Do-it-yourself water heating in a greenhouse. Heating a greenhouse in winter with your own hands. Option #5

The motivation for building a heated greenhouse varies. It is needed for year-round cultivation of vegetables. And also to extend the cutting period garden plants and successful wintering of young seedlings. The purpose for which a winter greenhouse is built directly affects the method of its heating, the degree of illumination and a whole range of other things. technical characteristics. In this article we will look at how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands using the example of a polycarbonate structure. We will also consider in detail the methods of heating it.

Types of winter greenhouse heating

Before you build a winter greenhouse with heating, you need to calculate how long a certain temperature should remain there. If the greenhouse is used for growing mother plants and their further cuttings in January-February, then it is enough to bring the temperature in the greenhouse to +10 ºС. To grow vegetables, you will need at least +20 ºС. Based on this, it is worth choosing the most cost-effective heating method. Let's look at a few basic options.

Advice: if you need to increase the temperature only in early spring, when there are no severe frosts, then the “old-fashioned” method will do. Fresh manure is placed under a 20 cm layer of soil in pure form or mixed with sawdust. Warm water is poured over the soil from above and covered with a film. When rotting, the temperature of the manure rises to 60 ºС. This process lasts 4-6 months. and warms the ground and the air above it quite well.

Electric method of heating a winter greenhouse

Since electricity is one of the most expensive heating methods, it is only suitable for small greenhouses that have high tightness and, preferably, thermal insulation of the foundation.

The most popular electric heating systems

Heat gun. It consists of a heating element and a fan. Efficiency depends on the power of the device. The greenhouse heats up very quickly, and thanks to the fan, warm air is distributed evenly. But it is worth considering that the air coming out is very hot and it must be placed away from the plants.
Electric convector. The air in the greenhouse will heat up more slowly, but oxygen will be retained. It will be more comfortable to work in such a room. Air enters it from below and, when heated, exits from the upper section. Therefore, when growing plants, it is recommended not to set it very high. The disadvantage is high energy consumption. Pays for itself only in commercial greenhouses.

Fan heater. These are inexpensive household heaters Perfect for small greenhouses. It is approximately enough to heat one greenhouse measuring 3x6 m. The flow of warm air is more narrowly directed, unlike a convector. But thanks to its mobility, it can be placed in any place and rearranged if necessary.

Advice: when using these electrical appliances, you must remember that if there is insufficient power or a small number of them, the heating of all the air in the greenhouse may be uneven, which will greatly affect plant growth. In addition, by warming the air, they have virtually no effect on the ground temperature.

Warm floor system in winter greenhouse

Uniform heating from below is best way maintaining uniform soil and air temperatures in the greenhouse. In addition, such a system can be equipped with an air temperature sensor. Which will help automatically maintain the set temperature. It is not difficult to organize a warm floor in a greenhouse.
First, a layer of soil is removed to a depth of 30-40 cm. Non-woven geotextile material (lutrasil, spunbond, etc.) is laid on the bottom and a layer of sand of 10 cm is poured. Leveled and compacted.

Advice: if there is a risk that moles can damage the floor, then lay a protective mesh as the first layer, even before the geotextile.

Then the insulation is placed. It is best to use moisture-resistant boards. For example, penoplex (it is better not to use polystyrene foam, mice spoil it).
Next is a layer of waterproofing. The cheapest is plastic film. And there is a chain-link mesh on it.
On top there is again a layer of sand of 5 cm. It must be carefully leveled and compacted. A waterproof cable is laid out on it. It is positioned serpentinely with a distance of 15 cm.
5 cm of sand is poured on top and a chain-link mesh is placed. All that remains is to pour in fertile soil.

Stove method of heating a winter greenhouse

Almost all summer residents have the incomparable stove “potbelly stove”. This inexpensive way to warm up a room is often used in greenhouses. With relatively inexpensive fuel, it warms up and maintains the temperature in the greenhouse for a long time, even in winter, up to 20 ° C.

Advice: old and modern stoves are heated with wood, scrap wood from pallets, and even shavings. The last 2 types of fuel are offered in abundance free of charge in any city. And in addition to heat, the output is wood ash - a storehouse of microelements for plants.

The disadvantages include the following:

heating will always be uneven. The stove will be much hotter. In this case, no air exchange will occur. Therefore, either it is placed at a distance from the plants, or a fan is installed next to it;
open fire is used - and this is a fire hazard. It is required to follow safety precautions and not place fire-hazardous objects nearby;
you have to constantly add fuel, which means you have to constantly be near the greenhouse.

Advice: stove heating Suitable for warming up the soil. To do this, pipes from the stove are laid underground. Passing through them, warm air heats the soil and, rising upward, heats the air.

Water heating for a winter greenhouse

Water heating of a greenhouse can be done natural or forced:

natural- when water is heated in the boiler, its volume expands. And it independently flows through the pipes to the radiators. The pipes are installed at an angle;
forced- the system contains a pump that circulates heated water cyclically;
but the greatest effect when heating a greenhouse in winter can be achieved by installing dual circuit system. In this case, one circuit is the pipes of a warm water floor, which are placed under the soil, and the second circuit is radiators for heating the air. This significantly accelerates the growth of plants, creating a favorable microclimate for them, when it is warm both at the roots and under the roof of the greenhouse. In addition, by equipping the system with a thermostat, the temperature will be maintained automatically.

