piles for the foundation and a metal channel for tying the piles.
We carry out the work in this way:
- It is worth installing driven piles in the designated places in the corners of the future house. Supports are also installed under wall joints and under load-bearing partitions, if any are included in the house design. Monolithic concrete pillars and brick supports can also be installed as supports. In any case, the pillars are mounted on a sand cushion to a depth of at least 60 cm. In this case, both concrete and brickwork should be reinforced.
- The finished supports are tied with a channel or I-beam, and waterproofing material is laid over the pillars.
- Then a timber sheathing is laid on the resulting belt, which will become the base plate of the frame. That is, the timber should lie around the perimeter, and on top of the timber frame they arrange wooden joists in increments of 50-60 cm. All wooden elements are securely fastened together metal corners and self-tapping screws.
- Now it’s the turn of the vertical timber racks. They are mounted in increments of 50 cm, firmly resting against the timber frame. For additional fixation of the longitudinal supports, jibs are installed on each side. You can also install crossbars.
Advice: it is better to assemble the frame on the ground in parts, and only then lift it and fix it to the base.
- Once the entire frame is ready, the top trim of the vertical posts is completed. And attic or floor joists are laid on top of the upper belt.
- The finished frame is sheathed with selected panels, securely fixing them and leaving space for window and door openings.
- The top of the house is sheathed with any insulating material, not forgetting to install vapor and waterproofing materials.
- As exterior finishing you can choose corrugated sheet or siding.
Important: in order to further save on the construction of a summer house, the roof is made pitched and covered with lightweight roofing materials.
- You can save additional money by installing simple wooden window frames and doors. This is how you can quickly build a house.
Timber country house
In this case, the work will be performed in a different sequence. First of all, you should prepare the following material:
- Beam of any section. But it is worth remembering that the larger the cross-section of the material, the stronger the finished house will be.
- Wooden dowels made of hardwood.
- Roofing material.
- Floor board.
The work is carried out in this way:
- First, the foundation is laid. It can be either a shallow strip (40-60 cm in height, including the base) or a columnar/pile type. But in any case, the concrete must dry well, and its top and all other sides must be properly waterproofed.
- A backing board made of moisture-resistant wood is laid on top of the foundation. In this case, the board is fixed to the foundation with construction anchors, deepening them 15-20 cm into the base.
- After this, they begin laying the timber, joining it at the corners into a bowl. That is, you will have to do additional work, forming grooves for laying the timber.
Important: each crown must be controlled horizontally.
- After 2-3 rows of crowns, the timber is additionally fixed with construction dowels. To do this, holes are drilled to the full height of the three stacked crowns and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Pins are stuffed into the holes. It is worth remembering that next time the dowels need to be shifted relative to those already mounted below.
- The fully assembled walls are covered with floor beams, cutting them into the upper crown. The beams are laid in increments of 40-60 cm, and then covered with a floorboard.
Important: the same principle applies to the flooring in the house. If desired, both the upper and lower floors can be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene slabs.
- The roof of a finished timber house can also be made pitched in order to save money.
Advice: a house made of timber needs about six months to a year to shrink. It is recommended to cut window and door openings after the wood has settled. Otherwise, the house may suffer greatly.
House made of clay
If you don’t know what to build a dacha from, then try installing an environmentally friendly adobe house in your dacha. You'll have to tinker here. The fact is that to construct such a structure, a large volume of clay and straw should be prepared in advance in the summer. It is these components that will become the main ones in the construction of a cheap house.
- So, after the clay has rested for the winter, it can be used. To do this, the clay is loaded into a specially prepared pit and moistened with water in an amount of 20% of the total mass of the material. Cut straw moistened with water is also added here. The straw cutting length should be 9-16 cm.
- The whole mass is thoroughly mixed. You can use your feet. And to make the adobe mixture stronger, you can add lime to the solution. It will strengthen the strength of the finished house.
- The mass is left overnight, and in the morning adobe blocks are made from it. To do this, the mixture is compacted into a specially prepared form, cutting off the top of the mixture with fishing line or wire. Five holes are made in the blocks so that moisture can freely leave the brick.