Infrared heating of a winter greenhouse

This heating method has several advantages:

heating of the air begins very quickly, almost immediately, at the moment of switching on;
you can purposefully warm up a certain area with plants;
works silently;
has a large selection of fastening methods;
No oxygen is burned during operation. And the absence of a fan eliminates the formation of dust, which has a detrimental effect on the plant, when settling on the leaves;
the air does not dry out and high humidity remains in the greenhouse. Which, in turn, creates a favorable microclimate for planting;
The presence of thermostats will make it easy to select the desired temperature;
due to the fact that IR heaters do not have mechanical moving elements, the service life without repair is very long, even with round-the-clock use;
their compactness makes them convenient for use even in small greenhouses or greenhouses;
IR heaters belong to the fireproof class of equipment.

What difficulties will you face when choosing this method heating a winter greenhouse:

the initial installation of IR heaters will be quite expensive;
a large number of fakes famous brands equipment, therefore, being tempted by a lower price, there is a risk of rapid breakdown of the device;
It is important to accurately calculate the required number of heating elements, based on their power, the volume of the room and possible heat loss.

Where is the best place to place an IR heater in a greenhouse? To a large extent it depends on individual conditions: greenhouse size, equipment power and IR heating range. But there are a number of universal requirements:

the most successful placement is above the plantings;
The minimum distance from the lamp to the plantings is 1 m. In order to maintain this distance as it grows, it is recommended to mount it on hangers;
or use weaker heaters permanently mounted under the roof of the greenhouse. The temperature near the ground will be slightly lower, but a larger planting area will be heated;
for a standard country greenhouse, it is recommended to install these heaters with a minimum pitch of 50 cm. For a 6x3 m greenhouse, 2-3 devices are enough;
if you need to heat a large area, then it is more rational to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern to exclude cold zones.

What to look for when choosing an IR heater for a winter greenhouse:

In pursuit of large harvests, summer residents sometimes use industrial IR heaters in their small greenhouses. They emit short waves that guarantee accelerated plant growth. But you should know that they will negatively affect your health. Therefore, before purchasing a heater, you need to pay attention to the scope of its use;
Even for commercial heating of a greenhouse, you should not choose electric IR emitters. Electricity consumption will be extremely costly and economically unprofitable;
Ceiling-mounted IR heaters are typically designed for tall production greenhouses. For household purposes, they sell devices on tripods or with wall mounting;
on average, one industrial heater is capable of heating a greenhouse with an area of up to 80-100 m², and a household heater up to 15-20 m².

Do-it-yourself winter greenhouse with heating

Let's look at how to build a winter greenhouse from modern material- polycarbonate

DIY foundation for a winter greenhouse

An important aspect of construction is the creation of an energy-efficient space, without cracks and cold bridges. Therefore, it is recommended to build a foundation. But before you fill it, you should lay all the necessary communications (electricity, water supply, etc.)
It can be columnar or on stilts. But in this case it will be necessary to sheathe it and additionally insulate it. It's better to do strip foundation. A trench 15-20 cm wide and 50 cm deep is dug for it. A 5 cm sand cushion is poured onto the bottom and formwork is installed.

Waterproofing material is placed in the formwork and a reinforcement cage is placed. All that remains is to fill it with concrete.
It is advisable to pour concrete only up to ground level, and then lay it out with moisture-resistant red brick. If you pour the solution higher, you must remember that the concrete will have to be waterproofed and covered from the outside and inside. If this is not done, the moisture that gets into its pores freezes and expands in winter, which leads to microcracks and further destruction.
If the base is made of brick, then to reduce the cost of construction you can use used brick, the main thing is to choose red - it is more moisture resistant.

DIY frame for a winter greenhouse

The frame can be ordered ready-made from metal arches. Or weld it yourself, then the greenhouse will have a gable roof. If you don’t have welding skills, but want to build it as cheaply as possible, then the frame is made of wood.
Since there will be high humidity in the greenhouse all year round, boards for the frame need to be prepared. They are cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper. After this, they are coated with special antiseptic impregnations. Additionally, it can be treated with liquid waterproofing, for example, a primer.
They begin to assemble the frame with bottom trim. To do this, a beam with a section of 10x10 cm is placed along the perimeter of the foundation.
The pitch between the vertical beams depends on the snow cover in the region. If there is a lot of snow, then the step between the posts should not exceed 60 cm. Placing them more often is also not rational, the light transmittance will decrease, and the price of the building will increase.
A frame is also made of a bar with a cross-section of 5x5 cm on top of the wall studs. The rafters are attached to it using metal corners. Every 2 m, it is advisable to strengthen the roof with a horizontal beam, which is attached to the top trim between the roof slopes.

Tip: to make the winter greenhouse as energy efficient as possible, place a small vestibule with an additional polycarbonate door at the entrance.

Polycarbonate is attached externally, the thickness is chosen 8 or 10 mm. Fix it with self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket.

How to build a winter greenhouse with heating video

Do-it-yourself greenhouse heating system installation

Let's look at the example of water heating.