- The finished blocks are knocked out and laid on a platform in the sun, arranged at an angle.
- After two to three hours, the blocks can be transferred to the shade and left on edge until completely dry.
- In this way, you should prepare a sufficient amount of adobe bricks.
- The construction of the house is carried out on a pre-laid foundation. Laying is carried out according to the principle brickwork. And the same clay mass is used as a solution. The width of the seam in this case should be no more than 1 cm.
Important: you need to lay adobe blocks no more than two rows per day. This is necessary so that the adobe mixture can dry thoroughly. At night, the rows of masonry are covered with film.
- Once the walls of the adobe house are ready, they can be plastered outside and inside.
- The floor in such a house is made on the ground, first laying waterproofing, and then laying joists and insulation between them.
- The roof of an adobe house can be anything, but it is important to make good projections (at least 70 cm) so that moisture from rain or snow does not spoil the clay walls. When installing windows in an adobe house, it is worth making canopies over the frames and ebbs in the area of the window sills. A house built in this way will serve the family for decades.
Caravan house
The simplest type of country house for a seasonal stay, as an answer to the question of how to build a country house. Moreover, the trailer can be installed simply on brick pedestals-supports, installed simply on a sand cushion. There should be one support post per meter of trailer length. If desired, the trailer can be insulated, and then such a country house will become cozy in winter.
Remember: you can build a country house with your own hands from any material, the main thing is to comply with all the basic requirements for each type of raw material used.
When purchasing a plot of land, the most pressing question becomes how to build a dacha and, importantly, how to build a dacha cheaply.
There are many ways to build a country house. You can build from brick, expanded clay concrete, wood, gas silicate blocks or a combination of materials. Each material has advantages and disadvantages, so the choice depends on the purpose of the building and the functions required of it.
In order to build a cottage inexpensively with your own hands, you should pay attention to frame construction. Frame houses are built very quickly, and if you use inexpensive finishing materials, such houses are much cheaper than others.
Our example shows how to properly build a summer house on a frame basis. We will build a one-story house, with a veranda and a gable roof.
Stages of construction of a dacha
1. Pouring the foundation
Any construction begins with a foundation. For our frame house will be needed columnar foundation. First, using a hand drill, we drill holes 80-100 cm deep around the perimeter and throughout the entire area of the future structure. A tube of roofing felt with a diameter of 20 cm is used as formwork. We insert roofing felt sleeves into the corner holes and fill them with concrete mixture, insert the studs.
Then we fill in all the other piles, level them, compact the earth around the pillars. We leave the concrete to “mature”.
2. Bottom frame frame
From boards with a cross section of 15x5 cm laid on the foundation, we make the bottom trim. We secure all trim boards with screws. We align the lower part of the frame and make grooves for the floor joists, having previously marked their location.
We attach the logs to the frame and foundation pillars. Be sure to do an antiseptic treatment of the boards.
3. Subfloor
We lay subfloor boards on evenly spaced joists. After fixing them, cover them with glassine paper, attach the bars and lay a layer of foam plastic.
Add bars at the junctions of moisture-resistant OSB boards and put another layer of foam. We seal the gaps and cracks with foam.
We complete the creation of the platform by laying 12 mm OSB boards and securing them with nails.
4. Walls of the house
There are several ways to build the walls of a frame house. You can initially build the entire frame from load-bearing boards, and then start covering the walls, or build each wall separately. In our case, the frame of a separate wall is first fixed, and then sheathed with slabs. Be sure to use jibs to support the structure.
In the right places we make openings for windows and doors, strengthening them with additional bars. We install interior partitions and top trim.
5. Rafter system
After the final construction of the walls, we begin to install rafters, pre-made from timber according to a template. The structure is reinforced with a horizontal lintel.
We cover the rafters with waterproofing material and make the roof sheathing and counter-lattice. Attach anti-condensation film. We cover the roof with a metal profile with a wave height of 21 mm. We cover the facades with slabs.
6. Exterior finishing
All exterior walls of the house are covered with siding over OSB boards. We install windows and doors.