Helpful Tips:

the stove is placed in the greenhouse itself, since it will also radiate heat;
For fire safety, the stove should be installed on a non-combustible base. If heating will be provided by a portable stove-stove, then a flat metal sheet is sufficient. If the stove is built as a stationary brick stove, then a concrete base is poured under it;
in a winter greenhouse, ventilation in the form of a window must be provided;
all pipes that will lead directly from the stove to the heating system must be made of metal. The use of PVC pipes is allowed only at a distance of 1 m from the heater;

For water circulation, install an expansion barrel as high as possible.

Stages of work

To properly heat a winter greenhouse, you need to ensure that the soil is warmed up. For this purpose, high-strength water heating pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are used.

Advice: it is better to invest at the initial stage and equip the heating system with an automatic control unit. This will allow you to change the temperature depending on the degree of plant development.

For efficiency, heating pipes in the ground should be insulated from below so that all the heat goes only upward. At the site of future beds, a layer of fertile soil is removed. A protective mesh against moles is placed on the bottom, and a film is placed on top of it to retain sand.
A 5-10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the film and the heating pipes are laid in a serpentine pattern with a pitch of at least 30 cm.
In order for the soil to warm up evenly, the pipes are covered with a 5-10 cm layer of sand. A fertile layer of soil is poured on top.

Heating a winter greenhouse with warm smoke

A standard potbelly stove can heat a greenhouse area of 10-15 m2. It should be located away from the walls of the greenhouse. So, if they are made of metal and glass, then they retreat 30 cm, if they are made of polycarbonate, then at least 60-70 cm.
Both old models of stoves and modern ones consist of the same structural elements: firebox, chimney and pipe. The fuel is thrown into the firebox, where, when burned, it releases heat, or rather warm smoke. It, passing through a pipe inside the greenhouse, heats the room and exits into the chimney outside.
They start with the foundation for the stove. This will protect it from sinking into the ground and possibly falling. A pit with a depth of 40-50 cm is dug under it. Its dimensions depend on the stove and on whether it will be lined with bricks in the future.

Then a sand cushion and a drainage layer are poured at the same time. A mixture of crushed stone and sand is placed on the bottom, in a layer of 20 cm. You can also add fragments of bricks there.
A blind area is constructed from wooden boards. To prevent it from warping when pouring, the gap between the foundation pit and the boards is filled with sand. Fiberglass reinforcement is placed inside and filled with concrete. A film or roofing felt is placed on top and left to harden for 2-4 days.
If it is necessary to raise the foundation, then they build directly on top of the foundation brickwork onto a clay-sand mortar (cement mortar may crack). During work, you must constantly use a plumb line and level so that the site is in an absolutely flat horizontal plane.
If it is possible to make fire-resistant walls around the stove, then it is better to take the combustion hole outside so that it can be heated from the street. This will reduce energy costs (no need to constantly open and close the greenhouse doors) and will avoid smoke inside the room.
To reduce the cost of construction, you can make a simple potbelly stove with your own hands. To do this, choose the simplest shape - rectangular. To heat a winter greenhouse measuring 15 m2, it is enough to make a stove measuring 50/30/40 cm (l/w/h).

First, they make a drawing of the future stove and transfer it to a heat-resistant sheet metal. The elements are cut out with a grinder. First of all, the bottom of the firebox and 3 walls are welded. Having retreated 10 cm from the bottom, weld metal corners, the grille will be placed on them (you need to buy it in advance at the store or make it yourself). Cell size 2-3 cm2. In the future, the fuel will be placed on the grate and during combustion the ash will fall down, where it is convenient to clean it out.
Traditionally, the chimney is made from above, so before welding the lid, a 12-15 cm hole is made in it. But if the ground is supposed to be heated, then the chimney is placed on the side or below.
On the front wall of the future stove, make 2 holes with doors (the doors can be bought ready-made or made from a sheet of metal and attached to heat-resistant hinges). Fuel is loaded through one, and ash is cleaned through the second.
A small piece of pipe is welded to the hole on top. In the future, the chimney will be attached to it.
The stove for heating a winter greenhouse can be lined with brick, which will reduce the risk of fire and also increase the period of heat transfer. Which is especially true for winter nights. If this is not done, supports are welded to the structure.
If the greenhouse is small, then, as a rule, they make one chimney pipe that runs through the entire greenhouse and goes outside under the ridge. If you need to heat a large room and heat it from below, then the chimney is assembled from pipes of equal diameter using welding or special coupling adapters. Welding allows for absolute tightness. And when using couplings, clay is applied to all joints underneath them. The chimney is connected to the stove using any of these two methods.

Tip: when using a stove in a winter greenhouse, you need to properly lay out the chimney pipe system. For them, trenches of 30-40 cm are dug in the beds, in increments of 50-100 cm. Non-woven material is laid down, then pipes are placed and covered with expanded clay. A fertile layer is poured on top.

When heating air, supports are made for the chimney so that it rises smoothly and at the outlet is higher than the level of the stove. This will ensure even heating and traction at the same time.

A chimney is welded to the end of the chimney, through which the smoke will escape from the greenhouse to the street. The pipe is wrapped with foil insulating material so that it does not heat the roof elements. The end of the pipe is protected with a spark arrester.
Stove heating dries out the air greatly. This is bad for plants in a greenhouse. Therefore, a metal container for water is often placed next to the stove. It will provide irrigation with warm water and, by evaporating, increase air humidity.

If the question arises of how to build a greenhouse for winter growing, then you need to start from the average temperature. If any of the above methods are suitable for the southern regions, then for the middle zone and northern regions you will need to install a gas or electric system.

What does high-quality heating give us for a stationary greenhouse? Possibility to grow crops all year round. It is for these purposes that many people arrange to heat greenhouses with their own hands from any materials - polycarbonate, glass, even film. In order to constantly maintain and maintain a favorable microclimate for plant growth inside. The question “How to do it yourself, and what to consider?” remains relevant for many, so let’s consider it in more detail.

Real and unrealistic methods of heating greenhouses

We want to figure out how to make greenhouse heating with our own hands from available materials, and even in an economical way?

Therefore, we will consider real, and not fantastic and too expensive options that can be found on an industrial scale.

Electric heating is a thing of the past. This method exists, and it even works very productively, but we can easily buy expensive potatoes, as well as tomatoes and cucumbers at the market all year long - it will be cheaper.
Gas is also not our option. Putting a gas pipeline in place or storing cylinders on site is expensive, inconvenient, and even dangerous. In addition, you will not be able to work with gas without specialists; you will simply be fined. It turns out that this is no longer heating greenhouses with your own hands, but with the involvement of professionals, where your destiny is to “bring and serve.”
with a hog - this is normal stove heating with a horizontal chimney. Very practical, accessible to all “Homemade” people, inexpensive. But “angry”, although cheap. It is necessary to place the stove inside the greenhouse itself or in the vestibule, lay horizontal chimney pipes under the shelves, and ensure normal exhaust and draft. The downside is the long length of the homemade chimney, the obligatory fistulas in the connections and the penetration of a small amount of carbon monoxide into the greenhouses.
Do-it-yourself water heating in a greenhouse is a process of serious improvement of the stove option. It takes longer and costs a little more, but has a reasonable argument: high efficiency, safety and low fuel costs. Especially if you install a pellet or pyrolysis stove.

Retreat-advice!

Why is it worth paying attention to the latter option, especially with pyrolysis ovens? The stove, as already said, has high efficiency, but the main advantage, which is very important for modern summer residents, is the time between laying firewood. Or not wood, but any other type of fuel, it doesn’t matter.

It is possible to install a boiler as a heating unit on liquid fuel. It will also add advantages to your system autonomous heating greenhouses: it has automation of the combustion process itself, as well as a fairly long period of fuel loading (refueling).

Do not forget about the “old-fashioned” methods of warming the soil, and additionally use natural products. For example, horse manure is an excellent way to warm the soil even without heating systems.

After being applied to the fertile layer, horse manure will heat the soil in your greenhouse to +60 within a week, and then will maintain this temperature for at least another three months, and in general – up to 150 days! Isn't it better to buy horse manure from a neighbor in the country rather than install a soil heating system under the shelving? In this case, heating the air will suffice.

Practice: making heating in a greenhouse

Initial data

Let's take it as "Given" polycarbonate greenhouse, and we will create heating with our own hands in the greenhouse from scratch. (See) Let the area be 25 m2, then it will be easy to start with calculations and technology for your own volume. And we’ll immediately take into account the possibility of subsequent expansion of your greenhouse: you never know, you’ll like it and you’ll design another place for watermelons. Under the melon, that is.

Let's not stir up the manure, and we will assume that you did not purchase it. Well, nowhere, in Moscow and the region, there are so many horses! Then yours heating system will consist of two circuits or parts:

Ambient air heating system.
Ground (soil) heating system.

Rationale

It is clear for what purposes soil heating is needed. There are roots in the soil, and the environment for them also needs to be heated. And soil is a much better conductor of heat than air. Accordingly, the cold.

If the optimal regime is not maintained, the plants will seriously slow down their growth or simply die, and you will not have a single tomato in the winter.

Warming up the soil is similar to a heated floor system in a house, but is slightly different:

A pipe through which water flows or passes hot air, laid in drainage or not. To install drainage, it is preferable to use small expanded clay as the main material, and cover it with geotextile on top (this special material, which allows water to pass in one direction, is sold in abundance in specialized stores). The covering is necessary so that the soil (soil) does not penetrate into the drainage.
Instead of concrete base in such a “warm floor system” there is loose soil, which is also constantly moistened.

Variations on an aerial theme

We have decided on heating the soil, now we need to choose a method of heating the air, that is, in fact, a heating option. Let's focus on two:

Classic option: do-it-yourself heating of greenhouses with registers around the entire perimeter, completely welded from fairly thick-walled pipes large diameter. The problem is in the material itself, which has seriously risen in price recently, and the problem is in a normal welder who will weld all the seams beautifully (in the sense of hermetically sealed and for a long time). It will work out anyway – not with your own hands.

When choosing this option, take into account the biggest disadvantage - the huge working volume of the coolant, and also the relatively small area where the heat exchange process occurs. In this case, the efficiency of your boiler is greatly reduced.