Since you are reading this article, holidays outside the city on your own site are attractive to you. A country house is, of course, necessary for this. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. Not only for the sake of saving cash and their labor, but also the land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands as simply, quickly, easily and cheaper as possible. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house make it possible to wait out long periods of bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and that the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be resolved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. Based on the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and off to work. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: building them yourself is very difficult. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal soil movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a full-depth strip foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the base of the strip). The foundation must be fully buried in order to allow its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until the full spring warmth in next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same endurance, for example. Swedish stove. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but even the timber or log structure itself must be allowed to shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles/sq. m) and difficult to build independently.
The same situation occurs with brick houses And . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only on very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an untrained, but attentive and careful builder to build a 2-story house. Examples of the layout of a compact 2-story brick and timber house are given in the figure:
Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. Building a country house from foam/gas blocks makes sense if the country house is visited all year round– no additional insulation is needed and heating costs will be lower.
The easiest and fastest ways to build small house– assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structural insulated panels (SIP). A prefabricated panel house 20x20 feet (6x6 m) is erected within a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental abilities trained according to the instructions for the kit. It’s no joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles/sq. m. Without foundation.
A house made of SIP will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rub./sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held together with locks between the panels. For a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have quite a lot internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house quickly, simply and inexpensively, you need to use wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
It is better to build an inexpensive garden and/or compact country house according to a standard design; For significant construction details, see below. A ready-made free project for a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - detailed standard project garden house for 300 rub. can actually be found on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when going through projects, you need to take into account some significant circumstances, namely cost, duration and complexity zero cycle, i.e. excavation and foundation laying. The problem is frost heaving of the soil. During seasonal movements, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll in waves. Summer cottages cut on different soils, but having one common property– sufficient self-connectedness, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to the raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight tilt.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. The square-cube law, well known in technology (and stubbornly unnoticed by amateurs), applies here. It’s easy to test it experimentally: glue together cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the soil’s own cohesion is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house fits into a circle of a certain diameter in the plan, then on ordinary garden soils it can be built on a shallow foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. Which circle should the project fit into? wooden house in plan, so that it can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including medium heaving, shown in Fig. Here everything depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it copes with seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tram” houses for narrow areas, without looking closely, on a foundation of normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected to its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or an articulated connection with it are excluded from the house plan projection. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. Let us only remind you that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils except non-heaving soils, you need to lay a normally buried TISE strip or foundation. A slab foundation with insulation “settles” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to crack. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation using geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage. The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a non-buried foundation for a compact country house is a columnar one from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. The blocks are laid out on cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the top ones cross the bottom ones. Thus, the column is 400x400 mm in plan. The pits for the posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15+15 cm is made up of an anti-heavy sand and crushed stone cushion. There is no point in deepening the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the ligation of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the forces of frost heaving will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in a column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. The maintenance break after installing a columnar foundation made of blocks is required to be minimal, for hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. week. The buried foundation of a compact house is often made, following the example of large buildings, on bored piles in soft roofing felt formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are placed on the shell of the piles, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in height along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast, small-scale construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - they must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: There is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles work normally in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one can create one. The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is with geoscrews. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles specifically for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a homemade strip foundation, because... Geoscrews themselves are not cheap, but for a small house this is not so bad, since few screws are required. The geoscrew for low- and medium-density soils, by the principle of holding it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a confirmed furniture screw and also looks like it in appearance, see fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Both geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessive heaving. You can either lay the wooden bottom frame of a building on the heads of geoscrews or mount a steel grillage. For information on how to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of geoscrews for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: If you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. Let's get to the point: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and more likely to be built? In order of increasing cost, complexity and construction time, as well as potential aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are arranged as follows. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimensions. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung cabin from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and placing it on posts, concrete supports for grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone bed (so that weeds do not sprout and annoying living creatures do not appear). A foundation for a kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung as a country house has only one drawback: its utilitarian appearance, which any design efforts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from a ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 car (see figure): they have a flat floor and it is easier to place them on posts due to the small or absence of recesses for the wheel arches. You need 6 columns (you can dry-folded brick ones): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and can be converted into housing easier than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: Don’t take non-standardized “booths” from ancient ZiSs and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and the insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to zero vehicle dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. If your site is long and narrow, then a “tram” house made from a kung on it is practically the only way to do without laying a buried foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-compartment kung (double-compartment), on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung cabin (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung cabin from old communication hardware. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some effort, such a kung turns out not to be a house, but a piece of candy, below right in the figure. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance) compartment for the autonomous power supply unit (BEA): in its place is a mini-toilet with a shower. By removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get space for a gas stove with 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely designed for gardening tools, planting material, etc., with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, communication equipment shelters have side windows, which cannot be said about all military shelters. Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. The country hut house is almost as durable as a kung, because... its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small hut house (up to approximately 4x6 m) can be placed on a shallow foundation on any soil except excessively heaving soil. A hut house requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimal set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage, inherited from its ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.: There are few disadvantages to the chalet house. The hut house retains all its advantages up to a size of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut house, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that’s all. In America and Canada, single-occupancy hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants and sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare owner, who remembers), left and center in the figure: Construction of a single house hut - shelter and a 3-bed country house But the hut house, only 3x3 m in plan, can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, heating costs are low, because... the relative heat loss area of the hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first warmth of spring until the winter cold, then a hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house measuring up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. in this way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason that few people build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw further.” Drawings of a hut house 3x3 m for two or three are given in the figure: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, like the intermediate frames, is 150x75 timber. Firstly, on facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tie (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge girder, a ridge beam of the same cross-section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and top strapping (longitudinal stiffening links) made of the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse connections are connected by a half-tree insert. Those. Using the example of a 4x6 m house, you can already see how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house increase with its size. Note: On the bottom screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. The internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other façade extends up to the tightening and is made of 75x150 timber; The lower screed of this facade is split. If the house does not have a basement, the window frame is made in a similar way. In the general concept, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, the “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because... spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and in construction no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, little is known to construction specialists outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a type of construction technology. The bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the northern United States and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still suitable for habitation. The house, built using bungalow technology, is easily recognizable by its 2-layer cladding made of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. right. The bungalow as a wooden construction technology combines elements of half-timbered and frame structures with working cladding. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a trace. advantages: The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer cladding boards need to be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelter houses are generally more popular than hut houses due to their better habitability. In a bungalow, you don’t have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat lunch. The structure of a bungalow-type shelter house is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelter The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, a non-buried strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If it is columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended up to 3-3.5 m in length. Then, if you do not extend it accordingly. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. A “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation measuring 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complex (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of “real” recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev This option also works well on heavily heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a construction technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from timber from 150x150 without jibs. Yes, yes! The rigidity of the structure is provided by cladding made of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because... Under each joint of the sheets, backing posts and lengths are needed. Bungalow construction diagrams are shown in the figure: The rafter floor structures are not shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by cutting into half a tree and into a tenon, and the tenons of the racks are located on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the corner reinforcement diagram in the center of Fig. The use of steel corners, overlays and other innovations in this case is unacceptable! You have to pay for the Old Testament “stupidity” with labor. The sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (convexities of the annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: internal inward, external outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of the “humps” it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along the short (end) edges with triplets (not pairs!) of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or in a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along the short edges with pairs of fasteners; along the long ones - in a row with the same step. Assembling the bungalow's load-bearing frame is a very important stage of work. And labor-intensive, because You can’t hammer in staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were installed using wedging. The frame of the house is assembled using bungalow technology. order: A frame mini-house does not have any special features compared to a large residential one; a diagram of its device is shown in Fig.: The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a “classic” frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: its simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of a frame house is very flexible. On the one hand, it forgives the rather serious mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs some scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about building a small frame shelter house:
To this story we only need to add that the viewers’ comments about insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive” the dew point out once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used that do not allow condensation to form in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The roof beam (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a peculiarity. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence, by the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the lack of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (excuse the bureaucracy). To support the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at a minimum - a tape of normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof crossbar) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the truss rack rests on a transverse beam-screed, and in the layered version on a load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like based on your skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge beams - 100x75 and mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame mauerlat, the timber of the top frame can serve directly. If you decide to build a house on your own summer cottage, then the first problem that will arise for you is what material to use for the work. In addition, other questions may haunt you during such a process. What can you build a house from? What will be more practical? Which material will last longer? Should you choose an ordinary brick or try modern technologies? And if you are really concerned about such questions, then from this article you can find out the answers to them. So, now you have a huge selection of building materials than a couple of decades ago. Today you can build a house from gas silicate blocks or wood. You can also build a house on your site using frame-panel technology. But no one canceled brick either. Some entrust the construction of their house to specialists, and very soon they are happy with a beautiful brick house. As a result, it is up to you to decide what to build a country house from. We, in turn, would like to tell you about the different materials for building a house. About their properties, different costs, moisture resistance, sound insulation, all the pros and cons and much more. This article will allow you to find out what is best to build a country house from. First of all, it’s worth talking about a popular building material - brick. So, brick is the most durable material. A house made of brick structures will last you approximately 100-150 years, or maybe more. Elderly city residents can confirm that in their cities there are many different, very old buildings that are over 100 years old, they are all intact and built of brick. But let's not advertise the brick too much. A building made from it will be durable and will last a long time only if the brick is of high quality and the finished house is well looked after. Of course, building a house from brick is not so easy, and if technical errors are made during construction, then the quality of the house will not be adequate. In this case, the thermal insulation decreases and the weather resistance will no longer be the same. The main factor is dampness; over time it can destroy the masonry. We would like to note that in order for the finished brick building to be more resistant to dampness, it must be plastered. First, you need to seal all the cracks and holes with cement, rub the seams, and only then begin plastering and insulation. For insulation, the technology of ventilated facades is used, when pieces of insulation are attached to the surface of the wall, covered with membrane-like moisture insulation, and then decorated with siding, lining or something else. There is no other way to prevent moisture from entering the brick. But it is impossible to allow moisture to get inside the brick. If moisture penetrates through poor-quality plaster into a brick, it expands there when it freezes and forms small tears, which will subsequently lead to cracks in the building. This applies most of all to country houses in which there is no heating. Therefore, pay maximum attention to plastering a brick house. From all that has been said, we must conclude that a brick building will last a long time, but it requires careful care, supervision, and also, such houses take a long time to build. The gas silicate block is suitable for those residents who want to know the answer to the question of what to build a country house from cheaply. We would like to note that the gas silicate block is a large building material, it is about 8 times larger than brick, has a low density, approximately 2 times lower than brick. The technology for building a house from blocks and bricks is approximately the same. In general, a gas silicate block is a huge brick, only with better properties. Why is a gas silicate block better than brick? This publication will provide you with the answer to the question of what to use to build a country house with your own hands. Above we described two building materials that can be used for this matter. Now it’s worth talking about such a material as wood. Wood comes in three varieties: In the Russian Federation, wood is the most common material for building a small house. This is due to the availability, good reserves and excellent performance properties of wood. In addition, wood is a fairly cheap material. More expensive, we can offer laminated veneer lumber. It is more resistant to moisture and almost does not shrink, which is why it costs several times more. If we list the best properties of wood, we get the following: A frame-panel house is the latest technology. The main material for building your country house will be sandwich panels. These panels are attached to a pre-installed frame. It is necessary to build a house frame from large-section timber that can withstand a lot of weight. Then sandwich panels are attached to them, which adjust the walls of the house. Sandwich panels consist of oriented strand boards with insulation between them. A house with an area of about one hundred square meters made of sandwich panels is erected in 25-30 days.
In conclusion So we told you about what to build a country house from. All these materials will help you build a reliable and comfortable building on your summer cottage. And remember that whatever you choose to build your house, we wish you successful construction and a lot of wonderful and bright days in your new home!
Foundation
Non-buried
Recessed
Geoscrews
Video: installing a frame house
What kind of house should I build?
When there is no time for excesses
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalows and... bungalows
Bungalow like a bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Frames
Video: 4x6 country house using frame technology
Video: DIY mini frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Building a brick house
We use a gas silicate block for the construction of a country house
The advantages of wood in the construction of a country house
Frame-panel houses on a summer cottage