Batteries around the perimeter – there is less water in the system, and all the advantages associated with this point. Including, there is no need to call a welder. The heat exchange area is large, the output is maximum. The efficiency is higher. You can install a variety of batteries, especially those that you removed from the house yesterday when you were doing new system heating. It won't cost much at all!

In general, it doesn’t matter which batteries are installed, because they will all have approximately the same efficiency. When installing, keep in mind that the maximum coolant pressure will be no more than 1.5 bar, while almost any battery is designed to withstand a pressure of 5-6 bar. You don't have to worry too much about the strength of the connections. At least there is no need to paint the carvings.

Pipe question

Much attention must be paid to the piping system so as not to spend more than is required for the normal functioning of the equipment. If you are installing radiators, there is no point in running expensive metal pipes from the boiler to the radiators; you can get by with unstacked polypropylene.

Firstly, it's cheaper.
Secondly, polypropylene pipes do not corrode.
Plastic withstands “defrosting the system” well when we “missed” and created emergency situation. The ice that forms in the pipes during “defrosting” will not tear the polypropylene, while the metal will fail not only in the joints, but also in the seams, if the pipes are seamed. If they are seamless, so much the worse: the gap will be in the most unexpected place.
Polypropylene is an excellent heat insulator, so the coolant will not lose temperature as it approaches the radiator.

Bottom wiring is preferable, especially during installation - the issue of convenience of attaching pipes is resolved. Especially if the radiators are not mounted on flimsy polycarbonate walls, but are installed directly on the foundation with bottom mounting.

At the entrance to the radiators, it is advisable to equip the pipes with ball valves or thermal valves in order to regulate the temperature in different parts of your huge greenhouse for specific plants.

Boiler and chimney

With heating, this means not only hanging radiators and laying pipes, but also installing a boiler with a chimney.

The heating boiler can be placed either inside the greenhouse itself or placed in the heated room itself, which will further increase the efficiency of the entire system. The heat transfer from the boiler to the surrounding space will be unambiguous, so the air temperature in the greenhouse will increase.

But in the first option, you don’t have to go inside the greenhouse at all while loading the boiler with fuel. The second option not only improves productivity and efficiency, but also seriously saves space.

Laying out a brick oven is not an option, because for a greenhouse it will be too bulky and labor-intensive, unless you have a greenhouse of regional significance. Ready heating boilers They are not that expensive, but they are compact, productive and easy to use. The boiler issue is closed.

Now the chimney: this is perhaps the most important part of the entire heating system. It’s probably worth putting the chimney on a light foundation, installing a supporting channel or pipe and attaching the main structure to it. This is for black pipes, that is, for ordinary material under the chimney.

We shallowed out the horizontal version of the chimney. Therefore, we do not expect high efficiency from the smoke removal system in terms of air heating. We make the chimney as short as possible and reliable in terms of sealing, so that combustion products do not get inside the greenhouse. It is best to buy a sandwich chimney and place it vertically directly from the boiler - then there will be no need for a foundation.

Install the structure not higher than 7.5 meters, but not lower than 6 meters- this is the optimal height for good traction. Both the boiler and the chimney can be mounted using a simple, classic heating scheme. And now connect the circuits to the boiler - according to your project.

Conclusion

Boiler long burning- this is the most good option, which yours wants. With such a system, you will not live near the loading door of the firebox, and the plants will grow in an optimal microclimate. The main thing that is needed for this is desire and a measured approach. Spontaneity is for lazy people and adventurers!

The early harvest is harvested from your greenhouse primarily due to its heating - after all, solar radiation for most plants is sufficient only in the summer months. But the maintenance of a winter garden or cultivation fresh vegetables and exotic fruits in severe frosts is impossible without specially equipped heating in the greenhouse, because the minimum temperature that can be in a greenhouse is +18°C. And warm, impenetrable walls alone are not enough here. Most budget option heating the greenhouse - if a heating main runs under the dacha plot. Then all that remains is to find the right place, and the problem of how to make heating in a greenhouse is solved. In all other cases, heating greenhouses will be more difficult, but it is quite possible to do it yourself - the diagrams and tips in this article will be extremely useful for this.

Option #1 – solar batteries

It is possible to heat the greenhouse using solar heat accumulators. First, they dig a 15 cm hole in the greenhouse and cover the ground with a layer of thermal insulation, possibly polystyrene. A layer of plastic film is placed on top for waterproofing.

Then coarse wet sand is placed on top and the whole thing is covered with excavated soil. This simple device allows, using the accumulated energy of the sun, to maintain a satisfactory temperature in the greenhouse even at a temperature of -10°C.

Option #2 - air heating

The easiest way to heat a greenhouse or greenhouse is to equip a primitive air heating:

Step 1. Take a segment steel pipe with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a length of about 2-2.5 m.
Step 2. One end of such a pipe must be inserted into a film greenhouse or greenhouse, and a fire must be lit under the other.
Step 3. The fire now needs to be constantly maintained. The air will quickly heat up in the pipe, pass into the greenhouse and give off heat to the plants being grown.

This method of heating is really easy, but somewhat inconvenient due to the fact that the fire must be maintained constantly.

Option #3 – heating with gas

The main advantage of gas is that it is more stable in terms of supply, but the final cost of products from the greenhouse can surprise. Therefore, if heating a greenhouse with gas in winter lasts only a few weeks, then it is not necessary to pull it from a residential building and purchase expensive pipes for this. It will be enough to take a couple of cylinders for this purpose - they will last for a long time.

It is only important to remember that excess carbon dioxide can negatively affect the condition of plants, and therefore such a greenhouse must be well ventilated. And to remove combustion waste, it is necessary to use an exhaust device to ensure a constant flow of oxygen into the greenhouse. And so that the lack of oxygen does not lead to the cessation of the combustion process and the release of gas into the air, it is advisable to use heating devices with automatic protective device– the sensors will immediately trigger as soon as the gas supply to the burner stops.

Option #4 – stove heating

Unlike electric heating, classic stove heating is not so financially burdensome. So, you can build a simple greenhouse stove with a hog or a horizontal chimney with your own hands and without much expense. Its design principle is quite simple:

Step 1. A brick furnace firebox is laid out in the vestibule of the greenhouse.
Step 2. A chimney is laid along the entire length of the greenhouse, either under the beds or under the shelving.
Step 3. This is removed from the greenhouse chimney on the other hand, so that carbon monoxide escapes, and all the heat remains inside the building. As a result, the distance between the end wall of the greenhouse and the firebox itself should be at least 25 cm, but from the bed or rack with plants to the top of the hog - from 15 cm.

Or according to this scheme:

Step 1. You need to take a large barrel, with a capacity of about 3 cubic meters, and paint it inside in 2 layers so that it does not rust.
Step 2. Holes are made inside the barrel for the chimney, stove, expansion barrel on top and drain valve on the bottom.
Step 3. The stove is cooked and inserted into the barrel.
Step 4. A chimney is removed from the barrel, and a pipe 5 meters high is placed on the street.
Step 5. A homemade 20-liter expansion tank is installed on top of the barrel, which is pre-cooked from simple sheet iron.
Step 6. From profile pipe 40x20x1.5 is used for heating, and the pipes are laid out on the ground at a distance of 1.2 m. It is necessary to lay them out this way so that the soil near the roots of the plants warms up well.
Step 7. To circulate water in such a homemade heating system, purchase a special but inexpensive pump.

Such a stove can be heated with any kind of wood, and the drain valve at the bottom of the barrel can be used not only to drain water, but also to drip irrigation when the water itself has cooled. To control the temperature in such a greenhouse, you can install an electronic temperature sensor inside it, and the digital display itself can be installed right in the house.

Option #5 – water heating

Water heating for a greenhouse is one of the most profitable in financial terms. You can make an electric water heater with your own hands.

Method #1 – thermos from an old fire extinguisher

So, you will need the body of an old, no longer needed fire extinguisher, the top of which will be cut off. Work order:

Step 1. At the bottom of the case you need to install a thermal electric heater with a power of 1 kW, which can be taken from an electric samovar.
Step 2. To allow water to be poured into the electric heater, a removable lid is placed on top.
Step 3. You need to attach two water pipes, which are connected to the radiator. The pipes must be secured with rubber seals and nuts.

In order for the heater to be automated, it is better to use such a circuit - with a relay AC, like MKU-48 with a voltage of 220 V. As soon as the temperature sensor operates, it closes the contacts K1. The heater will begin to heat the water, and it will raise the temperature in the greenhouse. As soon as the water reaches the set level, the temperature sensor will immediately operate and the power circuit of relay K1 will be broken, and the water electric heater itself will turn off. If the MKU-48 relay cannot be found, you can use the second circuit, where the relay has contacts that do not pass a current of less than 5A.

Method #2 – heating element + old pipes

In this case, a small number of old pipes, a heating element and an electric welding machine will be used. Everything will be produced quickly and reliably.

So, in a convenient corner of the greenhouse you need to install a boiler with a volume of about 50 liters and an electric heater of 2 kilowatts. When heated, the water will rise into the expansion tank along the riser and will be supplied to the heating system located around the entire perimeter. The system itself should have a slight downward slope of the pipes.

Step 1. The boiler will need to be made from a piece of large diameter pipe, to which the bottom with a flange will be welded.

Step 2. The heating elements must be connected with an electrical cord to a plug and securely insulated.

Step 3. All joints between the flange and the body must be well sealed with a rubber gasket.

Step 4. An expansion tank with a volume of up to 30 liters is made from pipe scraps. Couplings are welded at the bottom and at both ends to connect to the boiler riser and to the system.

Step 5. A cap is cut out in the tank itself for adding water, because its level will need to be constantly monitored.

Step 6. From metal pipes, at the ends of which it is necessary to make a thread in advance for convenient connection, a pipeline is made.

Step 7. Now the boiler body must be grounded with a flexible three-core copper wire, which is designed for a voltage of 500 V and without insulation. Both wires need to be attached to the phases of the heating element, and the third wire to the boiler body. By the way, during cold weather it will be possible to use special screens made of foil or other heat-reflecting material.

The main thing is that during any installation of a heating system for a greenhouse or greenhouse, follow all safety rules and strictly follow the instructions.

Method #3 - installing a solid fuel boiler

The boiler itself can be located either in the greenhouse or in a separate room. The advantage of the second option is that you can put firewood or fuel into the boiler without going into the greenhouse, and now it will not take up valuable space, like the fuel itself. The downside is that the boiler also produces a little heat energy, which would not be unnecessary for the greenhouse.

You need to add fuel to the heat generator 2 times a day - that’s all. And such a boiler is absolutely fireproof, and therefore can be safely left overnight without any control. In addition, fuel consumption is quite low.

In winter? Now there are many ways to do it in a greenhouse heating with your own hands. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so to choose the ideal option for greenhouse heating with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the following selection criteria:

greenhouse size;
financial capabilities;
climatic features of the region;
heating needs of different greenhouse plants.

Heated winter greenhouse - projects, photos:

Solar

This is the most natural heating method. In order for the sun to better heat the greenhouse, you need to place it in the sunniest place and choose a suitable covering material. The ideal coating is considered glass.

The sun's rays pass through the coating, heating the earth and air. The heat is transferred back much less due to the density of the structure and covering material. The greenhouse is best heated in the form hemispheres or arches.

Advantages:

efficiency;
environmental friendliness.

Flaws:

in winter, this method can only be used in the southern regions;
At night, the temperature can drop sharply, causing the death of plants.

Electric

How to heat a greenhouse in winter? The next way to heat a greenhouse in winter is electric. For a small and hermetically sealed structure this would be an ideal option.

Eat different ways electric heating greenhouses in winter:

convection systems;
water heating;
air heaters;
cable heating;
heat pump.

Heaters for greenhouses have different mechanism of action.

The common advantage of such structures is that they respond to temperature changes and automatically create ideal microclimate. When properly placed, electric heaters will heat the greenhouse evenly, which will significantly improve plant growth.

Advantages:

efficiency;
mobility (most of these devices can be adjusted to the parameters of any greenhouse);
ventilation.

Flaws:

if there are not enough heaters, the air will warm up unevenly;
The possibilities for warming up the soil are very limited.

Air

System air heating installed during the construction of the greenhouse. Its installation is very complicated, so this matter must be handled by a specialist.

How to do heating in a greenhouse? Special heating and ventilation devices are installed at the base of the foundation and in the frame of the building, which distribute warm air at the top of the greenhouse. Thanks to this, hot air does not reach the plants themselves and does not burn the tender leaves of the seedlings.

To heat the soil, you can install around the perimeter of the greenhouse perforated heating hose.

Winter greenhouses with heating - photo:

Warm floor system

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Almost every summer cottage There is a greenhouse in the private sector garden and garden. They are used mainly in the spring and summer for growing seedlings and summer heat-loving vegetables. And sooner or later, every greenhouse owner begins to think about its profitability. You can increase its efficiency only when you use it all year round, or when growing very early products, when everything is very expensive on the market and in the store. Now it has become fashionable to create winter gardens and grow greens, radishes, cucumbers in the cold season. New Year and flowers on March 8th. Of course, it’s great to have fresh produce from your greenhouse for the holidays in winter, but for this you need to make it heated, because our winters are long and harsh.

- means increasing its efficiency

But for early or year-round use of the greenhouse, heating is needed, because there is severe frost outside in winter, and sub-zero air temperatures are not uncommon. And then the question arises of which heating to choose, which is personally acceptable for your household, because any of them requires a financial investment. Here you need to figure out what you have enough money for and which heating will be less expensive to maintain. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the durability and efficiency of the selected type of heating.

Heating a greenhouse is the most important part of the microclimate in the life of plants, as is watering. It is advisable to think about what it will be like before construction begins. It’s better to do it right away, as it should be, so as not to have to redo it later. Let's consider different heating methods, the pros and cons of the selected options and choose what is most convenient and least expensive.

How to heat a greenhouse in early spring?

It is not necessary to use any heating to grow seedlings and early summer produce. To do this, it is enough to make greenhouse beds on rotted manure. It is necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil; instead of beds, you will get trenches. It is advisable to make the sides for future ones from boards or other available materials. Place a thick layer of rotted manure mixed with straw or peat on the bottom. Pour a fertile layer of soil on top. The manure rotting below will release heat and moisture. Plants planted on high, warm ridges will feel comfortable.

When it’s still cold outside, you can put a second layer of film over the greenhouse. An air pocket is formed between the main layer and the additional layer, which will also retain heat. The greenhouse should be positioned so that it is exposed to the sun as long as possible. sun rays will penetrate through the film or cellular polycarbonate and heat the surface of the earth in the greenhouse. Thus, natural heat will condense in it. This is how you can “naturally” heat a greenhouse, just don’t make the roof too high, then it will warm up more. Experience has shown that greenhouses with an arched structure have the highest efficiency in terms of heat retention.

But there are some disadvantages. If you don’t have your own manure, you will have to buy it, and this is now quite expensive. In addition, it must be stocked in the fall. And make the ridges anew every spring. This is a very labor-intensive process. Making heated greenhouses with your own hands is not easy. And in winter such “heating” will not be enough.

Stove heating

How to heat a greenhouse without gas and electricity? One of these methods is to make an ordinary stove and run a chimney from it horizontally along the walls of the greenhouse. It should gradually rise up and finally come out. This way the greenhouse will be heated. The firebox must be made so that it opens outside the greenhouse, because soot and smoke cannot penetrate into it. Then the quality of vegetables will suffer.

You can install a stove with a boiler in which water will be heated, and then it will circulate through pipes that will be laid on the ground along the length of the greenhouse. Hot water will heat the air.

While the efficiency of such systems can satisfy the user, the complexity of the process is very tiring. The point is that you need to constantly monitor the temperature and add solid fuel frequently. Not everyone can quit their job and be a fireman in their greenhouse all winter. And is it worth it?

When building heated greenhouses with your own hands, you should keep in mind that film and glass do not retain heat well, and therefore they need to be heated better. Cellular polycarbonate, due to its design, retains heat well, and therefore heating costs will be lower.

Heating with heat generator boilers - also nice view. Unlike simple stoves, a heat generator solid fuel You need to charge no more than 2 times a day. Diesel fuel systems are available. The efficiency of such heating is not the highest.

Gas heating

Gardeners are interested in how to make a heated greenhouse using gas. If it is small, then you can use bottled gas. If the greenhouse is of an industrial scale, then you need to take a permit and use a natural one. Use conventional and infrared burners. A conventional water heating system based on AGV is also used. Gas, of course, is profitable because it is cheaper than electricity.

When using such heating with burners, it is necessary to provide ventilation, and this already reduces the heating efficiency. If you make water heating based on heating water with gas, then the system can be fully automated. Without constant human control, the microclimate in the greenhouse will be maintained. The main thing is that it is profitable from a financial point of view, and the costs can soon be recouped.

Heating by heating air

How to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse by heating air? This heating can operate on liquid fuel or electricity. Most often used in large greenhouses. The unit heats the air, which is directly blown out in the center of the greenhouse and circulates through polyethylene perforated hoses laid out along the length of the building. Thus, the air inside is heated.

Convectors will also work

You can heat the greenhouse with electric convectors. They are installed on the walls of the structure and on the floor. Convectors heat the air well, they have timers that can be set to a certain temperature, and they will turn on and off themselves. One drawback is that they are quite energy-consuming, and electricity is now expensive.

Hot air heating

There are many other ways to heat a greenhouse in winter. Some heat with portable heat guns (fans) or air heaters. These devices actively blow out hot air, quickly heating the room. The main thing is to arrange them so that they do not dry out or burn the plants. It's good if they are equipped with thermostats. Then you don’t need to constantly monitor them, just set the desired temperature that they will maintain.

Warm floors in a greenhouse

A do-it-yourself heated polycarbonate greenhouse can be made with complex heating. After all, it is necessary to heat not only the air, but also the soil in which the plants grow. To do this, some use the “warm floors” design. A sand cushion is laid, a protective mesh is placed on it, then a heating element or cable, then a protective mesh again and a sand cushion on top. Then the soil is poured in a layer of up to 20 cm. It is necessary to install a thermostat so that the soil does not warm up more than 45 degrees, otherwise the roots of the plants may be damaged. This method electric heating very economical, with high efficiency. The sun warms the greenhouse from above, and the cellular polycarbonate retains the heat. The soil below is also heated, and the heat from it rises.

The most efficient heating method

There is another way to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter. These are infrared electric lamps and heaters. These devices are good because they do not dry out the air and act like solar energy. As is known, the sun's rays, upon reaching the surface of the Earth, heat objects and are reflected by heat. Lamps and heaters with infrared radiation also work. If they are placed along the entire length of the greenhouse, under the ceiling, then they will heat the soil, plants, walls, and, being reflected, the heat will accumulate in the room. They are absolutely harmless, with very high efficiency. Because they provide a lot of heat, but the energy consumption is small. Such heating can be very easily adjusted to create the desired microclimate in the greenhouse.

Perhaps, today this is the safest and most profitable method of heating a greenhouse in winter.

It is important not only to heat the greenhouse, but also to save heat

In order to be profitable, you need not only to heat the greenhouse well, but also to use all possible means to retain this heat as best as possible.

To do this, it is good to apply all knowledge in a complex. A well-chosen place to build a greenhouse, no shade, all day under sunlight. The greenhouse should be located so that the wind does not blow away the heat. Good, warm foundation. The greenhouse covering is better made of cellular polycarbonate. There should be no gaps in the structure: in the cold winter, any draft is destructive.

You can use warm, high beds with manure, which will also accumulate heat. You can grow seedlings on shelves. It is good to combine heating of the greenhouse: increasing the temperature of the air and soil. By the way, you can use waterproof mats to create the effect of warm floors. They are convenient to use in greenhouses with shelving, placing heating mats underneath them. Heat always rises from below, warming the trays with plants and the air.

Should you make the heating yourself or order a ready-made one?

You don’t have to invent a bicycle at all, but when ordering a greenhouse, immediately buy a heating system and fully maintain the microclimate. Specialists will deliver the structure and install it in the shortest possible time. They will equip it with all the necessary options, which is called “turnkey”, and will also give a guarantee.

Everything, of course, depends on your financial capabilities and desires. Every year, new products appear on the market that will help make the greenhouse pay for itself all year round. What kind of heating you want depends, of course, on how you want to use it: to grow something all year round or in the early spring and summer.